The Beat on Your Eats: Ramen

Noodle-slurping goodness.

ramen izakaya yugen

Mountain View

Yugen’s authentic, slow-cooked tonkatsu broth really delivers when you’re in the mood for a satisfying bowl of ramen. Before you slurp up the tasty noodles, whet your appetite with small plates like the delicate homemade gyoza, wasabi-marinated raw octopus, succulent braised pork belly stew or a five-spice roasted chicken leg served on a sizzling plate. When the weather’s warm, opt for the outdoor seating and soak in the scene on busy Castro Street. 165 Castro Street. Open daily.

hanabi ramen & curry

Burlingame

Tuck into an ample bowl of short rib or unagi ramen at this friendly hole-in-the-wall across the street from the Caltrain tracks. Hanabi specializes in ramen served in rich, milky-white chicken-based tori paitan broth that will fill your belly and soothe your soul. Start your meal with a side of takoyaki fried octopus, or savor a warm, umami-filled curry that can be served over rice or ramen. For the vegetarian, there’s a Beyond Meat curry and tofu-topped veggie Tan Tan ramen. 723 California Drive. Closed Mondays.

ramen kowa

Palo Alto

If you’re out for an evening stroll along California Avenue, let the glowing paper lanterns of Ramen Kowa lure you inside to a piping hot bowl of broth and noodles. Seeking recommendations? Among its popular items are spicy tonkatsu ramen with minced pork, tender bamboo shoots and a spicy miso base or the traditional shio ramen with pork chashu, half an egg and a comforting chicken broth. This place is also known for curry with katsu or karaage. As for the atmosphere, expect a sleek, casual environment decorated with vertical wooden slats and crimson trim. 445 California Avenue. Open daily.

Dino’s Dream

Words by Johanna Harlow

A man of few words, Dino Tekdemir doesn’t make a big deal out of moving across the world to pursue restaurant work in the Bay Area. He’s matter-of-fact about leaving his family’s farm in the south of Turkey for an unknown place where he didn’t speak the language. “Starting from scratch, it can be challenging,” he says simply of his nine years spent squirreling away savings while working as a dishwasher, busser, server and finally manager in order to afford to open a restaurant of his own. “You learn everything from experience. You learn from the bottom.” He leaves it at that.

But it takes a special kind of tenacity to go from presiding over dirty dishes to a small restaurant empire. This Kurdish self-starter has been behind some of the Bay Area’s most beloved concepts—Anatolian Kitchen, Naschmarkt, Nemea Greek Taverna, Barbayani Greek Taverna and most recently, Portola Bistro—all in a 15-year span.

“I’m not tired!” Dino insists, sharing that he fully intends to create more eateries in the years to come. Where to next? “It all depends where the opportunity comes from,” he replies. “It all depends where Luck comes knocking on your door.”

To see where it all started, pay a visit to Anatolian Kitchen in Palo Alto. Dino’s firstborn might not have a minimalist-chic interior like Portola Bistro or the cool coastal class of Barbayani, but the space is made homey by reclaimed wood and rattan chairs. Enchanting and intimate, the restaurant’s crystal chandeliers glimmer in the low lighting. Table lamps warm the diners’ faces as they lean in for amiable conversation.

The dishes here are less flashy and more traditional, beloved staples ranging from kebabs to künefe, moussaka to muhammara. Dino notes that while Middle Eastern cuisine might be popular on the Peninsula these days, back in 2010, the food here really stood out. “There weren’t too many of those restaurants around,” he notes. Anatolian Kitchen moved from Birch Street to California Avenue in recent years, but it maintains its high standard. “We always keep the consistency. The service, the food, the quality and quantity are always the same,” Dino promises. “We never downgrade.”

Not sure what to order? The contrasting flavors of the appetizers elevate each other so it’s best to try more than just one. Accompany the cooling cacik (a dip of cucumbers, mint and yogurt) with muhammara (a dip of walnuts and bell pepper enhanced by pomegranate molasses). Perhaps add the earthy eggplant boosted by the zip of tomatoes and garlic. As for entrees, there’s a whole range of succulent kebabs, including exquisitely-seasoned kofta (made of ground beef and lamb) and adana chicken. If you saved room for dessert, consider the künefe—shredded filo dough and cheese sprinkled with pistachio and sweetened by honey—crispy on the outside and gooey on the inside.

“I know my vegetables. I know my food,” Dino declares, recalling the cows, chickens and sheep they raised as well as the produce they grew on his family’s farm. “Fresh, fresh, fresh!”

Beyond fantastic food, Dino insists on a “hands-on chef,” one who won’t hide in the kitchen. “He should go out and not be afraid to talk about his food,” Dino declares, stroking the salt and pepper stubble on his chin. “If guests have any questions, the chef’s right there, they can ask the chef.” He found this in the dedicated and driven chef Allen Isik, who has closely partnered with him to bring both Barbayani Greek Taverna and Portola Bistro to life. “He’s amazing—good vision and energy,” Dino says.

Dino has no shortage of drive himself. “If I have energy and time, I’ll do it,” he says. “I won’t say, ‘Oh, I’ll do it the next day. I’ll do it tomorrow.’” This applies not only to work but also to play. “My suitcase is always in the car, ready to go,” he says. “Sometimes I get in the car and go wherever the car takes me.” Most often, that’s to the beaches and pools of Carmel-by-the-Sea.

Despite the occasional get-away, Dino can typically be found on-site, welcoming his guests at the door. “My duty is in front and making sure everybody is good,” he says. “I want to see the same smile as they’re leaving.” He breaks into a grin himself. “They keep coming back.”

Craveable Kebabs – anatoliankitchen.com

First-Class Museum

Words by Johanna Harlow

Silent and still is something SFO Museum is not. At San Francisco International Airport, Terminal 2 is alive with the whir of rolling luggage and the constant murmur and flow of people. Some stop to appreciate a museum display, resting their arms on suitcase handles. Others hitch up their backpack straps and press on to the nearby bookstore or Air Canada lounge. One harried traveler rushes by in a whirlwind of wheels and heels in a desperate bid to make her plane.

“Over 52 million passengers from all over the world travel through annually,” says Nicole Mullen as she halts before San Francisco: City of the World, one of the museum’s many galleries scattered throughout the airport. “Our goal is to do shows that can delight and engage a vast public audience and can be accessible to a lot of people.” Nicole, the curator in charge of exhibitions, strikes a whimsical figure in a floral-print dress and librarian-chic glasses. She wears a lobster broach on her coat and an octopus bracelet clasped around her wrist.

SFO Museum got its start in 1980 as a way to humanize the airport and showcase the rich culture of the Bay Area, Nicole explains. Today, it’s grown to 25 locations throughout SFO with exhibits ranging from popular culture, design and history to technology, ethnography, folk art, natural history and beyond. It also includes photography galleries and the Aviation Museum and Library. “There’s always something new and compelling to work on,” she says.

No plane ticket? No problem. Your passport to learning doesn’t require a boarding pass. A handful of exhibits are located in publicly accessible pre-security areas, while the ones beyond a checkpoint can be accessed through prior arrangement with SFO Museum.

Eclectic Collections

Back at the San Francisco: City of the World exhibit, a couple of travelers pause to check out memorabilia from 1940s Chinatown nightclubs. Nearby, a mother pauses to rummage around in her bag while her little boy runs circles around the display cases in frog-print boots.

“I’m very proud of this show,” says Nicole, explaining that multiple local historical societies banded together to make it happen. Cases in a Golden Gate-red hold a wealth of items. A wool bathing suit from Sutro Baths, a thick section of steel strands from a cable car, an air vent grill from Alcatraz, a 1950s book titled Don’t Call it Frisco—each artifact a glimpse into this city’s big personality. Nicole points out some battered items salvaged from the 1906 earthquake. “That’s a teapot from the rubble,” she says. “Our photographer on staff, that was passed down from his grandmother.”

Besides other museums, Nicole collaborates with private collectors—and it’s one of her favorite parts of the job. Take Brian Coleman, an antiquarian from Seattle who lives in a colorful Queen Anne painted with sunflowers and griffins. “His whole house is bedecked floor to ceiling in the Victorian era. It’s quite spectacular,” Nicole marvels. Among his many loans to the museum: a pair of Victorian beaded slippers for Stepping Out: Shoes in World Cultures and an ornate nut bowl decorated with tiny silver squirrels for Eclectic Taste: Victorian Silver Plate.

For another exhibition, Metallica guitarist Kirk Hammet lent the museum his collection of classic monster memorabilia. His fiendish frenzy of monster magazines, mummy paint-by-numbers, Dracula lunch boxes, Frankenstein figurines and the prop head of the Creature from the Black Lagoon certainly made a splash in Terminal 2.

Occasionally, Nicole has to get creative to win over a more hesitant collector—on one memorable occasion doing so through his penchant for pastries. “I baked him pumpkin bread,” she smiles. “After that we were fast friends.”

The Curator Herself

As Nicole and I set off in the direction of Harvey Milk Terminal 1, she tells me how she ended up here. All around us, travelers pace by with pillows or headphones wrapped around their necks. A girl’s volleyball team, all in bouncy ponytails and leggings, move as one. And a coterie of Emirates flight attendants glide past in immaculate uniforms of crimson and cream.

“Museums are in my blood,” Nicole tells me. “It was something that I kind of lived and breathed.” In Plymouth, Massachusetts, Nicole’s mother worked as a site supervisor on the Mayflower II, a ship gifted to the United States by the English in the 1950s. At seven, little Nicole helped her out as a historic interpreter. “To spend more time with me, she took me to work with her on weekends,” Nicole explains. “I dressed in period attire as a 17th-century English immigrant.” Her role included talking about life aboard the Mayflower in 1620 and playing cat’s cradle with young visitors. By 14, she’d graduated to a paid position in visitor service.

Later, Nicole admits to rebelling against the business she’d known all her life. “When I went to college, I kind of wanted to get away from museums,” she confesses. It didn’t last.

After a year and a half in jobs she didn’t enjoy, Nicole accepted her fate. Museums were where she was meant to be. “I met so many interesting museum people from such an early age and have always been around them,” she explains. “Armed with an undergraduate degree in cultural anthropology, I applied for a job at the Phoebe A. Hearst Museum of Anthropology at UC Berkeley as the education specialist—and the rest is history!”

Nicole landed a position at SFO Museum 15 years ago—and more than 75 curated shows later, she’s going strong.

Past Favorites

One of Nicole’s favorite exhibitions, From Pineapple to Piña: A Philippine Textile Treasure, explored the weaving of pineapple leaf fibers into lacey handkerchiefs, blouses and even shawls in the late 18th and 19th centuries. “These fibers are knotted by hand,” Nicole says in wonderment.

After talking about a show that featured a flurry of leotards from the San Francisco Ballet, Nicole pivots to the time they partnered with the California Academy of Sciences on a natural history exhibit. That show required SFO Museum team to wheel in a number of jarred specimens. “That was pretty wild,” she laughs. “We had a 19th-century giant squid in ethanol, in this antique jar.” They transported it in a van designed to carry hazardous material.

Another tricky task involved bringing in a car for an Art Deco-themed show. “That had to come in at night,” Nicole recalls. “All the engine oil had to be drained. It had to be pushed from the curb … That was quite a feat!”

The Sky’s the Limit

At last, we arrive at our intended destination—Rosie the Riveter: Womanpower in Wartime. “Our program is evolving with the airport,” Nicole tells me. “When they redid Harvey Milk Terminal 1, we gained two new gallery spaces.” This show, orchestrated by Nicole’s fellow curator Daniel Calderon, is a tribute to grit and girl power during World War II. Its cases are stocked with heavy-duty coveralls, rivet guns and welding helmets, plus motivational posters proclaiming slogans like “Women: There’s work to be done and a war to be won” and “Do the job he left behind.” Spirited swing music spills from the speakers.

The walls and ceiling of this space have not been painted your typical “gallery white.” Instead, they’re pitch black. When we step inside, it feels like the gallery has swallowed us up—but in a good way. “People are intrigued by going into this dark gallery space,” describes Nicole of the immersive experience. “They can really step out of the airport for a minute.”

It’s to be expected from an exhibition located in the newly redeveloped terminal. This award-winning concourse is a testament to innovation, featuring rooms for yoga and meditation. It also has a soundproof Sensory Room for neurodivergent travelers with a soothing area stocked with squishy pillows and a mockup of an airplane cabin with two rows of seats for travelers to prepare for the experience of flying.

It goes to show that SFO Museum has evolved as the airport does. Nicole spotlights the (pre-security) Aviation Museum and Library, which opened along with the International Terminal in 2000. Its design replicates the airport’s original 1930s passenger lobby and currently features airline travel posters, Virgin America ephemera and century-old propellers.

Nicole mentions one more recent change. A few years back, the museum’s team of 35 gained a new site to work their behind-the-scenes magic. “We do it all here,” she says. “We have a state-of-the-art storage facility, a conservation lab, we have a wonderful design lab where our designer lays everything out. We have an in-house wood shop and a welding shop.” There’s even a room for mannequin assembly. It’s no wonder SFO Museum is the only airport-located museum accredited by the American Alliance of Museums.

Our tour ends in front of Everyday Elegance in Chinese Ceramics, one of the pre-security exhibit spaces. From one of the cases, a “guardian lion” statue watches steadfastly over TSA. “Whether it is a plastic toy telephone or Chinese jade from the Asian Art Museum, every object is treated as a precious object,” the curator says. “Our registration department handles everything with gloves.”

The guest experience is just as valuable. “We have the ability to reach people who maybe wouldn’t purchase a ticket and go see this particular museum exhibition,” Nicole reflects. “They happen to stumble upon it here and they’re fascinated by it, or something moves them or there’s a nostalgia factor that hits home … It’s very rewarding to reach that type of audience.” Nearby, a family of eight gives a young man a heartfelt sendoff, waving fervently as they stand beside a display of glazed pottery.

find your gate – sfomuseum.org

The Beat on Your Eats: Indian Restaurants

Words by Johanna Harlow

Curry over to these incredible Indian restaurants.

broadway masala

Redwood City

Living up to its name, Broadway Masala is a real showstopper. For the opening act, try the avocado bhel, a textured tower of spiced potato, tamarind-glazed puffed rice and fresh avocado that tumbles satisfyingly when you dig in with your fork. As for entrees, it’s hard to go wrong with the restaurant’s medley of flavors from the biriyani, an aromatic rice dish, to nalli nihari, tender lamb shank bathed in a rich and earthy sauce. It also offers some of the tenderest chicken you’re likely to encounter, so pick something with poultry. We recommend the succulent lahsooni chicken tikka, elegantly spiced and bursting with umami. Finish with a fusion cheesecake incorporating pockets of gulab jamun (fried dough) and a tart berry jam. 2397 Broadway. Open daily.

tilak indian and nepalese cuisine

Menlo Park

An unassuming gem tucked into downtown Menlo Park, Tilak is the real deal, offering guests large portions and demonstrating a true mastery of spices. (A word to the wise: if you ask for “medium,” expect to sweat a little bit.) If you can take the heat, order the bright red vindaloo, a delightfully complex curry with your choice of chicken or lamb. If you’re seeking something comfortingly familiar, you’ll appreciate the butter chicken in a classically creamy tomato-based sauce. Venture over to the Nepalese side of the menu for juicy momo dumplings. Enjoy an after-dinner stroll along Santa Cruz Avenue, where you can grab a coffee at Cafe Borrone and peruse the book selection at Kepler’s—or swing by Penzeys Spices to stock up on cumin, cloves and cardamom to cook up something tasty back home. 683 Santa Cruz Avenue. Open daily.

namaste indian cuisine

Palo Alto

Namaste Indian Cuisine prides itself on giving traditional dishes contemporary twists. According to the restaurant, “Each dish is a page in our book, each ingredient, a carefully chosen word, coming together to tell a story that’s both old and new.” Meat-eaters can choose from plenty of kebabs and curries to satisfy, but vegans aren’t treated as an afterthought here. Diners rave about the eggplant with roasted peanuts and curry leaves, and oyster mushrooms with spices, both cloaked in a rich coconut milk. Another meatless specialty is the gobi manchurian (crisped cauliflower with onion and bell pepper tossed in a spicy sauce). 447 California Avenue. Open daily.

Behind the Bars

Words by Johanna Harlow

“Let it melt a little bit,” urges Michael Sigmon, owner of Minée Chocolate, as I bite into a bar. Resisting the instinct to chew and swallow, I savor it. “See how that’s really smooth and it just finishes really clean?” the Menlo Park resident says of his original 75% bean-to-bar dark chocolate, a formula that took three years to perfect. “That’s because of the balance and how long I grind it … It doesn’t coat with hard tannin in the back of your throat like a normal dark chocolate would. You want that lush finish, but you want it to disappear.”

Before me, Michael has dealt out a set of chocolate bars. The illustrations on their packaging and colored foils remind me of trading cards, only tastier. He proffers a piece of Magick, his darkest bar at 80%. “I roasted a little darker to get the richness out of it, which is why it’s nuttier,” he explains. On we forge to the 60% dark Crescendo. “You get more of the vanilla in that.”

Despite using the same three organic ingredients in those three bars—cacao beans, cacao butter and vanilla-infused sugar—each one is completely distinct from the next. What unites them is that velvety mouthfeel. “I wanted to create this texture that would give you this super silky feeling,” he says, chalking it up to the lengthy stone-grinding process. “Some people do two to three days—but I feel like there’s this extra magic that occurs on the fifth day.” He compares it to making a satisfying stew. “There’s still a sense of the flavors meeting and mingling” at the beginning, he explains. “The ingredients, they’re still finding themselves.”

This choice of metaphors makes more sense given Michael’s culinary background. Not only was he a chef at Mendocino Café and Theo’s Restaurant in Soquel, but he co-owned the Windmill Café in Santa Cruz and served as a personal chef for professional athletes and politicians (but he’s not naming any names). The care and consideration he brings to all things culinary is evident. “If you’re gonna make something, you actually have to learn where it starts. Not even just its origins, but the people, the philosophy behind it,” Michael asserts. “Anybody can take a red snapper and wrap it in a banana leaf and say, ‘Hey, there’s a Chilean bass,’ right? But what’s the essence of the flavor behind it? And why would they do that? That’s what led me into chocolate making.”

Michael co-founded Minée Chocolate with Renée Fadiman who consults and acts as co-art director. Partners in life as well as business, their combined names comprise the company’s moniker. “Without Renée, it would just be meh,” Michael jokes. On a more serious note, “She’s the inspiration behind it … She’s the one who said, ‘Hey, keep going.’” And how’d these sweethearts meet? “We swiped right,” Michael says with a twinkle.

Michael makes his tantalizing treats in a space carefully converted to his specifications. “I’ve designed lots of kitchens,” he says. “So, it was really easy for me to stainless-steel a place out.” He buys his beans from an organic co-op in Ecuador. “Tropical fruit overtones were really what I was looking for,” he shares. “It needed to be aromatic and grounded.”

But before you even taste the chocolate, feast your eyes on Minée’s illustrated labels. The images are a combination of Michael’s two favorite art styles: art nouveau and anime. Michael says he’s been captivated with the former ever since seeing an exhibit on this turn-of-the-century style at the Legion of Honor Museum. “It won my heart in ways that I can’t even explain,” he reflects. “It’s timeless.” To him, anime is the contemporary equivalent. “I feel like that’s the modern version in its way. Art has to keep moving.”

The labels represent the women in his life. The milk chocolate bar is an homage to his mom Marsha, while the decaf coffee beans (another product he roasts and grinds) are dedicated to his grandmother Dot, the first person who introduced him to the beverage. “We’d sit on the porch in the mornings and just watch the world go by. I still remember that time with her as some of the best moments of my life,” Michael writes on the side of the bag. “We found a decaf that, when roasted dark, is full-bodied and robust. Just the way she liked it.” He pauses in recollection, a smile tugging at the corner of his mouth. “Anything you can do to have them with you for an extra minute when they’re gone—do it.”

Despite starting only a few years ago, Michael has already met with marked success, recently winning silver and bronze for two of his bars at TasteTV’s San Francisco International Chocolate Salon. Minée has also found its way onto the shelves of Sigona’s Farmers Markets in Palo Alto and Redwood City, the Willows Market in Menlo Park and Vino Locale in Palo Alto. Michael’s response to the accolades? He shrugs. “Cool. I’m gonna make some more chocolate now.”

A man of his word, Michael is releasing three new bars in 2025, including a “dark white chocolate” with maple and coconut sugar. “This one took me a little bit to figure out,” he admits.

Despite the successes, Michael wants to keep things grounded. “I’m not saying mine’s the best,” he insists. “If you ate a Snickers or Twix, and that was your bar when you were a kid … it’s gonna be the best chocolate you’ve ever had.” Who is he to compete with childhood nostalgia? But one thing’s for certain: it’s been a pretty sweet journey. “This is the life I choose,” Michael says. “And I choose it every day.”

Spill the Beans – teamminee.com

Perfect Shot: Into The Woods

Is there anything quite as poetic as the view from a coastal cliff? Photographer Jennifer Fraser shows us a beautifully brooding day at Fitzgerald Marine Reserve in Moss Beach. “Most of the visitors head for the tide pools to see anemones, starfish and the seals lazing on the nearby beach,” reflects Jennifer. “My favorite locale is the adjacent path up the cliffside, wandering among the cypress groves. The light in late afternoon is magical and a bit like a fairytale—Red Riding Hood might be around any corner.”

jenniferfraser.zenfolio.com

Calling all Shutterbugs: If you’ve captured a unique perspective of the Peninsula, we’d love to see your Perfect Shot. Email us at hello@punchmonthly.com to be considered for publication.

Big Basin Reawakened

Words by Lotus Abrams

Arriving at Big Basin Redwoods State Park recently with my family in tow—our first visit to the park since the 2020 CZU Lightning Complex Fire engulfed the Santa Cruz Mountains in flames—I have to admit that I wasn’t sure what to expect. In just 24 hours, the wildfire blazed through 97% of the oldest state park in California, destroying 85 miles of trails and 100 structures, including the iconic 1930s-era campfire center and the 1911 Old Lodge, plus a brand-new nature museum that was set to open in 2021.

We’re here to meet our guide for the day, Garret Hammack, a planner with California State Parks’ Santa Cruz District. As we begin our walk, I can’t help but reminisce about how different the park looked when my husband and I took our daughters here before the fire, on one of their first camping trips. Today the majestic redwoods, some of which are over 2,000 years old, are missing their glorious crowns, their bark blackened by the fire. The Douglas firs did not survive the flames, and neither did the campsites. But despite the destruction, I start to notice that something remarkable is happening at Big Basin: The forest ecosystem is once again full of life.

