Hand Made

Words by Sheryl Nonnenberg

When Eilish Lancaster was growing up in Dublin, she made most of her own clothes. As one of six children—“a typical Irish family”—necessity dictated that she become handy with a sewing machine, she explains. From these humble beginnings came a love for anything handcrafted, which eventually led to a second career as the owner of Lark San Carlos.

A redhead with a lilting accent, Eilish studied computer science in college and left Dublin for a job with Microsoft. “I was lucky, because I got sent to San Francisco, rather than the headquarters in Seattle,” she says. She worked for the company from 2000 to 2011, then left for a short stint at Amazon, followed by a decade at Google. Eilish enjoyed her work, but says she was ready for a change.

After walking past a shop in San Mateo that offered classes in working with leather, Eilish explored it as a hobby. “I love working with my hands and learning by doing,” she says. When she enrolled in a class in leather crafting at Lark in downtown San Carlos, she met Angela Kalayjian, the store’s owner. Angela had recently announced plans to sell the business and Eilish jumped at the chance for a new career direction. “Opening a store wasn’t necessarily my plan, but I just took it as an opportunity,” she says. “I didn’t have to start from scratch and if I was ever going to do it, it was handed to me on a platter.”

In January, Eilish took over ownership of Lark and quickly began putting her own stamp on the gift shop by focusing on handcrafted goods made by local artists. Through her work on the board of Art Bias, an artist’s collaborative in Redwood City, Eilish was familiar with many artists in the area. She invited some of them to show their art at Lark and soon began hearing from other craftspeople. “Artists are very connected to each other through markets and fairs,” she explains. In less than a year, Eilish says that she has increased the number of artists represented at Lark from 10 to around 40.

Wander around the thoughtful displays that reveal a wealth of works in media including jewelry, ceramics, paintings, woodcrafts, photography and stationery. Eilish says she’s very willing to try things out to see if they will sell. Her experience in the last year has shown that while gallery art (which gets changed monthly) does not sell quickly, “table runners do really well.” Jewelry and other small items have also been very popular. She appears to be on the right track, since Lark was voted the best gift shop in the 2025 Best of San Mateo Awards.

As she gets to know her clientele and strives to offer the right items at the right price point, Eilish is determined to stay true to her goal of offering hand-made objects by local artists and running a store that is ecologically friendly. How does a small shop compete with online giants like Amazon and Etsy? Eilish concedes that trying to run a viable brick-and-mortar business is extremely challenging. “I am not trying to compete with online. I am trying to sell things that are unique and local … things you can’t buy elsewhere.”

Another challenge has been learning how to run a retail business largely on her own. Eilish is the sole person staffing the store every day except Sunday, when she hands it over to a part-time assistant “so I can have a cappuccino with my husband.” She is quick to point out that running the store alone does have its advantages. “I can change what I am doing and shift my focus without having to refer to anyone else. I can be independent and active, so it makes it quite fluid.”

Originally drawn to Lark for a leather workshop, Eilish says she was eager to expand the workshop program. “It fits with what I want the store to be about: meeting people and making things.” There is a regular schedule of classes held on Wednesday evenings, which include making leather totes with Eilish and watercolors with one of the artists whose work is sold in the store. The classes are held in a room behind the shop floor and are small in size, partly due to space considerations but also because she wants students to get individual attention. “It means it can be more personal,” Eilish says.

Recently, she has branched out with offerings that have a wellness focus, like sessions with a life coach and a healing sound bath experience.
Participants hear about the workshops through the store’s website and Instagram. Eilish’s former career in high tech has helped with getting the word out. “I know some of the tricks to getting yourself to show up in the search rankings,” she says with a smile.

Her first Christmas season running Lark will be a learning experience but Eilish plans to present the best in handcrafted goods to customers. “I don’t like waste and disposable things, so there will be some holiday items but things that can be used year-round.” She hopes people will make the trip to Lark with their shopping list. “You are supporting local artists and helping that community to grow and thrive.”

From learning how to sew as a teenager to working in high tech and, now, to owning a store full of handmade objects, Eilish says it feels like life has come full circle. With Lark, she’s able to share the joy of making things while offering a showcase for her fellow handcrafters and artisans. “Craft is important,” she says. “It helps us appreciate our hands as well as our brains.”

shop local – larksancarlos.com

Growing Room

Words by Loureen Murphy

A young San Carlos couple leveraged the adage, “It’s not what you know, but who you know,” to create their dream home. When they bought into the tight-knit White Oaks neighborhood, they envisioned razing and rebuilding. After their friends down the street remodeled, the couple admired the interiors, courtesy of the artful hand of Angela Scaletta of Angela Grace Design. They looked no further.

Because Angela’s new clients “were very aware of who I am, it was a natural fit,” she says. Together, they pursued creating a comfortable, beautiful, long-term home for the couple and their two young sons that fuses indoor and outdoor living, creating a peaceful retreat that inspires togetherness.

Intuitive Angela says that after talking with clients, she has a very good sense of what they want and a knack for making them feel heard. It’s to the point that some actually say, “We don’t even know what we need, but she does.” To keep the project fun and exciting for clients, Angela communicated frequently and remained well-organized. “We kept the process pretty structured,” so the homeowners knew what to expect, she says. Behind the scenes, her small, expert team managed the project’s many complexities.

In this case, Angela prioritized durability because these homeowners, like many of her clients, have young kids. “Any sofa of ours is an outdoor-friendly fabric that you can clean with soap and water,” she explains. Likewise, durable counters, like non-porous, heat- and stain-resistant quartzite in the kitchen and quartz in the boys’ bathroom, are easy upkeep choices for this home.

Angela says she sources from local manufacturers and materials whenever possible. For this project, David Vant Voort of Ripon Woodworks designed and built all the custom cabinets from his East Bay workshop. The advantage? “You get to meet the person and support their business. It’s so much more meaningful,” Angela says.

Describing their relationship as “highly collaborative,” Angela and her clients shared pictures and inspirations over text messages. “We gave the clients options so they had agency in the creative decisions.” Yet they avoided avalanching the homeowners with possibilities by providing just enough to let their tastes and preferences reign.

Though she often curates, Angela sent the couple to Da Vinci Marble in San Carlos, where they found a slab they loved, and made it into the counter and backsplash in their accessory dwelling unit’s bar. Striking a contrast with Benjamin Moore’s deep Essex Green paint on the bar cabinets, it’s now one of the homeowners’ favorite “show and tell” features.

Angela took the architectural indoor-outdoor theme and further personalized it for the family. Light pours into the kitchen from three sides, and the over-sink awning window creates a pass-through to the outdoor counter-bar. It’s perfect for guests or for kids who’d rather stay outside for lunch.

A subtle gem, the media room is framed by steel and glass doors and windows, balancing light with coziness, plush with natural wood accents. The deep blue velvet sofa invites a long sit, and custom cabinets swathed in blue-gray create the viewing screen’s backdrop. On a warm day, the room can open to the backyard. In cooler weather, “it’s like a warm hug,” says Angela.

Nearby, the versatile main floor playroom offers plenty of floor space for children, plus a built-in desk big enough for a parent. The bonus? What appears to be a simple bookcase actually swivels around and drops down as the base of a Murphy bed. The home office upstairs, with its ample cabinets and L-shaped desk, is also a multitasker that will provide a welcoming space for projects and homework when the boys get older.

Missing no opportunities, Angela rendered the home’s most private places unique and memorable. In the main floor’s powder room, a timeless travertine vessel sink is offset by the smooth curves of the Brassy Gold Organik Mirror from Ethnik Living and the bubbly whimsy of the Orbet 5-Light Pendant from Visual Comfort. Wrapped in San Francisco-based Color Atelier’s Natural Linen Limewash, the room evokes a Mediterranean vibe.

The ADU’s powder room also makes a statement with its ribbed black sink above two-toned diamond flooring surrounded by Benjamin Moore’s Revere Pewter walls. And in the top floor’s primary bath, Angela highlighted the dramatic western view—think sunsets over mountains—aptly placing the soaking tub and shower to maximize refreshment of body and spirit. It’s a client favorite.

Even more than lovely spaces, Angela relishes the relationships she builds over the course of a project and its many conversations. In this instance, she
drew close to the clients as she fulfilled their vision for a comfortable, multi-functional home. With such designer-client synergy, their dream of “a home the kids can grow into” became a solid reality.

growing room – angelagracedesign.com

Wild Wonder

Words by Johanna Harlow

As a child, Susan McConnell fondly recounts visits to a colony of wood rats who’d taken up residence in a collapsed barn near her family’s home. “I spent hours as a little girl watching them,” Susan recalls, a twinkle in her eyes. “They were so interesting—all their behaviors!” Ardent about creatures great and small, she devoured animal books like Black Beauty and Old Yeller, and cared for a plethora of pets (hamsters, gerbils, parakeets, canaries, fish, lizards, dogs, horses … anything her parents would allow). It’s no great shock that Susan became a wildlife photographer. When she’s not plunging into the jungles of Central America, the savannas of sub-Saharan Africa or the tundra of the high Arctic to capture images of the wild and the wonderful, she works as a neuroscientist and biology professor at Stanford University.

Susan’s images invite you in—from a pair of tussling fox cubs or a horde of sea lions jockeying for position on the rocks to a baby elephant trundling beside its mother’s legs or a cheetah solemnly locking eyes with the viewer. And she doesn’t shy away from nature’s visceral side with her unflinching depictions of the hunt. On an upcoming trip to Tanzania’s Nyerere National Park to encounter newborn impalas, Susan notes, “It’s a big buffet for predators, for wild dogs, for lions, for leopards. I know, it’s sad. But it’s a wonderful time of year. Everything’s green and very pretty, and the animals are very active because life is everywhere.”

Field Trips

For several years, Susan served as a docent at Año Nuevo. “It’s such a soap opera,” she says of all those elephant seals galumphing up the shore for the breeding and birthing seasons. But she notes a particular fondness for the slow days during the off-season. “For me, it was amazing to feel the rhythm of the tide,” she says—the literal rise and fall of the water, but also the daily rituals of the animals, like the coyote who would trot down the beach looking for lunch around the same time every day.

Susan’s deep fascination with creatures and their habits produces a trait that’s crucial for wildlife photography: patience. Waiting for hours to capture the right moment isn’t a chore for her. “The more time you spend in the field, the better the images you are able to get,” Susan explains. “A lot of the best images are going to happen within a heartbeat. The more you understand animal behavior, the more you can predict when those things might happen and be ready for it.”

What does Susan hope to elicit with these glimpses into the wild life? “To try to give people a sense of connection, empathy, respect, awe for these incredible animals, whether it is a dung beetle or a leopard, a red-eyed tree frog or an elephant,” she shares. “Stephen J. Gould, I think said it best … ‘We will not fight to save what we do not love.’”

A New Lens on Life

Susan didn’t always aspire to be a photographer. It took a trip to the high Arctic for her to fully warm up to the idea. “I was really ambivalent about having the box—the camera—in front of my face, and whether that was distancing me from the experience or bringing me into the experience,” she recalls. While on a voyage to Svalbard 20 years ago, Susan spotted polar bears jumping from ice flow to ice flow. Joining other photographers on the deck with her recently bought digital camera, she started snapping away—and couldn’t seem to stop. That day, Susan discovered there was an art to timing the shot, to pressing the shutter down just as the polar bear rocked back her weight and made the leap. “My lens kept fogging up and my fingers were so numb from cold that I couldn’t actually feel the shutter button anymore. And despite all of that, there was this moment where I just had this epiphany: That I have never been happier in my entire life,” she recalls.

Since then, Susan’s images have been used by National Geographic (in the magazine, books and website). Another of her photos of a young bull elephant—ears fanned out, eyes alert as he observes his observers safely ensconced in their concrete bunker—made the cover of Smithsonian Magazine.

This powerful pachyderm picture resulted from a collaboration with Stanford ecologist and author Caitlin O’Connell-Rodwell on a feature story about the relationships of bull elephants in Namibia. “It was the first time that I’ve gotten a formal assignment from a magazine, first and last really,” says Susan, explaining that photographers who do this kind of work full-time can spend months, even years, developing a story. “It takes a level of devotion and commitment that I cannot tell you how much I admire,” she says. But it’s not what drives her. “What I really love is working with conservation organizations and teaching,” she reflects.

Untamed Encounters

Venturing into out-of-the-way places for encounters with the untamed comes with a level of unpredictability. “With wildlife, it’s their world and their rules,” Susan emphasizes. “The last thing we want to do is disrupt the animals’ lives, disturb their behavior.” Even so, close calls come with the territory. On a horseback safari, “[we were] treated by a pride of lions as if we were buffalo,” Susan recalls. “I’ve been chased in vehicles by elephants and by rhinos. I’ve been chased in a canoe by a hippo. That was a heart-pounder.” Susan says it’s imperative to find a guide with a healthy respect for the wild and the expertise to keep both you and the animals safe.

Environment also plays a factor. “There are certain parts of Alaska, like Lake Clark and Brooks Falls, where there’s a lot of food around and the bears don’t really care about people and you can get really close,” Susan says. Take that assumption elsewhere, however, and you could find yourself in a sticky situation.

Respecting nature’s wildness is also crucial out in the briny deep. Susan brings up another anecdote, this one a tale about a whale. “Some of the whales can be quite … playful?” Susan chuckles as she recalls swimming with humpbacks and their calves in Tonga. “There was this one female whale who wanted to play with us. She was like a big puppy—and it was terrifying. We were like, ‘Get us out of the water now. We do not want to play with the whale!” The whale had Susan so preoccupied, she was unaware that another one was headed her way. “I ended up being directly in his path,” she says. Looking down, she saw a semi-truck-sized body passing inches beneath her. “I tucked into a cannonball and he swam his entire body length right underneath me!” If the whale had chosen to dive and struck Susan with its tail, the impact could have been lethal. Instead, “very gently, he lifted his left fluke and tapped my thigh,” she says. Just a gentle greeting from a friendly giant.

Nature Vs. Nurture

Susan’s life isn’t all grand adventures and close calls. When she’s not heading out on safari, she’s teaching classes at Stanford or studying neural circuits and brain development. She’s always found herself intrigued by the age-old question of nature versus nurture. (“What things do you just do because it’s programmed? And what things do we have to be taught?”)

“I think about these two parts of my life as two different trees that have grown out of the same root system, and that’s a love of animal behavior,” muses Susan, who has also achieved the honor of being elected as a member of the National Academy of Sciences. The class she finds most rewarding to teach is conservation photography and she’s led three-week conservation courses overseas through Stanford, helping students get hands-on as they head into the field. “Getting people to care and to be curious,” Susan says, is the best way to ensure that wildlife survives and thrives.

Inspiring Stories

While her love for animals certainly drives her, there’s another influence that’s impacted Susan’s trajectory, this one human. “When I was little, I discovered a stack of National Geographic magazines piled up next to my grandparents’ television set,” she recalls. In those pages, Susan came across Jane Goodall, the primatologist studying chimpanzee societies and behavior in remote Tanzania. “For me, that was one of the most romantic things,” Susan says. “She is the reason that I’m a scientist.” She adds, “I didn’t have any scientists in my family. It had never occurred to me that this was even an option.”

She’s certainly made her parents proud. In 2012, Susan and her mom visited the Smithsonian National Museum of Natural History, where one of Susan’s photos was displayed. The image—a touching moment of a baby elephant being rescued from a water trough through the combined efforts of mother and aunts—was selected by Windland Smith Rice International Awards for the Nature’s Best Photography contest. “It was so much fun because we’d be lurking in the gallery to see who might interact with my photo,” Susan chuckles. “Every time [my mom] saw someone who would stop and look at my photo, she would spring up from the bench that we were sitting on and rush over and say, ‘My daughter took that photo and she’s sitting right there!’”

wild at heart – susankmcconnell.com

Yosemite Sparkles

Words by Andrea Gemmet

The setting sun stains the clifftops surrounding Yosemite Falls with a terracotta glow as the moon hangs in the sky. After gazing to our heart’s content, my husband and I amble back through the meadow, pausing to take a family portrait for a pair of doting grandparents posing with mom, dad and new baby. On this January evening, they’re the only other people sharing the path with us.

You’ve probably heard the cautionary tales about Yosemite Valley in the summer—traffic jams, overflowing parking lots, shuttles filled to capacity—but in wintertime, California’s favorite national park returns to its idealized state: a peaceful getaway rather than an open-air mosh pit. The mountain air is just as invigorating in the off-season, dramatic landscapes and towering trees just as inspiring as they are when the weather’s warm.

My husband and I decided to recreate the trip we took back when our daughter was a Goldfish cracker-guzzling preschooler who dreamed of playing in snow. Convinced that our crumb-covered backseat would lure hungry bears, we parked at the Amtrak train station near Oakland’s Jack London Square and rode the rails to Merced, where we transferred to a waiting Yosemite Area Regional Transportation System (YARTS) bus. Without the stress of driving, we could relax as the road skirted the banks of the Merced River and followed its tumbling course up into the mountains.

Now, with our daughter away at college, the two of us got to spend all day exploring without having to schedule our activities around naptime. Even though our backseat is a whole lot cleaner these days, we still opted for a car-free adventure. Our YARTS bus driver, an outgoing New Englander, cheerfully pointed out the highlights as we rumbled toward the park: Bridal Veil Falls, Dog Rock, the Three Brothers, El Capitán (CAPPY-tan, if you’re from Boston) and Yosemite Falls.


We hopped off the bus at the Yosemite Valley Lodge and got settled into our second-floor room before strolling over to Lower Yosemite Falls before dinner. As we soaked in the scenery, the roaring water provided a soothing soundtrack while clouds grew rosy and the sun sank behind the cliffs. It was the perfect start to a relaxing three-day winter weekend in one of California’s most beautiful places.

When there’s snow at Badger Pass Ski Area, a new way to experience Yosemite’s mountains emerges. Just catch a shuttle from the valley floor and enjoy the scenery before gearing up to plunge downhill on skis or snowboards. If quiet contemplation mixed with strenuous exercise is more your speed, you can rent equipment for cross-country skiing and snowshoeing, or strap on skates down in the valley at Curry Village’s seasonal outdoor ice rink.

On our sunny-but-chilly stay, we had to scrap plans for cross-country skiing—a lack of snow ended up keeping Badger Pass closed all winter—but the conditions were perfect for hiking. After spending so much time watching the falls, we tested our mettle on the Upper Yosemite Falls Trail. Catching glimpses of Half Dome and the cascading torrent through gaps in the oak trees, we navigated the winding granite steps, skirting loose rocks and fat acorns littering the ground. There’s nothing like an uphill climb to warm you up and make you appreciate the chill in the air.
The wide, level trail to Mirror Lake, a two-mile out-and-back along Temaya Creek with no climbing required, calls for a more relaxed pace. The shallow water revealed flecks of fool’s gold shimmering on the lake bed and patches of ice ringed its shadowed shoreline under a breathtakingly blue sky.

Working up an appetite

In winter, make an early dinner reservation at the Mountain Room, so you can enjoy the view of Yosemite Falls from its floor-to-ceiling windows before it gets too dark to see. On our visit, the house-made focaccia came with lemon-scallion butter, whetting our appetites for entrées of trout nestled in purple potato puree accompanied by zesty cranberry relish, and a juicy sirloin steak with Delmonico potatoes.

While Mountain Room is one of the more upscale eateries in the park, it does offer a kids’ menu, though you’re more likely to be among families at the casual Mountain Room Lounge. Open for dinner daily and lunch on weekends, you can roast marshmallows around the crackling fireplace and order from a pared-down list of starters and main courses.

For fine dining, Yosemite’s grande dame is The Ahwahnee, and even if you don’t score a dinner reservation (or failed to pack “proper attire”), your hiking gear won’t raise an eyebrow at the daily breakfast buffet. Completed in 1927, the hotel is worth a visit for its unique blend of Art Deco, Craftsman and Native American influences. The dining room pairs rough-hewn granite and a soaring pine-trussed ceiling with white tablecloths and Gothic-inspired chandeliers, yet somehow, it all works.

