Words by Johanna Harlow
The private Summit Tasting at Alta Colina Vineyard is about as far as you can get from an opulent room where sommeliers soliloquize over the latest lofty vintages. When I reach this hidden gem in rural Paso Robles, I hop in a truck with Maggie Tillman (and Honey, a German shepherd) for a tour of her family’s winery, learning about vine-training methods and crop killers like the dreaded leafhopper as we rumble along dirt backroads. When we reach the heart of the 130-acre property, we drink the fruits of all this labor on a deck under the shade of an old oak. Not another soul around. Just us and rows of grenache and Syrah, rolling over the surrounding hills in undulating waves of green.
Better watch your throne, Napa. More and more wineries are putting down roots in Paso Robles, which has flourished from fewer than 20 to over 200 in the past several decades. And for good reason. Pairing diverse soil types and topography with the microclimates that result from the region’s hilly terrain, this area is great for grapes. Sixty varietals of grapes, as a matter of fact. Paired with small-town charm and ample activities, this destination is a sweet respite from traffic and overpriced tastings.
Cabernet Kingdom
In Paso, cab is king. Best known for its cabernet sauvignon and Bordeaux-style blends, the region is also home to historic zinfandel vines. The seemingly endless number of wineries range from widely-recognized names like J. Lohr and DAOU to mom-and-pop gems—some in a warren of warehouses known as Tin City. You’ll also find one-of-a-kind outings like the Bocce & Bottles experience at Booker Wines or Land Rover tours at Halter Ranch’s Estate (which also claims the world’s only fly-in vineyard).
Sculpterra Winery and Sculpture Garden is a must. After your tasting, wander the grounds to admire the craftsmanship of the property’s resident artists, ranging from a baroque awning by blacksmith Robert Bentley to the ethereal and gravity-defying sculptures of Dale Evers. You’ll also want to gaze a while at the wild and sinewy creatures by bronze worker John Jagger, which are so alive with movement you almost expect them to pounce.
My favorite glass of wine comes from a blink-and-you’ll-miss-it tasting room. You’ll find Hoyt Family Vineyards’ storefront tucked between a western-wear boutique and an art gallery on the edge of downtown. For only 20 bucks a tasting, you’ll sip floral viognier (a Sunset International Wine Competition gold winner) and fruit-forward petit verdot (a double gold winner at the San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition).
Meal Time
Paso won’t let you drink on an empty stomach. There are plenty of delectable dining offerings for helping pace the pinot. Take The Hatch, a brick-lined haunt with home-style meals and the hearty portions to prove it. The succulent rotisserie chicken, which the Michelin Guide commends as giving “an expensive steak a run for its money,” is best accompanied by a piping hot skillet of cornbread that’s soft on the inside with a caramelized crunch on the outside.
For a magical meal in a space festooned in plants, check out The Alchemists’ Garden. Let their mixologists concoct the perfect cocktail to go with your chimichurri skirt steak and fries with fondue. And don’t leave without ordering the duck chalupas, each bite a satisfying combo of crunchy slaw, melt-in-your-mouth meat, decadent aioli and soft pita bread.
For a vacation within your vacation, escape to the tropics with Cane Tiki Room’s Spam musubi and chicken teriyaki bowls. Or visit Mexico with a meal at Fish Gaucho, where you’ll discover the town’s largest selection of tequila, affordable reposado and a killer slow-braised beef short rib in salsa verde over jalapeño mashed potatoes.
Afternoon Adventures
Seeking a midday indulgence? Consider Sweet Escapes, a bakery … with three escape rooms. Praised by aficionados for its strong storytelling and attention to detail, this place has no bad options. So take your pick: spooky maritime quest involving a crazed sea captain, eerie bakery-themed mystery or mischievous academia-themed heist to steal the school mascot. When you emerge victorious, reward yourself with an exceptional brioche roll or blackberry tartlet.
If you want the dessert without the drama, order a sweet scoop of “crazy cookie,” strawberry-basil or peanut butter-chip ice cream made of sheep’s milk at Negranti Creamery. Seeking other ways to cool off? Make a splash at Ravine Waterpark and snake your way down slides with names like the Sidewinder and Anaconda.
Hotel Haven
Before heading out to your evening activities, check into your hotel. For an intimate venue on the edge of downtown, the Hotel Cheval’s 16 rooms are arranged around a central courtyard with European sensibilities. Your sweet tooth is well taken care of here, with a self-serve candy bar in the library and a s’mores butler who will toast marshmallows by the fire at your behest.
On the opposite extreme is the 20-acre Allegretto Vineyard Resort. Graced with grand Tuscan-style architecture, vineyards and even a bell tower, this venue has surged in popularity since its use as a filming location in season 6 of the TV drama This is Us. Take the hotel’s canary-yellow bikes for a spin, rent a cabana by the pool, visit the Spa Allegretto for a Swedish massage or visit the garden’s labyrinths and meditation stations for some spiritual solace. A guided art tour on Fridays and Saturdays will introduce you to the owner’s vast collection, many with ties to different faiths.
After Dark
For a so-called sleepy town, Paso Robles offers quite a lot to do when the sun goes down. Discover the pulse of its thriving music scene at intimate venues like The Pour House and California Coast Beer Company or take in a show surrounded by oaks at the Vina Robles Amphitheatre.
Brighten your world with Sensorio’s surreal light show, a futuristic LED oasis installed in the rural, rolling hills. A colossal field of glowing flowers will have you thinking you’ve tumbled into an after-dark version of Alice in Wonderland—an impression only furthered by a forest of glowing mushroom-like structures that pulse with unearthly music. Further along, wander through a small city of sculptures with geometric cutouts that cast a spiderweb of shadowy patterns across the ground.
Before you turn in, visit Downtown City Park where hundreds of lights have been strung from the boughs of its trees. As you stroll, the evening breeze sends the bulbs swaying like stars at sea. Pleasant dreams, Paso Robles.