SIGNS OF RENEWAL

The grasses and ferns are flourishing on the sunlit forest floor and in the meadows. My daughter spots a banana slug. Garret shares that bobcats, foxes, deer and birds are finding their way back to the park, and new and unusual species of fungi are appearing. Most remarkably, bushy, green new growth is sprouting from the charred redwoods. “The vast majority of the old growth redwood trees survived because they can sprout directly from the trunk or any of the branches, even when they’re completely burned,” Garret tells us.

Cover Photo Courtesy of: Max Whittaker - Save the Redwoods League /  Photo Courtesy of: Friends of Santa Cruz County State Parks

Scientists have long known that redwoods are well-adapted to fire, but the mechanism of their survival wasn’t fully understood. Big Basin offered researchers from Northern Arizona University the chance to study their seemingly miraculous recovery. “What they found is that, over their lifetime, these trees store a portion of the carbon that they take from the atmosphere through photosynthesis as a kind of insurance policy, so when something like this happens, they can tap into those reserves to form new needles,” says Ben Blom, director of stewardship and restoration at nonprofit Save the Redwoods League, which helped to fund the study. Those banked reserves give redwoods an incredible advantage over other forest flora because they can regrow much more quickly, he adds.

Hiking the park’s trails provides a unique opportunity to witness the forest’s resiliency up close. Start at Big Basin’s primary day use parking lot to find the easy, accessible half-mile Redwood Loop Trail, which meanders through some of the oldest and tallest trees in the park, including the Mother and Father of the Forest. Guided hikes on the trail are offered on weekends. Or, challenge yourself with one of the longer treks, like the four-mile Ocean View Summit Loop, which rewards visitors with ridgetop views of the Pacific.

Photo Courtesy of: Friends of Santa Cruz County State Parks

While many of Big Basin’s trails are still closed, restoration work is happening at a steady clip. A team of 50-plus state park staff and conservation crew members has been camping in the backcountry year-round since the fire, working to clear and reconstruct the 18,000-acre park’s network of trails.

At the park’s western coastal entrance, the new 684-square-foot Rancho del Oso Welcome Center opened last year, featuring interpretive exhibits and an observation deck with ocean views. Open trails here include the seasonal Marsh Trail, accessible from May through October, and the Hoover Trail that’s open year-round. While the campsites in the heart of Big Basin remain closed, a small interim campground at Rancho del Oso offers six places to pitch your tent.

WHAT’S AHEAD

Looking to the future, the Reimagining Big Basin initiative outlines a plan for rebuilding visitor facilities—just not in their original locations. “Early planners weren’t expecting to get a million visitors a year coming by car from Highway 280 and Highway 17,” Garret says. “The silver lining of the fire is that now we have an opportunity to redesign the park so that it can handle that kind of visitation while also lessening the impacts on the natural resources.”

Cover Photo Courtesy of: Max Whittaker - Save the Redwoods League

Experts say that as long as there have been redwoods at Big Basin, there have been fires, but a wildfire of the magnitude of the CZU Complex hadn’t been seen for hundreds of years. One reason is that advancements in wildfire suppression have led to a buildup of overgrowth, Garret says, leaving parks like Big Basin vulnerable to extreme fire events that are intensified by climate change.

Save the Redwoods League, California State Parks and a coalition of other partners are proposing a new forest stewardship plan that includes thinning and prescribed burning, techniques employed by the region’s indigenous people for thousands of years. Their hope is to help keep Big Basin’s redwood forests healthy in a warmer, drier climate. If it works, visitors will be able to appreciate the beauty of these ancient giants for generations to come.

Visiting Big Basin

Big Basin Redwoods State Park is open for limited day use. Parking reservations at the primary day use area are recommended ($6 per vehicle plus a $2 reservation fee, or $10 per vehicle without a reservation). No fees or reservations are required for day use at Rancho del Oso. Hop on a seasonal shuttle at the Saddle Mountain parking area, a pilot program that allows visitors to make a reservation and get a ride into the park, or take advantage of Santa Cruz Metro’s expanded seasonal bus route on weekends. Check parks.ca.gov/bigbasin for trail maps and updates.

Dockside Destination

Words by Elaine Wu

Every aspect of Hurrica Restaurant in Redwood City, from the aquatic color scheme to the marine-themed artwork, the beautifully designed decor to the fresh local ingredients on their seasonal menu, has been carefully crafted and curated. So it’s surprising to hear that co-owner MeeSun Boice considers herself an accidental restaurateur. “I think I take on challenges in my career because it’s kind of like soul-searching. You find out who you really are and what you’re capable of,” she reflects.

MeeSun’s willingness to face a challenge may stem from her childhood. She was adopted from an orphanage in South Korea when she was eight and transported to Kansas. “People used to call me names and threaten me,” she recalls. “I didn’t see another Asian face for 10 years. But you can choose whether you want to be a victim of it. I learned that if I wanted something, I had to go out and get it for myself.”

After climbing the financial corporate ladder, then switching to the world of tech, she realized she was putting in too many hours at the office without enough to show for it. “I thought to myself, ‘If I’m going to spend this much time working on something, I need to do it for myself,’” she says.

A self-proclaimed foodie, MeeSun reached out to chef and restauranteur Parke Ulrich, a friend who had already seen success with his eateries Epic Steak and Waterbar in San Francisco. “I saw how hard he worked and I dined regularly at his restaurants. So we decided to build something together,” she says. After opening Mersea on Treasure Island in 2018, MeeSun and Parke started looking for another water-centric locale to open their second restaurant. Despite its out-of-the-way location, she fell in love with Redwood City’s Westpoint Harbor and its stunning views.

“Hurrica is a hidden gem because people don’t even know this marina exists. But when you get here, you see the boats, the water—it’s a small escape from the rest of the world,” MeeSun explains. “If you’re going to build something, you might as well build it in a location you love coming to yourself.”

Executive chef and partner Justin Baade’s creativity is on full display at Hurrica, filling the menu with dishes that are expertly prepared, minus the pretentiousness. “Hurrica feels unique, whether it’s the food or the space,” he says. “I want the service and the food to be elevated but I don’t want fine dining. I want there to be value but still plenty of style. We want it to be elegant but still comfortable.”

As the former chef de cuisine at Waterbar, Justin certainly has a passion for working with seafood, but he’s careful not to brand Hurrica as a seafood restaurant. Everything from the popular slow-roasted pork chop to the whole roasted dorade fish—deboned at the table—responds well to the open kitchen’s live-fire cooking.

“The hearth is central to our menu,” Justin explains. “When you cook over a fire, it imparts a flavor that you can’t get any other way. There’s no substitute. I’m constantly thinking of ways to use the fire.”

There’s no doubt that Hurrica is a sophisticated dining destination, with its beautiful interior, deftly executed dishes and eye-catching jellyfish tank. But its true appeal is in its approachable menu and warm, easy vibe. “It’s not just a restaurant. You’re coming into our home,” MeeSun says proudly. “You’re coming to have an experience. We built this place so you can leave happier than when you came.”

harbor views – hurrica.restaurant

Hurrica's Shellfish Chowder

Serves 8

Ingredients
5 pounds fresh top neck or cherrystone clams
¼ cup white wine (sauvignon blanc is best)
6 cups clam juice
2 ounces unsalted butter
4 ounces bacon
½ cup small white onion, diced
¼ cup fennel bulbs, small dice
½ cup all-purpose flour
¼ cup celery, small dice
1 pound Yukon gold potatoes, peeled and medium dice
2 cups heavy cream
1 pound small shrimp
2 tablespoon minced chives 
Salt and pepper to taste

Wash and purge the clams in ice water. Leave them sitting in water for 10-15 minutes to remove any sand.

In a large pot, combine clams and white wine. Cover and cook over high heat for 2 minutes. Add clam juice and bring to a simmer. Remove clams from the pot as they open and let them cool. Strain the remaining liquid through a fine sieve to remove any bits of shell or sand and reserve.

In the same pot, melt butter. Add bacon and cook over low heat until the fat is rendered. Remove bacon and reserve.

Add the onion and fennel to the butter and bacon fat, and cook until soft. Add celery and flour, stirring to combine. Cook over low heat for 2 minutes, stirring frequently. Add potatoes and reserved liquid and bring to a simmer over low heat, stirring constantly.

Remove clam meat from shells and slice into large pieces. Once the chowder comes to a simmer, add the shrimp and heavy cream and cook until shrimp are done. Add in the reserved clams, and season with salt and pepper to taste.

Serve with a garnish of bacon and chives.

Landmark: Talking Heads

Words by Bob Siegel

If you’ve made the drive down University Avenue towards the Dumbarton Bridge in recent months, you probably noticed a giant modernist sculpture at the edge of an empty field. It looks a bit like liquid mercury with its shiny, silvery color, and fluid, rounded surfaces. Not only is the shape intriguing, but so is the apparent incongruity of the location. If you tried to capture an image of it, you might have found that the sculpture is more adept at capturing you, as its undulating surface acts like a funhouse mirror, reflecting you in myriad orientations and distortions. Composed of stainless steel and standing an imposing 18 feet high, it originally debuted at the Burning Man festival in Nevada in 2019, where it conjured up the image of a shimmering mirage in the desert. It’s called Talking Heads, and it’s the work of local artist Oleg Lobykin. Born in Russia, Oleg lives in East Palo Alto—so the sculpture found a fitting temporary home. If you’re wondering why it’s gone missing in 2025, Oleg says Talking Heads recently found a new home in San Francisco at Patricia’s Green Park. A highly creative sculptor and stone craftsman, Oleg is also responsible for the statues of Benjamin Franklin and Johannes Gutenberg that adorn the front of the Stanford University Quad. That’s not Oleg’s only contribution to the Quad. He’s also involved in the ongoing restoration of its sandstone architecture. People are likely to have their own interpretations of Talking Heads. This intriguing landmark awaits yours.

Hillside Sanctuary

Words by Lotus Abrams

Perched in Portola Valley, overlooking undulating hills peppered with California oaks, is “Hillside Sanctuary,” a spacious and gracious home with a very local interior designer. For Lisa Staprans, principal founder and creative director of Portola Valley-based Lisa Staprans Designs, it represents so much more than just another completed project. Her work on this home inspired a talk she gave at the INK Conference in Jaipur, India, as well as her book, The Soul of Design, which was published last year. “This house became a catalyst for how you bring soul into a space, which became my foundational way of looking at design moving forward,” recalls Lisa, whose career spans more than three decades.

Designed by architect Bob Stoecker of Stoecker + Northway Architects and built from the ground up in 2011 by general contractor Marrone & Marrone, the 6,500-square-foot home belongs to a local couple she’s known for years. “We raised our kids together,” explains Lisa. After accompanying a group of women on a transformative trip to India that included the wife, the couple asked Lisa if she would design the interior spaces of the dream house they were building.

“The prime directive was to create an environment where they could recharge and rejuvenate and then go back out and be their best selves in the world,” says Lisa, whose husband and partner, Armin Staprans, also collaborated on the project. “There was also a lot of programming needed to make the house work for different purposes. They finished raising their family there, and it’s also a place for gathering.”

The calming interior design begins with the color and material palette—all chosen with intention to bring the outside in. The walls are clad in a warm, muted shade of Venetian plaster that evokes the golden-hued grasses of the surrounding hills. Clear cedar ceilings that extend from indoors to the underside of the exterior eaves, along with custom mahogany millwork and floors, are inspired by the tree canopy. Cast bronze features prominently in the home, as does stone, which is used on the exterior of the house, integrated into the landscaping and incorporated indoors, where it grounds the fireplace in the step-down formal living room. “There’s a real sense of vastness when you look out the windows through the trees, but also a feeling of intimacy and cohesion because of the continuity in colors and materials,” Lisa describes.


Decisions surrounding circulation—the way in which its inhabitants move around the house—were likewise purposeful. The anchor of the home is the kitchen, which can be accessed from three different points and manages to feel both distinct from and connected to the home’s other public spaces. At the center of the kitchen is the range, sheltered by a cast-bronze hood and backed by an integrated mahogany counter-height table that invites a moment of reflection in a space often defined by activity.

Designed to mimic the shape of the hills outside, a cast glass element atop a low wall separates the kitchen from the family room—which feels cozy despite the scale of the space, thanks to the fireplace, curved couch and built-in bookcase—while still allowing interaction. Windows above the kitchen cabinets open to the hallway, and the dining room features a large interior window with cast glass and mahogany pocket doors that can be closed when needed. “You feel like you’re always connected to the bigger part of the home, yet you always have a sense of being in a separate space,” Lisa says.

The private rooms of the home are thoughtfully designed with relaxation in mind. A cabinet in the primary bedroom, made by a local San Francisco artist, hides the TV from view when not in use, while the primary bathroom is outfitted with a jetted soaking tub, purple quartzite surfaces and cast glass lighting. Motorized top-down, bottom-up shades in both rooms provide privacy while still showcasing the view. Additional rooms include the kids’ bedrooms, an exercise room and a guest suite.

Throughout the house, Lisa embellished the rooms with furnishings that are meant to be timeless rather than trendy, and included many art pieces and antiques from Asia and Africa, adding a meaningful touch to the design. “Each object has its own story and soul, and then it layers into the bigger picture of the room,” Lisa says. Sheer window treatments in the public spaces softly filter the abundant natural light entering the house through its many wood-framed windows.

Outside, the terraced spaces include an outdoor kitchen; covered dining deck; multiple seating areas, including a firepit area; and a pool deck. Landscape designer Willie Lang integrated several water features into the natural, organic landscaping, so the sound of trickling water can be heard inside the home when the doors and windows are open.

When the project was finished, Lisa had Alex Stark, a feng shui and Native American geomancy practitioner, perform a blessing ritual at the house, and the original group of women from the trip to India gathered at the home for a dinner. It was then that Lisa realized this hillside sanctuary was more than just a house; it had a soul. “This home is a great example of how a project can be not only timeless, but also transformative and truly embody the essence of what a soul is,” she says. “It celebrates the view, it celebrates nature, it provides moments of pause—you have all of these elements that represent the joy of what it is to be human.”

spirited spaces – stapransdesign.com

Essay: Storage Wars

Words by Sloane Citron

As my parents passed, my siblings and I took items that we either wanted for our homes (or our children’s homes) or that had sentimental meaning. When you have seen a piece of furniture or art all of your life, it’s hard to let go of it. Maybe harder, actually, since there’s also the connection to your father or mother.

My sister Shelley is more disciplined than my brother, Dan, and me. She knows exactly what she wants (usually a high-quality item) and exactly where she is going to put it. She is not a saver, and if she takes something down from her home (a painting, for example), she first offers it to Dan or me. Her sentimentality level is significantly below my brother’s and mine.

When my mother died several years ago (after my father), the deal was that if you wanted any of her furniture, you would be responsible for getting it to your home from Houston. I opted for the expensive route of sending the furniture, around eight large pieces, to my son Josh’s home, because he had an empty garage. And it was then that I made my first unsatisfactory effort to have my children take what I considered to be wonderful things.

I believe that one small chair, taken by my daughter Arielle, was the only piece that left the garage. So, the stuff sat there, as stuff does. A year later, Josh informed me that they were going to turn their garage (an exceptionally large one) into a one-bedroom ADU. I knew the day of reckoning had arrived.

Again, I appealed to my kids to take these fantastic pieces and again, I was unable to move any of the stuff. At that point, I had no real options, so I hired a man and a truck and sent most of the furniture to Habitat for Humanity. There were four pieces—three small cabinets and a love seat—that I just couldn’t give away, so I kept them in hopes that one day they might find a place in my own home.

I found a storage unit nearby in Menlo Park and also moved the hard top of my vintage sports car there, along with some other items. My daughter Arielle had a collection of her own things for her interior design company, and she used the storage space as well.

The storage unit became this forgotten black hole where things went in but never came out. The only reminder was the monthly bill that showed up on my credit card. I tried to avert my eyes each month when the statement came, knowing that this was exactly what the storage company wanted me to do—pay the bill and forget about the stuff.

Once in a great while, Arielle would want to look for something (“Did we put that oriental rug that used to be in the dining room into the storage unit—I think I might want to try it.”) and we would drive over, figure out how to get into it and then look blindly into the cavernous space to see what we could see, which was not much. They don’t put lights in these units for a reason: you rummage around a bit and can’t see anything, so you give up and leave.
Several months ago, following the trend of businesses today, whether warranted or not, the storage company sent me a letter stating that the rates were going up substantially. I knew that seeing an even larger number on my credit card statement would make me nuts, so I knew I had to do something.

I looked at rates around our area and then discussed the situation with the staff at my current location. I decided that it would be much easier to take a very small unit and stay put. Arielle and I went over and pulled everything out of the unit and created piles of “keep, donate, toss.” We had a guy with a truck meet us there and we gave him all the donate and toss items and happily watched him drive away.

It did not look possible for us to get the remaining items (including my furniture and the hard top) into the small space, but the secret was going up, so we did our best to balance the items on each other, knowing that an earthquake might send them tumbling. But we finally got the job done and quickly spirited away like thieves in the night, before we could hear a loud crash.

Here’s the deal: your kids probably don’t want their grandmother’s (or yours, for that matter) stuff. You assume that they will want it, but don’t fall into that trap. Today, I don’t even remember the great things I brought all the way across the country, only to end up giving them away. You, too, will forget. And in 10 years, when one of your kids finally asks about a particular chair or cabinet, you can just pull out your phone and show them a picture of it.

Hollywood Comes to The Peninsula

Words by Johanna Harlow

San Francisco has a reputation for attracting some real characters. The City by the Bay has long been a favorite filming location. Remember when Scottie from Vertigo visits the graveyard at Mission Dolores and Eddie from Venom battles it out in the Tenderloin’s alleys? Or The Maltese Falcon’s Sam Spade witnessing a boat go up in flames over at the Ferry Building? And who isn’t familiar with the Fuller House family’s home in the row of Victorians known as the Painted Ladies? But it doesn’t take a trip to SF to find filming locations close to home. We have our fair share of scenic cinema-scapes right here on the Peninsula.

Our region’s stately mansions have been the settings for outlandish parties, while our sweeping natural landscapes have also graced the big screen. Classrooms and courtrooms, bridges and bluffs, these Peninsula places can’t help but capture the imagination. “We have everything,” says SF Peninsula’s film commissioner Cam Newton. “We have vast open spaces. We have mountains. We have what look like deserts. We have quaint downtowns. Every setting that you could possibly hope for in a movie is all within a half-hour drive.”

You may have stood in the same places where Robin Williams, Brendan Fraser, Jennifer Lopez and Zac Efron delivered iconic lines. You may even have attended school where Michelle Pfeiffer played an inspirational teacher. Check out the scene at these cinematic settings.

Cover Photo Courtesy of: Mike James / Interior Photo: Jeff Bartee

George of the Jungle Swings by Filoli

Pick a genre, any genre, and there’s probably a film that features Filoli. Fantasy, action, rom-com, drama, soap opera, thriller, musical—they’ve all been shot on its grounds. Is it any wonder? Those who have wandered the historic estate’s idyllic gardens and admired its ambitious architecture understand its magic. You’ll spot an aerial view of Filoli’s mansion and clocktower in the opening credits of every episode of the iconic 1980s soap opera Dynasty, and glimpse the estate’s gravel driveway during an unsettling scene in The Game, a thriller starring Michael Douglas.

Filoli’s ballroom, covered in murals and etched in ornate gold trim, has long drawn filmmakers. It’s been the site of a seductive dance during a pre-war Shanghai flashback in The Joy Luck Club and where Joanne and Maureen of Rent belt out the song “Take Me or Leave Me.” In George of the Jungle, everyone’s favorite ape man horrifies high society when he piles food from the buffet onto a serving tray lid he’s turned into a makeshift plate, then tucks a banana into his tux. This luxurious hall is also Joe’s home gym in Heaven Can Wait, a harp positioned right beside a rack of weights.

Photo Courtesy of: Brandon Price

High School Musical Sings at Stanford

Remember the plucky cast of High School Musical? As the theater kids and athletes ponder where to attend university in the trilogy’s final film, Vanessa Hudgens’ character chooses Stanford. As she settles into college life, we see her walking the courtyard behind Wallenberg Hall. She and Zac Efron also share a sweet song and dance in the Papua New Guinea Garden—right after he stares deeply into her eyes and murmurs, “My prom is wherever you are.” Ah, young love.

A university known for its advancements in the sciences, Stanford also has a cameo in multiple episodes of the long-running TV show Myth Busters. Hosts Adam and Jamie tested out the college’s driving simulator at the Volkswagen Automotive Innovation Lab for an experiment on driving with hands-free devices, tried out a mass spectrometer in an episode on germs and recruited the rowing team at the Stanford Rowing and Sailing Center to attempt the theoretical and outlandish sport of “row-skiing” (waterskiing behind a row boat). Bill Nye the Science Guy also filmed on campus, meeting with biologist and professor Chris R. Somerville to explore “Pollution Solutions.”

Photo Courtesy of: Don Debold

A Fishing Village Comes to Fitzgerald Marine Reserve

Did you know the Fitzgerald Marine Reserve served as a Shōwa period Japanese fishing village in 2016? For the movie adaptation of bestseller Memoirs of a Geisha, a film crew constructed a small hut along the bluffs of Moss Beach. Over two days, they shot the movie’s somber opening scene, establishing our heroine Chiyo’s impoverished childhood and the betrayal that sets her story in motion. Beyond that stormy ocean overlook, you’ll also recognize the cypress grove where a cart rattles along uneven ground. The film also shot verdant scenes at nearby Hakone Gardens in Saratoga and the Japanese Tea Garden at San Francisco’s Golden Gate Park.

Photo Courtesy of: Dennis Jarvis

Flubber Bounces Around Kohl Mansion

Over the years, Burlingame’s Kohl Mansion has been the site of a few ghost stories—so is it really a leap to imagine sentient green goo bouncing off its walls? Flubber, starring Robin Williams as a scatterbrained inventor, used the mansion for exterior shots of the fictional Medfield College. But it’s not just an educational institute in this comedy—it’s home to Mercy Burlingame, an all-girls private high school since 1931.

No stranger to show business, Kohl Mansion was memorialized in film long before “the talkies,” serving as a key set on the silent 1921 film Little Lord Fauntleroy. Considering that the mansion once belonged to Frederick Kohl, heir to the Alaska Commercial Company, this locale seems a particularly fitting one for the story of a poor little rich boy.