The Base Camp Eatery, decorated with mountain climbing regalia, offers all-day fast-casual fare at the Yosemite Lodge. Curry Village has several fast-casual options, as does Yosemite Village, home of Degnan’s Kitchen, the Village Grill and the Village Store, though several other eateries are only open in the summertime.

Art in the Park

The beautifully curated Ansel Adams Gallery is one of Yosemite’s indoor highlights. A family business since 1902 and founded by Ansel’s father-in-law, it celebrates the life and work of the famed photographer whose dramatic black-and-white images defined Yosemite in the popular imagination. It’s the exclusive source for Ansel’s Yosemite Special Edition, iconic photographs printed from his original negatives. During an illuminating conversation with the gallery’s curator, he shows us how Ansel marked up his negatives with notations for developing prints to his exacting specifications. The gallery represents 20 other artists devoted to capturing Yosemite’s splendor and carries a thoughtfully curated array of pottery, books and posters.

Dig deeper into the area’s history at the Yosemite Museum. Its indoor and outdoor exhibits and cultural demonstrations focus on the native Miwok and Paiute people, while Yosemite Village’s Exploration Center hosts rotating exhibits and a film about the park.

Whether blanked in snow, sparkling with frost or crisp and sunny, an off-season excursion makes it easy to appreciate the natural beauty of one of America’s most-visited national parks.

winter wonderland – yosemite.com

Class-y Resorts

Words by Andrea Gemmet

What kind of traveler are you? When life gets hectic, maybe you dream of a quick escape to a beautiful resort where you can relax and indulge in a little pampering. Or does the thought of so much uninterrupted downtime make you antsy? At Cavallo Point Resort and Ritz Carlton Half Moon Bay, unique classes offer a chance to try something new while enjoying top-notch amenities, gracious guest rooms and fine dining. They’re perfect for those who thirst to learn new skills—and prefer doing it in gorgeous surroundings.

Food with a View

I step inside the historic barracks that once housed Fort Baker’s enlisted soldiers, awaiting instructions from a man in uniform. Our leader Tim Grable, resplendent in chef’s whites, issues us sturdy Cavallo Point aprons and glasses of wine. After we’ve fortified ourselves at the charcuterie board, he addresses the troops and goes over our plan of attack. The mission? To get our hands dirty making a variety of tasty dishes under the patient tutelage of this friendly former director of Le Cordon Bleu College of Culinary Arts in San Francisco. Once our mission is completed, we’ll assemble around the huge dinner table and enjoy the fruits of our labor.

Now part of the Golden Gate National Recreation Area, Cavallo Point Resort in Sausalito occupies the decommissioned Army base at the mouth of the Golden Gate—a strategically important location with unbeatable scenic value. Hugging the hilly rise above the Marin Headlands, it’s hard to look away from the ever-changing view of the Golden Gate Bridge as the fog advances and retreats while ships sail past and San Francisco’s skyline gleams from across the Bay. Spread across a mix of historic and newer buildings, Cavallo Point has all the amenities, from tranquil day spa and gym to top-notch restaurants and a fleet of e-bikes for exploring the trails. But for any foodie, the pièce de résistance is the Cavallo Point Cooking School.

Cover Photo and Cooking Photo Courtesy of: Ritz Carlton Half Moon Bay

I’ve come for the Global Dumpling Adventure class, trying my hand at stuffing empanadas with crumbled chorizo, rolling out tender samosa dough flecked with nigella seeds, crimping the edges of potato pierogi and wrestling Nepali momo into their distinctive round shape. My husband is busy cranking out shrimp gyoza like a pro at one of the stations laid out at the back of the room. Our fellow students have also come in pairs, from couples on a date to anniversary outings and no fewer than four birthday celebrations, which inspires an impromptu toast and a boisterous round of singing. One fellow student tells me she’s here for the seventh time, and it’s easy to see why she keeps coming back. It’s a convivial evening with a friendly group, and the range of cooking classes designed by Chef Tim is broad and tantalizing: Spanish Table, Seoul Food Sunday, Lunch in Paris, Izakaya Favorites and Destination Sicily, to name just a few.

After we polish off our dessert of Fuji apple hand-pies and head back to our spacious room, the turndown service has lowered the shades and closed the curtains but we can’t resist poking our heads out onto the balcony for one last look at that spectacular view before turning in for the night.

Savoring Sausalito – Cavallopoint.com

Photography Courtesy of: Ritz Carlton Half Moon Bay

Ball’s in Your Court

The Ritz Carlton Half Moon Bay may boast an eye-catching golf course overlooking the Pacific’s crashing surf, but I’ve got my eyes on a bigger ball. A pickleball, to be precise. After years of hearing about “the fastest growing sport in America,” it takes the Ritz’s pickleball package to get me out on the court. One of the oceanside resort’s more unique offerings, it comes with a paddle, court time and an hour’s instruction from the in-house pro, Kevin Harrington.

Since I haven’t enjoyed (or even attempted) a racket sport since high school badminton, I bring along my 22-year-old daughter who took tennis lessons as a child. I’m counting on her competence as a distraction if I turn out to be completely hopeless. I shouldn’t have worried. Kevin proves to be an excellent teacher, with a knack for delivering clear directions and confidence-building praise. He swiftly takes us through the basics and before we know it, we’re doing well enough to play an entire singles game. A miracle has happened: I’m having fun.

I now know where to find the kitchen, how to dink and that the rules for when a ball is out are much more forgiving than they are in tennis. I may not be fully converted, but now I understand why people like pickleball so much. And you can’t beat the location of the Ritz Carlton’s outdoor courts. The Coastside’s cool breezes and fog-filtered sunlight have never felt more welcome than when you’re darting around the court working up a sweat.

Photography Courtesy of: Ritz Carlton Half Moon Bay

We reward ourselves with a three-course dinner at Navio (five, if you count the amuse-bouche and delectable mignardises), savoring the exquisitely prepared dishes and attentive service along with the dramatic sunset view of coastal cliffs, white-topped waves, lush golf greens and peach-tinted fog. We also have a great view of the hotel’s bagpiper, who plays a nightly serenade to the setting sun. Sated, we head to our room, the gleaming marble bathroom’s soaking tub the perfect balm for tired muscles.
Throughout our visit, the Ritz Carlton’s vaunted hospitality is on full display. Everyone at the Ritz is referred to as a lady or a gentleman—the staff, the guests, probably even the dogs—and treated accordingly.

No visit is complete without a stroll along the property’s coastal trail, so after indulging in room-service breakfast the next morning, we head out to stretch our legs and fill our lungs with fresh ocean air before heading home.

Have a Ball – Ritzcarlton.com

A Cut Above

Words by Johanna Harlow

Within OLHSO’s sophisticated dining room, lamps bathe dark marble tabletops in a warm glow, while a wraparound projection on the room’s walls transports diners to Korea with a sunset scene and silhouettes of red pines, a shower of flower petals, stone lanterns and a Buddhist temple. Black-clad servers whisk around this upscale Korean barbecue restaurant, ferrying fresh cuts of meat in segmented boxes to the tables and cooking the meat over the built-in grills as sizzling sounds and savory aromas fill the air.

In Korean, OLHSO translates to “That’s right,” says co-owner Jay Shin, who handles the San Mateo restaurant’s strategy and business side. “It’s like an exclamation mark when you have great food or you meet the right people.” He adds, “If you take out each character separately, it means ‘every part of the beef.’” Though they also serve pork and noodle dishes like japchae and bibim-naengmyeon, the cow is king here. Over the course of their meal, diners can experience most of the main cuts of beef, from tongue to tail.

Jay has joined forces with Chef Han Sungil to make OLHSO shine. Long a fan of Han’s culinary prowess, Jay explains that Han is well-known in Korea and has run 19 restaurants from Seoul to Jeju Island. He’s made more than 20 TV appearances and his Ushiya was identified as a “must-visit Korean beef BBQ restaurant” on Wednesday Food Talk. “I was a watcher of that show many years ago,” Jay explains. “That was the only TV program you couldn’t bribe. You couldn’t throw money to be on that show. They were very strict on that.”

As a teen, a conversation Han had with his mother was pivotal to his future career path. She pointed out that book smarts weren’t his strength. Would he consider pursuing sports or cooking instead? Han agreed to attend culinary school, but found the lessons uninspired. They taught what already worked, not what truly stood out. Han dared to be creative, choosing to forge his own path and find his own flavor rather than copy the latest food trends. He found a hands-on education in professional kitchens to be far superior.

While Han was starting to make a name for himself, Jay was living in Singapore—and whenever he traveled with others to Korea, he’d take them to Han’s restaurant. “Singapore is a multinational country. You have a lot of U.S. citizens over there, Europeans, Asians, Australians,” Jay explains. “So if all my people I brought to this restaurant love his food, it’s got to work in the States!”

Did Han adapt his cooking to cater to American palates upon arriving in the Bay Area? “After a lot of consideration, I wanted to keep it as authentic as possible, so I didn’t change anything from how I’ve done it in Korea,” says Han in Korean, with Jay translating. “I want to showcase it in the most authentic way.”

Easier said than done. Jay explains that the high quality of Korean beef is well-known throughout Asia—but unfortunately, it can’t be imported to the States. How did they overcome this hurdle and achieve a similar taste? “The answer is all about aging the beef,” says Han, explaining the impact that moisture levels can have on the meat.

The grilling process is also key in recreating a taste of home. At OLHSO, there are two experiences. Diners can either opt for the traditional tableside grilling or order plates cooked in the charcoal-fueled Emberhaus oven in the kitchen, which gives dishes a smoky depth that can’t be achieved with a gas grill. “If you go to Korea and Japan, most of the high-end barbecue places only use charcoal. Nobody uses gas over there,” says Jay. In contrast, “the U.S. is typically very harsh on charcoal usage in the restaurant so now you don’t get much of a charcoal flavor in the barbecue scene in the U.S.”

Undeterred, OLHSO worked with the fire and health departments so they could bring dishes cooked with high-grade charcoal to their guests.
The grill isn’t the only thing that imparts a distinctive taste. “I’m trying to showcase different sauces to pair with each different cut and create a variety of flavors,” says Han. “I believe each cut has its own unique taste.”

Fatty skirt steak, for example, pairs perfectly with a yuzu-wasabi sauce that cuts through the greasiness. Beef tongue is highlighted by a green scallion sauce, while the short ribs are sweetened with plum sauce. Though Han’s food is proudly and authentically Korean, the Chinese and Japanese ingredients in his sauces lend a refreshing, contemporary appeal. “I’ve spent time working with Japanese cuisine, and that experience naturally shaped how I think about flavor,” says Han. “Korea and Japan are neighboring countries, so there’s always been some exchange between the two, but now I’m really focused on developing and expressing my own Korean style.”

Not only does OLHSO keep things contemporary, it boldly strides into the future. The brand has launched a robotic food truck where the driver is the only human on board. Orders are cooked on the go as the truck calculates the distance to the destination. When the timing is right, robot arms whisk ingredients from the fridge into woks that look like dryers on a spin cycle. They’re all programmed with Han’s original recipes and strive for that perfect touch of char.

Futuristic as all this may sound, Han’s favorite part of his job is very human. As the chef considers what he loves most about what he does, he smiles and answers simply: “Drinking and talking with customers!” Then he rolls up his sleeves and returns to the kitchen.

Craveable Kimchi

Kimchi, a signature Korean classic, has a place of honor on the OLHSO menu. “We have hundreds of different types of kimchi in Korea. Whereas here, if you talk about kimchi, they only think of one,” says Jay. OLHSO offers the familiar red kimchi with cabbage as well as a white kimchi with the spicy chili paste rinsed off. The restaurant also serves radish and romaine varieties.

beef up – olhsohouse.com

Oven Fresh

Words by Jennifer Jory

It’s 5AM at Bonjour Bakehouse and oven timers are sounding off simultaneously. The smell of freshly baked croissants and cookies wafts through the air. “It’s madness,” confesses François Bernaudin, describing the December morning when he and his co-owner, Ingrid Sarlandie, attempted to make 8,000 cookies in a single day at their San Mateo bakery.

“Bakers are flying between eight different stations and it’s like a hornet’s nest,” he reveals. “I make sure everyone has their coffee so they can be on fire. I try to coordinate everything so we all work toward the same goal.”

During the holiday season, François and Ingrid need to perform something of a Christmas miracle, baking and packaging nearly 40,000 cookies a week that are then shipped all across the country. When the orders start streaming in, they rely on support wherever they can find it. “If we say we aren’t going to make it, we have so many people who volunteer to help,” Ingrid says. François’s teenage children bring their friends, Ingrid’s family joins in—even grandmothers visiting from France have pitched in to fill boxes.


But the bakery’s business extends beyond cookie deliveries. Peninsula locals can satisfy their carb cravings at Bonjour Bakehouse Cafe, where flaky, buttery pastries are served hot from the oven daily. “I don’t get home with a bag of bacon scones without eating one in the car,” says customer Patty Mayer. “They are to die for and worth every calorie.” The menu includes dozens of options, from chocolatine croissants to scones flavored with smoked salmon or pear and cardamom. The coffee menu includes traditional espresso drinks plus inventive offerings such as Tokyo Fog Matcha and Ginger & Turmeric Chai. François scours the San Mateo Farmers Market for fruit and vegetables for their seasonal flavors and claims he would not step foot in most local grocery stores. “We would never use ingredients that are not the top,” he declares.

The French duo have another mission beyond baking—to share the connection they felt growing up with the people who made their food. “In France, when you go to the bakery, you know the owner,” says François. “This is what is missing here in the U.S.” Adds Ingrid, “We are part of the community here, and we know what is going on in our customers’ lives.”

Their patrons, in turn, feel a sense of connection and have even called from the freeway asking to reserve their favorite pastry. When Ingrid had to break the news to a regular customer that they were no longer able to make his favorite olallieberry scones, he offered to drive to Pescadero, pick up the berries and deliver them to the bakery himself.

François’s passion for baking began as a child in France, where he remembers the aroma of croissants hanging in the morning air in his neighborhood. “I was lucky enough to be raised in Bordeaux and the Basque Country,” he says. “There were phenomenal bakers and I would go to the farmers markets on a regular basis by myself or with my parents.”

A self-confessed gourmet and foodie, he says his happy place is in the kitchen. As a trained pastry chef, François studied and apprenticed for six years in France before working at top French restaurants in Tokyo, bakeries in Canada and finally as executive pastry chef at the Ritz Carlton in San Francisco. “The food scene in France is a very high-pressure, super demanding environment to work in,” François confesses. “The French pastry chef I worked for at the Ritz used the intense French style in the kitchen and it didn’t go over well in America,” he says. “We had HR coming to the kitchen on a regular basis.” Eventually, La Boulange bakery hired François to open several shops before he launched Bonjour Bakehouse at San Mateo’s KitchenTown, a professional kitchen and incubator for culinary startups.

Ingrid brings business savvy to the partnership and her role requires her to make the tough decisions, like ending the bakery’s bread-making. “We made the best baguette I had ever had in the U.S.,” Ingrid says. “But it was costing too much.” While François was vacationing in France, she axed the bread program and broke the news to him when he returned.

Growing up in France, while Ingrid inherited a love for baking from her mother and grandmother, she pursued a mechanical engineering degree and wound up in Silicon Valley. She rose through the ranks working in management consulting and startups. “I burned myself out and needed to do something different,” she confesses. Ingrid decided to earn her baking certification and went back to France for the rigorous two-year training.

When François and Ingrid need to run taste tests, they rely on their families and friends as critics. “Our kids are foodies and always tell us what is missing in a dish,” says Ingrid with a smile. “We had some tasting sessions and invited our families and they were very strict with us.” Their friends have high expectations and demand perfection, she says. “They told us we could do better.” With the critics satisfied, the San Mateo Chamber of Commerce recently declared Bonjour Bakehouse the Best Bakery in San Mateo.

What makes the food culture so strong in France? Ingrid points to the schools and the way French children are raised. “From the ages of 3 to 18 years you are seated at a table of six kids and served one meal at lunch,” she describes. ”You sit for 30 minutes and have to try everything, sometimes crazy stuff.” At home, many children spend time in the kitchen in France as well and there is an emphasis on eating together.

Ingrid and François plan to expand locally and say they are ready to bring baguettes back to the menu sometime soon. “I believe in making a few things really, really well,” François sums up. “I need to make food—it is
my world.”

pastry pros – bonjourbakehouse.com

The Beat on Your Eats: Burmese Restaurants

Bold Burmese Bits.

burma love

Menlo Park

Seeking an upscale environment? Burma Love’s striking gold and green interior fits the bill, with lights like dandelions and artful flourishes everywhere you turn. With standout sauces that catapult dishes to the next level, you’ll want to dip Burmese fritters with kabocha in a spicy tamarind sauce and flaky roti in a savory chicken curry. From the tasty garlic noodles to the minced chicken with mango and mint, it’s hard to go wrong here. There’s also a terrific tea leaf salad. The restaurant’s take on this beloved Burmese classic, a medley of fermented tea leaves, mixed nuts and seeds, beans and garlic on a bed of sweet Baby Gem lettuce, was voted “Best of the West” in the salad category by Sunset Magazine. 1302 El Camino Real. Open daily.

mingalaba

Burlingame

A longtime favorite, this Burmese and Mandarin restaurant serves up delectable dishes in a casual-yet-inviting space decorated with rattan chairs, canary-yellow walls and an eclectic array of art and light fixtures. Playing up dishes with fresh, tropical fruit, Mingalaba adorns salads and noodles with papaya and mango. Seeking that quintessential cold-weather comfort food? The catfish chowder with lemongrass and ginger or the pumpkin curry with tender bites of chicken might be just the thing. And if you’ve never tried blooming jasmine flower tea before, watch as the leafy green tea ball unfurls as soon as it hits the hot water, revealing lovely pink and yellow flowers within. 1213 Burlingame Avenue. Open daily.

rangoon ruby

Palo Alto / San Carlos

Known for its attentive service and beautiful presentation, Rangoon Ruby’s two Peninsula locations boast authentic Burmese cuisine with a fresh, modern approach. Settle in with one of the signature Tiki cocktails, like Burmese Python and Tipsy Monkey, or opt for fresh baby coconut juice. You can taste the influences of Chinese, Thai and Indian cooking in dishes like salt-and-pepper squid, mango tofu with coconut rice and palata, a soft and flaky flatbread served with dipping sauce. Try the Burmese twist on pad thai or go for the nan gyi dock—traditional rice noodles in coconut chicken sauce, topped with hardboiled egg and crispy fried wontons. Vegetarian dishes are clearly marked on the menu and gluten-free options are plentiful. 445 Emerson Street; 680 Laurel Street. Open daily.

Landmark: Stone River

Words by Johanna Harlow

Located a stone’s throw from Stanford University’s Rodin Sculpture Garden and the Cantor Arts Center, a testament to finding beauty among the ruins is tucked away in a grove of trees. Stone River, a series of stones winding along a trench carved in the earth, was created in 2001 by British sculptor Andy Goldsworthy using debris from the 1906 and 1989 earthquakes. Andy paid a visit to Stanford’s “boneyard,” a place off Old Page Mill Road where the college housed the rubble of university buildings destroyed by this terrible twosome of natural disasters. With the assistance of eight “wallers” skilled in the ancient craft of laying stonework without mortar (called dry-stone), Andy took 128 tons of rock and transformed it into this 320-foot-long art installation in 2001. The top of the wall is at ground level and situated along an east-west orientation, creating a constant shift of shadow and light playing off the golden hue of the sandstone. The earthbound design is meant to look like an archaeological excavation and there’s certainly something primeval about the way Stone River narrows at its peak, like the spine of a massive snake. The stonework tapers gradually at both ends, submerging into the dust whence it came. “My use of the stone has in some ways returned the stone to the earth—another leg of its journey,” the artist wrote in his journal.

Essay: Holiday Wishes

Words by Sloane Citron

Throughout her life, my mother made sure that she sent out holiday cards, no matter where she was living at the time. Though her family thought it was a rather unusual thing to do, she felt that it helped her stay in touch with the hundreds of friends she’d made over the course of her remarkable life.

