Words by Sophia Markoulakis
Having grown up in Sacramento, it’s no surprise that I never met a pool I didn’t want to plunge into, feet first. But as I’ve gotten older, I’ve become allergic to pool water below 85 degrees. Seeking warm water to soothe my joints, I recently headed to Napa Valley’s Calistoga for hydrotherapy and relaxation. Often referred to as the “end of the road,” it’s the last Napa County city as you travel north on Highway 29.
While California’s first millionaire Sam Brannan put Calistoga on the map in the 1860s, prior settlers and indigenous people had long benefited from its geysers and underground springs. In 1905, a historic electric train carried affluent San Franciscans to Calistoga where they could soak in pools at properties like the Mountain View Hotel and Indian Springs Resort. Today, the electric train has been replaced by electric vehicles that transport people like me who are eager to enjoy both the area’s spas and its wine industry.
I checked into the Calistoga Springs Resort and immediately sensed that I had found a local gem, where hotel guests and locals alike make themselves at home at the property’s outdoor pool area. My spacious room with a sitting area and kitchenette had a separate bedroom and large bath. As soon as I unpacked, I donned my robe and headed out the door to explore the first of four pools. The largest and coolest of the bunch was a tepid 85 degrees, perfect for some laps. The other two pools were heated to temperatures between 90 and 100 degrees. The giant whirlpool, situated under a massive gazebo, registered a toasty 104. After a couple of hours submerged in various pools, I felt relaxed yet refreshed.
The hotel’s no-frills charm is a bonus for families and large groups. Outdoor barbecues and plenty of patio furniture provide the perfect setup for dining and socializing on-premises. People were friendly, and the large fire pit situated between the pools kept me and my fellow guests cozy late into the evening.
Tectonic activity is common in this part of Northern California as the earth lets off a little steam. A small jolt in the middle of the night woke me up, a reminder that the therapeutic waters I was enjoying wouldn’t be accessible without contractions between rock and steam, linked to past volcanic activity and a fault zone.
Most say that Calistoga wouldn’t be what it is today without Brannan commercializing the area’s most prized natural resource—mineral-rich water originating 4,000 feet below the earth’s surface near one of the world’s largest geothermal fields. Indian Springs Resort, which Brannan founded in 1862, has four geysers on its 17 acres. There’s a large one that releases steam behind the Olympic-size pool, and watching it mesmerized me while I floated the next morning away.
I fueled up on poke at the poolside grill and bar, The Chaise Lounge, and maintained my elevated internal temperature by sitting next to the large fire. With a full belly and an Aperol spritz, I was back in the pool until late in the day.
The resort’s spa utilizes water from the geysers and volcanic ash mined on-site in many of its treatments. I was intrigued by the Himalayan Salt Therapy Room, which is purported to help with respiratory conditions, and the Binaural Beats Therapy that delivers synchronized sound therapy and is said to aid sleep and harmony. Anyone booked for a treatment can experience the Buddha Pond, a refuge with palm trees and greenery surrounding the geyser-fed pond.
Other hotels that tap into local geysers include Dr. Wilkinson’s Backyard Resort and Mineral Springs, Calistoga Motor Lodge and Spa and Roman Spa Hot Springs Resort. Each property has its own retro vibe and exemplifies the laid-back Calistoga mineral pool experience.
Dine & Drink Downtown
Several decades of architecture are on view within six blocks of downtown along and around Lincoln Avenue. From the post-Gold Rush era Mission-style buildings to ornate Victorian structures and stately Neo-Classical commercial buildings, walking around offered me a lesson in California history.
Housed in many of these historic buildings are restaurants, wine tasting rooms and breweries. Dining and drinking options include Evangeline, Bricco Osteria and Calistoga Brewery. Sam’s Social Club, part of Indian Springs Resort, has a lively outdoor scene and an eclectic menu. Head to the Four Seasons Resort and Residences Napa Valley for amazing views of the surrounding vineyards. Top Chef alum and rising star Rogelio Garcia helms the property’s Michelin-star restaurant, Auro. If you can’t snag a reservation there, you’ll still be well fed at the property’s all-day restaurant, Truss. Pop into Calistoga Roastery or Sam’s General Store for morning coffee and a pastry.
I couldn’t leave without tasting some legendary Napa Valley wine and there are several in-town tasting rooms, each with its own flair. Maria Concetto Winery is known for RobinoVino, the robotic sommelier that assists with your tasting experiences. But the wine doesn’t need gimmicks. Owner Maria Reznikova is sourcing impeccable grapes and employs veteran winemakers like Patrick Saboe to craft delicious pinots and sparklings.
For an old-world experience, Romeo Vineyards’ tasting room is located at one of Calistoga’s oldest buildings—an 1880s-era carriage house. Tastings take place outdoors surrounded by greenery and roses. Other noteworthy tasting rooms include Picayune Vineyards, Calistoga Depot and Tank Garage Winery. Whether sipping or splashing, you’re sure to leave Calistoga feeling renewed.
Wine Country Winter The Christmas season is a special time in Calistoga. The downtown district gets into the spirit with its annual Lighted Tractor Parade the first weekend of December, plus a Christmas Faire and post-parade celebration in Pioneer Park. If you can’t make it out for the parade, celebrate the season with wine. Visit Calistoga hosts Winter in the Wineries Passport every year from early December through the first week of February. For $75, it covers free tastings at over two dozen Calistoga-area wineries and offers discounts at resorts and retailers.