Photo Courtesy of: Robb Most

The Escape to Witch Mountain Kids Enter Coleman Mansion

The Italianate Coleman Mansion might be held in esteem by historians and architects, but to the kids in Escape to Witch Mountain, it’s another jungle gym. In this 1975 Disney film, the first glimpse the audience gets of the manor-turned-orphanage is of youngsters shimmying up its Corinthian columns and sliding down the handrail flanking the front steps. In the real world, the Menlo Park estate was converted into a private school, not an orphanage—and some of its lucky students played extras in the film. You’ll spot a number of Peninsula School kids chasing each other around in the background while the camera follows Tony and Tia, a young psychic and telekinetic. The field trip to the cinema was shot nearby at the Fine Arts Theatre on California Avenue. It stopped showing screenings long ago—serving as an oriental rug shop, then ZombieRunner, the beloved cafe and running store—but you’ll still find the original marquee above the entry.

Photo Courtesy of: Robb Most

Harold & Maude Put Pedal to the Metal across Dumbarton Bridge

Harold and Maude are certainly one of the Bay Area’s odder film couples. In this cult classic, a death-obsessed young man who drives a hearse and has a habit of staging melodramatic fake suicides goes on wild escapades all around the Peninsula with his 79-year-old car thief of a girlfriend. Their misadventures take them from St. Thomas Aquinas Church in Palo Alto (where the couple first meet) to Marshall Street in Redwood City (where Maude “liberates” a street tree with the intention of transplanting it in the forest) to the old Dumbarton Bridge (where Maude peels off, a motorcycle cop in hot pursuit).

There’s more. Hillsborough’s Rosecourt Mansion along leafy Eucalyptus Avenue acts as Harold’s family home. In real life, the private residence belonged to George T. Cameron, publisher of the San Francisco Chronicle. And let’s not forget the scene at Mori Point, a picturesque spot in Pacifica where a car careens wildly off the cliffs.

Photo Courtesy of: Robb Most

The Wedding Planner Comes to Crystal Springs Reservoir

What better place for a wedding than Woodside? In Jennifer Lopez’s film The Wedding Planner, an idyllic scene takes viewers for a car ride along Crystal Springs Reservoir. As the camera catches fluffy clouds above that shimmering expanse of water, it reminds us that it might be time for another leisurely drive along Highway 35. Bay Area moviegoers will also recognize one of the places the bride-to-be checks out as a possible venue. It’s Filoli again, its grounds flush with springtime daffodils, tulips and flowering trees.

Photo Courtesy of: Robb Most

Dangerous Minds go to Class at San Mateo High School

Time to hit the books. Both San Mateo and Burlingame high schools were used for filming in the drama Dangerous Minds. Based on a memoir, the story relays the experiences of LouAnne Johnson, a U.S. Marine who became a teacher at Carlmont High School, a Belmont institute with a rough reputation back in the ‘80s. LouAnne must have been over the moon when she found out she’d be played by Michelle Pfeiffer.

Photo Courtesy of: Jerry Pierce

Bicentennial Man explores oracle

Can you really have too much Robin Williams? We think not. Bicentennial Man, the tale of a housekeeping robot who gains consciousness and learns what it means to be human, seems a fitting story for Silicon Valley. When the robot and his custodian pay a visit to NorthAm Robotics, they are actually outside Oracle Corporation in Redwood City. As the two of them share a heart-to-heart, the tech company’s impressive blue glass office towers gleam in the distance. Only a 20-minute drive down the road is the Martin family home. Their charming ivy-covered English manor house with wave-course shingles is the main house of the Fleishhacker family’s 74-acre Green Gables Estate in Woodside.

Photo Courtesy of: Hakan Dahlstrom

Mrs. Doubtfire visits San Mateo County History Museum

Raring for more Robin Williams? Mrs. Doubtfire may have mostly filmed in San Francisco, but Redwood City’s San Mateo County History Museum also featured in this beloved family film. Before it became a museum, this stately building with its stained-glass dome and stone eagles served as the old County Courthouse. You can still step into a fully furnished courtroom upstairs and imagine Robin Williams pleading his case with the judge. While you’re there, don’t forget to check out the museum’s exhibit on lawmakers and breakers with displays of sheriff’s badges and a pair of dueling pistols.

Magical Morro Bay

Rolling into Morro Bay shortly before sunset, we get our first glimpse of the lively harbor. Squadrons of pelicans swoop along the shore and boisterous sea lions bark on a floating dock. Strolling out to a small viewing pier, we take in the scene. A novice sailor in a two-man boat struggles with the sails, an animated group floats by on a party boat and a group of kayakers skims silently through the placid water. Nearby, a sleek sea otter floats on its back. Breaking a shell with a rock and gulping down the critter inside, it executes a neat barrel roll and dives in search of more tasty morsels. We got into town 10 minutes ago and already we’re entranced.

One of a string of Central California beach towns in San Luis Obispo County, Morro Bay’s laid-back, small-town charm might be best experienced during the off-season. While summertime vacationers can crowd the stretch of shops, eateries and small hotels along the Embarcadero, on a warm winter day there’s plenty of activity but also plenty of elbow room. The scenic harbor, bookended by Morro Rock on one side and a meandering estuary on the other, is so full of life that it’s hard to look away. Thanks to the long wooden walkway punctuated by benches and piers that overlook it, you seldom have to.

Cover Photo: Courtesy of Visit Moro Bay

Our spotless second-floor room at the boutique Anderson Inn boasts beachy chic decor and two balconies, one with a view of the harbor and another with a table and chairs overlooking the sidewalks of the Embarcadero. We grab binoculars from the desk and zero in on the dizzying array of sea birds and water fowl, spotting even more otters bobbing in the bay.

EXPLORE

While the view from the shore is lovely, we aim to experience Morro Bay from the water with a kayaking and hiking tour led by the vivacious Mandy Davidson of Wildheart Coastal Adventures. The affable expert on local flora and fauna is a longtime resident who fields all our questions with ease. We start out with a short, steep hike to a rocky promontory for an overview of the entire estuary, from harbor to wetlands.

Photography Courtesy of: Visit Slo Cal

Back at the harbor, a dockside kayaking lesson builds our confidence. Paddling out in a tandem kayak behind Mandy’s is like the difference between watching a wildlife documentary and going on a safari. Instead of observers, we’re part of this watery world. We spy a huge osprey perched atop a sailboat’s mast and lanky egrets and herons stalking prey on a sandbar. We pass through schools of tiny silvery fish, their bodies shimmering in the sunlight, and close in on that big group of noisy sea lions. From the kayak, we see that they’re packed in so tightly, the dock has sunk down to the waterline. If one more blubbery fellow tries to join them, they’ll all end up underwater.

The sheer range of wildlife in the harbor is breathtaking, but frankly, it’s hard to stop watching all the furry little otters. In almost every direction, we spy one tending to her sleek pup. We pull up our paddles to watch as one of the bigger otter pups tentatively swims away from mom and ducks its head under the water, its chubby rump still bobbing on the surface. “This phase, where they’re dog-paddling and learning to dive, it only lasts a couple of days,” Mandy marvels, adding that she’s never seen as many baby otters as she has this winter.

Photography Courtesy of: Visit Morro Bay

If wielding a paddle isn’t your idea of fun, other options include hopping aboard a boat for a tour with family-owned Morro Bay Whale Watching and Sub Sea Adventures or renting an electric pontoon boat that seats up to 10 people from Estero Adventures.

Morro Bay and the surrounding area also offer plenty to do on dry land. Serious birders will want to visit the Heron Rookery Natural Preserve in Morro Bay State Park, where snowy egrets, great blue herons and other impressive birds raise their young. Hikers can head two miles south of the city of Morro Bay to Los Osos Elfin Forest, which offers boardwalk and sand trails. If surfing and sunbathing is more your style, check out Morro Rock Beach’s six-mile stretch of sand.

Anderson Inn Photo: Courtesy Anderson Inn - Adam Smth Photography

Morro Bay’s harbor and historic downtown are compact and walkable if shopping and strolling is your idea of a relaxing weekend. Check out Coalesce Bookstore, which has been selling new and used books for over 50 years. The nearby Art Center Morro Bay is one of the Central Coast’s largest venues, exhibiting fine art by local artists. On Saturday afternoons, the weekly Morro Bay Farmers Market is a great place for browsing local produce, crafts, olive oil and prepared foods while enjoying live music.

SAVOR

Like most seaside towns, you’ll find fish and chips and clam chowder on a lot of menus. Most of Morro Bay’s harbor view restaurants specialize in seafood, but at Tognazzini’s Dockside, the owner just might be the one who brought in the catch of the day. Morro Bay native Mark Tognazzini is a commercial fisherman, and if he didn’t catch your fish, he can almost certainly tell you which local fisherman did. His boat, the Bonnie Marietta, is the star of the town’s annual Lighted Boat Parade in December. This past holiday season, he spent three full days decking her out in over 26,000 LED lights.

The Galley, attached to the Anderson Inn, offers top-notch seafood “served naked,” with sauces on the side (the better to appreciate its freshness), along with produce from the chef’s family farm. For more casual dining, settle into a booth and enjoy friendly service and delicious seared ahi fish tacos at Rose’s Landing Bar and Grill. Walk-up fish markets like Lil Harbor Hut and Giovanni’s Take-Out Express let you enjoy your fish and chips on the go, while Dorn’s Breakers Cafe is a local favorite for brunch. For a pick-me-up, walk a few blocks from the harbor to Scout Coffee and try a cup of the pour-over Ethiopian with one of their savory scones made in-house daily.

All too soon, the weekend is over and it’s time to head back to the Peninsula. The three-and-a-half hour drive north offers plenty of time to chart the next trip to Morro Bay. “Our best weather is in the off-season,” Mandy advises us. “Spring can be windy, but in between storms is the best weather.” Sounds like a plan.

coastal charm – morrobay.org

Diary of a Dog: Romeo

I’m Romeo, and while I may be named after Shakespeare’s star-crossed lover, my life in Menlo Park is anything but tragic. This labradoodle’s got a very good thing going with Carolyn and her three kids, Maxwell, Madeline and Curtis, who brought me home on Valentine’s Day 10 years ago. We go on frequent trips to Town & Country and Stanford shopping centers, where I collect goodies from all the businesses. Sunny days often find us at the beach in Half Moon Bay, where I like to bury balls in the sand to dig up and play with later. And in the evenings, we go visit my favorite dogs and their treat-sharing humans at La Entrada School. I haven’t romanced any Capulets but I’m a little like my namesake in some ways—I love giving kisses! I just can’t get enough petting and snuggling, and I hate to sleep alone. I have so much love to give that Carolyn signed me up with Furry Friends as a trained therapy dog. You might find me at local schools during finals week, helping stressed-out students relax, or hanging out with residents at the Vi’s skilled nursing center and the Ronald McDonald House. If ol’ Will had only had an affectionate dog like me, maybe he would have been inspired to write Romeo and Juliet a happier ending.

Calling All Dogs: If you've got quirky habits or a funny tale (or tail) to share, email your story to hello@punchmonthly.com for a chance to share a page from your Diary of a Dog in PUNCH.

Q&A: Jeff Clark

Half Moon Bay’s famous big-wave surfer and co-founder of the Mavericks Surf Contest spills about daring feats, close calls and being in tune with the ocean.

How would you describe Mavericks?
Mavericks is a surf spot, located a half-mile out, off Pillar Point in Half Moon Bay. The reef structure underwater shapes large ocean swells into a very large, rideable wave. Mavericks is known throughout the world as one of the biggest surfable waves on the planet.

Tell us about the first time you surfed there?
On that winter day in 1975, I caught five waves. After the first successful attempt, all I could think was, “I want another one of those!”

What was a close call you’ve had at Mavericks?
In 2004, there was a giant swell. I was pulled into a monster only to find out that there was no way I could make it. I turned up the face of the wave and punched through the roof and out the back. My tow partner and driver missed the pickup and a 60-foot wave caught all of us … One of the worst situations I’ve ever been in.

Any advice you’d give to novice surfers?
Start small and work your way up in wave size in a very calculated way. Just remember that one man’s ceiling is another man’s floor.

What was your first job and what did you learn from it?
At nine years old, I was scraping floor tiles in a commercial building remodel in Oakland, and I got a dollar a day. I learned how to work, and I learned it was something that I didn’t want to do for the rest of my life.

How do you make your living these days?
I started shaping surfboards in my early teens, and now I build and design my own line of surfboards. They are all made specific to whatever is needed for the water conditions and tailored to the rider.

What can you tell us about your experience as a camera boat driver for Chasing Mavericks?
It’s a film about Jay Moriarty, whom I helped teach how to surf Mavericks. I am not sure that anyone else could do the job they were asking. I was able to put that boat in places that many thought were impossible because I know Mavericks like the back of my hand.

How do you get the confidence to take on such big waves?
When people run from the ocean is when I am interested in going in it. Being in the moment, with a power that is constantly trying to kill you, is key to your survival. Being so immersed in the ocean that you become a part of it. Feeling every small movement and all the nuances and energy. I pray before I go in.

Growing up, what was your favorite book?
Jonathan Livingston Seagull. The only limits are the ones you create.

Star Struck

Words by Jennifer Jory

Andrew Fraknoi is a man on a mission—a space mission, that is. For decades, he’s inspired and educated both students and the public on the wonders of astronomy, from Foothill and Cañada colleges to San Francisco State University. “This is the golden age of astronomy,” Andrew declares. From radio stations and local TV to The Today Show, he’s become the Bay Area’s go-to astronomer for explaining celestial phenomena in down-to-earth terms. “My focus right now is to interpret the complex and abstract things we are learning about the universe so that people can understand them,” he says.

Born in Hungary, Andrew and his family fled during the 1956 revolution against communist rule, and ended up in an Austrian refugee camp. From there, they ultimately made their way to New York. “I didn’t speak a word of English,” Andrew recalls. “My mother had the idea of using comic books to teach English to me, and I particularly loved space comics.” He soon graduated to science fiction, and when it came time to choose what to study in college, astronomy was his first choice. “Eventually, I realized I could do space stuff for a living,” he beams.

Andrew’s excitement builds as he discusses the latest astronomical discoveries. “It looks like Star Trek was right,” he says with a smile. “There really are planets around other stars.” In 1995, the common perception was that there were just a few planets outside of our own solar system, Andrew explains. “Now we know there are other suns and 5,000 planets orbiting those suns or stars.” Recent breakthroughs and advances in astronomy are thanks to the James Webb Space Telescope.

“This is the biggest telescope we have ever had in space, allowing us to look back to the beginning of time,” he marvels. While light travels swiftly, the incredible distances mean that the images show galaxies as they appeared a very long time ago. “We are now seeing things 13.4 billion years old that are very close to the big bang,” Andrew adds, referring to the theory of the universe’s origin 13.8 billion years ago. “The earliest galaxies and structures are so far away and so long ago, they are amazing.”

Educated at Harvard University and UC Berkeley, Andrew’s career as an astronomer took off in 1978 when he was hired as the executive director of the Astronomical Society of the Pacific. Fourteen years later, working 80 hours a week at his job and newly married to his wife Lola, he realized the pace was unsustainable. In search of a less intense job, he applied for a teaching position at Foothill College in Los Altos Hills, where he was quickly hired and began a new devotion to teaching about space full time. “It was a very good fit,” he notes. “They have a lovely observatory run by a group of astronomy hobbyists and it was a job where I could have a life. I was there for 25 years and we grew the program significantly.”

Andrew also taught at Cañada College in Woodside, where the enthusiastic public affairs officer connected him with KGO radio. He soon became a regular, and could also be found sharing his astronomical insights on KQED TV. “I was a cheap imitation of Carl Sagan,” Andrew says humbly. The scientific community thought otherwise and the International Astronomical Union recognized his achievements by naming Asteroid 4859 “Asteroid Fraknoi.”

While teaching at Foothill, Andrew saw an opportunity to make astronomy education more widely available by creating a lecture series in the college’s 950-seat theater. Called Silicon Valley Astronomy Lectures, it featured Nobel Prize winners and best-selling authors. NASA took an interest in the program and offered to sponsor it. “Foothill College administrators were so enthusiastic they allowed us to use the theater for free,” Andrew recounts. Soon Andrew began making the scientific talks available on YouTube so that anyone interested in space could hear from experts. “These nerdy lectures have received 4.1 million views,” he grins. “The astronomer Alex Filippenko’s videos explain the James Webb telescope, and it is like watching Columbus get his ships ready.”

Andrew’s other focus centers on the search for life on other planets, which he pursues enthusiastically as a board member of the non-profit SETI Institute, headquartered in Mountain View. “This is the most exciting unsolved mystery in the universe,” he says. “Before I die, I would love to find out if there are other life-forms out there with whom we might talk about philosophy.  Being involved with the search for life has been a gratifying part of my career.” He also wants to set the record straight when it comes to unidentified flying objects. “There is not a shred of evidence that UFOs are alien space ships.”

In the search for intelligent life on other planets, Andrew cites Artificial Intelligence as a game-changing technology when it comes to listening for messages. “You have to look through many stars, through many channels, over a long period of time,” he describes. “With AI, computers and telescopes can work together, while the astronomer sleeps. AI can search for pattern recognition, which is key to searching for messages from space.”

Andrew’s passion to teach the marvels of the universe keeps him on the lecture circuit promoting space education for all. He currently teaches at San Francisco State University’s Osher Lifelong Learning Institute and offers classes like “If There Are Planets Everywhere, Where Are the Aliens?” and one on simplifying the theory of relativity without math called “Einstein Without Tears.” His commitment to communicating scientific concepts in layman’s terms has culminated in his free, online astronomy textbook that has become the most widely used volume on the subject.

Andrew doesn’t just write textbooks, he’s also tried his hand at science fiction. His childhood passion for the genre of the fantastic and intergalactic is still burning bright all these years later. “I have been keeping a notebook of ideas for decades,” he confesses. Despite what he calls “rejection slips from all over,” eight of his sci-fi stories have been published. Andrew now pays it forward to the next generation of future astronomers by writing the kinds of stories that captured his imagination as a young immigrant—a little inspiration for anyone else who wants to reach for the stars.

Editor’s note: This story corrects errors that appeared in the February 2025 print edition.

Essay: Vacation Uplift

Words by Sloane Citron

Recently, as we have for the past decade, my family made a holiday trip to San José del Cabo, Mexico. I’m lucky to have three daughters who take care of each and every detail, from my plane ticket to meals to resort reservations. At the airport check-in, I’m like a 10-year-old boy, raising my hand when the airline counter agent calls out my name, with my passport in hand.

It took some time for me to accept my non-leadership role on these trips since that burden was mine for many decades. But what a joy to simply show up. I used to care about making decisions, but that bravado has long been silenced.

There are 16 of us, our immediate family, with seven little kids ages six and under (and two more on their way) and the fewer opinions put forth, the better. Though I might desperately want to go to a certain restaurant in downtown Cabo, I keep my mouth shut. And when the bickering starts, I walk away. I just don’t have the patience for it anymore. My children seem to do just fine without my opinions.

We always go to the same place, a name that my brain simply refuses to remember, but is one of a multitude of lovely resorts on the water, with multiple swimming pools, several restaurants and hundreds of beach cabanas facing the ocean. Whoever gets up earliest goes down to commandeer enough space for our family.

On this trip, like others, once we are comfortably ensconced in our cabanas and looking out at the ocean, one of the more difficult challenges of the trip stares me in the face: men and women—outside of the resort’s boundaries—trying to sell us something. This year, the selection included horses to ride, tropical wide-brimmed hats, jewelry, 10 feet away more tropical wide-brimmed hats, hair-braiding, bracelets, NFL-painted mini surfboards, shirts, ponchos and massages.

These earnest people are working hard and long hours, and they’re almost certainly not getting the support available in the United States if you are low-income. What they make is likely what they eat. I feel for these men and women as I lounge in my luxurious beachfront resort cabana. I sit there hoping for fellow resort guests to go over and buy something from them.
I’m optimistic when a woman draped in a wrap approaches one of the hat guys, and I’m thrilled when I see that she actually buys one. But then I feel bad for the other guy selling the exact same hats and I think to myself that he should try selling sunglasses. And so, some of my vacation is spent watching to see how these peddlers do.

Besides partaking in this rather useless activity, several times a day I take some of the little kids hunting for shells. We find plenty. I don’t think any of them ever make it home, but it’s the search that makes this fun. One day, as we are walking toward the ocean, we see a man gathering just-hatched turtles. This is a grand highlight. We slowly walk alongside two of the hatchlings working their way toward the ocean and don’t stop urging them on until the little guys finally make it into the surf.

We spend a good amount of time and energy finding and eating food. Sixteen of us times three meals a day is 48 meals a day. It adds up, but between the grocery store, the resort restaurants and a few dining trips to the OUTSIDE, no one complains. Waiters traverse the sand to our cabanas and bring us drinks, french fries (tons of french fries), so many fish tacos that I start to hate them, kids’ meals and so on. We stay satiated and are full before every regular meal.

Much of our time on this trip was spent in the various bodies of water since several of the little grandkids can now swim. The pattern goes something like this: pool 1; jacuzzi; pool 2; jacuzzi; kiddie pool (and its slide!); back to pool 1; beach chairs. Repeat until the kids are worn out, which is never.

Finally, to my delight, my kids went on several buying sprees at our oceanside tiendas. The grandkids went on the 10-minute horse rides; several bracelets were bought; granddaughters got their hair braided; and a few of the mini-surfboards were purchased just to quiet down the boys. As for the vendors who missed out on our largesse, I took some cash to them before we left and wished them a Feliz Navidad. Hopefully, it brought them some holiday cheer; I know it brought me some.

The Scenic Route

Words by Jennifer Jory

When it comes to watercolors, new art needs to be nurtured. “With this medium, it’s challenging and there is no undo button,” explains Belmont artist Bruce Washburn, who brings Peninsula and coastal landscapes to life with his precise brushstrokes. “I have to think ahead and plan the work. You have to let watercolors dry while in process and it forces you to take time to consider your options.” He adds with a smile, “I should do this more in life—wait for things to dry, and pause.”

Through his art, Bruce brings brilliant landscapes right to our doorstep. “We get to live in such a magical place,” he marvels. From San Mateo County to Yosemite and beyond, Bruce paints with a realistic and detailed style uncharacteristic of many watercolor artists. “I want to be a witness to history and I am painting natural sites that might be under pressure,” he says.


Bruce records Bay Area treasures in his growing collection of local scenes. Recently, his work caught the attention of the San Mateo County Parks Foundation, which commissioned him and two other artists to create a commemorative poster for its 25th anniversary and the 100th anniversary of the county park system. Bruce’s poster features Redwood City’s Edgewood Park and draws viewers into an idyllic scene of native lupine, poppies, butterflies and deer. Bruce generously employs rich colors to illuminate the trails, flora and fauna from every season in a single composition. “This is a key location for me on the Peninsula,” confides Bruce. “My routine was to come home from work and go running in Edgewood Park.”