Her childhood was spent practicing the violin for hours daily, by herself and with the top instructors of her day. By age 16, she had her own CBS radio show and then left for the Julliard School, where she was invited to study on a full scholarship with Louis Persinger, noted instructor of such luminaries as Yehudi Menuhin, Ruggiero Ricci and Isaac Stern.

My mother became the first concert violinist to join the USO and spent several years during World War II entertaining the troops in dozens of nations, narrowly escaping with her life on multiple occasions.
From there she married my father, first living in—of all places— Amarillo, Texas, then Chicago and finally Houston, where she was one of the top female symphony violinists in the nation.

Along this path, she became friends with countless people, from her students to the celebrities with whom she performed. My mom valued those relationships, so every fall, she would start spending long hours writing personal notes to all her friends, asking about their children, their lives, their careers.

She kept a special book with every name and address of those who were card-worthy. Along with the entries (always in pencil, so she could update their information as necessary) were the details of their lives: how she knew them, their children, their work.

In return for this annual exercise, she received a huge number of cards in return, some for Hanukkah, some for Christmas, some just in friendship. She loved displaying the cards throughout her home. One of my favorite activities when I would visit her at this time of year was reading the dozens and dozens of cards, seeing the love and friendship so many people had for my mother.

A few years ago, as my mother’s health was failing, I went to go see her. I was in the cab, riding from the Houston airport to my mother’s home, when my phone rang. It was my brother, Dan, telling me that she had died an hour before. It was such an odd feeling, traveling in the back of a cab with a stranger at the wheel while I quietly cried in the back seat.

When I arrived, her caretaker was in the living room with a couple of my mother’s friends. In the bedroom, where she died, lay my mother. I went in and sat with her for several hours until the undertakers came. It felt very strange after they’d left, staying in my mother’s home all alone. In the kitchen, on the breakfast room table, lay a stack of half-finished cards.

My mother always said, “Things happen for a reason.” In this case, the reason for my visit was to say goodbye to my mother and to finish those cards. I wanted to complete my mom’s mission for her, one last time. I wrote a letter, made 200 copies and then sent them out with the cards to everyone in her address book. I explained what had happened, how important these cards were to my mom, and how much she loved and appreciated the wonderful relationships she had made.

I teared up a few times during the several days that it took me to complete this task. When my work was done and the last of the cards had been dropped in the mailbox, I returned home to celebrate the holidays with my family.

So, let me emulate my dear mother here. These holidays are about warmth, kindness and staying connected. I’m grateful to all you fine people who read my essays, write me sweet notes and think of me as a friend. I feel the same about all of you.

Happy Hanukkah and Christmas! May your holidays be filled with sweetness and light.

Q&A: Santa Claus

Santa (AKA Kris Kringle) spills secrets about life at the North Pole, pro tips for fixing up the ol’ sleigh and why he’s stopped giving coal to naughty kids.

When’s the last time you upgraded your sleigh?
I’ve been flying this beauty since 1903. They don’t make them like this anymore, with hand-carved maple trim and red velvet upholstery. I added a cupholder back in the ‘90s and an electric seat warmer in 2005. That seat warmer is a total game-changer.

Is there any truth to the rumors that Waymo is working on an electric driverless sleigh?
I would never replace my hardworking team of reindeer!

So you haven’t seen reports that your own reindeer are backing this technology?
Just a moment … “Crumpet! Drop everything and go tell the reindeer that we’re doubling their daily ration of carrots, effective immediately!” To answer your question: I have no comment at this time.

What are a few of your favorite things?
Tiny marshmallows in my hot cocoa, a clear night when the aurora borealis lights up the sky and a long weekend with Mrs. Claus at our time-share in Barbados.

What’s the strangest gift you’ve ever been given?
A necktie. Do I look like a necktie guy? I’ve never worn a tie in my life!

What’s the dumbest way you’ve gotten injured?
I got distracted by a spectacular shooting star and walked right into a satellite dish while on a rooftop in Kuala Lumpur.

Do you collect anything?
Tropical fish.

What does Mrs. Claus do that warms your heart?
She always has words of encouragement and hugs for the elves. And I love her laugh—it’s exactly like mine. I know I’m home when I hear her resounding “Ho ho ho!”

Who’s your favorite reindeer?
That’s like choosing a favorite child. I love them all equally.

Why did you stop giving coal to naughty children?
Coal makes a real mess, so I’ve been swapping it out for a renewable resource: stale fruitcakes.

What’s the wildest thing you’ve ever done?
I once visited the Abominable Snowman’s ice cave on a dare. Let’s just say I won’t be doing shots of peppermint schnapps with my buddies again any time soon. Abby (that’s his nickname, we’re friends now) can be pretty scary when he’s ticked off.

When’s the last time you saw Buddy the elf?
I see him every summer. He and his family bought a condo next to ours in Barbados. If you thought his tights didn’t leave much to the imagination, you should see his bathing suit!

What’s life like up at the North Pole?
The commute to work can get a little hectic with dodging all those polar bears and walruses. Plus Jack Frost is always nipping at your nose … but I wouldn’t want to live anywhere else. The view of frozen tundra and the Northern Lights never gets old.

What is your favorite day of the year?
December 26.

Diary of a Dog: Rincon

I’m Rincon, an Alaskan husky mix with a hard-luck story that has a very happy ending. I once wandered the lonely streets of Redwood City as a skinny stray. My whole life changed after my first birthday, when I was brought to the Peninsula Humane Society & SPCA. That’s where I met Julie, Cara and Alexa. I could tell right away that they were my kind of people. With a wildly wagging tail, I showed off some of my best moves: chasing balls, splashing in a water fountain and digging holes. They were suitably impressed and took me home with them to Burlingame, where I made loads of new friends at dog parks and on the sidelines of Alexa’s and Cara’s softball and soccer games. In the past two years with my new family, I’ve discovered the joys of running off-leash at Fort Funston and going on road trips to beautiful places like Tahoe and Santa Barbara. In fact, it’s in Julie’s hometown of Santa Barbara that you’ll find Rincon Point, the surf beach I was named after. At home, when I’m not snuggling with my toys or singing a duet with passing ambulances, I keep a close eye on my pack, following them from room to room like a furry shadow. In Spanish, rincón means a corner or a cozy little nook. I’m so happy I found my cozy little rincón right here in Burlingame!

Calling All Dogs: If you've got quirky habits or a funny tale (or tail) to share, email your story to hello@punchmonthly.com for a chance to share a page from your Diary of a Dog in PUNCH.

Perfect Shot: Surf Meets Turf

This brooding ocean scene was captured by photographer Tony Corso, who says that he loved shooting the torrential storms of Texas before he moved to California. He’s transfered that passion to the high surf advisories here on the West Coast. “Living less than 15 minutes away from the shores near Pacifica, I love having the opportunity to watch the violent surf come breaking in and crashing over the pier and rocks nearby. To those who like to photograph such things, no two waves are the same.”

Image by Tony Corso / tonycorsoimages.com / @tonycorsoimages

Calling all Shutterbugs: If you’ve captured a unique perspective of the Peninsula, we’d love to see your Perfect Shot. Email us at hello@punchmonthly.com to be considered for publication.

Framing the Future

Words by Johanna Harlow

“When you get close, you can really see the intricacy of the work,” says Stephanie Martin, pointing out tiny hidden faces in the painting of a tiger at a solo exhibition dedicated to the ephemeral yet earthy works of Steven Spazuk. The Studio Shop Gallery’s new director crosses to another work with swooping swallows. “When the light hits it, like right now, it’s illuminated.” And truly, the gold leaf adorning the image does seem to glow.

Stephanie is the latest in a long legacy of gallery directors who have overseen this 110-year-old institution. Both an art gallery and a picture-framing shop, it’s been around almost as long as Burlingame has. (It opened seven years after the city incorporated in 1908.) Founded by Dorothy and Ralph Crawford to unite Ralph’s art supply and picture-framing services with his wife’s photography studio, the shop stayed in the family until 1955, when it was sold to the parents of its most recent owners, Carl and Janet Martin. They continued that tradition by entrusting it to daughter-in-law Stephanie in January.

Cover Photo: Annie Barnett / Historic Photo: Studio Shop Gallery

Originally from Austria, Stephanie grew up surrounded by the arts. Her father was both a photographer and a painter—and she and her grandfather shared his shutterbug ways. “[My grandpa] would go to the Formula One races and take photos of Niki Lauda and all the big Formula One people. I would see these all framed in our hallway,” recalls Stephanie. After moving to San Francisco as an au pair, Stephanie met Carl and Janet’s son on a trip to the beach, and the two later married. After bookkeeping at the Martins’ gallery, Stephanie discovered a passion for the work. She continued taking on new responsibilities until assuming her role as gallery director.

“I am thrilled beyond belief that Stephanie’s taking over and it’s staying in the family,” Janet says. That’s not to say the decision to step back was easy. Janet has swept the gallery’s floors since she was old enough to hold a broom and used to bike there with her sisters to spend time with their dad.

Photo: Annie Barnett 

After taking over the gallery from her parents John and Martha Benson, she dedicated decades of her career to this place and formed countless relationships. “I’ve said it was easier to let go of my kids,” Janet laughs. “It raised me, fed me—and it’s going to do the same for Stephanie.” Janet mulls over how best to put in words what this place means to her. “It’s my life, it’s not a business,” she says finally. “And Stephanie treats it like it’s her life and not a business.”

What has Stephanie learned from Janet? “Everything!” Stephanie declares. “She’s been an incredible mentor for me … and she knows everybody in Burlingame.” Those relationships are why Janet will continue to play a supporting role at the gallery. “I have clients that I’ve worked with for 30 years. They’re going to want to work with me, I’m going to want to work with them,” Janet says. “ I know every wall in every house they have and what piece of art’s on it or what frame is on the art.”

Photo: Annie Barnett 

That generational legacy is the glue that keeps this place going strong, Stephanie points out. “Clients were friends with John and Martha, and then their kids would come and work with Janet, and now the next generation comes in and they work with me!” Stephanie says she meets people whose parents collected art from Janet and Carl, and that she’s honored to be able to introduce their children to incredible art.

Just because Studio Shop Gallery is over a century old doesn’t mean it’s dated. “You constantly have to reinvent yourself,” Stephanie says, emphasizing a motto that Janet and Carl drilled into her. “We can never become the ‘old lady gallery!’” Which is why, when the place next door recently became available, they expanded, knocking through the wall and brightening the interior with bold accent walls and modern furniture.

Photo: Annie Barnett 

The Studio Shop Gallery also pivoted during the pandemic. “Everyone was at home, no one could travel—and so people were actually finally staring at their walls,” Stephanie recalls. The gallery created an art rental program so homeowners could fill those empty spaces. “We’d bring it out to your house with our gloves and our masks and our booties on,” Janet says. Many people ended up buying the rented art. Studio Shop also supported artists by hosting a series of solo shows: 10 artists over 10 weeks. Almost all of them sold out.

There’s a sense of awe to the way Stephanie describes matching the right art with the right owner. “Art is so personal,” she says. “I call it the soul of the house.” She motions to a couch “where you can bask in the presence of the art” and explains how their large onsite inventory allows the shop to easily introduce collectors to a wide range of pieces. “Having that immediacy and being able to show people different things is really important,” she reflects. At the gallery, they never try to force that process. “It needs to come from the heart. You know when it’s the right piece.”

Photo: Annie Barnett 

GETTING FRAMED

The Studio Shop Gallery takes its framing services seriously and has even done framing projects for museum exhibitions in Europe. “A  frame can make or break a piece of art,” Janet maintains. Take a Rembrandt out of its original frame, replace it with a flimsy contemporary frame and “it wouldn’t be the masterpiece that it is.”

Does the gallery’s director have a favorite piece at home? Stephanie mentions a figurative abstract by Melinda Matyas, titled I’ve Shaken Off the Dust of the Lands, “which is kind of a reference to getting rid of negativity,” she describes. “It’s in my bedroom, so when I wake up in the morning, I can see it and it always reminds me, ‘Keep going.’”

The sentiment holds for the Studio Shop Gallery, too. It has persevered through two pandemics (COVID and the Spanish Flu), the Great Depression, the Great Recession and two World Wars. And if Stephanie has anything to say about it, there will be many more years to come.

picture this – studioshopgallery.com

Rainy Day Outings

Words by Johanna Harlow

After a lot of schedule wrangling, you and your friends have finally managed to nail down a date to hang out. You’re looking forward to the day—until you glance at your weather app and see the tiny row of storm clouds. But how to spend those rain-lashing, wind-whooshing, thunder-grumbling days? Beat the brooding weather with one of these indoor outings.

Topgolf

(Burlingame)
Get into the swing of things at Topgolf Burlingame with three floors of bookable bays overlooking a massive outfield of targets and waterfront views of the San Francisco Bay. Designed for comfort, each area is equipped with heaters and comfy couches. Settle in, turn to the screen and select one of several virtual games to rack up points, a system that works thanks to high-tech balls that score themselves. We recommend Angry Birds or Sonic the Hedgehog to add an extra note of playfulness to the proceedings.
If you find yourself chunking or whiffing, don’t fret. Topgolf has a special “Sure Thing” club with a huge face and considerable loft, making it near-impossible to miss the ball. As the company puts it, “Topgolf is a game for everyone, even if you’re getting more hole-in-nones than hole-in-ones.” Half-price rates offered Monday through Thursday.

Photography Courtesy of: Michael Baxter – Topgolf

The Foster Museum

(Palo Alto)

When the skies grow gray, seek solace through splashes of color at The Foster, a 14,000-square-foot museum dedicated to the extraordinary work of artist Tony Foster. You might find that the next best thing to going outside is to bask in Tony’s plein air watercolors portraying the world’s most beautiful wildernesses. His work depicts his travels—which have taken him from Mont Blanc to the Mulu Caves, the Atacama Desert to the American Southwest—and includes his journal notes. He also incorporates “souvenirs” such as map fragments, vials of iceberg water or dried leaves.
Feeling inspired? The Foster offers classes in nature journaling and intro to drawing. There’s also a session where you can pull up a chair in front of your favorite piece, immerse yourself in the details of Tony’s depictions and let it inform your own work (a tea service is provided whenever you need to stretch your legs).

Photography Courtesy of: Annie Barnett

MORE OUTINGS
+ Winter Lodge (Palo Alto) – Indoor and outdoor rinks, plus roaring fireplaces 
+ Bel Mateo Bowl (San Mateo) – Knock down those pins 
+ Red Door Escape Room (San Mateo) – Spooky forest, mad scientist’s lab or prison break? 
+ Movement Belmont (Belmont) – Rock climbing and yoga 
+ Hyperion Climbing (Redwood City) – 10,700 feet of bouldering walls 
+ Art Attack (Burlingame) – Oil painting classes 
+ Needles Studio (Los Altos) – Classes ranging from sewing basics to quilted sneakers 
+ Stanford Theatre (Palo Alto) – Old Hollywood classics and live organ music at intermission 
+ GAMA Ride (San Mateo) – Billiards, bowling, bumper cars, arcade games and 3D immersive motion simulators

Palomo Archery

(Palo Alto)
Bullseye! Aim true at Palomo Archery, an indoor range with 20-yard practice lanes, movable bales and LED lighting. Don’t know your field tip from your fletching? Palomo’s certified instructors offer lessons to beginners looking to embrace their inner Artemis as well as to more advanced students honing their skills. Serious competitors will also find a welcoming community here. Palomo hosts SVAD, a Junior Olympic Archery Development program, and provides competition-style sessions on Thursdays and Sundays so local archers can test their mettle while preparing for contests like the California State Indoor Championships. Equipment is available at no extra cost.

Photography Courtesy of: Ronnie Guinto – Clay Lounge San Carlos

Clay Lounge

(San Carlos)
Chase away the chill with a trip to a bright, airy pottery studio and warm thoughts of firing your ceramic creations in a 2,000-degree kiln. Clay Lounge is an excellent place to learn the practical and pleasing art of pottery. For the curious who aren’t ready for commitment, the studio offers one-time “try it” classes. But be forewarned, after your first session, you might just find yourself signing up for a six-week course, and then a membership. Rolling up your sleeves and throwing pots is bound to work up an appetite. After class, consider heading two doors down to Drake’s for grilled chicken sandwiches with Gruyere and garlic aioli.

Seeking other spots to sink your fingers into some clay? Check out Spiffy Pottery Studio in Menlo Park, South Bay Ceramics in Mountain View and Clayroom in San Mateo.

Photography Courtesy of: Johanna Harlow

MORE MUSEUMS 
+ SFO Museum (South San Francisco) – Culture, art, history and science exhibits at the airport 
+ CuriOdyssey (San Mateo) – Science museum and zoo at Coyote Point 
+ Hiller Aviation Museum (San Carlos) – Airplanes, helicopters, spacecraft and simulators 
+ Cantor Arts Center (Stanford University) – Art museum with 24 galleries and free entry 
+ Palo Alto Art Center (Palo Alto) – Art, ceramics, jewelry and printmaking classes 
+ Computer History Museum (Mountain View) – Stories and artifacts from Silicon Valley’s computing revolution 
+ San Mateo County History Museum (Redwood City) – The story of the Peninsula, from the Ohlone to modern innovators 
+ Los Altos History Museum (Los Altos) – Local history from agriculture to tech

Sweet Solvang

Words by Sharon McDonnell

Solvang is having a moment. Famous for its Danish architecture and traditions, Santa Barbara County’s quirky homage to Scandinavia was named “Best Small Town in the West” by USA Today readers earlier this year. Think hygge wedded to a sun-soaked Wine Country vibe. With its quaint half-timbered buildings and windmills, this Santa Ynez Valley town is stuffed with oversized charm in a pint-sized package.

Founded in 1911 by Danish immigrants, Solvang’s month-long Julefest features Christmas festivities like nightly light-and-music shows, craft markets and walking tours with guides in Danish folk costume. There’s even a parade and visits with Santa Paws therapy dogs. These holiday happenings were enough to get the town ranked on the “Most Magical Christmas Towns and Villages in the World” list by Oprah Daily last December.

Befitting a Scandinavian outpost, Solvang is home to California’s first troll by Thomas Dambo, the Danish recycled materials artist who’s created over 100 of the giant wooden sculptures in 17 countries (including six displayed at Woodside’s Filoli estate this summer). It’s perfectly suited to its spot in the California Nature Art Museum, which features mosaic landscapes, quilts with nature designs and photographs. Each Dambo troll is unspeakably quirky and has its own legend. His trolls all live outdoors, with the exception of Solvang’s. “Lulu Hyggelig,” made from wooden pallets, is squashed inside a room because she got overfed by Mortensen’s Bakery and can’t get out the door.

Arriving in town, I checked in at The Winston, a boutique suites-only hotel with a Danish-style half-timbered bell tower that was belied by the bold colors and quirky art within. My living room was 1940s lipstick red, adorned in butterfly prints. A blue suite next door featured armchairs in whimsical dog and monkey patterns, and there was a lovely lounge with an honor bar and library. Its central location facing Solvang Park makes it perfect for exploring.

Eat & Drink

For breakfast, I wanted ebleskivers, the Danish pancake-like balls topped with raspberry jam and powdered sugar, so I ate at Solvang Restaurant, where carved wooden booths display the coat-of-arms from different cities in Denmark, like Odense (the birthplace of fairytale writer Hans Christian Andersen) and Helsingor, home of the castle that inspired Hamlet. Surrounded by murals from The Ugly Duckling and other Andersen tales, I sat in a booth where a plaque noted a scene from the movie Sideways, which was filmed here in 2003.

Ebelskivers are usually sold in restaurants, not bakeries, but the Danish Mill Bakery, founded in 1960 by a baker for King Christian X, serves them with lingonberry sauce. This bakery is one of five in Solvang certified by the Danish Baking Guild. At the oldest and biggest, Birkholm’s Bakery & Café founded in 1951, a staffer explained how 27 layers of pastry dough make treats like kringles—pretzel-shaped pastries—so fluffy and moist. I’m told the four favorite flavors are almond, cinnamon, custard and raspberry. At Ingeborg’s Danish Chocolates, founded in 1961, I saw over 70 types of chocolates, many filled with marzipan, some with nuts, plum or cognac. My favorite: flodeboller, an enchanting Mallomar-like sweet, only taller and with more chocolate.