Coastal sites that capture Bruce’s imagination include Pigeon Point Lighthouse in Pescadero and a 19th-century stagecoach stop in San Gregorio that, according to oral history, served as a roadhouse and music venue in the 1930s and ‘40s. “It captivates me,” he says. “I am drawn to structures that might deserve some more recognition.” Bruce also paints scenes from Big Basin National Park, Stage Road near Pescadero and Red’s Coffee House in San Francisco, to name a few. “I want to honor the places that are significant to all of us who live here and to the people who inhabited these places before,” he says.

As a student at UCLA, Bruce majored in atmospheric physics. But his artistic side prevailed over the sciences and he transferred to Humboldt State University, where he earned a fine arts degree with an emphasis in painting. “I realized I had to give the arts a serious try and see how far I could go with it,” he says. From Humboldt’s instructors, who were often working artists, he learned the lifestyle compromises he would need to make as a painter and pivoted to a career in library systems and then technology. “As a software engineer, you have all kinds of tools to measure your work, and they are mostly objective,” he reasons. “With painting, a lot of the reaction is subjective or emotional and depends on the chord you strike with the viewer.”


Now retired from his technology career, painting is Bruce’s full-time occupation. Though he previously worked with oil paints, currently he exclusively uses watercolor, occasionally adding details in pen and ink. The medium opened up for him when he encountered an exhibit at the De Young Museum: J. M. W. Turner: Painting Set Free. Turner’s work inspired Bruce to experiment and realize the potential of watercolor. It “opened a door for me and all I had to do was walk through it,” Bruce says. Other influences include artist-illustrators Beatrix Potter, N.C. Wyeth and Chris Van Alsburg.
When Bruce begins a piece, he makes a meticulously detailed graphite pencil sketch, which he often draws plein air. “I let the watercolor be a collaborator,” he describes. “If you let it, the watercolor will take your intentions further.”

A painting of the Brooklyn skyline provides a window into Bruce’s artistic lens. This scene, which he captured in a photo while walking across the Brooklyn Bridge, so captivates his imagination that he has painted it nine times. “I envision it in different kinds of lighting,” he explains. “At nighttime, for instance, with the water towers, fire escapes and brickwork lit up. It has become so familiar it almost feels like my neighborhood.”
When reflecting on the difference between painting urban and natural landscapes, Bruce finds that urban subjects require accurately rendered details of the built environment, whereas nature calls for careful consideration of spatial depth like distance and foreground. “When I am painting Yosemite Valley, I think about the epochal-scale forces that shaped that remarkable space over time,” Bruce says. He cites memories of a place playing a strong role in his paintings as well. “It’s a kind of time travel,” he reflects.


As Bruce paints meaningful and historic sites on the Peninsula and beyond, he strives to tell a story. “Something I am working on is adding more narrative associated with a painting,” he notes. Take his depiction of a ship passing beneath the Bay Bridge in the 1930s, a scene similar to what his father might have experienced when returning home from World War II. “I try to come up with a pictorial vocabulary,” Bruce says. “I am striving to make a meaningful connection between my world and the viewer. I want people to see themselves in a location or get a sense of who lives there and bring this to life.”

Bruce Washburn’s artwork has been featured in shows at the Coastal Arts League in Half Moon Bay and Art Guild of Pacifica and will be displayed during Silicon Valley Open Studios this spring. brucewashburnart.com

Coastal Contemporary

Words by Loureen Murphy

You could call Greg Barsh and Carolyn Russo designing types. Seeing their full-on engagement in their new home’s development and flair for detail, Katkin Architecture’s Rebecca Katkin says she wanted to hire her clients.
When this highly intentional pair of doctors returned to California after years in Alabama, they craved easy coastal access, a smaller place and a sense of community. Settling on El Granada, the Coastside town designed by a famed city planner, they enlisted local architect Rebecca, who helped them choose the ideal 5,000-square-foot lot. At an intersection where much of the traffic consists of dog walkers, the trapezoidal property also offers mature eucalyptus and cypress trees and coveted Half Moon Bay views.

At the outset, crafting the jewel for this perfect setting required abundant discussion and much perusing of images. The couple’s key ask was for indoor-outdoor living in a guest-friendly, modern design. Leveraging Greg’s passion for interior spaces, they developed an unusual floor plan where the common areas reside on the upper two floors. The ground floor houses the garage and two bedrooms, one used as a gym and one for guests, affectionately called “the kids’ room” for visits by their grown children and new grandbaby.


Both Rebecca and her clients consider the luminous entryway a stellar feature. The multipaned double doors open to blond-wood stairs. The washed wood flooring lends a beachy feel to the area, and by day it’s bathed in natural light through doors, windows and the sun-drenched great room. In the evening, a flush-mount light fixture near the door and a series of playful orbs suspended from the second-floor ceiling welcome guests and illuminate the great room as well. In the two-row array, one cascades down, matching the staircase angle. The other varies in height but keeps a more stable level over the hall. Considering Greg’s love of jazz, Rebecca says, “I was thinking about musical notes there, and playing the line against the variation.”

Thick glass encloses the stairway on the open side, turns at the top and flanks the great room. It then extends in a straight line beyond the outer wall to the deck, visually lengthening the space and keeping the view unobstructed. Glass doors, one of Rebecca’s favorite features, create a clear wall, opening to the deck. “Even though it’s usually 60 degrees and foggy, you can live indoor-outdoor here,” she says.


The great room comprises the kitchen, dining and sitting areas, and piano nook. Custom cherry cabinets by Millbrae’s K & B Cabinets warm the kitchen space, along with squared tongue-and-groove cedar on the ceiling. Carolyn finds the thoughtfully arranged kitchen not only beautiful but also highly functional. Tucked away on the same floor are a powder room for guests and the primary suite.

The partial third floor houses an office and sitting room, opening to a spa terrace with a hot tub and outdoor shower. The beauty of the final plan unfolded as work progressed. During construction, Rebecca observed that the window over the stairs to the upper level provided the clearest ocean vista, but a wall hid it from the main area.

Her solution? “We cut the wall off at three and a half feet so the room includes the stairwell,” explains Rebecca. Originally intended as a home gym, the third floor transformed into an office and sitting area. In doing so, it “became one of the gems of the space,” says the architect. Unexpectly, nature lent a hand in further opening the panorama during construction when a winter storm toppled some trees.

The homeowners themselves helped push through some of the typical red tape and permit delays. “Greg’s a good project manager,” says Rebecca, calling him thorough, organized and a really good advocate. “He wrote a couple of letters that made things move,” she recalls.

To honor the whole crew, an appreciative Greg and Carolyn held a barbecue party. This open-handed gesture echoed the warm, collaborative nature of the entire project. Rebecca’s firm partnered with Verdura Construction of Half Moon Bay for the first time, and for the 17-hour photo shoot with Jonathan Mitchell, she reconnected with Colleen Smith of Belmont’s Location Staging and floral designer Tanya Slye of Half Moon Bay. Rebecca already knew both from a group of coastal creatives.

The architect, who lives just three blocks away, says the new El Granada residents have consulted her on non-architectural matters regarding life there. Happy to help, Rebecca notes, “They’re not just clients—they’re neighbors.”

coast home – katkinarchitecture.com

A Lens on the World

Words by Andrea Gemmet

You never know where in the world you’ll find Menlo Park photographer Jennifer Fraser, but chances are good that she’ll be packing rain gear. While she loves to capture beautiful scenes on the Peninsula, her annual travels find her training her lens on everything from wild horses and camel trains to sulfurous mountains and underground religious shrines. But there is one pattern to her travels, from Iceland to Ladakh to the Lofoten Islands. “My kids ask why I go to so many wet, rainy places,” she says with a smile. “My grandfather was from the Shetland Islands, so it’s in my blood, I guess.”
Jennifer’s large-scale prints have found fans among local homeowners. There’s not much interest in small prints lately, she observes. People want something large enough to hang in the living room behind their sofa. Her dramatic black-and-white image of Death Valley sand dunes, which was exhibited at Praxis Photo Arts Gallery in Minneapolis, is a perfect example of what fellow photographers refer to as a “couch shot.”

Honing her craft over the years, Jennifer has developed a vocabulary of gestures for communicating with people despite a language barrier. Like most photographers, she uses a digital camera, but in her early years, she learned to develop film in the darkroom that her grandfather built. Patience and preparation are key to her process. On at least one occasion, that meant standing in a swamp with horses running at her, swatting mosquitoes with one hand and holding her camera with the other. “So much of photography involves waiting,” Jennifer says. Usually that means getting up very, very early to capture the light. “You get there in the dark and just hope that the sunrise is nice.”

ABOVE: In Cuba’s capital, Jennifer poked her head into what she thought was an abandoned building. Her first instinct was to warn the boy that the spiral staircase wasn’t safe. Then a couple walked past him on the stairs carrying grocery bags, and she realized that this was just part of daily life for the people who call it home.

ABOVE: “It has beautiful architecture, but half of Havana is falling down,” says Jennifer of her experience in Cuba. Having weathered decades of embargoes, the city’s faded grandeur reveals evocative layers of color and texture.

ABOVE: A pair of surfers walk on Pismo Beach

BELOW: A young monk at Lamayuru Buddhist monastery in northern India demonstrates his yoga pose.

chasing light – jenniferfraser.zenfolio.com

The Beat on Your Eats: New Restaurants

New year, new restaurants to explore.

portola bistro

Portola Valley

There’s a new neighborhood restaurant nestled within the Ladera Country Shopper. Portola Bistro, a charming addition to the plaza, offers dishes with a French and Italian influence in a farmhouse chic interior. It’s received praise for both the pizza with burrata and aged prosciutto and the fried artichokes with rosemary aioli, but those seeking the ultimate wintertime dish should opt for a steaming bowl of beef bourguignon with red wine-braised prime rib. If you can still move after your meal, take a lazy lap around the plaza for fresh fruit at Bianchi’s Market or an armful of flowers at Ladera Garden & Gifts. 3130 Alpine Road. Open daily.

elia

San Carlos

Time to go Greek with Elia. You’ll find this new restaurant and its genial staff in the heart of downtown San Carlos. A stylish destination, Elia’s interior includes niches displaying intriguing artifacts, wicker-backed chairs and rattan fixtures bathing the room in warm light. Elia offers all the Mediterranean classics you know and love—from grilled octopus, tzatziki dip and spanakopita to branzino and saganaki (that crowd-pleasing cheese dish cooked tableside in a flaming skillet)—and gotten glowing early reviews. Branch out from the faithful standbys with lachanika (vegetable stew in a clay pot) or the filet mignon souvlaki (skewers paired with scalloped potato gratin and Brussels sprouts). Before you go, ward off bad luck with the Evil Eye cocktail. The drink combines curaçao, peach and orange blossom vodka, passion fruit puree, coconut syrup and a splash of lemon juice, served with that iconic blue eyeball floating on top. 727 Laurel Street. Open daily.

nagai edomae sushi

Redwood City

You won’t find California rolls at chef-owner Tomonori Nagai’s new omakase restaurant in downtown Redwood City. Serving only Edomae-style sushi, “the simplest and purest form of sushi, with the most superior quality ingredients,” the emphasis is on simplicity and expert preparation. The seasonal prix-fixe menu hews to traditional methods of marinating and preserving sushi developed during Japan’s Edo period, which ended in the 1860s. Featuring beautifully executed nigiri, all of the fish is sourced from the Tokyo Bay Fish Market, the wasabi is freshly grated and the rice is a custom blend imported from Japan. The menu draws on the chef’s 25-plus years of experience at top sushi restaurants, including Sushi Kanesaka in Tokyo and Michelin-starred Shinji in Singapore. 2074 Broadway. Open Wednesday through Sunday.

Empanada Innovator

Words by Elaine Wu

To Marianne Despres, empanadas are an expression of love wrapped in delicate dough. They’re a connection to her South American heritage and to Paris, where her career in food was realized. As the owner of El Sur, a Redwood City cafe that specializes in Argentinian empanadas, Marianne is embarking on a new chapter on the Peninsula, one that brings her full circle to her childhood home.

In September 2024, Marianne opened her cafe in the same storefront where her parents used to run a grocery store. It’s the place where she first learned about the enormous amount of work that goes into operating a business. And it’s where she learned about the importance of community. “I was upstairs doing homework all the time and watched my parents work a lot, especially my dad. He was at the store from 7AM to 10PM every day,” Marianne reflects. “The store was an integral part of the neighborhood. Today, we have customers who were kids when their parents shopped here. They remember my mom and dad.”


When the old grocery store site came on the market a few years back, she jumped at the chance to relocate after running a cafe in San Francisco’s Design District. “When the city’s shelter-in-place mandate was announced, business abruptly stopped for us,” she says. “We lost all of our sales overnight.” With their freezers stocked with 8,000 empanadas, the seismic shift required a quick pivot, says Rodrigo Araya, who heads up operations. Within 24 hours, the team opened an online ordering portal that kept them operating without cutting any staff positions. In December 2022, Marianne and Rodrigo closed the San Francisco location and moved to their current one on Middlefield Road in Redwood City. For almost two years, catering, pick-up and delivery orders kept the business running while they completed renovations in the cafe portion of the space.

“It’s so important for us to have a place for people to come and see and smell the food we make,” Marianne says. It’s why she insisted on opening a cafe, rather than just relying on catering and deliveries.
Marianne was very intentional with the shop’s design, and her father’s Argentinian heritage is evident in the mementos and ephemera that fill the bright and welcoming dining area. “I wanted it to feel really homey and that’s why we added all the wood wainscotting,” she explains. The space also features an antique map of Argentina and photos of gaucho festivals celebrating the Argentinian cowboys by San Jose photographer Nick Price. Marianne’s most precious piece of memorabilia is her parents’ original business permit that hangs on the wall.

After college and working in the corporate sphere, Marianne decided to pursue a career in the culinary field. She spent several years in Paris, first at Le Cordon Bleu and then at bakeries around the city. Spending time overseas reminded her that food is always more enjoyable when shared with others. “In France, food is connection,” she declares.


Though she got the idea for turning empanadas into a business in 2010, it wasn’t until 2017 that Marianne opened her first cafe. “Empanadas are the perfect food: they’re handheld so they’re easy to eat, and the varieties of fillings are endless. You can have them for any meal, day or night, or as a snack,” says Marianne.

This handy meal cloaked in pastry, or empanar in Spanish, originated in Portugal and Spain’s Galicia region in the 1500s. Like many other foods from this part of Europe, it made its way to South America. Marianne’s version is rooted in Argentina but her fillings reflect her life’s journey and those she is closest to. “Each filling is either a person, place or memory I have,” she shares.

The dough for these tasty half-moons is made with either butter or rendered beef fat and is light and tender while still being sturdy enough to hold savory and sweet fillings. El Sur’s savory Traditional is filled with hand-cut beef, onion, oregano, pimentón, olives and egg, and it represents Marianne’s Argentinian roots. The Pollo Saltado with chicken, onion, serrano peppers, olives and egg is inspired by her mom’s Peruvian heritage.

The Parisien is filled with French ham, prosciutto, green onion, cheese and chives, paying homage to the jambon-beurre sandwich that is found all over Paris. El Sur also offers empanadas with vegetarian fillings and the sweet Manzana, stuffed with braised apples.

Empanadas are ubiquitous in South America, Rodrigo explains. “There’s an empanada shop on every street corner in Buenos Aires and people have them delivered to their homes like we order pizza.”

Feeding families with busy households is a priority for Marianne. “Being a kid in the ‘80s in Menlo Park was magical,” she says, recalling fond memories of playing in San Francisquito Creek, getting soft serve at Fosters Freeze and enjoying deli sandwiches at Luttiken’s on the Alameda. Her kids, now grown, frequent the cafe and help out when they can. Her parents still live in Menlo Park and visit almost daily. They marvel at how the old grocery store has changed and love to chat with the customers. “I have such a deep respect for my parents, for their grit and determination to make a life for all of us here,” Marianne says fondly. “I owe everything to them.”

flavor filled – elsursf.com

Star Power

Words by Johanna Harlow

It takes five minutes for Anthony Secviar, chef and co-owner of Protégé, to describe the meticulous process behind the Michelin-starred restaurant’s beloved brick chicken. It starts with simmering Koshihikari rice in saffron stock, and cooking shallots and garlic for four hours to create the piperade sauce that forms the dish’s base. Then there’s the process of deboning the Cornish game hen, brushing it with a roasted garlic puree with Aleppo pepper, olive oil and lemon zest, and aging it for three to seven days to concentrate flavors. That’s followed by sautéing the meat on a stainless steel press for crispy skin, then baking in the oven. “Then we take a dark chicken stock that we roast overnight, reduced down for about 14 hours, and finish that with a French-inspired Grenobloise so you bring some acidity as well as some unctuous, rich umami to the chicken sauce,” Anthony describes. “We grill some romaine ribs, which kind of brings in some texture and a little bit of a palate refresher.” The result is a masterful paella-esque dish with a California twist. “Point being, there’s a ton of work that goes into what’s ultimately chicken and rice,” Anthony concludes when he finally comes up for air.

Though Protégé’s dishes change with the seasons, this painstakingly prepared poultry has been on the menu since day one—now nearly seven years ago. “It’s the most common and comfortable and soul-driven flavor profile on the planet,” Anthony explains. “We wanted to be a neighborhood restaurant—and I think a neighborhood restaurant needs a great chicken dish.”

ABOVE: Dennis Kelly (left) and Anthony Secviar (right) are the co-owners of Protégé.

Despite achieving a Michelin star just nine months after opening, Anthony emphasizes its concept as “casual” several times. “Refined, elegant, but still casual and comfortable,” he elaborates. “Without all the hoopla.” At Protégé, the intention isn’t to treat food like an abstract. It’s about familiar dishes done divinely. “Most things you should recognize and have an idea of, ‘Am I going to like that?’”

Take the familiar pear and goat cheese salad. “We’re creating dishes that people have a reference to and they’re comfortable with, but maybe there’s some sort of element in there that either surprises or sets the new standard for what that pear and goat cheese salad should be,” says Anthony. “So when you go and see it on another menu, you ultimately think of Protégé.” In this particular instance, Anthony and his chef de cuisine Jeremy Wayne came up with a pear tartlet: shingled fruit atop a pressed layer of Cambozola blue cheese on a buttery shell with walnut praline filling. “There’s no smoke and mirrors,” Anthony says. “It’s all based on product, a balancing of flavors and techniques.”

When Anthony and co-owner Dennis Kelly originally sat down to brainstorm the concept for Protégé, their goal was building it to last. “There’s a lot of flash-in-the-pans,” Anthony reflects. “There are restaurants you go to that people rave about the service, or the food, or the ambiance, but you rarely get all three … We tried to create Protégé where all three of those things were very even-keeled, where none of them outshined each other.” Dennis also ensures a standout beverage program, lending his expertise as the 191st person in the world to earn a master sommelier diploma.

As for ambiance, the two settled on a woodsy and warm interior with rich walnut accents and a patio bordered with planters of young redwood trees. The a la carte lounge is anchored by a backlit bar for that neighborly feel, while the prix fixe dining room displays a large image of a foggy forest. “It’s a timeless affair,” Anthony says.

The staff is equally inviting and knowledgeable on any detail you care to ask about—from the artist behind the knotted rope installation that separates the lounge from the tasting room (San Francisco local Windy Chien) to that one ingredient you can’t quite pinpoint in a sauce. “No egos. It’s very collaborative,” Anthony asserts.


If Anthony wanted to boast, he certainly could. He’s honed his craft in a series of prestigious three-star kitchens. In Spain, he worked at Akelaré (“very formula-driven, almost like chemistry” with a “militaristic style of kitchen”), then world-famous El Bulli (“incredibly meticulous … the most technical cuisine and kitchen on the planet”). His next job brought him to the Bay Area. “French Laundry reset everything … I learned how to cook again,” he says, describing the new nine-course tasting menu the team developed every day. “Very intellectual … challenging for the sake of being challenging.” Later, Anthony became the chef de cuisine at Addison by William Bradley. “Everything for William is flavor and that was when I think it started to click,” Anthony says. “He taught me how to taste … The importance of when you put something down, you have to think of someone bringing it back up into their mouth.”

Just as readily, Anthony discusses his unassuming origins. “I got into cooking because I love to eat,” he says simply, recalling the cooking shows he used to watch by Julia Child, Emeril Lagasse and Graham Kerr, The Galloping Gourmet. He credits his mom for nudging him towards a culinary career. “At the time, I was a jock kid, so I didn’t think it was macho enough,” he says with a chuckle.

For those looking to see Anthony and the Protégé team flex their culinary muscles, opt for the seven-course tasting menu. Each dish delights, from the delicately sweet and tender Wolfe Ranch quail brightened by pomegranate sauce and shallot jam to the silky, umami-rich nine-layer lasagna bolstered by the tang of aged parmesan and the earthiness of truffle. Even the freshly-baked sourdough is elevated by a frilly, gravity-defying butter sculpture.


Recent diners ended their meal on a playful note. As they stabbed the cherry atop their chocolate gâteau, the tines of their fork sank through like butter. On further investigation, they found this fruit to be a ruse—a replica composed of cherry mousse and a chocolate stem.

As Anthony prepares to return to the kitchen, one question remains: Are the folks at Protégé hungry for a second star? Anthony cracks a smile. “Two would be an absolute nightmare for us … We’re incredibly happy, humbled and proud to have one.”

michelin moves – protegepaloalto.com

Carmel Explored

Words by Sharon McDonnell

Carmel-by-the-Sea has always been noticed. A century ago, it drew the attention of poets Robinson Jeffers and George Sterling (who dubbed San Francisco the “cool grey city of love”), authors Jack London and Sinclair Lewis, photographer Ansel Adams and an abundance of other artists. It caught the eye of Brad Pitt, who bought the castle-like Seaward House in 2022 for $40 million. Monaco billionaire Patrice Pastor spent the past decade buying $100 million of property in and near the town, including Frank Lloyd Wright’s only oceanfront home, the Clinton Walker House.

Famed for its storybook-style cottages, dozens of galleries and manicured beauty, the chic former bohemian art colony just experienced its biggest hotel renaissance in the past two years, with several new hotels and some major lodging facelifts, plus six new restaurants, including Michelin-starred Chez Noir. But well-known Carmel still has treasures yet to be discovered.

“I’m courtyard-crazy,” says Gael Gallagher of Carmel Walks, who enjoys pointing out “beauty bursts” on our walking tour, from the town’s 41 charming courtyards and hidden passageways to Spanish-style tiles that lend pops of color and pattern. The oldest, Der Ling Lane, is a wood-arched, cobblestoned and brick-paved alley and courtyard we entered from Ocean Avenue, the town’s main street that’s lined with galleries and shops. It’s home to the first of the town’s 18 wine-tasting rooms, Galante Vineyards. It’s also the only one whose owner’s great-grandfather, James Devendorf, co-founded Carmel-by-the-Sea. Jack Galante makes mostly Bordeaux-style red blends at his winery. The wine labels feature nuggets of cowboy philosophy, and the rug in its tiny tasting room depicts cowboys holding lassoes aloft, reflecting his childhood on a ranch in the Carmel Valley. Jack also leads wine trips around the world, from fishing trips to Alaska to jaunts to Sardinia and Corsica to adventure weekends in Montana.


The lane is also home to Xocolatl Garden, a shop for single-origin chocolate bars from 66 countries, with daily tasting of four samples (perhaps a jerk-seasoned 70% dark chocolate from Jamaica or the shop’s own Choquiero brand, spiced with chipotle, cayenne and coconut sugar), for just $5.

In contrast, Dawn’s Dream Winery is known mostly for chardonnay and pinot noir from the Santa Lucia Highlands and for its philanthropy. “My dream was to tie this brand to nonprofits to keep women and children reaching for the stars,” says Dawn Galante, Jack’s wife, who partners with a local nonprofit each year, like a women’s shelter or Jacob’s Heart for children with cancer, and also donates money and wine to nonprofits. “I grew up with a single mother in Detroit who was always giving back.” Another winery, Caraccioli Cellars, has gold medals to show for its sparkling methode champenoise wines.

Nicolas Cocina de Herencia, the grandest-looking new restaurant that opened in 2023, offers high-end Mexican food with creative twists amid a dozen chandeliers in a cavernous 5,000-square-foot space. I was enchanted by its lamb chile relleno, a pepper filled with apples, pears, raisins and ground lamb, in a sauce composed of white chocolate, pomegranate arils, macadamia nuts and spices—apparently an inspired riff on my all-time favorite Mexican dish, chiles en nogada, a specialty of Puebla state.

Another surprise: superb Korean food at Jeju Kitchen, which opened in 2024. My jajangmyeon, chewy buckwheat noodles with fermented black bean sauce, sliced zucchini, diced carrots and pork belly, were sheer delight. “Korean kids grew up with this the way American kids do with mac and cheese,” notes owner Ashley Wolff, who uses her Korean mother’s recipes. Her take on the beloved American comfort food adds kimchi and scallions. “The acidic taste cuts into the cheese and cream (and adds a satisfying crunch),” she adds.

Both restaurants are in Carmel Plaza, a shopping center packed with eateries. Toro, opened in late 2020, offers top-quality sushi, including specialty rolls lightly-seared to meld the flavors and others topped by unagi (eel) sauce as well as sake cocktails, flights and a global wine list (thanks to its sommelier co-owner) that I didn’t expect.

Called the town’s “grande dame,” La Playa Hotel, the 1905 mansion of chocolate heiress Angela Ghirardelli and her painter husband, emerged from a stylish $20 million refresh of all 75 rooms and public areas in late 2023. The luxury Spanish Revival-style lodging features an outdoor pool, beautiful gardens, rooms with “barmoires” (an armoire stocked with ingredients and recipes for craft cocktail-making) plus ocean, garden or village views and a Champagne buffet breakfast. It also boasts the best deal in pricy Carmel-by-the-Sea: at Bud’s Bar cocktails cost only a dime during a daily 10-minute time slot, chosen at whim by the bartender.


A classic since opening in 1952, the whitewashed Tally Ho Inn charms with wall tapestries, gas fireplaces and suites with private decks that offer ocean views, just off Ocean Avenue. I sipped wine next to the outdoor fireplace in the small public patio, which also has a Pacific view. Newcomer Stilwell Hotel, a boutique hotel opened in May 2024, features two levels of patios with fire pits, waterfall features and a pizza oven, plus 42 guest rooms in serene neutrals with marble baths.

I made a beeline to Tor House, poet Robinson Jeffers’ home, a small stone cottage and a four-story stone tower in a jaw-dropping setting on Carmel Point, right above the ocean. Jeffers and his wife came here because friends compared the rugged coastal scenery to the cliffs of Cornwall, England. He constructed the cottage with a contractor, but built the tower himself. Inspired by those in rural Ireland, he hauled over boulders from Carmel Beach. A docent recited his poems on my tour, many inspired by the region’s idyllic nature. The poet lived in the home from 1919 to his death in 1962, and packed it with treasures, from an ancient Roman statue of a boy on a dolphin to a carved stone head from Cambodia.

“Carmel is not so much an art colony as it is a work of art,” wrote historian Carey McWilliams back in 1930. But far from being preserved in amber, it’s a living artwork still in the making, one whose beauty only grows with time.

poet’s paradise – carmelcalifornia.com

Q&A: Lisa Sten

The CEO of Mountain View’s Harrell Design + Build talks about her top travel treasures, the motto that keeps her motivated and the laundry room feature you didn’t know you needed.

What’s most rewarding about working in the design, build and home remodeling field?
Seeing how the smallest tweaks and clever space planning can have the biggest impact on how one lives in a home.

What are some highlights from your early career?
My mom and I had a design studio together for 12 years prior to my move to California in 2000. We had the pleasure of working with Target Corporation, and worked with the “starchitect” Michael Graves on the restoration of the Washington Monument in D.C.

Is there a movie you can watch over and over?
The Way. Although the movie is about the Camino de Santiago, the movie partly inspired my goal to walk the entire Via Francigena in Italy. This is another pilgrimage walk from Canterbury to the Vatican. I’ve completed 60 miles of it, north of Rome.

Do you have a personal motto?
Produce or die! A friend’s father told her and her seven siblings this every morning. I find it hilarious, yet meaningful, but I have yet to say this out loud at work!

What’s a unique feature you’ve added to a home?
Adding a jetted laundry sink for gentle washing is great!

What’s one thing you’ve brought back from a trip abroad?
One? I love finding local art and bringing it home. Best souvenirs ever.

Is there something people are surprised to learn about you?
As a kid, I was in a Mr. Bubble commercial, and a commercial with John Denver. I also skied with Billy Kidd for a Hart Skis ad.

Have you always been in this line of work?
My first post-college “career” was in film production: I worked with the author/playwright David Mamet and William H. Macy as well as on a number of national commercials.

How did you get into Chinese calligraphy?
My daughter took Mandarin lessons for seven years, and the only adult class held at that same time was Chinese Calligraphy. I have always been fascinated with font design, and the characters are intriguing as a visual art form. It is meditative and calming—and learning the brush techniques and control takes years of practice.

What’s your biggest home-related pet peeve?
Poor consideration for sight lines. (Can we not see the toilet first thing, please?) And not treating the ceiling well.

What’s the best part of your weekend routine?
Not making plans! I hesitate to make weekend plans as my week is fairly structured. It’s my “unstructured play time.”

What do you collect?
Many things, but the oddest of them are probably my oil can collection from the London Eastern Railway and my plumb bob collection!

Landmark: San Francisquito Creek

Words by Margaret Koenig

Believe it or not, the last free-flowing urban creek in the southern Peninsula might be right in your backyard. If you follow San Francisquito Creek from its mouth in the eastern Santa Cruz mountains to where it flows into the San Francisco Bay, your trek would take you through Portola Valley, Woodside, Palo Alto, East Palo Alto and Menlo Park, through nature preserves and residential neighborhoods alike. With an estimated length of 12.5 miles, the creek is the largest on the western margin of the San Francisco Bay and has no fewer than 22 tributaries. Though it’s little more than a dry creek bed during the summer, San Francisquito roars back to life in the rainy season.

Long before the San Francisquito was “discovered” by Spaniards in 1769, the area was home to the indigenous Ohlone population for roughly 15,000 years. The Lamchin tribe, a branch of the Ohlone, once lived along its banks, though this changed with the arrival of a Spanish exploration party led by Don Gaspar de Portolá in 1769. Portolá’s party camped alongside the creek for five nights, and in the period of Spanish colonialism that followed, the San Francisquito came to mark the territorial divide between the missions of San Francisco and Santa Clara. Today, the creek still serves as a geographical border, separating Palo Alto from East Palo Alto and Menlo Park, along with their respective counties of Santa Clara and San Mateo. After disastrous flooding in 1998 damaged more than 1,700 properties, the San Francisquito Creek Joint Powers Authority was formed to oversee the waterway, which is home to California Central Coast steelhead trout, a threatened species. Try to catch a glimpse of them via online images from the city of Palo Alto’s creek monitor cameras, or in-person by strolling across one of its pedestrian bridges, like the one at El Palo Alto Park.

Diary of a Dog: Aki

I’m so pleased to meet you! I’m Aki, a friendly mutt sporting white freckled “socks” and a white-tipped tail. Let me tell you about my family. Mike and Mia’s three girls had been begging for a dog, so they decided to check out some local shelters. Their first stop was Pets In Need in Palo Alto. I was only five months old, but I knew right away that these were my people. After spending a little time together, I made my intentions clear by resting my head on each of their laps. They understood that I had chosen them, so they took me home to San Mateo. Mike and Mia quickly realized that I didn’t like my shelter name of Autumn. (Go ahead, try calling me Autumn. I’ll act like I don’t even hear you.) They renamed me Aki, which means autumn in Japanese, and now I happily come when they call. Another thing about me is that I look out for my friends. At the park, I protect my little buddy, a Jack Russell terrier, from any aggressive advances. I play hide and seek with the girls and cover them in affectionate, slobbery kisses. My family describes me as fiercely intelligent, playful and a tiny bit mischievous. They have to make sure I don’t see where they hide my treats, because I will remember that location forever and do my best to get at them when nobody’s looking.

Calling All Dogs: If you've got quirky habits or a funny tale (or tail) to share, email your story to hello@punchmonthly.com for a chance to share a page from your Diary of a Dog in PUNCH.

Perfect Shot: Sea and Sky

This mesmerizing moment was captured by photographer Tony Corso off Linda Mar Beach during the unprecedented number of humpback whale sightings around Pacifica from July through September. The surge, caused by larger-than-usual schools of anchovies, drew diving birds and lunging whales alike that feasted on the tiny silver fish. “On this particular morning, the fog was out in full force, creating a surreal backdrop,” Tony describes. “With the rising sun at my back breaking through the morning clouds, the final result was breathtaking.”

@TonyCorsoImages / tonycorsoimages.com

Calling all Shutterbugs: If you’ve captured a unique perspective of the Peninsula, we’d love to see your Perfect Shot. Email us at hello@punchmonthly.com to be considered for publication.

Buzzy Mazra

Words by Elaine Wu

For brothers Saif and Jordan Makableh, the success of Mazra, their wildly popular fast-casual Mediterranean restaurant, has been quite the surprise. After being ranked No. 2 on Yelp’s Top 100 Places to Eat in the U.S. in 2021, less than a year after opening, the duo had no idea what they were in for. “We were panicking because we were so busy,” Saif remembers. “The line would wrap around the building and we were still getting good reviews!” Despite Mazra’s popularity, he still saw room for improvement. “We thought our chances of surviving were low,” Saif admitted.

But after four years and a move to a larger space in Redwood City earlier this year—the original San Bruno location is undergoing major renovations and set to reopen in 2025—Mazra is going stronger than ever. “I’m always telling Jordan that I can’t believe our success,” Saif says. “We’re at about 80 percent of where I want our food to be. You always want things to be better.”

Mazra got its start after Jordan and Saif’s father decided to close his small neighborhood grocery store in San Bruno. Saif convinced his dad to let him try opening a restaurant in the space. As a young adult, he had spent three years in Australia working for an uncle and Saif missed the barbecue culture there. “They barbecue a lot in Australia and you learn a lot about it,” he shares. “We use the charcoal grill at the restaurant because the char is something you can’t get from a gas grill. I hate when you can’t taste the char. It’s so simple and so good.”

Saif also loved how food from the Levant region of the Middle East, which includes Lebanon, Jordan and Iran, was more prevalent in Australia than it is in the Bay Area, thanks to the large Lebanese population. “I was used to Middle Eastern eateries being little falafel shops here in the States,” he says. “But over there, Middle Eastern restaurants are about quality food served in a vibrant yet casual setting. Everything, from the food to the décor, was more vibrant. I thought people would enjoy that in the Bay Area as well.”

As a self-taught cook who has always loved to eat, Saif has manned Mazra’s kitchen from day one, developing, researching and, to this day, tinkering with the most finite details of a dish to make it better. “Our obsession is with the simplest things,” he says. “It’s about how you treat every ingredient in the process of making it. With so many people waiting in line, I can’t just give them tabbouleh that was made hours ago. I just can’t. We will throw things away before we serve it to a customer if it’s not good enough.”

Younger brother Jordan enjoys interacting with customers and making sure they take care of everyone who walks through the door. “For me, my passion is with the front of the house,” he says. “My brother and I like to make sure that our customers are comfortable. It’s so much more than just breaking bread together but making sure everyone’s having a good time.”

To get their hands on popular dishes—like Mazra’s famous six-hour lamb shank with roasted pepper sauce, the brined garlic-and-herb rotisserie chicken and the whole roasted heirloom cauliflower coated in lemon and tahini dressing—customers are willing to stand in a line that extends down the block during peak dinner hours on most nights. But their patience doesn’t go unrewarded. “We have to set you up for success as a customer,” Saif declares. “Garlic sauce and chili sauce doesn’t need to be asked for. It comes with your food here. And for to-go orders, we never serve our main dishes in a three-compartment box. Our salads are packaged separately so the steam from the meat doesn’t affect the salad. We used to take the food home as if we were a customer and open it up to test how things tasted and looked.”

Meticulously crafted food and welcoming vibes have become a winning combination for Mazra. But throughout their journey, the brothers remain grateful for all the success they’ve enjoyed. “Everything about this is love,” Jordan says proudly. “Love for the food, love for the staff, love for the customers. Every single aspect of this place, I absolutely love.”

This popular side dish at Mazra serves as a great palate cleanser between bites of your favorite meats and seafood. Serves four.

ARABIC SALAD

Ingredients
4 cucumbers
3 tomatoes
½ red onion
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 
juice of 1-2 lemons
salt

+ Dice the unpeeled cucumbers into bite-size pieces. To keep them crispy and fresh, refrigerate them until just before serving.
+ Dice the tomatoes and keep them at room temperature for maximum flavor and texture.
+ Dice the red onion into small, uniform pieces.
+ In a large bowl, combine the diced cucumbers, tomatoes and onions. Drizzle them with olive oil and lemon juice to taste. Add salt to taste and gently toss the ingredients until evenly coated.
+ Serve salad immediately. Garnish with fresh herbs like parsley or mint for added color and aroma.

delicious details – eatmazra.com

Crushing It

Words by Johanna Harlow

In small-town San Carlos, tucked between auto repair shops, expect the unexpected. On Industrial Road, in a pair of converted warehouses, you’ll find Domenico Winery and Osteria, an Italian restaurant, winery and event venue rolled into one. “This was not the way it looks today,” chuckles owner Dominick Chirichillo, who runs the business alongside his wife Gloria. “It was just a big, yellow, ugly building.” But while others underestimated the property, Dominick saw a space large enough to stretch his imagination and realize his big dreams. Today, the store front beckons passersby with an inviting stonework façade and a sprawling patio where patrons sit and sip petite sirah.

“Let the grapes express themselves,” Dominick advises from the back room as he twists the spigot on a 3,400-gallon stainless steel tank, releasing a stream of beautiful burgundy. He has been around wine his entire life thanks to his beloved Nonno. His grandfather Domenico Giovinazzo used to make wine in the basement of his New York home back in the 1950s. Dominick fondly recalls squabbling with his cousins over who would help Nonno with the press. “Every Sunday, we would spend at my grandparents—all the cousins and uncles and aunts,” Dominick recalls, describing the big family dinners. “My grandfather would have his gallon of wine. He’d pour and the kids would have wine in their soda.”

Cover Photo and Above Photo Courtesy of: Johanna Harlow

As Dominick gives a tour, the restaurant, event venue and winemaking spaces feel like their own distinct worlds. The industrial-chic event venue is spruced up with funky light fixtures and lined with oak barrels stacked four high. The Osteria charms diners with hanging plants and lights, while a sculpture of Bacchus, the Roman god of wine, watches over guests. Meanwhile, the winemaking warehouse in the back brims with gleaming industrial-grade equipment.

Dominick passes his great-nephew Max, busy crushing three Jacuzzi-sized tubs of grapes with a stainless-steel punch down. “He will be the fifth generation of winemakers in our family,” Dominick says, adding that his oldest son and wife Gloria run the catering side of the business, while his younger son is considering joining the financial side. Gloria has overseen everything from designing wine labels to accounting and interior design. “It can be challenging and rewarding,” says Dominick of working with family. “You run the emotional gamut… It’s no different than any other family.” Adding, “We love each other a lot, and I guess that’s the glue that keeps us going.”

Photo Courtesy of: Paulette Phlipot

It’s hard to imagine that such a massive operation started with just two barrels of wine back in the ‘80s. “I needed something to take the worry that I was going through in my business, set it aside and have some fun,” Dominick reflects, explaining that in his youth, he pursued a career in real estate. That first batch took him six hours to make by hand. “The wine came out well,” he smiles.

Two barrels became 20. Then 60. Soon, Dominick’s basement was practically buried with barrels and he could barely wedge himself between the rows. Ready to take things to the next level, Dominick and his wife Gloria progressed to a 3,000-square-foot space in New Jersey, which let them reach nearly 300 barrels. The couple also founded The Bacchus School of Wine, which they expanded to five locations across the state before they moved to the Bay Area. Dominick’s real estate background helped him hunt down their current warehouse as well as purchase land in Amador County for vineyards.

Photo Courtesy of: Paulette Phlipot

The land’s granite and limestone give the wine a minerality and vibrancy in flavor, Dominick explains. “Grapes and limestone is a real nice story.” After initially planting five acres of syrah and three of primitivo, Dominick continues to expand with other Cal-Italia varietals including aglianico, Montepulciano, nero d’Avola and cabernet sauvignon. “We’re planting 14 more acres of vineyards over the next three years,” he says, which will include sangiovese, nebbiolo, Fiano di Avellino, barbera and others. His favorite to drink? “I would say the wine in my glass!” Domenick jokes, before adding he’s partial to primitivo. It’s the Italian zinfandel, with a velvety bouquet of blackberry and plum and a subtle spiciness that hits at the back of the throat.

To sip and savor, pair food with wine over at the Osteria. This latest addition was designed by Gloria with Chef Gary DiDominick presiding over the kitchen. (“We didn’t hire him for his name,” Dominick laughs). With obvious care taken to acquire quality ingredients, expect excellence in everything from the focaccia studded with tangy tomatoes to the rigatoni with generous chunks of housemade fennel sausage cloaked in a creamy vodka sauce. The flickering flames of a stone hearth pizza oven promise great pies, from the Regina (topped with creamy dollops of burrata, big basil leaves and grape tomatoes) to Dom’s Godfather (calabrese salami and peppadew peppers drizzled in Calabrian chili oil and local honey). If you want a taste of Dominick’s childhood home in Jersey, go topsy-turvy with the Boardwalk Pizza that tucks the cheese beneath the sauce.

Photo Courtesy of: Johanna Harlow

There are more ways to experience Domenico. For team-building seminars, people are split into “winery” teams and everyone competes to design the best label, come up with a marketing plan for their fictitious business and blend wine from several varietals in beakers. “Then everybody goes home with a bottle, of course,” Dominick winks.

They also host Grapes and Giggles, a monthly comedy night, as well as private events—a recent one was his own son’s wedding. “We pretty much run the gamut,” Dominick says, adding that sometimes the festivities even include fire dancers and aerialists. What’s more, people who belong to the Bacchus Winemaking Club can learn the entire winemaking process with Dominick from de-stemming, crushing and pressing grapes to racking and bottling.

While it sounds like more than enough to keep him busy, Dominick is also opening a second tasting room/event venue in the Amador area. When commended for his chutzpah, Domenico’s owner quotes Field of Dreams: “If you build it, they will come!” Wine and big vision are two things Dominick will never have in short supply.

vine life – domenicowinery.com

Heirloom Allure

Words by Sheryl Nonnenberg

The old adage “beauty is in the eyes of the beholder” can apply to just about anything, from art to cars, but anyone who has inherited jewelry knows it to be especially true. Perhaps you love the timeless quality of Grandma’s pearl necklace but will you ever wear that 1970s-era emerald and diamond dinner ring? Maybe not.

Fortunately, there are alternatives to just relegating those items to the back of the drawer. Some jewelry stores specialize in vintage and estate pieces and can guide customers through the process of consigning or refurbishing their unwanted treasures. On the Peninsula, two of the most established and reputable firms, Gleim the Jeweler and Stephen Silver Fine Jewelry, are happy to help.

Gleim the Jeweler is a family-owned firm founded in 1931 with locations in Palo Alto and Los Altos. It has been a mainstay at Stanford Shopping Center since the mall first opened in 1956. The store has always dealt in vintage and antique jewelry, which now accounts for about 50 percent of its business.

Georgie Gleim, owner and president, shares that her grandfather, Frederick Wilhelm Gleim, borrowed $500 in order to start the business. “I have the original logbooks from that time,” says Georgie, “and on his first day, he did not take in a penny.”

Cover Photo and Above Photo Courtesy of: Onysko

Despite its slow start, the store became successful and by the time Georgie was thinking of a career, joining the family firm seemed like the best course of action. “I got to know people in the industry and it was fun,” she explains. At the time, the best way to learn was on the job, but she also obtained a gemology degree from the Gemologist Institute of America. She now holds a certified gemologist title from the American Gem Society that she renews each year.

When a customer decides to clear out their jewelry box, unwanted pieces can be brought to Georgie to examine. The free service offers expert advice about consigning the jewelry for sale or remodeling into something that better fits the owner’s taste. (This is not the same as appraisal for insurance purposes, which entails a fee and a printed document.) If it definitely won’t be worn again, Georgie can measure gemstones, estimate their weight and quality and give an idea of how much it might bring in resale. Gleim is willing to take on items long-term. “Jewelry doesn’t sell quickly,” Georgie says, “but if it’s a fine, beautiful gem, it will find a home someplace.”

However, if items are “poorly made, badly worn or unattractive,” you might be out of luck. Having seen so much estate jewelry over the years, Georgie can educate clients about the pieces they own. “Oftentimes, people will bring something in with the idea of taking it apart but I will tell them, ‘Don’t do it!’ because it is too nice of an antique.”