What I didn’t expect to find was a Michelin Bib Gourmand restaurant like Peasants FEAST in Solvang. My spicy soft-shell crab sandwich, doused in Calabrian chili oil with pickled red onions, was fantastic, like a crustacean version of Nashville Hot Chicken. At The Gathering Table, known for innovative Asian-French fusion, my hamachi was “new style” (a hot soy-yuzu vinaigrette lent the sushi a slight sear) and my duck breast had a hoisin-calamansi glaze and a ginger-scallion sauce.

As befits a town with a starring role in Sideways (filmed here and in nearby Buellton), the movie that skyrocketed Pinot Noir sales nationwide, Solvang has many wine tasting rooms. Venture outside of city limits to Roblar Winery, a 10-minute drive, for the scenic patio with couches next to its lovely garden. Its farmhouse is a five-bedroom vacation rental with an infinity pool and hot tub. V Lounge, at Vinland Hotel & Lounge, offers creative cocktails like a Key Lime Pie martini concocted with coconut cream, lime juice, pineapple juice, rum, vodka and a graham cracker crust rim. It also boasts a late-night happy hour. The Vinland, a boutique hotel with a half-timbered façade, outdoor pool and hot tub, has five suites sponsored by local wineries like Alma Rosa, which provide the bottles and tasting vouchers found inside.

Top Shops

Copenhagen House stocks an array of Danish brands ranging from George Jensen silverware, shoes and wood animal-shaped toys to watches and jewelry. “Danish design is modern, sleek, clean lines, but not industrial, and always brings an element of nature in from outdoors,” says Kirsten Klitgaard, my guide from the Solvang Visitor Center. Copenhagen House also has a Viking Museum, which displays a replica of a circa-900 Viking ship, rebuilt by Denmark’s Roskilde Boatyard in 2022 using ancient techniques. Check out its exhibits on Viking history, plus costumes from the Netflix series Vikings: Valhalla.

Gerda’s Iron Art Gift Shop sells Danish glassware and blue-and-white dishware, tablecloths, Norwegian rosemaling-painted items, German cuckoo clocks, souvenirs—and even some items made of iron. The eclectic collection at The Home Connection features colorful hand-painted pottery from Poland (the Danish owner’s husband is Polish), handmade Amish furniture, beds with hand-forged iron designs and artisan glassware. For locally-grown lavender items like candles, bath products and essential oils, head to Lavender Societe.

If outdoor adventure is what you crave, catch a bird’s-eye view of the Santa Ynez Valley with a ride on the longest and fastest zipline in California at Highline Adventures in Buellton. After you’re unharnessed, take a leisurely hike through its eight acres of protea flowers. To see the world’s biggest birds, over 150 ostriches and emus await at OstrichLand USA.

I asked Kirsten to explain the concept of hygge to me. It’s “a way of life, enjoying the simple things like family and friends and good food,” she says. “You use your Royal Copenhagen China even if it’s not a special day, and don’t take work home with you.”

While the holiday season is heavenly, you can enjoy hygge year-round at Solvang’s frequent events, from Danish Days in September—with a wine and beer garden, people in folk costumes and concerts—to summer concerts in Solvang Park to a classic car show in October.

hygge haven – visitsyv.com

The Extra Mile

Words by Jennifer Jory

Peninsula home builder David Edwards likes to go the extra mile. Lots of extra miles, in fact. He spent his last summer vacation cycling through Europe, logging 1,000 miles that included every mountain pass featured on the Tour de France. Next, he hiked the mountains in Chamonix, then rode his bike from the Atlantic to the Mediterranean with his son. With a love for monumental challenges, David’s decision to switch careers and start a green building company shouldn’t come as a surprise. “You only get one life and you don’t know how long you get,” he says. “Every day is a gift, as my mom said.”

David’s career pivot took shape after working in the biotech industry left him feeling unfulfilled. “As a counterpoint to graduate school and my post-doctorate, I began remodeling homes,” the biochemist recounts. “You can work and do research and have nothing to show for it after years. But good building, remodeling and working with your hands, is the exact opposite. Every day, you get to see what you’ve done and it’s super fulfilling.” When the biotech company he worked for went under and a colleague hired him to build a new house, David’s leap into building homes was complete.

David’s passion to use his expertise to transform the building industry comes from a deeply personal place. “I went to graduate school as a biochemist because my mom got cancer and died when I was 25,” he says. “I feel like every moment you have is limited. You can’t take anything for granted, and we have a responsibility to leave the world a better place.”

With a mission to make a difference, David founded Earth Bound Homes and began building green, energy-efficient houses using nontoxic building materials and sustainable strategies. David confesses that, having never worked for or hired a construction company when he started the business, he had a significant learning curve. “Our focus was always green building,” he points out. “But then we really started focusing on material health and indoor air quality … zero-energy houses. What we found is that when you focused on health, building efficiency came as a byproduct without added cost.”

Being a home builder with a background in biochemistry gives David a unique way of thinking about how to live more sustainably and healthily in our homes. “I want to make sure that whatever time I have on the planet, I use to try to help people,” he explains. Many Earth Bound Homes clients have sensitivity to common allergens, hay fever, asthma or emphysema. “They’re all dramatically helped by airtight houses and air filtration systems,” he says.

The Peninsula is where David has raised his three children with his wife Amy, and it’s where Earth Bound Homes has built a number of passive houses. The term refers to homes that use 90% less energy than typical houses and are highly efficient, as well as comfortable and ecologically sound.

A recent Palo Alto project taps into the company’s decades of experience in green and healthy building. “This house is much more quiet, comfortable, durable and energy-efficient,” David says. “It also has better indoor air quality than most custom homes built these days.” To achieve that, David’s team installed straw panel walls, cork insulation and plaster wall coverings.

 

“This home will be so quiet and comfortable, you can sit next to the enormous windows on the coldest days and feel fine,” David says. The house uses almost no toxic chemicals in any of its building materials and is nearly airtight. It has a fresh air system that features heavily filtered air to keep the home healthy even on the worst wildfire smoke days. “It’s like being outside on that perfect spring day when the air is fresh, clean and the temperature is just right,” David describes. Even the concrete used by the construction team was produced with 60 percent less energy, by using waste products from coal-fired power plants and steel smelting factories.

In San Mateo, Earth Bound’s project, dubbed the Asymmetrical House, highlights the importance of a home’s crawl space as a foundation for wellness. Unlike many houses around the Bay Area, its crawl space is a sealed, insulated and conditioned zone that plays an important role in the home’s performance. If a crawl space is untreated, it can impact a house’s air quality and introduce mold and chemicals such as radon, David says.
But buildings aren’t the only kind of local impact Earth Bound Homes is making. To promote wellness and sustainability to the entire building industry, David created the Bay Area Building Science Collaborative.

Through it, he shares research and information with builders, architects, designers and trades workers. “I try to be a teacher who protects people’s health,” he says. “Especially against cancer-causing chemicals.” He creates educational videos for his YouTube channel, “Building a Better Way,” to help homeowners and builders learn state-of-the-art techniques. Recently, David and his team developed a stamp called Healthy Building Approved, which they’ll use to verify individual materials as safe based on their chemical content.

As David spreads his vision for healthier homes by giving talks, creating videos and working with the collaborative he created, he reflects on what drives him. “The great joy is to be able to do a job that you’re passionate about, that you love and you think makes a difference in the world,” he says.

For David, in work and in life, it seems there’s always another mountain to climb. He’s set his sights on conquering the Alps and Dolomites next year. “If I can get 1 percent better at the things I do every day, that makes me a better mentor, educator, father, boss and human being.”

clean living – earthboundhome.com

Effortless Élan

Words by Loureen Murphy

In a house on a quiet Los Altos street, a woman swings from the great room chandelier. In the nearby hallway, another dangles a lyre on her foot, unaware of dinner guests’ admiring looks. The remodeled home’s eye-catching aesthetic exudes an exuberance infused with peace—the combined work of Michael and Daphneé Metiu of Atelier Ma and interior designer Gaye Ferrara of Ferraras Interiors.

Having clicked with the homeowners from the first interview, Michael and Daphneé reinforced and expanded on Gaye’s and the clients’ vision: Create a backdrop for art, transforming the chateau-style home into a fun, gracious place to live and host.

 

“It’s not often that you get clients with such a love for art and such a varied collection,” says Michael. Drawn to the Limbo Chandelier because it reminded the homeowner of her fun-loving self, she bought it with no clue where she’d use it. So when they settled on placement, Michael raised the great room ceiling, knocking out the attic framing and engineering a coffered ceiling while accommodating the existing skylights. Today, the handwoven-wire aerialist “performs” between the two skylights; at night, the chandelier lights the room.

And the lady with the lute? She’s the luminous nude in Carlo Maria Mariani’s “Monument to Poetry,” which the homeowners had sold off with a previous home. At Gaye’s insistence, they bought it back, placing it opposite the dining room. Michael says it’s his favorite space in the home.

“I love a house where you can get light from three different sides,” Michael says. Here, light pours in from the side yard through the steel and glass doors, the skylights and from the light fixture. It renders a soft light without glare and creates a calm, beautiful space. They achieved this effortless look with extra framing, installed to suspend the fixture with its huge escutcheon between the skylights Michael made.

 

The home also features a custom Lutron lighting system that operates fixtures and shades, to set scenes. While it sounds theatrical, its modes create natural ambience for Cooking, Entertaining, Relaxing, even Cleaning.
A custom fixture runs the length of the hall, illuminating the home’s gallery, flanked by a freeform neon piece, and a Mickey and Minnie work by Mr. Brainwash. Near the dining room, giant multi-colored metal Chiclets spill from a three-foot box, and various paintings bedeck the walls.

Daphneé’s preferred room, the corridor, calls for visitors to slow down and pause, rather than rush right through. Michael refers to it as the “spine” of the home, delineating the private spaces—bedrooms and offices are on one side, public rooms on the other—and creating a grounding balance in an otherwise open floor plan.

In addition to staging their prized artworks, the homeowners requested more green space and greater connectivity to the outdoors. Light-loving Michael says the size of the house enabled them to use a lot of glass corners and bifold doors. From the bar between the great room and the dining room, guests can sip aperitifs to the soothing sight and sound of the water feature that Daphneé designed. Its contrasting shades of slate slabs invite the eye, and the gentle spillway invokes serenity. Guests can step through the doors and use the fountain as a bench, breathing in the natural scents of the surrounding grass and shrubs that replaced redwood mulch and pavers.

Together, Gaye, Daphneé and Michael designed the outdoor seating around the fire pit, and the wainscoting on the guest house. Daphneé and Michael also designed a pass-through from the outdoor bar to the kitchen, among other home-garden connections.

The homeowners prefer to let a house speak to them and always start fresh without bringing any furnishings from a previous home, notes Gaye. Thanks to everyone’s adaptability, creativity and artistic sense, together they utterly reimagined the house from the inside-out—without changing the roof. “Every square inch of that house I know and have thought about,” Gaye says. The result? An intentional and cohesive design with improved flow and delighted clients. The teams also credit their contractor, Pete Moffat Construction, in the project’s success. “If we could think it, they could build it,” says Michael.

Reflecting on the lovely sight lines, the energetic and calm spaces and the team’s synergy, Michael concludes, “This project captures the principles most important to us as designers.”

art of living  – ateliermadesign.com

The Beat on Your Eats: Not your Average Burger

Not Your Average Burger.

gott’s roadside
Palo Alto

For a bounty of burger toppings, Gott’s got your back. Why opt for a modest cheeseburger when you can sink your teeth into the flavor-packed Western Bacon Blue Ring with beer-battered onion rings, Point Reyes Farmstead blue cheese and BBQ sauce or the Texas Avocado Burger with pico de gallo, pickled jalapeños, Jack cheese and sliced avocado? Meanwhile, the Kimchi Burger—one of Gott’s Asian fusion options and a favorite among diners—contains a fried egg, tangy kimchi, American cheese, bacon and spicy gochujang mayo. It’s a pleasing combination of creamy and crunchy with that kick from the kimchi. At Gott’s, your patty will not be fried into submission. They aren’t afraid of a little pink here, cooking patties medium-well to let them live up to their succulent, juicy potential. Seeking to branch out from burgers? We’re fans of the schnitzel, perfectly golden, crispy fried chicken paired with crunchy cucumber, arugula and pickled turnips served with harissa and turmeric spice mayos. Town & Country, 855 El Camino Real. Open daily.

Cover Photo Courtesy of: / Photo Courtesy of: 

maverick jack’s
burlingame

Chugga chugga, chugga chugga, chew chew! All aboard the flavor train for Maverick Jack’s, a locomotive-themed restaurant in Burlingame located right along the tracks. Lean into the theme of this elevated burger spot with the Runaway Freight, a burger with cheddar cheese, bourbon-glazed mushrooms, crispy onion strings and Maverick’s special sauce. Or opt for the Monterey Express with Monterey Jack cheese, hickory-smoked bacon, greens, avocado, tomatoes and roasted garlic aioli. Don’t forget to accompany it with beer-battered pickles, tots or parmesan garlic fries. Even the dining room’s decor embraces the theme. Expect abstract train track-like light fixtures, black-and-white railway-themed photo prints and chairs the cheery yellow of a station’s safety line. Make sure to wave at the passing Caltrain passengers on your way back to your car. 1190 California Drive. Open daily.

the post
Los Altos

If you’re craving all-American comfort food, step inside the century-old former home of the town’s post office. Transformed into a stylish sports bar in 2018, The Post offers a calorie-dense solution to the modern dilemma: Do I want a hamburger or macaroni and cheese? That’s right, you can get the best of both worlds with the mac-and-cheese burger, a beef patty topped with a fried ball of macaroni and cheese, dripping in cheese sauce. Somewhere under all that melty goodness, find slices of tomato, grilled onions, arugula and mayonnaise, all jostling for space in a golden brioche bun. Plus bacon, because, why not? Now your only dilemma is figuring out how you’re going to fit all that into your mouth. 395 Main Street. Closed Tuesdays.

Cocktail Chemistry

Words by Elaine Wu

For Dzu Nguyen, the general manager of Horsefeather in Palo Alto, running a restaurant was never part of his life plan. As a molecular biology major in college, Dzu spent much of his time working in a laboratory. “What drew me to the sciences was a curiosity about finding out how things work,” he recalls. “The goal was to go into research and biotechnology.” But, he admits, working in a lab was a bit isolating.

Dzu started working as a barista to earn some extra cash after class, and a friend suggested there might be more money in bartending. Surprisingly, he didn’t just enjoy working behind the bar, he fell in love with it. “I felt like there was this enjoyable challenge in engaging with people because it was so out of my comfort zone,” Dzu says enthusiastically. “I found I was naturally able to engage with others, and I loved the team dynamic. It was electrifying watching everyone work together for a common goal.”

In 2016, after working at a few bars and restaurants—including the Michelin-starred Mourad—Dzu landed at Horsefeather in San Francisco and managed its bar program. He started using his creative side, concocting craft cocktails for the menu. He did so well in his role that he was asked to take over as general manager just a year later. “Honestly, working in a lab translates well into managing a restaurant,” says Dzu. “It’s all about project management. I’m far more detail-oriented because of it and that helps, especially when there’s so much going on in the restaurant environment.”

These days, he is no longer working behind the bar, but Dzu’s versatility has served him and the restaurant well. As general manager, he’s developed a number of inventive drinks specifically for the newest Horsefeather location in Palo Alto’s Town and Country Village. His eyes light up when discussing all the elements of his favorite creation, Birds of a Feather, which is based on the classic Jungle Bird cocktail. “We use an artisan blood orange aperitif and make an in-house pineapple syrup, and also add in black cardamom to give it a little bit of smokiness,” Dzu excitedly describes. “It’s tropical and refreshing, but the back end is earthy. It’s got a lot of complexity and depth.”

Dzu says he’s enjoyed the challenge of coming up with low-proof beverages and mocktails for the menu. “We didn’t want to just slap something together and make it non-alcoholic,” he states. “I wanted these drinks to be purposely and thoughtfully designed.” In particular, he enjoys The Shorebird, made with zero-proof Aplos Calme, verjus, apple, sea salt and ginger-scallion oil. It’s inspired by Dzu’s affinity for adding an unexpected savory component to a refreshing cocktail. “A lot of drinks are sweet and fruity and cloying. But when I think of designing a citrusy cocktail, I want to make sure there’s a savory element because it whets your palate,” he explains. “It makes the flavor and sweetness pop.”

Despite being the second outpost for Horsefeather, the new location is not an afterthought. “Horsefeather Palo Alto has its own identity. We’re not a San Francisco joint coming into town,” Dzu says. “We bring neighborhood hospitality and an unfussy experience with great food and beverages.” The comfort food menu combines classic American favorites with multicultural influences, like the cochinita pibil tacos with braised pork, miso linguini topped with crispy nori, and fried chicken served with Sriracha honey, corn esquites and mac and cheese.

The food and beverage space has become Dzu’s new lab. And if you ask him, he has no regrets about the detour his career path has taken. “I took from science what I needed to learn. I’ll never not be grateful for that experience,” he says. “But I know my home is in running a restaurant and bar. When you see a guest’s face light up when you bring them a good drink and good food, you know you’ve succeeded. You never get tired of seeing that. That’s success.”

mix it up – horsefeather.com

Perfect Shot: Foggy Forest

The mighty redwoods of Big Basin can evoke all kinds of reactions. Awe at their primeval enormity, delight in their verdant beauty and inspiration from their resilience. Photographer Frances Freyberg was out hiking with friends in the state park when this ethereal scene caught her eye. “Big Basin was always a favorite of my local open spaces because of its beautiful trails through old-growth redwood forest, along creeks and waterfalls, all the way out to the ocean.” While the CZU wildfire devastated much of the park’s manmade infrastructure in 2020, most of its redwoods endured, a testament to the resilience of California’s iconic state tree.

Image by Frances Freyberg / francesfreyberg.com

Calling all Shutterbugs: If you’ve captured a unique perspective of the Peninsula, we’d love to see your Perfect Shot. Email us at hello@punchmonthly.com to be considered for publication.

Diary of a Dog: Linnie

As told to Margaret Koenig

I’m Linnie, and while I may have failed at becoming a seeing-eye dog, when it comes to winning peoples’ hearts, I can’t lose. I’m 50 percent Black Labrador, 50 percent Golden Retriever and 100 percent pure joy! Before being adopted by Maggie, I was training to become a service animal with Guide Dogs for the Blind in San Rafael, but my barking habit kept me from making the cut. Their loss was Maggie’s gain—and mine! This two-year-old now enjoys a more leisurely lifestyle in Menlo Park, where I often start my days with my favorite pastime: bounding up and down hiking trails off-leash. My favorite trails are in Portola Valley and Berkeley, but as long as I can find sticks on the ground to carry, I’m not picky! I love to stop and gaze at deer, salamanders, birds and any other wildlife I come across. Even at home, I take an interest in other animals, often venturing outside to stare endlessly at our chickens. It’s not just animal companionship I crave—I love being around humans as well. It’s like I can never get close enough to the people around me. When snuggling up to someone, I won’t just settle for sitting at their feet but will instead sit on their feet, hoping for attention and petting. So far, it’s a foolproof strategy. And although Maggie travels frequently, her friends are always eager to take me in while she’s away. I guess they just like to be with me. People seem to delight in my company just as much as I delight in theirs—I think that’s what they call a win-win!

Calling All Dogs: If you've got quirky habits or a funny tale (or tail) to share, email your story to hello@punchmonthly.com for a chance to share a page from your Diary of a Dog in PUNCH.