Photography Courtesy of: Onysko

With the price of gold so high, some customers might just want to have their items melted down, but Georgie takes a firm stance in these cases. “If it is beautiful and well-crafted, I cannot bear to scrap it,” she says. “Lots of beautiful things have been melted because people have taken jewelry to someone who was not educated.”

An example of fine vintage jewelry that eventually found a good home is an exquisite tourmaline piece that a client brought in. “It was from mines discovered in the 1980s,” says Georgie. The piece needed some restoration work and was then placed on consignment for almost two years before finding an appreciative new owner. “It was sold to a woman who loves beautiful gems,” she recalls.

Georgie says that, like most people she knows in the jewelry business, she does it because she really enjoys it. “You deal with beautiful things and often there is a history to it,” she explains, adding, “The fun part about the business is that you never know what is coming through the front door.”
Stephen Silver Fine Jewelry began as an estate jewelry firm in 1980 and is also family-owned and -run. They have two locations, a boutique in Menlo Park and a private salon in Redwood City. Stephen explains why vintage and antique jewelry make up the cornerstone of the business.

“My father fell in love with estate jewelry early in his career, recognizing the superior quality and unique character these pieces offer—qualities that can be rare in the contemporary fine jewelry landscape,” Stephen says. His company obtains vintage jewelry from individuals, estates and a “global network of suppliers, international trade shows and private clientele.”

Photography Courtesy of: Gleim the Jeweler

Like Gleim, Stephen Silver offers complimentary evaluations and redesign consultations. When asked about the allure that makes vintage pieces so sought-after, Stephen has a ready answer. “Vintage jewelry collectors want to purchase and wear a piece of history,” he says. “They love a good story and the more you can tell them about a piece’s provenance, stylistic context and material qualities, the more they appreciate it. These pieces were made to last, often painstakingly fabricated by master goldsmiths using heritage techniques passed down through the generations.”

Stephen says that there is a special appeal to acquiring this type of jewelry. “Collecting vintage and estate jewelry is like embarking on a treasure hunt. Each piece is a time capsule waiting to be opened and understood.”

Heirloom Eras

Before collecting estate jewelry, you’ll want to familiarize yourself with the defining characteristics of different styles. While every era has its devotees—from Georgian and Edwardian to mid-century modern—the most popular periods include Victorian, Art Nouveau and Art Deco. Here is a cheat sheet, with information from Stephen Silver Fine Jewelry. 
Victorian jewelry is known for its rich ornamentation and romantic symbolism, often featuring lockets, charms, signet rings, garnets, crosses and mourning jewelry, crafted in yellow or rose gold. Despite the era’s cultural conservatism, these 19th-century pieces were often whimsical and deeply personal.
Art Nouveau jewelry, from the early part of the 20th century, introduced flowing forms, whiplash swirls, elongated proportions and organic patterns. Chic jewelry makers like Lalique often used colored gemstones, pearls and enamel to bring designs to life.
Art Deco emerged in the 1920s and 1930s, using geometric forms, Egyptian revival motifs and Jazz Age opulence. Great houses like Cartier crafted bold pieces in platinum, often pairing diamonds, rubies, sapphires and emeralds with exotic materials like onyx. This era is known for wide, gem-paved bracelets and opera-length necklaces.

Gleim the Jeweler: gleimjewelers.com
Stephen Silver Fine Jewelry: shsilver.com

Living Large

Words by Sophia Markoulakis

When interior designer Amy Fischer was young, she learned to draw scaled bedroom floor plans from her engineer father. “I fell in love with interior design in third grade and never looked back,” she says of her lifelong passion. “I would draw these floor plans before moving my furniture around and always asked for design accents for my bedroom for birthdays and holidays.”

As the founder and principal designer of Spectrum Interior Design, Amy is now drawing scaled floor plans for her clients, whose projects average between 8,000 and 25,000 square feet. As the name suggests, her firm encompasses the full range of home design services. Silicon Valley, the land of high-end properties, is her niche. The full-service luxury estate design business isn’t for the faint of heart—conceptualizing, managing and implementing projects of this scale requires immense attention to detail and plenty of patience. It’s something that Amy’s worked toward her whole life. And now, after being in the industry for 27 years, the designer knows that being hyper-prepared is a valuable asset for busy clients. “I can cover progress on a 25,000-square-foot home in an hour-long meeting,” she says.

Cover Photo Courtesy of: Dreamside Design / Portrait Photo Courtesy of: Vivian Johnson

Amy’s 4,000-square-foot Mountain View headquarters functions as an open studio, a library of construction and finishing materials, and a home accents showroom for her bespoke offerings, which include seasonal decor services for her existing clients. Though most of her business is referral-based, Amy still looks for additional ways to make her services compelling, providing options for efficient decision-making that resonate with her clientele. “With the Silicon Valley mindset, these clients require facts and vetted variables instead of artistic concepts. During our meetings, I will hand-draw options and then provide pros and cons for each,” she explains.
The Los Altos native started her career working for a custom builder while earning her interior design degree. “I really pay tribute to working 15 years with that luxury custom home builder, because it was there that I learned the value of a talented team and collaborating with the architect and builder for the most successful outcome,” Amy says.

Photo Courtesy of: Dreamside Design

Those lessons helped launch Spectrum in 2012. “Having a team in place and looking at a project from the architectural and construction lens early on really streamlines the process,” Amy shares. “And with the mindset of this being completed as an interior design space, it creates a streamlined and better client experience.” For the majority of her design projects, she acts as the liaison advocate on behalf of the client and coordinates with the builder, architect and landscape designer.

Many of Amy’s clients work with her long after the dust has settled and they’ve moved in. She offers a la carte services such as holiday decorating (plus storing the items and keeping an inventory) and has even decorated a yacht or two. “We have clients who need consulting on large-scale events at their homes and we coordinate with event planners,” she says. “We build strong relationships with clients over four years and we hate to say goodbye, so whatever helps to support their lifestyle from the perspective of design, we do.”

Photo Courtesy of: Dreamside Design

Since the pandemic, Amy notes that her clients are looking to incorporate the elevated experiences that they encounter during their travels into their houses. She finds that local executives tend to work very hard and want their homes to be a refuge. “They want the spa experience at home with things like an infra-red dry sauna, steam baths and cold plunges,” Amy says, adding that pretty much every project she’s currently working on includes a cold plunge.

Other trends Amy’s seeing? Technologically enhanced lighting for wine displays and cellars, home theaters with fiber optic ceilings mimicking a starry night sky, two laundry rooms and multiple outdoor dining rooms for specific types of entertaining.

Photography Courtesy of: Vivian Johnson

Though she’s savvy about including trending experiences, Amy’s own design aesthetic trends toward the timeless and is focused on implementing what the client finds beautiful and calming. “Our clients have an appreciation for beauty and are looking for opportunities to experience it in the home,” she stresses.

When Amy isn’t working on other people’s houses, she enjoys spending time on the coast with her husband and two dogs. She also enjoys painting and detailed still-life drawings. Her two children, both in college in Southern California, have helped with the business, and her husband, a project manager in the construction industry, was instrumental in launching Spectrum’s home accessories and seasonal decor division.

As a busy entrepreneur herself, Amy understands her clients. “The Silicon Valley growth mindset is inherent in what we do,” she says. “Tech’s innovation and the commitment to excellence is so rooted in the area and its culture, and is very specific to who we serve.”

estate plans – spectruminteriordesign.com

Landmark: Baylands Vignette

Words by Margaret Koenig

Ahundred feet above the marshes of Baylands Nature Preserve, Mary Lucking’s “Baylands Vignette” renders the landscape in aluminum and steel. The art installation, which was commissioned by the city of Palo Alto in 2021, sits on the bike bridge that spans Highway 101 and reaches over the preserve itself. In creating the piece, Mary sought to emphasize the minutiae of the natural setting, giving viewers a sense of the Baylands below. The three central aluminum sculptures are embellished with shapes that recall the marshes’ features: delicate insects, tall grass, ripples of water. Around the sculptures, steely blades of grass replicate the sensation of being nestled down in the marsh. “Up in the air and overlooking this beautiful view, you have one sort of experience,” Mary describes, “but it’s a different experience when you’re down in it, where you get to see all these little details … when you’re in the Baylands, the scale of what’s really interesting is so minute. So you’ll see the texture of the grasses, and the way the water rushes over the rocks, and the little tiny bugs and birds. My thought was to bring some of that up onto this resting point.” Deliberate in every aspect, Mary put careful thought into her unconventional choice of materials. “I wanted to make something that was really touchable, that you wanted to run your hands over,” she says of her handcrafted artwork. “One of the inspirations for the way it looks is old silver tableware from the 1900s, where it’s kind of smooth and worn, but it just feels good under your fingers.” The aluminum sculptures are thoughtfully shaped so viewers can sit comfortably on them while taking in the surrounding landscape.

The Beat on Your Eats: International Soups

Soup’s on! Brothy bowls from around the globe.

la fonda restaurant

Redwood City

La Fonda Restaurant—a cheery, approachable space decorated in splashy colors—is just the place to banish those winter blahs. To pep you up, try a spicy bowl of pozole. Made hearty with hominy, pork, chiles and onions, and garnished with thin slices of radish and cabbage, this soup is served alongside tostadas with sour cream and fresh cheese. While you’re there, you might as well splurge on the mole poblano—chicken cloaked in a rich and savory chile-chocolate sauce and accompanied by rice, beans and handmade tortillas. 820 Veterans Boulevard. Closed Sundays.

pho ha noi

Palo Alto

Vietnamese pho, like American comfort soups tomato and chicken noodle, is good for the soul. At Pho Ha Noi, beef pho is the favorite, arriving at your table studded with fresh green onion and cilantro. Blow the savory steam until it’s safe to start slurping up rice noodles and spoonfuls of fragrant broth. Consider pairing it with grilled pork served on a bed of vermicelli noodles or roasted kui fei chicken with sticky rice. The restaurant is walking distance from the Stanford Theatre so if you’re seeking another cozy indoor activity, pop over to watch classic films like Casablanca or Singing in the Rain in this 1920s-era movie palace. 185 University Avenue. Open daily.

max’s of burlingame

Burlingame

As the trademarked warning on Max’s menu notes, this decades-old restaurant is a bad place for a diet. Well-known for its ample (some might say over-the-top) portions, even the soups come in generous servings. Sharing the menu with deli classics—matzoh balls in chicken broth, clam chowder (only on Fridays) and Russian cabbage soup with diced brisket—is the très continental French onion soup. Served in a traditional crock and overflowing with gooey cheese, the rich broth concentrates the sweet and savory flavors of slow-cooked onions, just the thing to soothe away the chill of a winter’s day. 1250 Old Bayshore Highway. Open daily.

Soak and Sip

Words by Sophia Markoulakis 

Having grown up in Sacramento, it’s no surprise that I never met a pool I didn’t want to plunge into, feet first. But as I’ve gotten older, I’ve become allergic to pool water below 85 degrees. Seeking warm water to soothe my joints, I recently headed to Napa Valley’s Calistoga for hydrotherapy and relaxation. Often referred to as the “end of the road,” it’s the last Napa County city as you travel north on Highway 29.

While California’s first millionaire Sam Brannan put Calistoga on the map in the 1860s, prior settlers and indigenous people had long benefited from its geysers and underground springs. In 1905, a historic electric train carried affluent San Franciscans to Calistoga where they could soak in pools at properties like the Mountain View Hotel and Indian Springs Resort. Today, the electric train has been replaced by electric vehicles that transport people like me who are eager to enjoy both the area’s spas and its wine industry.

I checked into the Calistoga Springs Resort and immediately sensed that I had found a local gem, where hotel guests and locals alike make themselves at home at the property’s outdoor pool area. My spacious room with a sitting area and kitchenette had a separate bedroom and large bath. As soon as I unpacked, I donned my robe and headed out the door to explore the first of four pools. The largest and coolest of the bunch was a tepid 85 degrees, perfect for some laps. The other two pools were heated to temperatures between 90 and 100 degrees. The giant whirlpool, situated under a massive gazebo, registered a toasty 104. After a couple of hours submerged in various pools, I felt relaxed yet refreshed.

The hotel’s no-frills charm is a bonus for families and large groups. Outdoor barbecues and plenty of patio furniture provide the perfect setup for dining and socializing on-premises. People were friendly, and the large fire pit situated between the pools kept me and my fellow guests cozy late into the evening.

Tectonic activity is common in this part of Northern California as the earth lets off a little steam. A small jolt in the middle of the night woke me up, a reminder that the therapeutic waters I was enjoying wouldn’t be accessible without contractions between rock and steam, linked to past volcanic activity and a fault zone.

Most say that Calistoga wouldn’t be what it is today without Brannan commercializing the area’s most prized natural resource—mineral-rich water originating 4,000 feet below the earth’s surface near one of the world’s largest geothermal fields. Indian Springs Resort, which Brannan founded in 1862, has four geysers on its 17 acres. There’s a large one that releases steam behind the Olympic-size pool, and watching it mesmerized me while I floated the next morning away.

I fueled up on poke at the poolside grill and bar, The Chaise Lounge, and maintained my elevated internal temperature by sitting next to the large fire. With a full belly and an Aperol spritz, I was back in the pool until late in the day.

The resort’s spa utilizes water from the geysers and volcanic ash mined on-site in many of its treatments. I was intrigued by the Himalayan Salt Therapy Room, which is purported to help with respiratory conditions, and the Binaural Beats Therapy that delivers synchronized sound therapy and is said to aid sleep and harmony. Anyone booked for a treatment can experience the Buddha Pond, a refuge with palm trees and greenery surrounding the geyser-fed pond.

Other hotels that tap into local geysers include Dr. Wilkinson’s Backyard Resort and Mineral Springs, Calistoga Motor Lodge and Spa and Roman Spa Hot Springs Resort. Each property has its own retro vibe and exemplifies the laid-back Calistoga mineral pool experience.

Dine & Drink Downtown

Several decades of architecture are on view within six blocks of downtown along and around Lincoln Avenue. From the post-Gold Rush era Mission-style buildings to ornate Victorian structures and stately Neo-Classical commercial buildings, walking around offered me a lesson in California history.

Housed in many of these historic buildings are restaurants, wine tasting rooms and breweries. Dining and drinking options include Evangeline, Bricco Osteria and Calistoga Brewery. Sam’s Social Club, part of Indian Springs Resort, has a lively outdoor scene and an eclectic menu. Head to the Four Seasons Resort and Residences Napa Valley for amazing views of the surrounding vineyards. Top Chef alum and rising star Rogelio Garcia helms the property’s Michelin-star restaurant, Auro. If you can’t snag a reservation there, you’ll still be well fed at the property’s all-day restaurant, Truss. Pop into Calistoga Roastery or Sam’s General Store for morning coffee and a pastry.

I couldn’t leave without tasting some legendary Napa Valley wine and there are several in-town tasting rooms, each with its own flair. Maria Concetto Winery is known for RobinoVino, the robotic sommelier that assists with your tasting experiences. But the wine doesn’t need gimmicks. Owner Maria Reznikova is sourcing impeccable grapes and employs veteran winemakers like Patrick Saboe to craft delicious pinots and sparklings.

For an old-world experience, Romeo Vineyards’ tasting room is located at one of Calistoga’s oldest buildings—an 1880s-era carriage house. Tastings take place outdoors surrounded by greenery and roses. Other noteworthy tasting rooms include Picayune Vineyards, Calistoga Depot and Tank Garage Winery. Whether sipping or splashing, you’re sure to leave Calistoga feeling renewed.

Wine Country Winter 

The Christmas season is a special time in Calistoga. The downtown district gets into the spirit with its annual Lighted Tractor Parade the first weekend of December, plus a Christmas Faire and post-parade celebration in Pioneer Park. If you can’t make it out for the parade, celebrate the season with wine. Visit Calistoga hosts Winter in the Wineries Passport every year from early December through the first week of February. For $75, it covers free tastings at over two dozen Calistoga-area wineries and offers discounts at resorts and retailers.

take the plunge – visitcalistoga.com

Perfect Shot: Ice Caps

On a chilly day, photographer friends Robb Most and Bob Siegel were hiking on the Brook Trail in Pescadero Creek Park. Robb was captivated by a plucky little patch of mushrooms poking up from the trailside weeds and glittering with ice crystals. Using a tripod, he used his camera’s “focus shift” to achieve depth of field by taking many shots, each with a different focus, and then combined the images using software.

Calling all Shutterbugs: If you’ve captured a unique perspective of the Peninsula, we’d love to see your Perfect Shot. Email us at hello@punchmonthly.com to be considered for publication.

Pursuit of Beauty

Words by Andrea Gemmet

If you ask Alisa Eagleston-Cieslewicz to name her favorite painting at The Foster Museum in Palo Alto, there’s no hesitation. It’s Fall Colour, part of British artist Tony Foster’s series of watercolor works called Exploring Beauty. “I love how it captures the beautiful colors of fall. I think that autumn trees are exceptionally beautiful,” she says. When the California native was earning a master’s degree in art history at New York University, she was stunned by the sheer magnitude of the East Coast’s fall display. “One of my favorite things about living in New York was how Central Park became this amazing wash of different reds and oranges and yellows.”

The vibrant landscape, like many of Tony’s plein air watercolor paintings, includes a bit of bonus material at the bottom—in this case a color-coded row of detailed paintings of different leaves. “I think Tony captures that variety of color and the intensity of it so well,” says Alisa, who admits to being “one of those people” who love autumn. “I also really love the individual leaves at the bottom of the work, because I think the larger landscape at the top … captures the overall feel of the season and of the color. But those individual leaves show you the building blocks for that overall impression.”

Alisa, the new executive director of The Foster, has been drawn to art since she was a precocious preschooler fascinated by the expressive works of the Rodin Sculpture Garden at Stanford University. Alisa traces her career path back to Stanford’s Cantor Art Center, which she often explored with her alumni parents. Later, as a Stanford undergraduate, Alisa joined the museum crew and helped maintain that same collection of Rodin statues.

Fast-forward to internships at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York and the De Young Museum in San Francisco, a contract job with the SF Fine Arts Museums, an MBA from UC Berkeley. Most recently, Alisa served as the acting director of the SFO Museum, where she held various roles for 16 years, before landing at The Foster in October.

The peaceful vibe of The Foster Museum couldn’t be more different from San Francisco International, which has the nation’s only accredited museum in an airport. There, the luggage-toting visitors are more likely to be rushing past the museum exhibits than to pause in quiet reflection while waiting for their planes. From weather delays to construction work, “something is always happening at the airport,” Alisa laughs. The Foster, a large, vine-covered building incongruously located off of busy San Antonio Road, is an oasis of contemplative calm by comparison.

Solely dedicated to the work of Tony Foster, the eponymous museum houses a beautifully displayed collection of his watercolor landscapes that celebrate some of earth’s most wild, beautiful—and usually hard-to-reach—locations. Tony documents his artistic journeys, some taking years to complete, in a series of paintings large and small, accompanied by handwritten journal entries, sketches made in the field and small “souvenirs” (like dried leaves, shells, rocks) from the site.

The Foster Museum boasts a broad overview of Tony’s artistic output, called “Journeys,” from his first one in 1982, following Robert Louis Stevenson’s 1879 path through France, called Travels without a Donkey in the Cévennes. The collection includes Rainforest Diaries from Costa Rica and views of volcanoes with Ice and Fire in the 1990s to more recent journeys: Secret Sites in Idaho, Sacred Places in the American Southwest and the globe-spanning Exploring Beauty.

“I think one of the really wonderful things is that The Foster Museum has free admission. This is for everyone,” says Alisa. “It’s a resource for anybody who wants to come experience it, enjoy it, learn from it.” She walks through a gallery of works from the Exploring Beauty series and exclaims, “Oh, I have to show you the fish!” She explains that Tony solicited recommendations for the most beautiful places from notable scientists, explorers, writers and environmentalists. Sir David Attenborough’s chosen location sent Tony to a reef in the Cayman Islands.

An underwater photo shows the artist at work, suited up in scuba gear and sketching with pencils on a sheet of plastic instead of his usual sketchpad. While he normally makes his watercolors in situ, Tony relied on those waterproof sketches to recreate the multicolored wonderland of fish and corals he witnessed in a large-scale painting done on dry land. “That’s so challenging, because watercolors are obviously not going to work underwater,” Alisa notes.

At The Foster, Tony’s lovely pictures serve as an invitation for viewers to connect with nature and think about the need to protect these wonderful wild places. Opposite his luminous reef painting is a table set with coloring sheets on clipboards, a tray of seashells, colored pencils, a magnifying glass and laminated photos of sea creatures, an opportunity for young viewers to create underwater scenes of their own. Community outreach is a priority at The Foster, Alisa says, serving both its mission of environmental stewardship and acknowledging its out-of-the-way location.

Alisa has long been interested in conservation of a different kind. She started out as a conservator, with a vital behind-the-scenes role caring for objects in museum collections, doing everything from polishing antique silver to repainting damaged porcelain. Over the years, she’s worked on Greek and Roman antiquities and restored a damaged 1950s scale model of a United Airlines DC-8, fabricating replacements for a slew of missing hands, feet and accessories for the plane’s diminutive passengers and crew. She says conservators might spend an entire day up close and personal with a single object. “It allowed me to interact with artworks in a way I really love,” Alisa shares.

For someone with a conservation background, having ready access to the artist for questions about how to preserve their work is a boon. Not only is Tony transparent about his materials and methods—his palm-sized paint box, hiking boots and collection of paintbrushes are on display in The Foster—there’s no need to speculate when he’s just a phone call away. Alisa notes that a few of his paintings include marginalia, like an image of Chaco Canyon in New Mexico from Sacred Places. “These works are just so beautiful,” Alisa says, and then points out a series of small, quick brushstrokes outside the picture’s margins where Tony tested various colors in search of the right one.

It’s clear Alisa relishes being part of her hometown community, where she’s also the chair of Palo Alto’s Historic Resources Board. “It’s a really wonderful time to be coming to this museum because the museum is so new,” she says of The Foster, which opened in 2016. After a pandemic closure, it’s definitely starting to hit its stride, she adds. “Being from Palo Alto, it’s a very special thing to be able to be a part of an institution like this, that can really reach out to the community, and can serve as a place of education and as a gathering place.”

She notes the positive messages transmitted by Tony’s work: slowing down, taking a closer look at beautiful places around the world and cultivating the desire to preserve them. “I think those are really powerful concepts,” Alisa reflects, “and I’m really looking forward to helping people engage with them.”

The Foster Museum in Palo Alto hosts children’s story times, public lectures and events like nature journaling and art making. Go to thefoster.org for more information or a free reservation.

Diary of a Dog: Fallon

If you think that Jimmy Fallon is the friendliest late-night host, then I’m just like my namesake. Actually, I’m #jimmyfallon (it’s a long story), but I answer to Fallon and I firmly believe that every stranger is just a friend I haven’t met yet. I was the runt of a litter of ShiPorkis (Shi Tzu, poodle and Yorkshire terrier mix) when I was brought to the Stanford Faculty Club and adopted by Diane just before Christmas 2015. She says that my eyelashes go on for days and make women jealous. She used to fret about my “lack of boundaries” when meeting new people, but if everyone adores me, what is there to worry about? On Christmas Eve last year, I had an accident that left my hind legs paralyzed, but thanks to a great surgeon at UC Davis and intensive rehab at Scout’s House, I’m back on all four feet. I still wake up every day happy and ready to befriend anyone who will give me a scratch behind the ears in exchange for a little kiss. Diane wants me to take it easy, so she got a stroller for our longer daily walks around San Mateo. When I’m not hopping in and out, I sit like a captain on the prow of his ship, offering a friendly greeting to everyone we meet.

Calling All Dogs: If you've got quirky habits or a funny tale (or tail) to share, email your story to hello@punchmonthly.com for a chance to share a page from your Diary of a Dog in PUNCH.

Backyard Bounty

Words by Andrea Gemmet

After Denise Shackleton replaced the magnolia trees along her front fence with persimmons, she was surprised by how enthusiastic her neighbors and friends were about the transformed landscape. “When they ripen, I’m everybody’s best friend,” Denise laughs.

By the time she reinvented her front yard as an edible garden, Denise had long dreamed of being able to grow her own produce. Now, it doesn’t faze her when people stop by to ask if she needs help picking all those firm-fleshed Fuyu persimmons or wants someone to take them off her hands. Thanks to her garden’s designer and her own prowess in the kitchen, Denise is well-equipped to handle the harvest. She dries slices of the fruit to enjoy all year, makes a persimmon-habanero jam to spoon over cream cheese and she still has plenty of fruit to share. “I’m a big fan of Fuyus,” she admits.

Denise and her husband Woody moved to Atherton in 2006 after raising their children in the Belmont hills, where her gardening aspirations never really came to fruition. “I thought you could grow anything in California, but that’s not the case,” she says of her old home. But just a little farther south down the Peninsula, it’s a different story. “We moved 10 miles and got a 15-degree difference in weather,” Denise says. In Atherton, it was possible to raise fruits and vegetables, just like she’d enjoyed on her grandparents’ farm in Northern California. Then, at a home and garden show in San Mateo, she discovered landscape designer Leslie Bennett, whose display artfully incorporated edible plants. Denise knew she’d found the perfect partner.


Leslie is the visionary behind Pine House Edible Gardens, which not only specializes in creating gardens that are fruitful as well as beautiful, but also offers ongoing gardening and harvesting services to keep clients’ landscapes flourishing in every season. Denise brought in Leslie to reimagine first one corner of her yard, and then another, and still another.

Off and on for over 10 years, the stately home’s grounds evolved into a series of garden vignettes that are as delicious as they are decorative.
On a sunny day in October, when the cool breeze signals the shift from summer to fall, Denise’s inviting front yard is bursting with color and texture. It’s only when you look a little closer that the garden reveals its secrets. Tucked behind an heirloom wine press, a tempting array of vegetables beckons from raised planters: plump tomatoes, deep green padron peppers, floppy yellow zucchini blossoms, glossy eggplants. Denise steps past the tall serrated fronds of an artichoke and ruddy stalks of rhubarb, and skirts the two beehives, explaining that they’re still abuzz from the beekeeper’s visit the day before.

Graceful trees hide figs and bumpy green avocados among their leaves, while a stately row of pomegranate trees flanks the swimming pool. Chinotto sour orange blossoms perfume the air, and patches of herbs and lacy alyssum attract pollinators. Leslie describes her style as “plant-heavy, layered and lush,” and delights in designing gardens that have a soft, romantic feel. “A big part of my work is growing food and flowers for harvest, creating beautiful spaces and creating gardens that are meaningful, that reflect your family story, your heritage and culture,” Leslie says. Denise wanted a tangible way to share the cultural traditions she’d learned from her Italian immigrant grandparents and pass them down to her grandkids. “That has been really inspiring as a design mission for the property,” Leslie shares. “I love the idea that gardens can be spaces where we can literally grow our family stories.”


“I wanted to see Denise’s grandchildren frolicking through there, picking fresh figs—that was her dream—and I think it’s come to be a reality,” says Leslie. “She’s had a lot of pure enjoyment from the garden. Those grandkids know every fruit tree, when they’re ripe, their seasons, and they know where their food comes from. That’s so awesome.”

Walk out the back door and you’ll see a gracious, spacious backyard, pleasing to the eye and perfect for family gatherings— including the wedding of Denise and Woody’s son in 2022. Dig a little deeper, and you’ll find every corner is cleverly used to its best advantage: heat-loving tomato varieties line the fence along the tennis court, which absorbs sunshine and reflects warmth. A cutting garden of lanky flowers is half-hidden by glossy fig trees. A narrow gravel path between two planting beds is lined with arching trellises that support cheerful cherry tomatoes in summer. Every fall, a crew from Pine House replaces the tomato, pepper, cucumber and basil plants with winter vegetables like beets, broccoli and Swiss chard.

Every two years, Denise has Pine House do a “freshen up” to replace any plants that are past their prime. “They’re so on top of stuff, they know all the new plants and new styles,” she says admiringly. Every other week during peak season, the crew comes out to do a heavy harvest, which keeps the plants producing. Denise finds ways to use or preserve it all—she is the kind of person who cannot stand to see food go to waste. “I do a lot of canning and dehydrating,” she says, and her artwork decorates the labels of her canning jars. Leslie has been the recipient of everything from fried zucchini blossoms to Denise’s “excellent” jams.

While Woody wasn’t terribly interested in their home’s edible garden at first, his appreciation has blossomed. Denise recalls her husband being wowed by the intense flavor of the first tomato they harvested, so unlike anything from a grocery store. “He said, ‘Oh my God, that’s the best tomato I’ve ever tasted!’” she laughs. “I said, ‘It’s also the most expensive!’”

Early Starts
Here are landscape designer Leslie Bennett’s top picks to plant in Peninsula gardens this winter: 
+ Striped fig: Also called a panache or tiger fig. “It’s a small, pretty garden tree, and the fruit is super delicious.”
+ Meyer lemon: A hardworking evergreen that thrives in large pots as well as in the ground, and produces fruit year-round. “We’re in California, everyone should have one.” 
+ Roses: Instead of a formal rose garden, sprinkle them throughout your landscaping. “There aren’t many other flowers that have such a big bloom with such a long bloom season.” Leslie sources unusual varieties from Regan Nursery in Fremont. 
+ Aeonium canariense: A great border-edging plant, this evergreen and cold-hardy succulent thrives on the Peninsula. “It adds a young, cool, updated look to the garden.”
+ Leucadendron ‘Ebony’: This hardy, winter-blooming plant has dark burgundy leaves that appear almost black. “It’s beautiful in all seasons, and it’s dark, so it makes a great contrast in the landscape.”

The Shackletons’ yard is featured in Garden Wonderland, Leslie Bennett (pictured above) and Julie Chai’s 2024 book, published by Ten Speed Press. pinehouseediblegardens.com

Essay: Teddy’s Big Hit

Words by Sloane Citron

The Citron family group text was rife with stories of the T-Ball heroics of one of our youngest members, Theodore Solomon Leonard, or Teddy. Home runs of unimaginable distances, T-Ball coaches telling their players to “back up, back up” and parents beaming with pride.

Since he lives a bit of distance from me, getting to one of his games was not as easy as with my other grandkids. It had to be planned. My daughter told me that Teddy’s last game was scheduled for a Sunday in mid-November, and I put it, underlined twice, into my appointment book.

In the meantime, I was undergoing a procedure on my kidneys and was waiting patiently for the doctor to tell me when he was going to operate. Kidney stones run in our family, with one daughter and one son both needing surgery to deal with them.

Over the past few years, I’ve noticed intermittent kidney pain, a slight dull ache in my lower sides and back. But I didn’t bother with it. At my physical this year, they found some “invisible” blood in my urine. After some other testing, a CAT scan showed two large stones, a 12-centimeter one in my left kidney and a 11-centimeter one in the right kidney.

My doctor told me that if it were him, he would get them removed to avoid the problems of stones that size trying to leave my body. I went with that.

After I awoke from my operation, my doctor told me that, unfortunately, my left ureter was twisted and that while they were able to successfully remove the other stone, they had to put in a stent to straighten the tube to allow the instruments to go up into my kidney. The next surgery would be several weeks out. Frankly, the horribleness of those weeks with two stents (one was in there for the other kidney, which normally would have come out after a few days) was something I would not opt to go through again.

Finally, the clinic called and said my surgery date was on a Thursday, just two days before Teddy’s last game. I decided to just go with the flow, and I kept my airline reservation for Friday morning. I got up the next morning after the surgery and Ubered to the airport, determined to watch Teddy play ball. I made it just fine.

Finally, it was time for the last game and Teddy was ready to swing. The location was magnificent, with permanent T-Ball and coach-pitch fields, and real fences in the outfield, not that temporary stuff. Teddy’s team took the field first and then batted in the bottom of the inning. Up seventh (everyone bats) Teddy geared up and smashed a line drive that settled at the bottom of the left field fence. No home run but a great swing that cleared the bases.

The next inning, Teddy approached the plate with the goal of knocking it out of the park. Opposing coaches yelled, “Get back! Get back! He can hit it!” This alone filled me with pride. Teddy again punished the ball, but it landed at the bottom of the right field fence without going over. A minute later, the game was over. “What?” I said. “Only two innings?”

Yes, that was it, two innings and done. Teddy looked a bit dejected, but he has a good attitude, and no one said a word except “Great game!” and “Great hitting!” Of course, we didn’t care if he hit a home run or not. But after everyone had left, Teddy’s dad asked his boy if he wanted to practice hitting some balls. So, Teddy got up and crushed a few balls, again with none going over the fence.

Finally, on the last ball, Teddy smashed it high and far. All eyes were on that ball. It flew into the blue sky, and we were all urging it on. Would it make it? We held our breath, waiting. Finally, the ball started descending and landed about four feet short of the fence but then (!) bounced over. Technically, it was a ground rule double and it wasn’t even hit in an actual game. But it made no difference.

“Home run! Home run!” Teddy screamed as he went around the bases. We cheered. “I hit it out for you, Saba!” he called to me. Hand in hand, we crowded back to the car, happy faces filled with pride, and headed straight to the local ice cream shop to celebrate.

Essay: Amarillo by Evening

Words by Sloane Citron

Each year, I go to my hometown of Amarillo, Texas, so that I can see regular life in these United States. On my recent trip, gas was $2.79 per gallon, and if you signed up for the gas card you could get it down to $2.59. There’s a start for you.

I flew into Denver to spend the night at my brother Dan’s (he is a doctor there). Next morning, we got up early and started our road trip south, driving through Colorado Springs with the Rockies as the backdrop, then into New Mexico with its Southwest pines and rough terrain, before the final stretch into Big A. It’s an easy seven hours with a couple of stops to use the bathroom and get some bad food. We bring CDs but mostly keep the sound off so we can talk—that’s the true beauty of being on the road together.

We have a dear, lifelong family friend, Trudy Klingensmith, who has a simple, ramshackle cabin that her parents built 70 years ago in the Palo Duro Club, just south of Amarillo. The views change throughout the day but are always captivating. The club is in an offshoot of the Palo Duro Canyon, the second largest canyon in the United States, spectacular to traverse and fascinating to read about. You probably haven’t heard of it, but it’s worth the trip.

We sit on Trudy’s large porch overlooking a gently flowing creek, high above golden fields with hills beyond. We watch for green herons, turkey vultures and assorted ducks. We walk along dusty roads hunting for arrowheads and fire-cracked rocks from the Comanches and Cheyenne who roamed this canyon for thousands of years. Life takes on its own flavor here, wonderfully free from the world’s distractions.

I take a break from the cabin and spend a day with one of my oldest, dearest friends, Mike, who stayed in Amarillo to run the printing company his parents established. Mike has the beginnings of early dementia, and I wanted to reassure him that I was there for him. We always play golf, both having grown up with the sport. In Amarillo, it’s easy to belong to a country club and Mike still does.

For many years, we had been playing the “new course” at Tascosa Country Club since it’s easier to get a starting time there than at the old course. But what I really wanted was to play the original course, the one that I had played hundreds of times since I was about five years old. This time we got lucky: the night before it had rained heavily, and it was overcast when we showed up the next morning. I pleaded my case to the starter (my father was one of the original founders of the club since Amarillo Country Club did not allow Catholics, Jews or Blacks) and he got us right on.

Mike might be forgetting some names and thoughts, but he is all there on the fairways. As I like to do, we played scramble golf where we work as a team rather than against each other. The course, while still mostly as I had recalled it, had been changed.

They cut down about half the trees and made the course easier. And the fairways and greens were in much better shape than I remembered. The most significant thing was that there were now homes lining every hole, displacing the challenging rough that was once was filled with yucca plants, rocks and foot-high tumbleweeds. I felt as if I was playing down a street of some new suburban home development.

We played well, Mike outdriving me down the middle of the fairways on most holes and I putting it on the green in regulation. My putter (borrowed, of course) was on fire and I made about six putts over 15 feet. Together, we played a solid round.

After we played, we headed to the club’s fine restaurant and sat down for conversation and food. We have lots to say to each other, though much goes unsaid because neither of us are big talkers. But being side by side, like we have been since about 1968, was all that mattered. I love the guy.

Mike kept telling me how important it was that we spend the day together since he’s not been getting out with friends as often. But he’s still at it: he’s helping run the ranch he and his wife own; still doing his part at the shop; and still buying old cars (barn finds) that he encounters. He’s moving straight forward, though with changes looming.

The next day, Dan, Trudy and I enjoyed some spectacular views from the porch, with wonderful conversations about all our old Amarillo friends. (“Now didn’t his son go to UT? I believe he’s a vet in Dallas now.”) The next day, reluctantly, Dan and I packed it up and drove to Denver, back into the reality of our worlds.

Amarillo is important to me. It’s a unique, somewhat beautiful small city of 200,000 where everyone seems to be connected. I like tracing my childhood life while I am there, by way of my old schools, homes and people. There is a continuity in my old hometown. But, of course, nothing stays the same.

The golf course is changing. Mike’s changing. I’m changing. Together.

Essay: Brightly Burning

Words by Sloane Citron

Growing up in Amarillo, Texas, my family’s Hanukkah celebrations were subdued and uneventful. We would light the candles without much fanfare, and I was given one gift from my grandmother and one from my parents. Usually, my grandmother gave me something of substance, like a bicycle or a musical instrument. She was always good for something up to $75, which would be a large number in today’s money. She was a generous woman, not just with her family but with everyone, and I learned from her.

When I had my own family of four children, I felt compelled to give them the full treatment. There are several prayers and songs that accompany the lighting of the eight candles (one candle the first night leading to eight on the last night), so doing the liturgy and songs every night is the best way for children to learn them.

Besides the poetic experience of lighting the candles, I felt compelled to provide plenty of materialistic things for my children. In what would seem an effort to make up for the muted holidays of my youth, I decided to shower my kids with delight. So, I took on the responsibility of finding eight presents for each child, a total of 32 gifts.

On the face of it, this seems like a ridiculous idea. But I was committed and so I set about doing the best job that I possibly could—these were my kids after all.

The first step was to get each of them things I knew that they wanted, from a telescope to a party dress to flying lessons. Each child was unique with very different interests and desires. Finding four such presents made a good start.

But that hardly covered the goal of getting them each eight gifts. I would wander the aisles of Target and the stores at Stanford Shopping Center looking for presents I thought they might like. I would usually find a few choice things this way, narrowing down the number left to find.

Some of the gifts were truly small gestures, though not quite as bad as giving them an orange, like in days past. I would go to local bookstores and buy up a dozen books, maybe head over to Big 5 for some baseballs or hats or sunglasses. Eventually, the job got done.

Each night of Hanukkah we would summon all the kids (and often their friends) into our kitchen. We would gather around the large island where we had placed all of our Hanukkiahs (eight-branched menorahs), a collection that continually grew as we found new ones that we liked. We would place tin foil below each of them to keep the wax from spilling all over the granite surface. Then we would turn off all the lights and, in the darkness, we would find the magic of the holiday.

As the prayers and songs were recited, we slowly lit the candle the first night, adding one more each night. By the fourth day, the Hanukkiahs shone brightly, and the room was filled with the flickering light of the candles. It was wondrous to watch my children open their gifts each night, the quiet light illuminating their efforts to unwrap them.

A book didn’t get the same response as a new baseball glove, but the kids were always grateful and happy. After the gifts were opened and the wrapping paper lay strewn across our kitchen floor, we would have a delicious family dinner with latkes, applesauce and sour cream. After the meal, the kids would play dreidel with golden foil-covered chocolate coins.

Today, life is different. My children now have children of their own, blossoming into a group of 14, with more little ones expected to join our tribe in 2025. And, of course, these grown-up kids have their own homes and are eager to celebrate Hanukkah there, diligently teaching their children the prayers and songs we taught them.

There is no way to get them all eight gifts each, since that would be 112 presents. I think I’d need to hire an assistant for that chore. Instead, I do my best to find one gift for each of them.

We all get together in our family home for at least one of the nights, and it is a true joy to see the new additions singing the prayers and songs with a gusto that I certainly didn’t have at that age. And, with the lights out and the room dark, there’s happiness in my heart as I watch them, just as I had watched their parents, open their gifts against the dim light of the briskly burning candles.

Happy Christmas and Hanukkah to you and your family.

Essay: Three Days of Adventure

Words by Sloane Citron

I’ve learned to grab any chance at family, memories and happiness. So when my son Josh and his wife Adara asked if I could possibly pick up my grandson, Evan, from golf camp and entertain him for a few days, I jumped at the opportunity.

At five years old, Evan is the eldest of my seven grandchildren and we’re good pals. Like all the other kids, he calls me Saba, Hebrew for grandfather.
Evan had golf camp every day for a week, starting at 8:30 in the morning and ending at 12:30. My job for three consecutive days was to pick him up, feed him lunch, entertain him and get him home safely by 5:30. My little guy loves golf and for a five-year-old, he’s pretty good. Josh and I take him to play—either at the driving range or on a course—and he hangs in there.

On our first day, I picked him up at 12:30 sharp. With no real plan in mind, we headed over the hill straight for Half Moon Bay’s Main Street. We landed at Johnny’s, a friendly local restaurant, where we got egg salad sandwiches and fries. Always fries.

We wandered along the street and went into some interesting shops. In one of them, Evan found small ceramic turtles that he pined for, but I wrangled him out of the shop while promising him that I’d consider coming back for them.

Then we headed to the Pillar Point Harbor, where we wandered down the pier. Though the fishing boats were done for the day, we still meandered about, and I explained to Evan about the anchors, nets, cages and other stuff generally found on these boats. We also caught sight of several seals, and, of course, Evan wanted to feed them.

We ran into a grizzly old fisherman with unkempt hair carrying a 12-pack of beer and I stopped him. The three of us had a good conversation about the world of commercial fishing. I tried to insinuate that we would like to see his boat, but no invitation was forthcoming. I kicked myself afterward for not asking him directly, because I think he would have said yes.

Afterward, we returned to downtown Half Moon Bay to buy the small ceramic turtles that Evan had coveted (also, he insisted, for his sister Mara). It’s hard for me to say no to his sweet requests. After that, I returned him home and got back to my house, a bit worn out from our full afternoon.

The next day, we decided to have lunch at the golf course restaurant, a somewhat run-down place that has seen better times. Evan had his favorite rice with teriyaki sauce. Afterward, we headed south for 30 minutes to Hidden Villa to see what we could see. We wandered through the ramshackle place, petting goats and sheep and trying to catch lizards. We had great fun and Evan sat down on one of the benches to share some of his favorite riddles.

When he tells them with his lisp (as I, “Thloane Thitron,” once had), he’s just so darn cute. The best one was, “What is wobbly and in the sky?” I asked Evan for the answer. He quietly said, “A jellycopter” and we both laughed. He kept telling jokes until he had run out and started making up ones that made no sense. Finally, it was time to head for home, another wonderful adventure down.

Friday was our last day. Despite my efforts to convince him otherwise, he wanted to have lunch again at the golf course restaurant. We ordered a repeat of the day before, but the waitress came out and told us they were out of rice. It’s that kind of place. In exchange, the cook said that he would serve us scrambled eggs, hashbrowns and toast, which I had tried to order the day before but was refused since it was after noon. Evan is a good eater and never needs cajoling into finishing a meal. But he is not quick, so we were there a good hour while my little grandson finished off his entire plate.

From there we headed up north, following a route that only Waze could create, to the Fitzgerald Marine Preserve. Though I knew it was the wrong time to visit because the tide would be high, we still had a great time. We played in the small streams, jumped rocks, looked at far-off seals and studied shells. Evan is cautious but did great at navigating the rocks in the streams of water. “Saba, slow and steady wins the race,” he told me more than once.

We saw hiking trails, so we headed up into the forested area next to the tidepools. It was inspiring being within the canopy of the large, beautiful trees. With no one else there, it was our magic forest, and Evan kept exclaiming, “Saba, this is the most beautiful place I’ve ever been.” And he might have been correct.

My three afternoons with Evan were a singular treat, adventures that we’ll remember. And they solidly met my criteria of family, memories and happiness. When I dropped Evan off after the last of our three days of hanging out, neither of us wanted it to end. Evan kept saying, “Saba, don’t leave.” But with a heart filled with joy, I climbed into my car, knowing our next playdate was just around the corner.

Essay: Rough, Ruff

Words by Sloane Citron

One of my favorite memories was of my family dog. I’ve written before about Tamby (the Lord of Timberline was his self-important AKC name), a mostly black, medium-sized German Shepherd with a fast gait and a never-ending desire to run and pursue. A loving, friendly dog, he was known for chasing cars down the street for several blocks, nipping at the tires until, finally, worn out, he would limp back home and lie down next to us, panting loudly, his long tongue hanging from his mouth.

During the summers while I was growing up in Amarillo, I made the four-hour trip to Chandler, Oklahoma, where I was a regular at Chandler Baseball Camp. Under the dusty, blazing-hot sky, we played ball for eight hours a day. We focused on baseball and baseball only—hitting drills, bunting practices, running the bases. To a boy like me, crazy about baseball, it was heaven on earth. Though I didn’t realize it at the time, one of the best parts of camp was its complete divorce from the rest of my life.