Landmark: The Old Redwood City Courthouse

Words by Margaret Koenig

In the heart of Redwood City stands the old San Mateo County Courthouse, an imposing Roman Renaissance revival-style sandstone with Corinthian columns and a massive stained glass dome. If you’ve been downtown, it’s almost impossible to miss—but are you acquainted with its rich history? The structure sits on land donated to the county in 1858 by Simon Mezes and the Arguello family, owners of Rancho Las Pulgas. Built in 1910, it’s the fourth courthouse to occupy the spot. Its previous incarnation was destroyed in the catastrophic 1906 earthquake. Only its dome survived, which was incorporated into the current building. The courthouse, dubbed “the Temple of Justice,” opened on the Fourth of July in 1910 as the first Superior Court in San Mateo County. The building once housed all facets of the county government, including the sheriff, coroner, treasurer, tax collector, district attorney, school superintendent and some county engineers. In 1939, its front facade was removed and the Fiscal Building was installed in its place. By the 1990s, it became “the old courthouse” when a modern one was built nearby, but it didn’t stay vacant long. In 1998, the San Mateo County History Museum moved in and set up shop. Established in 1941 by Dr. Frank Stranger, a history professor at the College of San Mateo, its early collections consisted largely of family artifacts and documents donated by students. Today, the museum’s exhibitions cover everything from early entrepreneurship to the native tribes that first occupied the land. You’ll also find the Peninsula Sports Hall of Fame, Courtroom A—the oldest courtroom in the county—and a plaque commemorating former Supreme County Justice Sandra Day O’Connor, who worked as San Mateo County’s assistant district attorney. In 2006, the Fiscal Building was removed and the original front facade of the old courthouse was restored, enhancing this majestic piece of Redwood
City history.

Q&A: Placemakers

The owner of architectural salvaging company Placemakers talks about favorite finds, repurposing strategies and the spookiest place he’s worked.

When did you begin collecting interesting items?
One of my first salvage jobs was at St. Joseph’s Seminary in Los Altos, built in 1924. I was able to salvage some of the cast stone ornamentation from the facade, including statuettes of several disciples and of Jesus Christ himself! It seemed like a sign.

What are some favorite finds over the years?
Solon and Schemmel tiles from the Steinhardt Aquarium, a two-ton marble bathtub from a 10th floor apartment, bronze doors from the Temple Emanu-el in San Francisco, a piece of Stanford Stadium, a pipe organ from 1914. I’ve also collected items from Carolands Mansion in Hillsborough and Mapes Hotel in Reno.

Is there a period in history that interests you most?
I find current events plenty interesting. Amazing changes are happening all around us, on a daily basis.

What is your most cherished possession?
My wedding ring.

Where are your favorite places to go hunting for new items?
I really don’t look for anything. They find me! In the late ‘90s, I travelled across the country a few times “picking” with a friend. It was fun, but I realized my skills really were better suited to a jobsite. I started working as a demolition contractor and figured it was better to get paid to take away “garbage” than to go around and pay for stuff.

Who do you look up to?
I try to look up to everyone. There are lots of unsung heroes, trying their best every day.

Is it true that you acquired some items from an old asylum?
Yes, the Agnews Development Center East in Santa Clara. I worked with a great team at Swinerton Builders to recover some of the notable architectural details before they built three new schools on the site. It was kind of fun—but kind of creepy too!

Any mishaps on the job that you can laugh about now?
When I was at the Agnews Development Center, I got locked in after-hours. I had to break out through the cyclone fencing, and all I had was a Leatherman tool.

Do you have any phobias?
Pickles.

Do you have any items connected to renowned Palo Alto architect and artist Pedro de Lemos?
Yes, I was fortunate to be in the right place at the right time, working at the Hacienda de Lemos. The owners were incredibly kind, and entrusted me to steward some of his light fixtures and tiles to their next assignment.

What is something on your bucket list?
The 2027 full solar eclipse in Luxor, Egypt.

What’s your favorite quote?
Measure twice, cut once.

What are people always surprised to learn about you?
That I’m colorblind. I don’t know why that is surprising, but it has gotten me out of many, many meetings on tile and paint colors.

Local Flavor

Words by Andrea Gemmet

For a chef who’s earned multiple Michelin stars, Joseph Humphrey’s first foray into a professional kitchen wasn’t particularly auspicious. His mom and dad worried that their “skate punk” son lacked direction, so Joseph’s dad found the 15-year-old a job at a Whataburger restaurant in their hometown of Tallahassee, Florida. “It was kind of life-changing,” recalls the new executive chef at Oak + Violet in Menlo Park of his time at the burger chain. “These were some of the hardest-working people I’ve ever met. Everybody hung out together. It was a family.”

In those early days, the kitchen camaraderie appealed more to Joseph than the fast-food cuisine. But as the years passed, he cobbled together a stellar culinary education, working his way into increasingly prestigious restaurants, studying cookbooks and experimenting with recipes from back issues of Gourmet magazine. By the time Joseph made his way from the Sunshine State to the Golden State (with a stop in New Orleans), he’d graduated from burger-flipper to oyster-shucker and salad-maker at San Francisco’s acclaimed One Market restaurant. “It wasn’t until I came out here, at One Market, that it became about the food,” he says. “Everything before that was the environment, the people and the sense of hospitality.”

In the Bay Area, Joseph’s culinary imagination and his career both blossomed, thanks to some key connections. “I got very fortunate. I had some great mentors,” he says modestly, citing prominent chefs George Marrone and Michael Mina among other local luminaries. He was George’s chef de cuisine at San Francisco’s Fifth Floor, a fine-dining powerhouse when it opened in 1999, then went to work for Michael when he was in the early stages of building his eatery empire. Joseph earned his first two Michelin stars after reopening The Restaurant at Meadowood in St. Helena, and followed up in 2018 with a star for Murray Circle at the Lodge at Cavallo Point in Sausalito.

Running the newly opened resort’s large-scale dining program, from restaurants and room service to banquets for up to 800, “was a big shift for me,” he confides. So large-scale that Joseph could buy a whole cow from Skywalker Ranch (that’s right, George Lucas raised wagyu cattle on his property) and use up every ounce of it at Cavallo Point.

While farm-to-table is a buzzword today, it’s an ethos Joseph embraced from the outset, crafting dishes from locally sourced and sustainable ingredients. It felt good, he says, knowing that the quantity of produce used at Cavallo Point could have a positive impact on a nearby farm. “We knew where our stuff came from,” Joseph says with pride, adding that he was the first to list the fish and the fishing vessel that caught it on his menus.

He took the helm of Oak + Violet at the Park James Hotel earlier this year, and its menu bears the distinct marks of Joseph’s kitchen creativity and passion for local produce. His San Francisco albacore tuna features fresh-off-the-boat fish delicately poached in red wine and settled atop an earthy bed of mole rojo sauce scattered with roasted summer squash. It’s accompanied by a “polenta” made of sweet fresh corn. The tuna’s cooking method was inspired by a standout dish Joseph enjoyed in Paris 30 years ago. The brick-red mole sauce was developed in consultation with the Oaxaca-born husband of one of his Oak + Violet cooks. The result is an unexpectedly perfect pairing of Old World techniques and New World know-how that reflects the Bay’s culinary melting pot. Just don’t expect to find it on the menu when its ingredients are out of season.

“I get asked, ‘What’s your signature dish?’ I don’t have any of those,” Joseph says. “But I have a style: product first. Then all of my influences—places I’ve been, things I’ve eaten and chefs I’ve worked with—all those things kind of come together.” That means Oak + Violet’s menu is constantly changing, sometimes from day to day. In September, halibut was served with meltingly soft baby leeks and a tart, crispy fennel salad as a counterpoint to the fish’s fragrant saffron and toasted garlic sauce. This dish is a best-seller, but if the weather is bad and the fishing boats don’t go out, you’ll find something else fresh and local taking the halibut’s place. “What we have today, we might not have tomorrow,” Joseph says. He acknowledges that it can make life a little harder for Oak + Violet’s staff. “I’m still keeping ’em on their toes because things change so much and so frequently.”

Joseph’s vision for Oak + Violet extends to its beverage program, with cocktails informed by the highly seasonal menu and a wine list curated by James Beard Award winner Shelley Lindgren. The elegantly understated restaurant’s large windows offer a view of the enclosed patio and bar, which frequently features live music.

After spending the past several years traveling the country as a consulting chef, helping other restaurateurs find the secret sauce for success, Joseph seems to be making himself right at home in Menlo Park.

savor the season  – parkjames.com/dine

Oak + Violet’s Gravenstein Apple Salad

Heirloom apples, endive and tarragon are coated with a creamy Dijon mustard dressing and topped with cheddar crisps in Chef Joseph Humphrey’s tasty fall salad. Serves 6.

Dressing
1 medium shallot, peeled and sliced thinly 
¼ cup white wine 
2 tablespoons apple 
cider vinegar 
2 tablespoons strong Dijon mustard 
¼ cup plain yogurt 
¼ cup buttermilk

In a saucepan, cook shallot, wine and vinegar over medium heat until the liquid is reduced by half. Remove from heat and cool to room temperature.

Add mustard, yogurt and buttermilk to the shallot mixture and puree in a blender until smooth. Season with salt to taste, then refrigerate in a covered container.

Cheddar Crisp 
4 ounces English-style 
cheddar, shredded 
with a medium-sized grater

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Line a baking sheet with nonstick paper and spread grated cheese in a thin, even layer.

Bake until golden brown, about 8-10 minutes and then let cool to room temperature.

When cool, use a spatula to break into six pieces.

SALAD
4 small Gravenstein or 
organic heirloom 
apples, peeled and cored 
4 heads Belgian endive, 
cleaned, dried and roots 
removed
¼ cup fresh tarragon leaves

Cut apples into bite-sized pieces and place in a mixing bowl, then add the endive leaves.

Add creamy Dijon dressing and mix well to coat. Season with salt and pepper to taste, then add the tarragon leaves, mixing just once to incorporate them.

Divide the salad between six chilled salad bowls. Place one piece of cheddar crisp on top of each salad and serve.

Building Filoli

Words by Johanna Harlow

It’s hard not to get swept up in the verdant splendor of Filoli’s blossoming cherry trees, daffodil meadow, succulent-lined sunken garden and seemingly endless flurry of flowers—but the historic manor at the center of these gardens deserves your attention too. Will you come explore as we step into this 54,000-square-foot Georgian masterpiece and unlock its stories?

Cover Photo: Courtesy of Larissa Clevland Photography - Filoli / Photo: Courtesy of Liberte Reilly - Filoli

Agnes & the Architect

To acquaint yourself with the Filoli mansion, you need to understand the hands that shaped it and the minds that imagined it. Constructed between 1915 and 1917 in Woodside, this 56-room home was built for the aging and affluent Agnes and William Bourn, who forged their fortune from the Empire Gold Mine and Spring Valley Water Company. “They said, ‘A place to grow young,’” says Willa Brock, interim director of collections and interpretation at Filoli. She notes that this wasn’t the couple’s first house—it was their sixth. “Their move down the Peninsula was in line with this fashion for a lot of wealthy San Franciscan families to build country estates where there was more land.” It was also an escape from the “chaos of the city” after the 1906 earthquake and fire.

The Bourns turned to their friend and renowned architect Willis Polk, who had already designed several buildings on their behalf, including a home on Webster Street in San Francisco. That previous project “is in this heavy, dark, clinker brick style that’s very different from Filoli,” Willa notes. Not one to be tied down by just one aesthetic, “Willis was willing to mix and match styles to create something new.” He styled this new home as a Georgian mansion with California sensibilities (like its “Flemish bond” brickwork and Spanish tile roof).

Photo: Courtesy of Filoli

Equally influential in the building’s conception was the lady of the manor. “We talk a lot about Agnes, actually,” Willa says. “I know often, when you’re hearing about grand estates, you hear about the male founder who’s made the money, but Filoli was really Agnes’s vision in a lot of ways.” Agnes worked closely with Willis on the details of the home—and whenever Willis’ design schemes spiraled into extravagance, it was often Agnes who kept him in check. “Polk came in with these very grand designs,” Willa notes. “The Bourns had a slightly humbler vision.”

What makes for a “humble” mansion? Willa points to the entry as a prime example. “You’re not immediately greeted by a very impressive horseshoe staircase as you might get in some other grand estates,” she explains. “The stairs are actually off to the side, which just doesn’t feel as over-the-top or in-your-face.”

Photo: Courtesy of Filoli

That’s not to say that their mansion lacked luxury. The reception room had a lady’s and gentleman’s cloakroom where guests could freshen up before being ushered into the entertaining space by the Bourns’ English butler (“at the time, very fashionable,” Willa notes).

The couple insisted on a modern manor. William, a forward-thinking man, made sure the home was fully wired for electricity. “That was very William Bourn. He wanted the best. He was always looking to be ahead of the game,” Willa says. “The electrical system still is going strong.”

Photo: Courtesy of Jeff Bartee - Filoli

Resplendent Rooms

You need only peek into Filoli’s rooms to recognize their artistry and attention to detail.

Take the Gentleman’s Lounge. Only recently restored based on a black-and-white photo and a scrap of the original wallpaper, the room’s walls display a striking botanical design with large peonies and playful dark wood bowties are inlaid in the oak floor. “Now you walk in and you really get a dose of William Bourn’s personality, I think—which maybe challenges our assumptions of what a gentleman’s lounge might look,” Willa says.

Visitors should look next in the library. “Apparently at the time, you could purchase a replica of a whole room and they would come and install it for you,” Willa says. Filoli emulates the book haven at Buckinghamshire’s Denham Place. “It’s very striking. You walk in and it’s all-around wood paneling,” she describes. The room boasts showstopping floral borders carved into black American walnut and a fireplace with a Tavernelle marble mantel. Some of the Bourns’ books still inhabit its floor-to-ceiling shelves.

Photo: Courtesy of Mike James - Filoli

Just down the hall is the belle of all ballrooms. “It’s the most glam, glitzy space in the house,” Willa says, describing the chandeliers and Versailles-inspired fireplace. The room also features pastoral wall paintings by Ernest Peixotto. They might look like murals, but they’re actually very large canvases depicting Muckross House. This Irish estate, idyllically situated beside a lake and mountains, was a beloved retreat for the Bourns and a huge inspiration for Filoli’s natural surroundings. “They originally wanted to put Filoli right on the edge of the Crystal Springs reservoirs, but weren’t allowed to get that close,” says Willa, adding that “before these trees grew in later years, you would’ve had a clear view of the water from the second floor of the house and from the top of the garden.”

Photo: Courtesy of Jeff Bartee - Filoli

Nurturing Nature

Nature guided the Bourns’ design decisions in numerous ways. Beyond its gorgeous gardens that even world leaders come to see, “Agnes and William wanted [a home] that felt more of the land than on top of the land,” Willa explains. “You arrive at Filoli by riding in on this curvy road through the woods and through the orchards—and you come up around the side of Filoli, you don’t come down one straight path that’s designed to blow you away with this vista of the house. You kind of happen upon it.”

Before the indoor-outdoor concept really took off, the Bourns were adamant about bringing the garden into their grand halls. “The one staff space that’s not tucked away in the south wing is the floral arranging room,” Willa says, noting its central location between the foyer and main staircase. “It is right in the heart of the home.” For this couple, “having live flowers throughout their house was really important—and that’s reflected in the literal architecture of the house.”

Photo: Courtesy of Jamie Kingham - Abe Froman Producions - Filoli

That outdoor appreciation extended to the home’s siting. The house is aligned with the mountain range rather than a more traditional north-south orientation, Willa describes. “All the windows of the main rooms in the house open up and look out on the Santa Cruz Mountains … Imagine them open on a beautiful day and the scents of the garden coming in.”

meandering the manor – filoli.org

Essay: No Way, Mo

Words by Sloane Citron

F rom our large office windows, we watch the traffic on El Camino. Sometimes there is a bit of action when a police car stops someone or an ambulance comes whizzing by. Lately, however, the action is of a different kind. Hundreds of Waymo cabs, with no driver in them, troll up and down El Camino like salmon unthinkingly finding their way upstream to spawn. My first thought is of the thousands of Uber and Lyft drivers who will lose their livelihoods when Waymo undercuts them. The technology that goes into making them work is impressive, but …

My month started innocently enough. I bought a refurbished iPhone 13 Mini to replace my aging iPhone 12 Mini. Because Apple stopped making the
minis (which I like because they fit neatly in my front pocket), I thought this would be a good option. The phone I bought, however, had almost no battery life left, so I returned it. Then I found out I could buy an unopened, “factory sealed” iPhone 13 mini, which I promptly did.

In transferring my information between these devices, my contacts list became corrupted. Certain names were repeated thousands of times while many of my other contacts simply disappeared. It then synced with my Apple computers to create a bloody mess.

I spent about 20 hours trying to deal with this myself, with no success. Over the course of a week, I surgically removed the thousands of repeated names and then carefully fixed what I could. This apparently angered my phone to the point that when I woke up the next day, it had tripled the number of repeated and lost contacts. That resulted in 20,000 contacts, most of them from the same dozen people.

I googled the issue over and over, adjusting my question so that I might get a useful response. Nothing. I tried Open AI and despite some lovely prose, it also was unable to provide a solution. I was defeated.

I made an appointment at the Apple store in Stanford Shopping Center. Despite her best efforts, the advisor (no more geniuses, I guess) could not resolve the issue, and neither could anyone else at the store. While there, she had me call a special number to get more experienced support.

After an hour, the first advanced advisor said that she needed to transfer me to someone even more experienced and I was on hold for a while before I got Jamain. He took control of my laptop (which I had brought) and together he walked me though what to do. It was a compromise at best. I now had my contacts from three years ago, but anything added after that time was gone. But at least it seemed to have stopped the endless duplication of my contacts.

I’ve been doing everything I can think of to recapture my missing contacts. Through vigilance, I have most of them back, though I’m sure there are ones that I don’t know are missing and that I won’t realize it until I need to call them. It has been a nightmare.

The next day in my office, a “reminder” at the bottom of my computer screen—something I never set up and don’t use—told me that I was “overdue” in remembering my cousin Peter’s birthday on March 3. Huh? It appeared hundreds of times and just kept coming. After an hour of turning off everything I could find, googling it to oblivion, trying this and that, finally something clicked and that darn thing stopped. I felt like my electronics were after me. To whom do I offer contrition?

In the midst of this nightmare, I woke up one morning to see the dreaded message: Your credit card has been compromised, please call our fraud department. I have been down this path before, and I took a deep breath since I knew, having not bought a TV at a Best Buy in Detroit, that I would have to get a new card.

This is an experience little different from my missing contacts. Having had my card for many years, its imprint was everywhere, stored for my use in the way that these magic machines do. And I knew that I could look forward to dunning letters from businesses informing me that my stored credit card no longer worked.

Here’s the point: technology mostly doesn’t work. In our small office, almost every single day there is an issue of some kind, whether hardware, software, cloud storage, apps, copy machine and so on. Since I am amazed that these devices work in the first place, I tend to be understanding when they don’t. And they mostly don’t.

After my week of technology disasters, here’s my thinking: Despite their zest to get me into a headless carriage that works only because of highly complicated and fallible technology, I know better. My Waymo will break, my seatbelt will fail, and my demise will be in the hands of, well, nobody.

Shaping a Second Act

Words by Sheryl Nonnenberg

For most people, having a successful and fulfilling career is a life goal. But what if you are lucky enough to have the time, talent and courage to embark upon a second career? Portola Valley Ranch resident Lee Middleman has done just that and the proof can be found in the exquisite ceramics he produces in his home studio.

Born and raised in Baltimore, Lee studied physics at Johns Hopkins University and then at Stanford University, launching his career in making analytical and medical instruments. Years of long hours and extensive travel paid off—Lee holds over 40 patents and was promoted to vice president. But when his company was bought by a large pharmaceutical firm, Lee came to a hard realization—he no longer enjoyed his job.

Lee opted to take a nine-month break and travel, thanks to a “golden parachute” and the support of his wife, Donnie. But something kept calling him back to all the ceramics classes he’d recently taken at the Palo Alto Art Center and Lee realized that the medium he wanted to work with was clay. “I always liked to draw, and I loved watching my father, who was a mechanical engineer, drawing and tinkering,” he explains. “I grew up surrounded by family members who were painters, potters and musicians, so there was encouragement for the arts in the family.”