In the summer after sixth grade, my father drove me to camp as usual, and I entrusted Tamby to him, since there was no one else at home. A month later, after another wonderful summer playing ball, while on the last leg of our return trip home, my Dad said that he had something to tell me. The story he shared was that Tamby had bitten a neighbor child—on our front lawn where he had no business being—when the boy brought his dog over and the two dogs got into a fight.

The boy’s family was going to sue us and to settle the situation, Tamby had been sent to live with a “wonderful family on a big ranch not far from Amarillo,” my Dad told me. I had tears in my eyes but didn’t say a word. I had become accustomed to loss. My brother and sister had gone away to prep school and college (I was the youngest by five years) and my mother had moved away to further her career as a concert violinist. The loss of Tamby was just one more slice of sadness in my young life.

I never asked any questions of my father and never discussed the incident or Tamby’s well-being with anyone. I think I was afraid of learning something worse than the story I’d been told.

Recently, I was in Chicago visiting with my sister Shelley and my brother Dan. We meet regularly just to be together, catch up and share some new adventures. My sister lives in the heart of the city in a beautiful condominium overlooking Lake Michigan.

Chicago is my favorite big city. Despite all the negative press, it’s simply a wonderful place. The streets are immaculate; there are beautifully landscaped planters on every block; the people are friendly and helpful. Not to mention that there are countless places to discover. Though I go there at least once a year, there’s always more to see and do.

Of course, Shelley, Dan and I talk endlessly about current events, our families and our long history together. We remember the people we grew up with, our neighbors, and the family and friends we have lost. Often, we’ll crack open an old photo album and look at ourselves as children. That always gets a smile touched with feelings of loss. I love hearing their memories of our childhood, since much of it happened before I was really on the scene.

Toward the end of our last visit, we talked about our family cat, Tiger. When I was just an infant, Dan found a cat in the alley that ran behind our home, a young tabby with a sweet meow and a friendly, affectionate nature. My brother brought him home and talked our parents into keeping him. My brother, sister and I discussed the small, quiet cat, and the recollections we each had of him.

I thought about asking Shelley and Dan about Tamby, about the story that our father had told me, that after the biting incident he was taken to a large cattle ranch to join a wonderful family. But then, I thought better. I didn’t want to disturb the truth that I had held onto my entire life, of our dog out there on that ranch, happy and content. I wanted to forever imagine him running along the Texas plains, racing after a ranch truck, nipping at its tires and never giving up the chase.

Essay: Yeah, Yeah, Yeah

Awhile back, my daughter Tali suggested that she and I should do something together, just the two of us. We couldn’t remember the last time we had done such a thing, giving greater resonance to the idea.

Tali is the third of my four children and has always lived at home in Menlo Park or nearby (her family now lives in San Carlos, which they have come to love) and our lives are very much intertwined. She married her high school sweetheart, Sam (also from Menlo Park), works as an excellent real estate agent and is the caring mother of three small children (5, 4 and 2) who are always on the go. She’s a busy woman, as you can imagine. My daughter has a spunky nature, always laughing, joking and happy. She’s youthful-looking, and many do a double-take when they learn her age.

When Tali was a small girl, I wrote an essay about how she reminded me of my long-gone grandmother, Beulah. That glimmer in her eye and her sweet smile still make me recall my grandmother, with whom I had a loving, special relationship. When I’m with Tali, I often think of the sweet, old woman who taught me to play cribbage.

Tali found a concert for us at the spectacular Mountain Winery in Saratoga, and so we secured tickets and put it on the calendar, which happened to be on the Saturday before Father’s Day. While I’m a bit underwhelmed by holidays celebrating me, I did like the idea that we would enjoy the evening together before the day.

I’m an anxious guy when it comes to getting to events—or anything—on time, so I was a bit concerned when Tali told me that her family would be at a birthday party until late afternoon and that she could be home and ready to leave at 6:30 for the 7:30 show. I arrived early and as soon as she pulled up, she jumped in my car, and we headed off to Saratoga.

If you haven’t attended a show at the Mountain Winery, you’re missing out. I’ve gone to dozens of shows there and it’s my favorite venue for seeing a live act. It’s up on a luscious green mountain surrounded by vineyards, and the setting is simply dazzling. You can see for miles. It’s perfectly laid out, intimate and unique, with the original winery building from 1852 serving as the backdrop for the stage.

Tali and I made quick work of the trip there and, even though we were later than most arrivals, were fortunately given a close-in parking space. Outside of the seating area, they offer a variety of delicious dinner options and after promptly receiving our food, we sat down in the patio to enjoy our meals.
We were just finishing our last bites (in between chatting with different people we knew) when we heard “She Loves You,” the iconic Beatles’ song.

This was not a recording but what we had come to see: The Fab Four, perhaps the preeminent Beatles cover band. We finished up and found our seats, which were in a great spot with a clear view of the stage.

The first half of the show featured the band’s early songs, and we fought the urge to get up and dance. We didn’t want to block the people behind us, so we just sang the songs together and rocked in our seats. To her credit, Tali knew them all. She did, as she reminded me, grow up in my home, where ‘60s music was always playing as we swam, barbecued and played sports in our backyard.

The night was brisk, but soon the band encouraged everyone to stand, and we moved to the familiar music, the quality and poetry of which has not diminished after 60 years. That warmed us up and got our energy flowing. It was a happy, lively evening, the stars shining above us.

Since Tali’s normal wake-up time is 2AM, 4AM and then up for good around 5AM, we didn’t want to get stuck in the traffic going down the mountain, so when we felt like The Fab Four was closing in on its finale, we dashed out to beat the crowd. Thirty minutes later, I was depositing my sweet girl at her home, the lights still on, waiting for mom to come back.

It was a perfect night with a perfect daughter. We had a splendid time together, reminiscing, joking, laughing and singing our hearts out to the songs of the ages. “Dad,” Tali said after giving me a hug and a kiss when she was about to get out of my car, “We’ve got to make this an annual thing.” And so, we will. I teared up a bit on my solo drive home, nostalgic for my life when my children were small, but feeling blessed that they all still like to hang with their dad.

Essay: Pretty, Pretty Good Friends

Words by Sloane Citron

I’m a grandfather to seven young kids, so you might assume that I have learned what I will learn, know who I know and am done building friendships. But you’d be wrong.

While my brother, Dan, and my sons, Josh and Coby, are my truly devoted friends, and I have five other close friendships that stretch back 30-plus years, something fascinating has happened. I call it the Larry David syndrome—being comfortable enough in your own skin to talk openly and honestly without caring too much about what others think.

I have found that speaking genuinely and openly is liberating. I find myself speaking my mind when I’m out and about in daily life, whether at a car repair shop that did shoddy work or with the vendor at the Giants game who offered a smile. Whether a confrontational situation or a pleasant encounter, I work hard to interact in a direct and thoughtful way with anyone I encounter. But I find that I no longer fear frank confrontation, something I could never say about my younger self.

These days, my close friends and I are able to talk about all the crap in our lives with impunity. Instead of having to prove ourselves (as we used to), we are now competing to see who has the most nonsense and annoyances in their lives. It’s a race to the bottom.

I will say, especially in these polarizing times, that most of my friends and I share the same background and political opinions, though not all do. One of my newest friends, with whom I could talk for hours, is a rather pious Catholic and on the moderate side of the opposing party. We end up agreeing on most things and we never argue. I like hearing his views and learning from them. We are a metaphor for what government should be like.

I have one friend whom I’ve known for decades. In those many years spent at dinners and events, I don’t think we ever met without our wives being present. Since he leads a more outgoing life and is involved in so many things, I always felt that he wouldn’t want to have a meal just with me. His sweet wife once causally suggested, as we were leaving their home, that her husband and I should have lunch, so we did. And we had a great time. I discovered that though he is this amazing guy, he puts up with as much nonsense in life as the rest of us. Sharing our intimate details was cathartic for us both and now we regularly get together.

In another instance, an old client of mine, with whom I share many opinions and experiences, suggested we go have lunch on his large, beautiful boat in Redwood City’s incredible new Westpoint Harbor. Outside of an office setting, sitting on the shining wooden dock, we discovered the basis of true friendship. We talked from our souls with no encumbrances. Again, it’s the Larry David effect.

With some of my oldest friends, I have found the same. They know I trust them, and they trust me. Plus, none of us cares if we are called out on something. We all have been successful, the kids are grown, and the dog has passed, so we have the joyful freedom of seeing it as we see it.

Just recently, someone I knew moderately well at my prep school, Andover, reached out and we discovered that our lives are very much in sync. Though he is now a rather famous director, and our lives took somewhat different paths, right now, we are bonding in a great way. He is working on the same projects as I am, and our lives are dedicated to furthering those aims.

There is the cliché that “a friend is someone you can tell everything to and they still like you.” It’s great to sit with one of these friends and say whatever is on our minds. We find that the more we open up, the more in depth we go, the more we end up talking about intimate things that I thought I’d never share with anyone. By doing so, we connect in meaningful ways that is certainly good for our mental health.

Developing deep friendships at this point in life is liberating and invigorating. One thing that I have learned, whether on these pages as an essayist, in the public or talking with my friends, is the importance of being earnest and vulnerable—telling it like is, and not caring what people think.

It’s all thanks to my inner Larry David.

Essay: Our Sycamore

Words by Sloane Citron

When we started PUNCH some six years ago, the first task on my list was finding office space. We didn’t need much room, but it needed to feel bright and cheerful and be in Menlo Park, since that’s where I live. Hunting for office space—and with it, the overall thrill of a new launch—is invigorating.

I’ve had an office in Menlo Park since 1993, so I know the town well. I’m acquainted with its buildings, alleyways and office complexes. I decided that it made sense to roam the city, so I walked the downtown streets and when something looked interesting, I went inside and checked it out. By walking the halls and talking to tenants, I could get a good idea if I might be interested.

I’m picky about my office since that’s where I spend a good third of my time. While I prefer more unique spaces, most of what is available is in typical office buildings. But each space has its nuances: brightness, lighting, layout and overall vibe. The bottom line is that I wanted a space that lifted us up as we walked through its doors and made us feel inspired and creative as we spent our days there.

If something seemed interesting, I made the effort to find out who was in charge and then I rang them up to see if there was a space available, the rate and when it might become vacant. Some had “For Lease” on the side of the building, but many small spaces and offices don’t post anything.

If my memory is correct, I believe I saw the office on Craigslist, despite my hours of wandering around the town.

At the small building on El Camino Real, I met the landlord, and we walked up to the second floor to the office, which was occupied by a fledgling tech startup. Between their mess and the white walls, dirty carpet and the somewhat tired building, I had my doubts. But the layout was perfect, with a larger room in front with a giant skylight and a separate secondary space with large windows looking out over the street.

What really sold me on the office was the wonderful sycamore tree just outside the windows. It brought nature and beauty into the rooms and gave it a unique and positive feel.

Though there was no elevator (ugh, since we always have boxes of magazines to move), there was a perfect niche for storing our issues. The price was right, the location perfect and there was plenty of potential, so I made an offer.

Once the old tenants were gone, we set about making it ours. I asked my designer daughter, Arielle Citron Leonard, what to do and she told me the colors to paint the walls and trim, which carpets to get and what the furniture should look like. In a matter of weeks, it was perfect.

But one of the defining aspects of our office is the tree, what I now think of as our tree. The sycamore is a result of the efforts of a local organization that worked tirelessly to plant them throughout Menlo Park’s El Camino corridor 20+ years ago. We delight in following our tree’s journey though the course of the year. In autumn, the leaves slowly drift away until, suddenly, it is bare. Then in spring, it gradually gains its greenery back until it is once again full.

For the past eight months, there has been a small dead branch that broke off and intertwined with another limb, arresting its descent. It’s dangling by what seems like the tiniest of twigs, in defiance of gravity. Time and the laws of nature will eventually cause it to fall, but every morning we gather to see if the small limb has finally dropped. As I write this, it’s still there.

While I have many issues with the city for ignoring our tired, sad downtown, I’m grateful for the tree. Without question, Menlo Park has the most attractive stretch of El Camino on the Peninsula, all due to the efforts of the “tree people” having the vision to know how these towering gems would make a difference in our lives.

Trees speak to us in a way that man can’t. They give us a sense of comfort and permanence. A sense of protection and endurance. And our solitary tree, brushing up against our office window, swaying with wind, always reliable, comforts us. And we wonder just when that small branch will finally yield to natural forces, as all things must, and flutter to the ground.

Essay: The Cabbin

Words by Sloane Citron

One of the great joys I had growing up in Amarillo was our family’s cabin in the “canyon,” which I’ve previously written about here. We’d pack up the Chrysler station wagon with our stuff and our big, black German Shepherd Tamby and head out. As a child, I thought the trip was a long one. Only later in life did I understand that it was only 30 minutes away. Still, its remote uniqueness from our suburban home always made it feel like an adventure.

The cabin came to be because several Amarillo doctors decided to build weekend homes in a beautiful small canyon, known always as simply the Canyon. Nestled within its walls was a small creek that ran through the middle, filled with belching bullfrogs and big, slimy catfish. At night, the sky was bright with stars and fireflies darted through the air.

While the other doctors constructed typical, basic cabins and rustic homes, my father, influenced by the time he spent in Japan as a surgeon during the Korean War, decided to build a true Japanese home out there in the Panhandle dust and weeds. Probably sketched out on a scrap of paper, the design was simple and straightforward, though it was clear that the details were thoughtfully considered.

The home was small, I’d guess under 1,000 square feet, and comprised two parts: one for living and one for sleeping. The location, on the eighth hole of a rudimentary golf course, was one reason that my father, a forever golf-duffer, wanted to have a cabin out there. Rising behind our small cabin were rugged cliffs that, when breached, led to the forever flat plains that defined the region.

The cabin, though thoroughly Japanese in style, was simple. The living area was one room with a small kitchen on one end and an attached screened-in porch to keep the multitude of grasshoppers, snakes and mosquitoes outside. The living area had small chairs and tables and a sweet built-in couch that was perfect for wrestling with my brother Danny or hunkering down with a Mad magazine. We kids ate our meals on a high counter-bar when we could be cajoled into coming back from wherever we were playing, summoned by the striking of a huge gong in our front yard that reverberated throughout the entire canyon.

A very distinct orange bridge, about 15 feet across, connected the living area to the smaller sleeping section, divided into two halves, a kids’ room with two bunk beds, and my parents’ room. In between the bedrooms was a narrow hallway with a wall phone, where we had a party line, which meant that all the families in the canyon shared one line. If I was bored, I’d carefully lift off the handle from the receiver and listen in on conversations.

For us kids, the cabin was a place of freedom, exploration and discovery, often about ourselves. Teens were allowed to drive on the dusty, rocky roads, often ending up in ditches, from which we had to be extracted. We blew things up with M-80s and Cherry Bombs and captured lizards, turtles and frogs for weekend pets. Sometimes we used old bamboo fishing rods to pull up slimy catfish.

At some point, the unique cabin caught the attention of someone in the publishing world, and a well-known photographer, John Rogers, did a photo shoot of the cabin and our family. I was seven but remember it well. Some months later, LIVING magazine published an article about the cabin and featured some of those photos.

Recently, an archivist at the University of North Texas contacted me for more details about the cabin and our family to accompany the photos that are now in their possession. The best part was that she had access to the original images from the shoot, many that we had not seen before. There was Shelley with her horse Tuscan and the three of us lying on the floor playing board games. There was a great picture of the large gong. Through the images, I could touch the time at the cabin, full of innocence and adventure.

Our father, much to the great displeasure of me and my brother, sold our cabin a couple of years before his death. I guess he thought we wouldn’t have come back often enough to make it worthwhile. But we would have, and I wish I could take my kids and grandkids back to that special place. We’d hit the gong, look for arrowheads, chase lizards and blow stuff up. And when it got dark, we’d watch the stars and try to capture the fireflies that danced through the night.

Essay: Sunday Mornings

Words by Sloane Citron

Most Sunday mornings, my daughter Tali brings her kids, Liav, Levi and Noah, over to our home for a playdate. Since they get up at 6AM and head over soon after, I’m still sleeping when they arrive. Sometimes they let me sleep a bit, it being Sunday and all, but sometimes they come flooding into our bedroom like an unexpected hurricane. From deep sleep to kids pounding on you is an otherworldly experience.

Downstairs, while I’m getting ready for the day, there is a whirlwind of activity in the kitchen, with everything from pancakes (with whipped cream and sprinkles, of course) to scrambled eggs to store-bought doughnuts or other pastries being made ready for breakfast. The smell is always enticing.

Tali is my child with boundless energy and a vibrant personality. While a young girl she was famous for singing “opera” (as we called it) while sitting underneath our large dining table on Friday nights during our weekly Shabbat dinners, hitting high notes that made everyone laugh. Her children have even more energy than their mother.

While breakfast is prepared, the kids are usually engaged in their favorite activity, jumping from one couch to another, each time pulling the furniture a bit farther apart until you’d swear there’d be no way for them to make it. Though they always seem to land safely, I anticipate the day that I’m rushing one of them to the emergency room for some stitches.

We have cabinets full of toys, dress-up clothes and books, and most get used during their visits. It’s hard to get any of them to read a book with me, though Noah, who’s about 20 months old, will sometimes sit and let me look at a picture book with him, as balls and toys are being hurled across the room. I love the bedlam, as it reminds me of the frenzy and chaos of raising my own four children, who all were born within seven years of each other.

We are able to get them seated, for a moment or so, at the breakfast room table to eat. Inevitably, there is someone crawling across the table to get someone else’s whipped cream, sprinkles or milk. You know they’re done eating by the smears of maple syrup on the table, with paper napkins stuck to the wood.

These are outside children and so after breakfast and a roomful of displaced furniture, toys, balls and dolls, we plan our escape. Depending on our mood, we go to Burgess Park or to Sharon Park, both in Menlo Park.

Burgess Park has many activities, with baseball fields, a skate park, a busy playground, tennis courts and a small pond with a plethora of ducks and usually a turtle or two. The kids enjoy watching the quacking birds, especially the ducklings that chase after their mothers.

More often, we go to Sharon Park, where the pond is much larger, with a paved path encircling it. There are rarely ducks there, but we can usually spot a huge carp (probably a goldfish someone let loose 15 years ago), an occasional turtle and schools of tiny fish. There is also a good playground that is usually empty. The kids bring their scooters or bikes and love to zip around the pond at speeds that startle and amaze. I have to yell at them to slow down so that they avoid hitting the slowly walking seniors in their way. So far, so good, but be warned.

The wide-open spaces of the park inspire me—the lush greenery, the big expanse of water and, most of all, the vast open skies. Media extols the virtue of being outside in nature and when I am there, I understand. I breathe better in this space, feel that my troubles are less and that the future is more positive. There are some areas that are a bit wilder, and I especially enjoy going into them and feeling the bliss of nature.

Mostly, of course, I relish the opportunity to be with my daughter (and sometimes my son-in-law Sam) and their children, and the spirit of freedom and togetherness that permeates the scene. In the beautiful outdoors, the kids are happy and in their element, everyone’s troubles temporarily forgotten, there is more room to feel the innate connection between us. They scream to me, “Watch, Saba!” And I yell back, “Go, go, go!” The best part, though, is when one of them reaches up and takes my hand. Feeling that small hand within my own, the connection between us satisfying and unsaid, there is simply nothing better, and my Sunday is complete.

Essay: The Cowboy on the Can

Words by Sloane Citron

When I was three years old, my parents moved me from the small room next to their downstairs bedroom to our upstairs. There I shared a rather large room with my brother who was five years older. Danny, being a sweet, kind boy (and a sweet, kind man today) welcomed me into his room without a moment’s hesitation.

In our large Southern-style home in Amarillo, Texas, the upstairs was the province of us children, with two large bedrooms with walk-in closets, a spacious play area and a bathroom for us all to share. Our older sister Shelley had her own room, and Danny and I had the other.

The three of us got along as well then as we do now: in sincere harmony. I, of course, did drive my brother crazy at times, like when he was napping on the playroom couch, and I shot a small cap gun into his ear and scared him half to death. I remember with some clarity Danny chasing me through our home before tackling me and calling me some inhospitable names.

Remarkably, he never threw a punch, which he rightly deserved to do.
Sharing the bathroom was never an issue, partly because Danny and I spent as little time in there as possible. We had to be yelled at by our father to take a shower and we did not spend much time brushing our teeth or hair. Shelley had the bathroom mostly to herself and the drawers were filled with girl stuff. I suppose that made her glad that I wasn’t a girl though I’m sure she had hoped differently when I was born.

Our room had two beds, with carefully matching bedspreads, separated by a small wooden nightstand. Alongside the far wall were two dressers, one cabinet and a desk, all matching. Near the beds was a chaise lounge, perfect for tossing our clothes and other belongings. Next to the foot of my bed was a child’s rocking chair that stayed in place long after I’d outgrown it. Three windows brought in plenty of light and provided great views of our neighborhood.

Underneath the small nightstand was a trash can. Oval, made of metal, it featured a cowboy riding his horse with his six-shooter pulled and ready for action. Behind him were mountains, clouds, yellow turf and a red band at the bottom with western icons.

My brother and I managed to preserve most of the items in that bedroom. Dan has most of the dressers and cabinets, while the small rocking chair and the nightstand ended up with me, along with the trash can, which long ago started showing its age with some rust here and a dent there.

As it just so happens, my boys were not so different from Danny and me. When my son Josh, seven years older than his brother Coby, had the choice to have his own room in the home we were building, he asked if he could share it with his brother. So instead of two small bedrooms, we built one large one.

In that room was the little rocking chair, and the same nightstand between their beds that had separated Danny’s and my beds. And underneath that same nightstand—reminiscent of our 1960s-bedroom set-up—was the slightly beat-up cowboy trash can. I appreciated the resemblance of the room to that of my childhood, even if my sons did not.

I thought having my children at home would be a forever thing, but I was wrong—I guess happily. My boys grew up, moved away and have their own homes—their old room empty and longing. By then, the trashcan had grown a bit wearier, with more rust and more dents after another generation of Citron boys had abused it, whether as a basket for a ball game or from an accidental kicking.

One day, after the boys were long gone—though their room stayed exactly the same—I looked at the poor little trash can, and the cowboy seemed sad. Two generations had given him much enjoyment, and now he was just a lonely old ranch hand. I decided that he needed a new home. And while the nightstand and rocking chair are now in my grandson Evan’s room, I moved the trashcan to my study.

And there the slightly rusty, dented, old (vintage, now?) trashcan sits, chipped paint and all, in a prominent spot where I can see it whenever I’m in the room. With many grandchildren running through my study and with me spending a fair amount of time there, I’m happy to report that the cowboy’s spirits have been lifted considerably, his smile has broadened, and he seems ready for some new western adventures.

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