But why clay? “It’s physical, it’s creative and you can make things that are functional, sculptural or decorative,” says Lee. His favorite way to work is a style he refers to as decorative/functional.

At the end of his break, Lee and Donnie agreed to take a leap. Instead of going back to work, Lee would focus on becoming a professional ceramicist. That was more than two decades ago and the couple hasn’t looked back since.

Lee took his new vocation seriously, attending classes, going to workshops and traveling the globe to learn techniques from recognized masters, many of them in Asia. He soon found his own working method and signature style, which is characterized by classic forms and carefully carved textures. As one might expect from a physicist, Lee’s work is beautifully ordered and carefully finished. “I like things precise; some people call it control, but I call it mastery.”


To create one of his pieces, Lee starts by throwing clay on a pottery wheel and crafting a cylinder shape. He creates the textured exterior using knives, small balls of clay and other objects. Once the deeply rendered impressions are in place, he has to avoid touching the outside again. Working with his hand inside of the pot, he creates the shape he envisions by maintaining a careful balance between the textured exterior and the thickness of the clay wall.

“The most difficult thing is making the edges meet,” Lee says. “The whole process requires a careful feel that I have honed over time.” His favorite shape is one he calls “oblate,” like his piece, “Desert Sunflower.” “The wall is very thin and it is a challenge to get it just right,” he notes.

After the initial firing, the pots are glazed and fired again. Lee says he has his technique down to a science, using just five different glazes that he applies by spraying. His palette leans towards earthy hues of brown, gold, rust and celadon. But even with all of his experience and precision, sometimes things go wrong. “I try things and they won’t work, but I just move on.”

Lee is quick to explain that he never anticipated making a living doing ceramics, but he aspired to be successful enough to allow him and Donnie to travel around the world in search of new ideas and techniques. That goal has been met as the couple has taken multiple trips to Africa, China, Japan, Korea and Vietnam. One unexpected result of these adventures is that Lee felt a need to reciprocate the kindness and welcome he experienced while working abroad with fellow potters.


Lee initiated an informal residency program. Potters—usually two at a time—come to California and stay at his home. For a two-week period, the visiting artists work in his studio and discuss and share techniques. Many of the visitors had never been to the United States and some did not speak much English. Lee and his wife provided room and board and, when not working in the studio, they would show them around the Bay Area. Lee estimates that he and Donnie have hosted around 30 people so far, although the Covid epidemic put a temporary halt to their home-stay program.
As one might expect, it was a learning experience for everyone involved. “A lot of Asian potters also love to cook,” says Lee, so the first field trip with guests is usually to a Korean grocery market where they stock up. Lee and Donnie are planning a trip to China in the fall and hope to reestablish their artistic residency program after they return.

Looking around his tidy, well-organized studio and the adjacent, well-lit gallery space where examples of his work are beautifully displayed, Lee notes that the amount of time he’s spent working with pottery now almost equals his time in tech. While he has leveraged his previous experience in marketing to sell his work through his website as well as on Etsy, Lee says that most of his pieces find buyers through word of mouth. In summer, you can find him at the annual Palo Alto Glass and Clay show, where he’s been a regular participant. He also holds two open houses a year in his studio, with the next one set for December 6 and 7.


In Japan, the concept of Kakko Nintei, or Living National Treasure, has been formalized into a coveted honor for a select group who not only excel at a traditional art form but also dedicate themselves to teaching it to apprentices. The designation comes with an annual grant from the Japanese government to help artisans devote themselves to their crafts. Lee says that he has met a few of these living legends on his travels. “They were interesting men and not arrogant, as one might expect,” he recalls. “Mainly, they feel the need to share and pass on their knowledge.”
Is that a designation he would like for himself? Lee just laughs.

The artist shares that one of the best consequences of his decision to become a full-time potter has been the wonderful experiences he and Donnie have shared on their travels. During a recent trip to Iceland, a region not really known for ceramics, he visited a shop that mainly sold functional pieces. Surprisingly, there were a number of pots that were made using a “crater” technique of glazing that he has experimented with in his own work. He met the artist and she shared her glazing formulas, a generous gesture that he did not expect.

“Making ceramics is a bond,” explains Lee. “My wife says we can’t go anywhere in the world where I don’t have friends or won’t make new friends.”

portola potter – leemiddleman.com

Retro Revival

Words by Loureen Murphy

Perhaps the custom handle and lock on the front door tipped her off. Or maybe it was the diamond-shaped stained glass inset above it. Either way, when designer Jennifer Wundrow entered this 1930s Hillsborough beauty, she found original charm worth preserving while she restored the Mediterranean Revival’s youth.

Her clients wanted to infuse their new surroundings with color and pattern, use their personal pieces and still honor the home’s original character, explains Jennifer, the principal of her eponymous firm, Jennifer Wundrow Interior Design. The homeowners sought an elevated-yet-livable vibe that worked for all the members of their young family.


They faced the immediate challenges of inaccurate floor plans plus a short timeline. Sometimes you don’t find out the plans are inaccurate until you try to place furniture that should fit but doesn’t, Jennifer says. Well-versed in designing remote projects sight unseen, the designer and her team simply took their own measurements and proceeded.

Despite the obstacles, this project flowed smoothly. From the onset, Jennifer synced with the clients, who found her online. Because designers and clients work so closely together, fluid communication and mutual understanding are key. “There’s a designer for everybody. Find the person who fits best with your style and personality,” Jennifer advises.


Open the front door today and tucked in the stairway curve, you’ll see the clients’ desk repurposed as an entry table holding images of a beloved dachshund—a nod to family history. The graceful staircase and its ornate cast-iron railing are untouched and speak to the home’s previous decades.
To one side of the entry, a glorious stained glass picture window frames both the garden and the memories still to be made in the home’s family room. On the neutral sofa, throw pillows in leafy upholstery and an earth-toned blanket echo the garden view. Both here and in the living room, fun and sophisticated indoor-outdoor fabrics can withstand daily use without sacrificing elegance. As a mother herself, Jennifer says she has insight into what materials work well for young families.

Visible through a living room arch, the dining room broadcasts its “fresh take” in every detail. Weeping Pine wallpaper by Schumacher reinforces the airiness created by the French doors and windows at the far end. A solid wood table and plush, deep-colored chairs ground the room and invite you to linger over dessert and engaging conversation.


In the nearby powder room, a mini destination unto itself, lush Indigo Garden wallpaper by Borastapeter envelopes the space, complemented by the dark counter and contrasting with the warm wood vanity and terra cotta-hued custom floor tiles.

For the family-focused clients, Jennifer and team created a 547-square-foot accessory unit attached to the back of the garage. The one-bed, one-bath living space sports a well-equipped kitchen, a comfortable living area touched by earthy greens and browns, and a dining area adjacent to the kitchen. It adds up to a place that the clients’ out-of-state parents can call home no matter how long their stay. With three entrances, including two sets of French doors that infuse the place with light, “it looks like it has been there all along,” Jennifer notes.


Besides that addition, Jennifer retained the existing floor plan with one vital exception. Schlepping laundry from the garage to the bedrooms upstairs proved impractical. So Jennifer took space from the primary bedroom’s closet to create a place to set the wash cycle on “easy.” She also warmed up the bedroom itself with a bold floral textured wallpaper and bedding and furnishings in natural shades of blue and green. White drapes allow for privacy while keeping the ambience light.
Down the hall, soft comfort fills the nursery, where a nubby swivel-rocker and hassock call for cozy story times and rainy afternoon cuddles under the wicker-shaded lamp.

Throughout the home, Jennifer heightened the effect of original features like arched stained glass windows, niches and through-ways with the accents around them. Original hardwood floors remain, while added Roman shades and wall coverings with playful prints, sconces and vintage-look carpets render the nonagenarian home young, fresh and livable.

The revived home reflects her clients’ personalities and the homeowner-designer synergy. “I love when clients feel heard,” Jennifer says. Particularly satisfying in this case? “These clients weren’t afraid to express themselves in texture and pattern.” As always, Jennifer and team didn’t restrict themselves to any particular style or aesthetic, because they like to stretch their imaginations. “All design can be beautiful if you put the thought in,” concludes Jennifer.

lively refresh – jenniferwundrow.com

Dining Darling

Words by Elaine Wu

Yeobo, Darling is arguably Menlo Park’s buzziest new restaurant. But for husband and wife owners and executive chefs, Meichih and Michael Kim, that was never the goal. They say the eatery is more of a love letter to the food of their combined cultures and the community they call home. “It’s a very personal restaurant,” Meichih says. “There’s a general respect for each culture and an open-mindedness that travel gives you. And that’s what our menu is a reflection of. We want people to come in open-minded.”

Having met while working the kitchen at the now shuttered Craft in Los Angeles, Meichih and Michael eventually went on to open Michelin-starred Maum in Palo Alto, and then the more casual Bao Bei in Los Altos. Their experience working at award-winning restaurants (Per Se and Benu for her, SPQR for him), along with their heritages—Meichih is Taiwanese American and Michael’s Korean American—make up the foundation for Yeobo, Darling. “There’s a lot of different cultures in each dish, but at the end of the day, our menu is very cohesive,” Michael says. “What resonates with me is what I grew up eating,” Meichih adds. “We marry that with all our experience in fine dining and put that all into one bite.”


A self-declared “voracious eater” as a child, Michael has always loved food. But for Meichih, her culinary passion didn’t appear until she was in college. “I would miss my mom’s cooking and try to make her dishes,” she recalls. “I realized I enjoyed cooking and thinking about how to execute a dish, change it, revise it. I really loved that process. After college, I worked as a financial analyst and sitting there got so monotonous that I couldn’t see a future in it. I’d watch cooking shows and realize how much I enjoyed cooking, so I applied to culinary school and would go at night after work.”

Michael and Meichih are true partners in both work and life—not working together is no longer an option. “We weren’t a couple when we started working together, so we have a level of professionalism and respect for each other as chefs,” says Michael. “A lot of people who are coupled and try to work together later in life don’t have that base, so that causes conflict.” Meichih adds, “We have the same goals and want to uplift each other. We know how to step in for each other when we need to and when to step back when we should.”

The word “yeobo” is one of endearment in the Korean language, akin to calling someone “darling.” It was a longtime wish for Meichih to name a restaurant using the term, but it also sets the tone for what the couple is trying to accomplish. “There’s a lot of heart to that word. I think what we’re doing here really plays on that,” she says.

The eclectic menu blends their Korean and Taiwanese backgrounds. Customer favorites include the Chinese braised beef lu-rou lasagna, a scallion croissant with rou-song (Chinese pork floss) butter and the wagyu kalbi shortribs. Michael has a sentimental attachment to the cold Korean noodles on the menu, in particular. “I love the somyun pine nut dish because it’s very nostalgic for me. My grandparents used to make it for us when we’d visit them in the summertime in South Korea.” In Michael’s version, diners garnish and then mix a bowl of creamy aerated froth to reveal the long noodles hidden below.

Interior design is another passion of Meichih’s, and she took full advantage of that when it came time to create the look and feel of the restaurant. Soft colors and sophisticated accents are incorporated with thoughtfully designed elements in each of their custom-made furniture pieces. This includes the drawers built into each table to hold the flatware for guests to access. And their dining chairs have a leather “shelf” built into the bottom so people can store their purses and sweaters safely without compromising comfort.

Yeobo, Darling is a reflection of both of its owners, from the menu to the design. But it is also a symbol of how the melding of cultures can create something new and uniquely beautiful to share with the community. “This is a place we would want to dine at,” says Meichih. “There’s attention to detail and a focus on sourcing the right ingredients. But we also wanted it to be approachable to the neighborhood. We want people to feel comfortable dining here.”

culinary marriage – yeobodarling.com

This recipe for the classic Korean dish requires marinating the beef overnight for optimal flavor and tenderness. Pair it with rice and kimchi. Serves 10-12.

Marinade
²∕³ cup soju (Korean rice alcohol)
1²∕³ cups water
1½ cups sugar
1²∕³ cups soy sauce
½ teaspoon black pepper

Pour soju into a medium sauce pan. Boil for about 5 minutes to cook off the alcohol.

Carefully add the remaining ingredients and bring back up to a boil, stirring gently. Once it boils, promptly remove from heat and let cool to room temperature.

Meat
2½ pounds thinly sliced ribeye
or shabu beef
½ medium onion, thinly sliced 
1 scallion, including white and green parts, 
julienned into 1-inch pieces
½ cup oyster mushrooms, sliced
3 tablespoons sesame oil
10 cloves garlic, grated 
1¾ cups bulgogi marinade

Combine all ingredients in a bowl, mixing thoroughly until the meat has absorbed the marinade. Cover and refrigerate overnight.

Heat a large sauté pan over medium-high heat. Add meat and sauce, and cook approximately 5-7 minutes, stirring with chopsticks to prevent it from forming clumps.

The Beat on Your Eats: Wine Bars

amour amour
san mateo

Come for the wine, stay for the tapas at this intimate downtown gem. With an impressive menu that skews Spanish and French (with a large dollop of Italian), you’ll want to alternate tippling tempranillo with an array of irresistible house-made dishes like seared scallops, Spanish meatballs and goat cheese crostini with fig jam. The eclectic European decor evokes a romantic holiday vibe that’s ideal for date night. Known for its friendly, convivial ambiance, Amour Amour is also a great place for catching up with friends. You’ll want to settle in with a bottle or two, fill the table with scrumptious small plates and make a night of it. 305 E 4th Avenue. Closed Sundays.

rouge lounge
san carlos

Stop and smell the rosé at Rouge Lounge, a place that brings the high life to the everyday with twinkling chandeliers, a fireplace, red curtains and a Parisian-style patio. An ode to feminine strength, Rouge Lounge is a woman-owned establishment that proudly displays prints of Audrey Hepburn and Marilyn Monroe on its cheery cherry-colored walls. “Our eclectic and ever-growing wine list features a mix of exceptional local and California wines to European wines,” says co-owner Sema Tosun, who runs Rouge Lounge with her husband. Make sure to accompany your glass of pinot with prime ribeye tacos, Italian flatbreads or curated cheese platters, then settle in for a little live music. 890 Laurel Street. Closed Mondays.

the wine room
Palo Alto

Malbec or merlot? Sauvignon or syrah? You’ll find them all at The Wine Room, a welcoming spot right off the main drag of Palo Alto’s University Avenue. Within this small adobe house with its red-tile roof, you’ll find an unpretentious but cozy space with plenty of places to hang out—the perfect locale for an evening of shared moments and intimate conversation. If the weather is warm, enjoy outdoor seating in a plant-lined, European-style courtyard in the alley flanking the building. “Think of us as your friendly neighborhood lounge,” the owner shares on The Wine Room website. “I just wanted to create a place for a more sophisticated crowd (dare I say adults, maybe grown-ups) to hang out.” 520 Ramona Street. Open daily.

Newish Noshing

Words by Sharon McDonnell

Mango and pomegranate might not be the first ingredients that come to mind when you think of Jewish food, but you’ll find them on the menu at Bubbelah, a new eatery in Menlo Park offering a tasty education in this wide-ranging cuisine.

Known for his Italian restaurants, Che Fico in San Francisco and its Peninsula outpost Che Fico Parco Menlo, chef and co-owner David Nayfeld’s Bubbelah is a return to his roots as the son of Jewish immigrants from Belarus, a former Soviet republic. “The world of Jewish food is vast, due to the diaspora and migration to so many countries,” David says. “I love the flavors, which are bold and beautiful, and want to share that Jewish food is so much more than matzoh ball soup, latkes and brisket.”

Bubbelah (an affectionate word that means “darling” in Yiddish) is a casual dining restaurant with a cheerful ambience and sunflower-design tabletops. It replaced the short-lived Mercato di Che Fico in Springline, the luxury live-work complex whose many restaurants are a beacon for foodies on the Midpeninsula. After a quick makeover, the reborn space opened as Bubbelah in June.

Many of the eatery’s dishes are Sephardic or Mizrahi, which might be less familiar than the Eastern European food associated with Jewish delis. On the menu you’ll find amba, an Iraqi-Jewish sauce composed of pickled fermented mangoes, that pairs well with David’s fried potatoes, which also come with feta cheese, tahina, chiles and Aleppo pepper. The falafel, deep-fried chickpea balls, have bright-green centers revealing abundant parsley, mint and cilantro. Arayes is a Lebanese pita sandwich stuffed with ground beef and served with yogurt sauce and schug, a garlicky and herbaceous Yemenite condiment.

I found pomegranate arils in several of my dishes: muhammara, a walnut-red bell pepper spread; the spiced carrots with harissa, almonds and shallots; labneh, a strained yogurt topped with toasted sesame seeds and sumac; matbucha, a North African spiced tomato salad with red bell peppers; and an apple-cabbage salad dressed in a cumin vinaigrette.

Bubbelah isn’t David’s first foray into serving Jewish cuisine. He introduced some Roman-Jewish specialties at his Italian restaurants, like crispy-fried artichokes and suppli, deep-fried balls of rice, cheese and tomato akin to arancini. But Bubbelah is a personal project that excites him. “I wanted something near and dear to my heart,” he says. In 2016, before opening Che Fico, and after working as the senior sous chef at three-Michelin-star Eleven Madison Park in New York City, David launched a Russian food pop-up called Mama Galina in San Francisco’s Mission District.

 

Bubbelah’s menu roams the globe, from khachapuri, a dish from the former Soviet republic of Georgia, to kebabs of beef, chicken and fish. But David’s khachapuri, a boat-shaped bread that usually has melted cheese and a runny egg in the middle, features feta, mozzarella, spring onions and poppy seeds instead. “This combo made sense to me,” he notes. “I wanted feta for the zing and brininess, mozzarella for the meltiness and the poppy seeds reminded me of New York bialys. I like to make something my own.” His kebabs, made of meat or white fish like cod or rockfish, aren’t served on skewers. Instead, they’re tucked inside pita or lavash wraps that contain hummus, tahina, pickled turnip, shredded cabbage, garlic sauce, amba and schug (often spelled zhoug), a spicy sauce made from serrano peppers, cilantro and garlic. Kebabs are also served as rice plates.

“Those foods were very present in my childhood. Both my brother and I were latchkey kids because our parents worked and started their own businesses,” David explains. To help out, the family had live-in help from a series of Soviet women who hailed from Georgia, Uzbekistan and Ukraine. Russian meat kebabs are very different from Middle Eastern and Turkish kebabs, David notes. The Russian variety, called shashlik, are marinated meat cubes grilled over hot coals, while the latter are meats that can also be shaved from a vertical spit. Sturgeon is also used in Russian and Armenian kebabs.

Bubbelah’s mezze plate omits the ubiquitous hummus, and is a riot of color that features muhammara, labneh, matbucha, carrot salad and baba ganoush. Three of David’s favorite dishes are his matzoh ball soup, khachapuri and falafel, where “we developed the recipe ourselves.” His matzoh ball soup contains generous portions of shredded chicken and diced carrots in the broth, with the surprising addition of ground chicken in the matzoh meal for a boost of extra nutrition.

 

“As I get older, I’m more conscientious about my health. Last Passover, I wanted to make matzoh balls for my daughter but wanted her to get more protein, so I added chicken. It has a much more silky texture and is almost like a chicken dumpling,” says David, who recently penned the cookbook Dad, What’s for Dinner? It contains over 80 “unfussy” recipes from ravioli to lasagna, focusing on simple and yummy foods that encourage kids to become more adventurous eaters.

Despite his sterling pedigree—which includes being a semifinalist for the 2023 James Beard Foundation’s Outstanding Chef Award and a stint at Joel Robuchon’s The Mansion at MGM Grand in Las Vegas—David’s also a fan of more rustic fare and exudes enthusiasm over Bubbelah. “The food is great for lunch or dinner and is highly deliverable,” he promises. Expect new offerings like sabich sandwiches and dishes for the Jewish holidays.

chef’s choice – bubbelah-mpk.com

Nature Calls: Fantastic Fall Hikes

Words by Andrea Gemmet

On a recent Tuesday morning, I find myself on the Betsy Crowder Trail in Portola Valley inspecting an oak gall. I had no idea what these golf ball-sized spheres were before embarking on a two-hour hike led by Midpeninsula Regional Open Space District docents. Now, I’m fascinated by these weird little orbs.

Poetically described by my Midpen guide Tony as made out of “an oak tree’s tears,” galls form around a single wasp egg, protecting both the tree and the larva that eventually hatches and chews its way out. But they’re also useful for us non-wasps. For at least 2,000 years, people have crushed oak galls and combined them with water and iron to create a permanent black ink. How permanent? The United States Constitution was written in oak gall ink, as was Ireland’s famous Book of Kells and the ancient Dead Sea Scrolls.

Windy Hill Open Space Preserve, where you’ll find the Betsy Crowder Trail (along with the occasional oak gall), is just one of many gems in the Peninsula’s treasure chest of public trails in county parks and preserves.

Cover Photo: Courtesy of Alex Song / Photo: Courtesy of  Douglas Sheaffer

I’ve been to Windy Hill dozens of times, but this is my first hike with a group and a guide, and it’s clear that I still have a lot to learn. I come away with fun facts about the pretty (but mostly poisonous) types of berries that grow in late summer and fall, and a renewed determination to spend as much of this autumn as possible outdoors.

While there’s no bad time to get out in nature, this season holds special delights with its cooler days, colorful leaves and migrating birds. Spring wildflowers are glorious, but the reds and golds of autumn can be just as beautiful. I asked Lauren Ford-Peterson, a ranger for San Mateo County Parks, and Midpen rangers Marianne Rogers and Robin Reiterman Curtis to share their expert advice on the best places to stretch your legs while enjoying glorious fall weather.

Whether you want to go on a short, leisurely stroll or challenge yourself with a lengthier hike among autumnal flora and fauna, here are some remarkable routes for you to try.

Photo: Courtesy of San Mateo County Parks

Dean to Crystal Springs trails, Huddart County Park, Woodside (moderate/strenuous)

Keep an eye out for black-tailed deer and turkeys amid the fall colors on this 5-mile loop, says Lauren, who’s been a ranger with San Mateo County Parks since 2018. Along the trail, you can spot bursts of bright yellow leaves from California hazelnuts. “They look like they are floating, since the branches are so thin,” she says.

Tips: Start your hike at the Zwierlein Picnic Area. Huddart Park has a $6 vehicle entry fee, but you can borrow a free county park pass from any San Mateo County library.

More Options:
Nonette Hanko San Andreas Fault or Franciscan Loop trails, Los Trancos Open Space Preserve, Los Altos. Expect to see excellent fall colors from maples, madrones and bay laurel trees on these short routes that have steep sections (especially Franciscan Loop), says Ranger Marianne. Hike both trails for a challenge or slow down with a self-guided earthquake tour on the San Andreas Trail, where you can shuffle and crunch your way through colorful fallen leaves “like a five-year-old on the East Coast.”
Purisima Creek Trail, Purisima Creek Redwoods Open Space Preserve, Half Moon Bay. Choose your own adventure with an 8-mile out-and-back that starts from the Redwood parking lot on Highway 35 or take it easy by starting at the small lot off Purisima Creek Road and turning around at the 2-mile mark for a route that’s mostly flat and bordered by colorful big-leaf maples and redwoods, says Ranger Marianne. Look down to spot banana slugs and rough-skinned newts (But don’t touch!) or search high in old-growth trees for marbled murrelets, a black-and-white seabird that comes ashore to nest.

Photo: Courtesy of San Mateo County Parks

Cowell-Purisima Trail,
Half Moon Bay (easy)

This 2-mile out-and-back route is Ranger Lauren’s personal favorite. It’s where she goes for runs and takes her kids on her days off. “During the fall, it’s peaceful and hosts a beautiful view of the coastline.”

Tips: For an accessible route, start on the south trailhead, right off of Highway 1, and turn around when it narrows to a single path heading down to the creek. Visit on weekdays or come early on weekends to nab a spot in the small parking lot.

More Options:
Salamander Springs Trail, Bear Creek Redwoods Preserve, Los Gatos. “Last year, we opened a ton of trails on the east side of the preserve,” says Ranger Robin. Find colorful big-leaf maples on this shady new trail, perfect for hot fall days. Parking can be tough on weekend mornings.
Horseshoe Loop Trail, Skyline Ridge Preserve, La Honda. “I hiked it for the first time in the fall and honestly, it was breathtaking,” says Ranger Marianne, noting the colorful big-leaf maples and red-barked madrones. The trail is an accessible 1.2-mile loop around the aptly named Horseshoe Lake, and a good spot for birding.
Zinfandel Trail, Picchetti Ranch Preserve, Cupertino. On this easy, 1.9-mile out-and-back trail, poison oak is easy to spot in the fall, when it turns bright red. “One of my favorite things is, after the first rain, there’s a seasonal pond that starts to fill up,” says Ranger Robin. After hiking, you can relax with a glass of zinfandel at the historic Picchetti Winery.

Photo: Courtesy of Mike Kahn - MROSD

San Francisco Bay Trail, Ravenswood Open Space Preserve, East Palo Alto (moderate)

This small preserve connects to the 350-mile (and growing) Bay Trail, so you can extend your hike as far as you’d like. “It’s paved and flat, great for biking and really beautiful,” says Ranger Robin. For an unusual source of fall color, check out the pickleweed growing in the briny marshlands. When it turns red, it’s absorbed all the salt it can take and is about to drop its leaves. You might see a salt marsh harvest mouse or ridgeway rail, two endangered species that thrive in this habitat.

Tips: Bring your binoculars and do some bird-watching at the preserve’s observation platforms. Parking is usually easy.

More Options:
Pillar Point Bluff to Jean Lauer trails, Moss Beach. This 1.6-mile loop offers views of Montara Mountain and the San Mateo County coastline. Leashed dogs are allowed on the bluff trail, but not on the beach, which is in the Fitzgerald Marine Reserve, says Ranger Lauren.
Hazelnut to Weiler Ranch trails, San Pedro Valley Park, Pacifica. This 4.1-mile loop offers valley views and an occasional glimpse of the Pacific Ocean. Ranger Lauren suggests popping into the visitor center, open 10AM-4PM on weekends.

Yountville Jaunt

Words by Johanna Harlow

A weekend in Yountville isn’t meant to be action-packed. With one main street bordered by restaurants, tasting rooms, boutique hotels, spas, a Panama hat shop and not much else, this is the kind of destination best savored at a slower pace. Wine, dine and expect the sublime in one of America’s most sophisticated small towns.

Cycle or Stroll

As you roll into town, get the lay of the land with a quick stroll. It’s only a breezy 20-minute walk from one end of tree-lined Washington Street to the other. As you scope things out, appreciate Yountville’s abundance of sculptures by taking the free self-guided art walk available online at townofyountville.com/238/art-walk.

Prefer cycling to strolling? Pick up a cruiser or e-bike at Napa Valley Bike Tours & Rentals or, if you’re checking into North Block Hotel, commandeer one of its complimentary bicycles to coast through downtown and the surrounding neighborhoods. For a more rustic route, take Yount Mill Road out of town and zip along verdant vineyards, the Napa River and surrounding hillsides dotted with grazing cows.

Cover Photo: Far Niente / Food Photo: Courtesy of David Escalante - RO Restaurant & Lounge

Remarkable Restaurants

Ready for the town’s renowned restaurant scene? We’re sure you’ve already heard of a little place called The French Laundry, but the area is overflowing with outstanding options. Beyond his legendary three-Michelin-star restaurant, Chef Thomas Keller has opened several more eateries around town, including RO Restaurant & Lounge, a partnership with his chef de cuisine, Jeffery Hayashi. This Asian-inspired dining destination delights in bringing the artful and unexpected to your table. Take the creamy uni on fresh brioche from the bakery down the road. Or the wagyu flat iron steak with shio koji marinade and cherry tomatoes, a sweet and savory synergy with bright acidity. Or caviar on ice cream. It shouldn’t work, but it does, the light saltiness of the cheesecake-like ice cream harmonizing with the miso caramel and pop of royal-grade caviar.

My favorite meal comes from Bottega Napa Valley, an Italian spot with an inviting interior in shades of amber and copper and a big sunny patio. Lunch starts strong with pesce crudo, the fish of the day stunningly presented atop a block of pink Himalayan salt and crowned with flowers and microgreens. Another highlight: the Sophia Loren pasta, celebrating the icon’s 80th birthday. It comes with tomatoes prepared three ways, including a robust sauce reduced down with chicken bones to impart a remarkable depth of flavor. “I describe the sauce like Sophia Loren herself—timeless, bold and full of character,” describes Chef Alex Espinoza.

 

Photo: Courtesy of Bottega Napa Valley

Drawn to all that glitters? Make your reservations at RH Restaurant, a wonderland of chandeliers in a greenhouse-like space brimming with olive trees. Seekers of all things cozy should head to Ciccio for wood-fired pizzas, rustic charm and rigatoni. Meanwhile, admirers of seafood will savor vermilion rockfish highlighted by aromatic laksa soup or lobster tail and chitarra pasta adorned with Early Girl tomatoes and basil at The Restaurant at North Block. If you want to let the chef show off, opt for the Valley to Coast Tasting Menu.

For those staying at North Block, slip into siesta mode back in your room, laze by the pool or curl up on patio furniture at the hotel’s European-style central courtyard. With contemporary décor of warm earthy tones, plus a patio or balcony in every room, and stellar staff, it’s easy to see how North Block earned its two Michelin keys.

Photo: Courtesy of Douglas Friedman

Cue the Cabernet

What’s wine country without a tasting or two? Expect high-caliber wines across the board at Stewart Cellars, which received recognition for three of its offerings in Wine Spectator’s Best of the Best list of California cabernets this year. There’s something for everyone, from the bold GSM blend with brambleberry notes and elegant tannins to the bright sauvignon blanc with characteristics of lemon and lime. Winemaker Blair Guthrie admits that he avoided working with this white wine since his country of origin, New Zealand, is drowning in the stuff—but Sonoma County’s approach to the varietal won him over. “I’m trying to express the California sunshine so you get those more tropical notes on it,” he says. “But I very much picked this wine early to also try and express those beautiful herbaceous notes that you get in New Zealand sauvignon blanc.”

Prefer to be in view of the vines? A 10-minute drive to nearby Oakville will take you to historic Far Niente. As you turn off the main road, a corridor of bowing trees ushers you to the tasting area. Your table, idyllically situated beside a pond and a pergola, seems straight from a Thomas Kinkade painting. “We let the weather be the expression,” our steward Scott Cook says as he pours a ruby red cabernet and pinpoints 2016, 2018 and 2021 as exceptional years for the varietal.

Photo: Courtesy of  Nickel & Nickel

At its sister property, Nickel & Nickel, let the cabernet have its say with a tasting exploring five variations of one varietal. You’ll learn what gives each its distinct character on a porch overlooking the mountains or in the historic Gleason Barn. The barn dates back to 1770 and was transported from New Hampshire before being rebuilt piece-by-piece. It’s one of the oldest (if not the oldest) buildings in California, and you can feel the weight of history in its hand-hewn beams.

Museum Meanderings

Just outside of town, you’ll also find the Napa Valley Museum of Art & Culture. Opened earlier this year, The MAC is currently still showing its interactive inaugural exhibition Julia Child: A Recipe for Life through March 8, 2026. Dedicated to the chef, author and TV personality who adapted hundreds of complex French recipes for American home cooks, the exhibit embraces all the senses. You’ll walk among huge pictures from Julia’s life, open pots to catch a whiff of her most popular recipes and peek into kitchen cabinets to watch clips from Julia’s cooking shows, her voice’s distinctive warble greeting you like an old friend.

Photo: Courtesy of Johanna Harlow

Windows in the gallery’s wall allow you to watch a class at the teaching kitchen of Under-Study café next door. If Julia’s journey inspires you, tie on an apron and join them. But if that sounds like too much fuss, don’t worry. In laid-back Yountville, slowing down and savoring your stay is always on the menu.

small-town stay – yountville.com

Exploring the Foothills

Words by Johanna Harlow

It’s a crisp fall afternoon and you’re headed to a concert at Saratoga’s Mountain Winery. As you drive through the wooded Saratoga and Cupertino foothills, a series of enticing adventures bid you pull over. On Highway 9, your route wraps around the shimmering Stevens Creek Reservoir and winds along the nearby creek. Opt for a meandering route along Skyline Boulevard and Big Basin Way, and you’ll whisk by boutique vineyards promising enchanting tasting rooms and signs pointing to county parks. Every branch off the main road murmurs of possibilities. The discerning explorer will heed the call and return to the region when there’s time to spare.

Winning Wines

Where to start? You’d do well to prioritize the region’s pride and joy: its boutique wineries. Not only do the vines flourish with temperature fluctuations from fog and elevation, but you’ll also stumble across stellar views everywhere you turn.

House Family Vineyards makes for a great start. With shaded couches flanking the hilltop’s crest, you’ll sip wine while scoping out neighboring vineyards as hawks coast on the air currents overhead. The tasting menu is excellent—ranging from blanc de noir with hints of white nectarine and a honeydew finish to cabernet sauvignon with black fruits and a touch of spice—but it’s the well-aged wines that truly sing. “Merlot is a crooner, the Sinatra of wines,” reflects winemaker Jim Cargill as I sip a 2012 vintage. “It can be velvety smooth. However, it often needs some back-up singers: cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc and maybe petite verdot. These other varieties really help shoulder the wine through the palate. They give it
the nuance to finish and deliver a complete wine.”

 

Photo: Courtesy of Mount Eden Vineyards - Jason Tinacci Photography

This region’s wine history dates back to the mid-1800s when a hunter and trapper by the name of Elisha Stephens arrived after leading the Stephens-Townsend-Murphy Party across the Sierra Nevada, the first wagon train to successfully make the crossing (two years before the ill-fated attempt of the Donner Party). After settling in Cupertino, then known as West Side, Elisha planted a vineyard and blackberry patch—and had a slightly misspelled creek named after him. Many more followed suit, including
several sea captains who decided to drop anchor and put down roots (and vines).

French and Italian immigrants propagated grape cuttings after settling along rugged Montebello Ridge. It continues to thrive today with places like Picchetti Winery, with a brick tasting room dating back to the 1880s and plenty of peacocks on its property, Vidovich Vineyards, which welcomes picknickers, and Ridge Vineyards, which received praise for its cabernet from The New York Times’ chief wine critic Eric Asimov. Further south, sip pinot and ride a palomino (just not at the same time) at Garrod Farms, an estate winery and stables dating to 1893.

Photo: Courtesy of Domaine Eden - Keith Westra Photography

You have to be willing to work for your tasting at Mount Eden Vineyards, traversing a steep and winding road that turns to dirt toward its destination. But when you stand before the showstopping panoramic views of this untouched paradise, you’ll find it’s well worth the bumpy ride. The view stretches from Moffett Field and Shoreline to Apple Park and downtown San Jose, then gives way to the untamed Santa Cruz Mountains. Settle into a rocking chair on the porch for a highly informative chat about everything from the soil’s geological composition to the harvesting process. And don’t forget to appreciate the ivy that cloaks the adjacent house and creeps along the awnings, its leaves fluttering in the breeze. Its sister winery Domaine Eden, perched on the neighboring mountaintop, is also worth a visit.
Note that many of these boutique operations only offer tastings by appointment, so be sure to check winery websites before you jump in your car.

Get Active

It’s time to liven things up with an activity or two. First stop: the reservoir at Stevens Creek County Park. While you’re not allowed to dive into this enticing man-made lake, there are plenty of other ways to soak in its splendor. Kayak its waters or hike along its shore on the Tony Look Trail. You’re also welcome to bring your casting rod to hook bluegill and bass (though catch and release is recommended due to the recent discovery of mercury in these fish).

Photo: Courtesy of Sandip Bhattacharya

Feeling competitive? Bring a few frisbees and try your hand at the Villa Maria Disc Golf Course. Just a few minutes from the reservoir, this woodsy 11-hole course is perfect for a little friendly rivalry.

You might also choose to embrace your inner archer by loading your quiver over at the nearby Bowhunters Unlimited Archery Range. Whether you opt for haybale targets spread across a hillside clearing or a walking course winding through the woods, it’s sure to be a major hit. Not yet a Robin Hood on the range? Not a problem. Sign up for a lesson via the Bowhunters Unlimited website and you’ll be striking bullseyes in no time.

Speaking of pointy things, consider stopping by Skyline Chestnuts in nearby La Honda for the annual autumn harvest of the world’s spikiest nuts (buckets and suitably thick work gloves provided).

Long Ridge Open Space Preserve / Photo: Courtesy of Kirk Lougheed

Take a Hike

The hikers among us will be pleased to find the foothills overflowing with trails and lofty outlooks. All are welcome at the Fremont Older Open Space Preserve, including horseback riders and cyclists. Check the Midpeninsula Open Space website for docent-led cycling ventures along the popular paths of this preserve (an upcoming one on October 26 has a History on Two Wheels theme). Located on the urban fringe of Santa Clara Valley, the park’s Woodhills Loop Trail leads to stellar citywide views at Hunter’s Point.

Over at Saratoga Quarry Park, you’ll discover remnants of a historic quarry and informative plaques about the area’s industrial past, plus well-maintained trails, primo picnic areas and a hidden labyrinth.

Last but not least, trek the breathtaking Hickory Oaks Trail at Long Ridge Open Space Preserve. Follow the path as it rolls gently over the grassy hills, the surrounding mountain ridges and misty forests stretching as far as the eye can see. As the sun turns in for the night, bid the foothills a fond farewell.

Landmark: St. John’s Cemetery

Words by Margaret Koenig

Despite being the only graveyard in San Mateo, St. John’s Cemetery goes largely unnoticed unless you seek it out. Hidden along a dead-end street within a quiet, residential neighborhood, the nine-acre site has sometimes been referred to as a secret garden—although you’ll find far more gravestones than flowers. The crowning jewel is the elaborate Parrott family crypt, where generations of the Parrott family are buried. It dates back to 1886, the year that immensely successful banker John Parrott Sr. died. John and his wife Abby owned the 377-acre Baywood estate in San Mateo and after her husband’s death, Abby devoted her life to philanthropy. She regularly hosted meals for the local homeless population at her estate, and donated six acres of land to the Roman Catholic Church for the creation of St. John’s Cemetery.

The graveyard initially offered three consecrated acres for Catholics and two unconsecrated acres for Protestants, as well as a designated area for “paupers.” Since those days, people from all walks of life have been buried here. Near the Parrott family crypt is the impressive mausoleum built for Agnes Poett Howard Bowie, another early resident of the area. These elaborate structures stand in stark contrast to the simple crosses marking the graves of those of modest means. Off the main path, you can find these unassuming memorials clustered near one edge of the cemetery’s grounds. Some have headstones so old and faded that they are nearly illegible, the identities of their inhabitants erased by the relentless passage of time. With a population of 3,700 souls, the cemetery is nearly full, but some space still remains for those interested in spending eternity within its peaceful grounds.

Diary of a Dog: Athena

Words by Margaret Koenig

I’m Athena, and while I’m living the good life in Menlo Park now, I spent my first seven years in a laboratory, subjected to experiments seeking cures for tickborne diseases that affect cattle. Beagles like me are known to be docile, trusting and loyal. I was bred specifically for experimentation but thanks to a lucky break, my life has become so much more than that! I was rescued by the Beagle Freedom Project, and after being fostered briefly in Los Angeles, I started my new chapter with John and Kate in Menlo Park. They named me Athena, after the Greek goddess of wisdom and strength, a nod to their grandson’s interest in mythology. My name proved very apt. Let’s just say that I’ve had some medical issues, and I’ve conquered them all, sometimes against daunting odds. A year ago, my oncologist estimated that I had only a few weeks to live, and yet here I am, turning 12 this month and still thriving! No one can explain it. Just call me a little miracle. I happily occupy my days sunbathing, napping on any soft surface and soliciting belly rubs. I crave constant affection, and with my big brown eyes and sweet demeanor, John and Kate find me hard to refuse. I like to stretch my legs on long walks, and recently started bringing along my favorite toy, a stuffed lemur. As for the lab where I spent my formative years? It’s now an animal sanctuary called Freedom Fields. My happy ending may have been a long time coming, but thanks to John and Kate, it was worth the wait.

Calling All Dogs: If you've got quirky habits or a funny tale (or tail) to share, email your story to hello@punchmonthly.com for a chance to share a page from your Diary of a Dog in PUNCH.

Perfect Shot: Looking for Lunch

While out for a hike near Crystal Springs Reservoir, Michael Pagano crossed paths with this wily coyote on the hunt for a little lunch in the tall grass. We’re not sure if this stealthy stalker was successful, but Michael certainly caught a captivating moment.

Image by Michael Pagano / @paganogafx

Calling all Shutterbugs: If you’ve captured a unique perspective of the Peninsula, we’d love to see your Perfect Shot. Email us at hello@punchmonthly.com to be considered for publication.

Q&A: Juggler Matt Hall

The juggling Japanese teacher discusses hosting Gunn High School’s Game of Throws, his ninja phase and the strangest thing he’s thrown in the air.

Just how many balls can you keep in the air?
My record is nine balls, and I regularly perform up to seven balls in my act. The world record is 14 balls, which is mind-boggling.

So when did the juggling start?
After watching the Flying Karamazov Brothers on TV, I taught myself to juggle when I was about 10 years old. I really started juggling when I bought Charlie Dancey’s Encyclopaedia of Ball Juggling at age 27 and set a goal to learn every trick in the book.

What’s the weirdest thing you’ve juggled?
Lawn chairs backstage on the America’s Got Talent set.

Where are some of the places juggling has taken you?
England, Australia, New Zealand, Israel, Scotland, Canada, Netherlands, Mexico, Denmark as well as all over the U.S.

What’s a tricky travel situation you can laugh about now?
Realizing that rupees were not exchangeable outside of India. It meant I had to spend three days living in Bangkok Airport because I had no money.

Can you tell us why you love juggling conventions?
I cannot recommend these events highly enough. They happen all over the world and come in all shapes and sizes. Locally, may I humbly recommend Game of Throws, hosted by the Gunn High School Juggling Club? It happens in late January with about 500 attendees, and is free for all.

What’s the dumbest way you’ve been hurt?
Stitches on my forehead from a failed front flip, trying to impress a girl in high school. Not my finest hour.

Where did you learn Japanese?
When I was a first-year student at the University of Notre Dame. (Go Irish!) I was chosen to spend my sophomore year in Tokyo at Sophia University. Later on, I spent three years teaching on the JET Program in Fukuoka and another two years working for the Japanese Consulate in Chicago.

What drew you to the Japanese language?
I read Shōgun when I was 14 years old and all I wanted to do was become a ninja. My high school did not offer Japanese so I took French instead, but when I got to college, it was all Japanese, all the time.

Do you have a favorite city in Japan?
Tokyo, in my opinion, is probably the best city on the planet. Sorry, New York.

What is your most cherished possession?
I would say my two cats—Sammy and Black Fuzzy—but they are definitely not possessions, but rather members of our family with full voting privileges. If anything, they own me.

Did you have a dream job as a child?
When we took an occupational test in junior high, my scores in adventure and new experiences were almost off the chart. Raiders of the Lost Ark had just come out and I wanted to be Indiana Jones.

What’s something that makes you grateful?
I am so lucky to say that I found a hobby, and got good enough at it that it has provided 20-plus years of free travel around the world, in addition to meeting hundreds of great folks.

Path to Gold

Words by Johanna Harlow

When Katie Holloway Bridge lists off her sports injuries, she does so with the casual air of one who recognizes this comes with being a professional athlete. “I’ve had dislocated pinkies. I broke this bone in my eye and I’ve broken my right hand,” says the sitting volleyball athlete and five-time Paralympian. She shrugs off a torn hip. “It’s not something I take time off for. It’s just going to be there.” When Katie takes to the court, her inner warrior awakes. “It’s not me at all!” she promises. But “when I get angry, I play better. I’m like, ‘How dare you think that you’ve worked harder than me? That you deserve this more than me and my teammates?’… I play with a chip on my shoulder.”

From the start, the six-foot-three athlete fought for her place on the roster. Born without a fibula in her right leg, Katie underwent amputation as a toddler. While that didn’t keep her from playing sports (trying basketball, T-ball and soccer at the age of four), she wasn’t as fast as the other children. “I was cut from a lot of sports teams growing up and just felt like I always had to prove myself,” Katie says. And the other kids weren’t always kind. “I was the tallest girl, I had one leg—you name it, I was ‘the other,’” observes Katie. Middle school girls could be particularly mean, especially behind the closed doors of the locker room. Katie took to hiding her prosthetic with tall socks and long pants. “I got out of high school swimming when I was a freshman because I was terrified of taking my leg off and being in front of people.”

But competition is in her blood. Katie’s father played football for Central Washington University, her professional golfer cousins took to the green and her sister sank baskets at Seattle University. Katie’s persistence paid off, earning her a spot on the basketball team at California State University, Northridge. Though she didn’t know it at the time, Katie was the first female amputee to compete at the NCAA Division I level. “I just want to be treated like everyone else,” she says with a shrug.

Looking back, the professional athlete notes, “College basketball was … a lot.” Katie makes an expression somewhere between a grin and a grimace. “I’m very proud of playing at the D1 level, but also, every day, hated it.” She pulled through thanks to daily calls to her family. “I also walked away with lifelong friendships and knowing how much I could withstand,” she reflects. It was also at Northridge where Katie fell in love with an entirely different sport involving a court and a net.

 

The U.S. sitting volleyball team only spent a brief stint training on Katie’s college campus, but it was just long enough for her to get hooked. “It found me,” Katie says of Paralympic sports. “There were women like myself who were amputees who loved exactly who they were … it transformed my life.” Thoughtfully, she adds that it happened at just the right moment. “I was very moldable in that time of my life.”

That doesn’t mean sitting volleyball didn’t take some getting used to. Accustomed to tough-love coaching, Katie didn’t know what to make of all the positive reinforcement. During basketball practices, “We would miss a shot and we’d run … you’d be half effort and we’d run. I am haunted by the word baseline.” Volleyball on the other hand? “It’s like, ‘Out of those 10 balls, you did eight well. What did you do right?’” she describes with a chuckle. “That was hard to get used to!”

But adjust she did. Five Paralympic games later, Katie is at the pinnacle of her sport. “In the first part of my career, we were chasing down gold and we were the underdogs. I’ve always been an underdog, so I feel like that’s a really good place for me to be mentally,” she notes. After winning silver medals at both the Beijing and London Paralympics, Katie’s team took gold at the following three games. After winning in Rio, there was more pressure to be perfect, she notes. “In Tokyo and then in Paris, we were who people were going after. All the eyeballs are on you.” The best countermeasure? “Trust the process and trust your teammates,” Katie says. “Trust you’ve done everything you can—and just play the game.”

After the glamour of the games fades away, it’s back to business as usual. Katie trains at the Riekes Center in Menlo Park, a multipurpose space with athletic facilities and recording studios that supports veteran and adaptive sports. “Whatever you need, we’re here for you,” they told Katie when she first moved to the area. “And that’s been true ever since,” she says. “They’ve been my center and my rock!” The center even lent her a studio to record Inside Parasport, a podcast Katie hosted with Paralympic swimmer and cyclist Kelly Crowley.

What does Katie wish more people knew about Paralympians? “We’re elite athletes, and it’s not just about our sob story,” she declares. “We operate at the highest level in our sport with a very unequal amount of resources so we often have full-time jobs.”

But the persistence of these Paralympians pays off when they’re proudly standing before the world. Nothing beats that charged moment of walking into the opening ceremonies at your very first Paralympic Games, says Katie. “The lights come on you and you walk out of the tunnel and it’s just this wall of sound. All you can hear is ‘U-S-A! U-S-A! U-S-A!’ It gives you goosebumps.”

Essay: A Forever Friend

Words by Sloane Citron

Each summer, my brother Dan and I meet in Denver, where he lives and practices medicine, and from there we drive to Amarillo, Texas, where we grew up. We stay with a dear family friend who now has the ramshackle cabin that her parents built in the Palo Duro Club. An offshoot of the Palo Duro Canyon, it’s in one the most beautiful places in America, and also one of the least-known. After the Grand Canyon, it is the second largest such canyon in our country.

While Dan relaxes at the cabin—hiking, swimming, wildlife watching and hunting for arrowheads—I spend a good portion of my time hanging out with the same kids I grew up with. There’s Julie, my kindergarten girlfriend, Scotty, my first friend who lived three houses down from me, Susan, my grade school gal. And at the top of the list is Mike, one of my closest and dearest friends in Amarillo, or anywhere, for that matter.

I left for prep school at Andover following middle school at Austin Junior High, and I was mostly miserable 3,000 miles from home, where I was slow to adapt and slower still to make friends. Whenever I flew back for vacations, my father would pick me up at the airport and take me to our family home. Every time—and how he always knew I still don’t understand—sitting in his car waiting for me was Mike. You couldn’t ask for a more loyal pal.

I have gone back to Amarillo once a year throughout my entire adulthood, first to visit my dad, and after he died, to visit my friends. As time passed, I realized that those visits helped me understand who I am. They allowed me to enjoy an environment totally different from the frantic pace of the Peninsula. It is a lovely city, with beautiful 1940s homes, brick streets and kind, friendly people. And every visit included spending time with Mike, playing golf, hanging around his family’s printing company, reminiscing about the outrageous things we did as kids.

Mike has done something that few can achieve: he inherited a medium-sized family company, grew it and successfully handed it off to his highly capable son, Jake, who is now powering the firm forward.

Two years ago, while on my annual visit, I noticed that Mike seemed a tad bit off. We were out at the dusty country club we grew up at ($5,000 to join today!) and he had a hard time introducing me to people and making decisions. I didn’t think much of it, since recalling names is at the bottom of my own skillset.

But then, during our regular phone calls, I noticed more challenges and difficulties. I called his daughter, Kacie, and she told me that Mike had been diagnosed with early onset dementia. It knocked me for a loop. Last year, during my visit, the changes were a bit more pronounced, though we could still do most everything we would normally do, and Mike was still working with his son to manage the company.

But over the last year, as is inevitable, things have gone downward. Mike is still there but he repeats thoughts, calls me up the next day after we have talked to tell me the same things we discussed the day before and was gently removed from any management duties at the company. I don’t know the details of his dementia diagnosis, but it’s real, whatever it is.

Fortunately, there was an old home, not used for much of anything, attached to their printing company. After some minor renovation and a good cleaning, the house was the perfect place for Mike, since he enjoys wandering around the printing plant and kidding around with the employees, who all love him.

Mike had always been there when I needed a friend. Goodness begets goodness, and now it was my turn. On my latest trip, I hosted a dinner party in his honor—not just to celebrate him, but to surround him with the people who mattered most in his life, and to remind them of how deeply they still matter to him now. The night was alive with laughter and stories, and for a few precious hours, the weight of his illness lifted. Mike was happy. And that was everything.

I love Mike, and it tears at me to see how cruelly this disease is stealing from him. But love calls us to act. As it’s said, helping one person may not change the whole world, but for that one person, it can mean the world. For Mike, for those we love, we must keep showing up—with our time, our presence, our hearts. Because in the end, that is how we honor both friendship and life itself.

Snug Seaside Escape

Words by Sheri Baer

Nestled at the juncture of Tomales Bay and Bodega Bay and tucked at the end of a dead-end road, discovering Dillon Beach requires intention. So why set a course for this remote destination? Along with crisp ocean air, soul-cleansing views and a mile of dog-friendly beach, the small town’s biggest enticement is a cozy enclave of custom-made tiny homes. A natural point of convergence, Dillon Beach Resort calls for gathering your crew—be it family or friends—for coastal playtime and escape.

Getting There

Highway 101 will get you there faster (just an hour-plus past the Golden Gate Bridge), but taking the more scenic Highway 1 expedites the mental transition from tense to tranquil. After you pass through—or linger a bit—in charming Olema and Point Reyes Station, the route hugs the Tomales Bay coastline, revealing tantalizing glimpses of Point Reyes Peninsula, oyster shacks and barnacled fishing boats. The town of Tomales marks the turn-off to the final four-mile stretch down Dillon Beach Road. Cue wisps of coastal fog, and the journey’s end evokes Brigadoon, if the mystical Scottish village suddenly materialized with miniature houses.

Cover Photo and Exterior Shot: Courtesy of Kassie Borreson

A Transformative Tale

The winsome sight that greets you is a far stretch from what Mike Goebel saw back in 2016. A serial hospitality entrepreneur, Mike opened his first San Francisco bar at age 25, followed by a string of bars, nightclubs and restaurants, and eventually, Petaluma’s famed beer garden, Brewsters.
Then Mike heard about a rare opportunity in West Marin—a historic site dating back to the late 1800s: 55 acres of coastal land associated with an RV park, plus a restaurant, general store, privately-owned beach and parking lot. “It would take a unique operator to be able to handle all those different business operations,” he recalls thinking. “It was in rough shape and the RV park was in shambles.”

And yet… “You could see the potential with this dramatic view and location,” Mike smiles in retrospect. “We saw the gem that it could be and just went to work breathing life and love back into the property.”
When Mike and his partners took ownership in 2018, the tiny home movement emerged as the perfect solution for the space’s zoning requirements. Along with three updated historic cabins, the resort offers 25 compact dwellings—all remarkably efficient without compromising comfort. “We want people to enjoy the units not only when it’s sunny and beautiful with the wonderful views,” Mike says, “but also if it’s foggy, cold or rainy, hunkered down by the fire with a blanket and a good book.”

Photo: Courtesy of Kassie Borreson

Year-Round Escape

For the tiny home curious, Dillon Beach’s cottages come in five sizes and styles, blending both novelty and nostalgia. With “coastal farmhouse distress” accents and retro-style appliances, rooms range from 150 square feet (pull-down Murphy bed—up to two guests) to 530 square feet (bedroom, sleeping loft and sleeper sofa—up to six guests). Perched on a bluff with extras like private decks and panoramic vistas, the resort also features an inviting mix of communal spaces. Think wine-o’-clock in Adirondack chairs, games of cornhole, s’mores over a fire pit and visits to the onsite General Store for morning coffee and pastries or Double 8 Dairy soft-serve in the afternoon.

Worth noting: the General Store keeps year-round hours, stocking carefully curated provisions and merch, from surf gear to grab-and-go bites and picnic supplies including local wines and artisanal cheeses. Meanwhile, the property’s Coastal Kitchen serves up farm- and sea-inspired seasonal cuisine with signature takes on clam chowder, fish and chips, and shrimp tacos.

Photo: Courtesy of Hog Island Oysters

Foodie Excursions

Surrounded by West Marin’s bounty of farms and seafood, Dillon Beach prides itself on sourcing from local purveyors. The same fresh ingredients—from the chèvre-style goat cheese sold in the General Store to the plump, salty oysters on Coastal Kitchen’s menu—can also be your guide to foodie outings and adventures.

An easy 10-minute hop away, Toluma Farms & Tomales Farmstead Creamery presents a bucolic peek into farm life with tours and cheese tastings. This dairy is a rarity that produces award-winning cheeses of both goat and sheep’s milk. Whether you’re taking in the milking parlor or grazing pastures, you’ll get behind-the-scenes insights, but visit during kidding season (late April to May) to add adorable baby goats into the mix.

Photo: Courtesy of Tamara Hicks - Toluma Farms

Oyster farming in Tomales Bay dates back to the 1870s, a storied tradition tied to the area’s rich coastal estuary and tidal conditions. For a deeper dive, book a tour of Hog Island Oyster Co., where you can learn how oysters are grown, along with shucking and tasting them. Stop by The Hog Shack to pick up shellfish to-go or enjoy Hog Island hospitality at The Boat Oyster Bar or down the road at Tony’s Seafood, where you’ll find oysters served raw with lemon and Hogwash mignonette, and grilled selections including chipotle-bourbon butter and Tony’s BBQ sauce.

Established in 1909, Tomales Bay Oyster Co. is California’s oldest continuously run shellfish farm and another option for buying fresh oysters, clams and mussels. That same family-run farm is behind The Marshall Store, a beloved seafood shack with ambiance to match. Dating back more than 90 years, waterfront favorite Nick’s Cove offers a revamped menu with callouts like “fries with eyes” (smelts) and a smoked black cod dip served with fried saltines. Pro tip: save room for a fish bowl sundae with deliciously whimsical cotton candy crunch.

Back at Dillon Beach Resort—an unpolished gem that’s shining brightly once more—Mike plans a rollout of experiences including live music, wine tastings and open-fire beach dinners. But the underlying vibe remains constant: kicking back at the seashore. “We want families to come out and share it with other families and their friends,” Mike summarizes. “Bring the kids, bring the dog. You’ve got the beach and West Marin’s iconic sites all around you. It checks a lot of boxes.”

outsized fun- dillonbeachresort.com

Essay: Our Soulless Society

I watch as the world moves forward, and I’m not impressed.

Those of us alive today seem destined to accept that which is put in front of us, without the ability to change much. The untouchable corporate and internet world dominates most of what we buy, watch and read. No longer are there many alternatives, places we can give our business and where we might find an owner who would actually take the time and care to serve us.

Along the way, I’ve come to believe that we are part of a growing, unrelentingly soulless society.

I looked up the definition of “soulless” and it said, “the lack of human feelings and qualities,” and that is indeed how we now live much of our lives, reduced to dealing with computers at every stage of our day, with little opportunity to be heard or to live differently.

Because machines are so capable today, it is far easier and cheaper for the companies that dominate our lives to make us live in a world without human contact. If you have an issue with Google, Amazon, Netflix or Facebook, go ahead and try to find a human to help you. It’s possible to go through a whole day and never have a conversation with another person. That doesn’t sound good and it’s certainly not a recipe for a healthy and fulfilling life.

Yesterday, I had to go to Ikea, my least favorite store, to buy a shelving unit that holds metal baskets. We use them in our playroom so that the plethora of toys, games, puzzles, Legos and books can be organized, at least while the nine grandkids (all age six and under) aren’t there.

I preplanned my visit so that I could avoid the labyrinth-like layout that defines the store. When I could not find the location of the boxes I needed, I asked an employee who, without a word, pointed to a screen a short distance away where I could look it up myself. I eventually found my box and headed to the shortest line—which was the self-check-out line. I went through it without a word to anyone.

From there, I had lunch with a friend at a new, hip Palo Alto restaurant. Though it is rather expensive and high-end, we had to place our order on a screen at the front. A sign pointed to where we would pick up our food when it was ready. If you wanted water, there was a self-serve area for filling a glass. When I realized that we would literally have no human connection, I was a bit flummoxed when the machine gave me the options for a 15-, 18- or 20-percent tip. How about none—does that work for you?

After lunch, I headed to Target to look for a 49ers shirt for my grandson Noah’s third birthday. The store was cold and lifeless. There was no music, nothing cheerful, nothing to make my experience enjoyable. I couldn’t find a football jersey (or anyone to ask about it) but there was a nice one for the Giants, so I walked to the front, where the self-check-out line beckoned. Again, I was in and out of the store without any interaction with a human.

These stores are all competing for their lives with Amazon, that great killer of everything dear—a monolith that our government has allowed to grow unchecked, destroying everything in its wake, from bookstores and toy stores to pharmacies and delivery companies. It got me realizing that there really wasn’t much of a difference in experience between large corporate-owned stores and Amazon anymore. The advantage of the store is that you can see a product and take it home with you. Amazon’s advantage—which seems to give it an insurmountable lead over, well, everyone—is its ability to deliver your goods the next day from an endless selection at an unbeatable price.

Once you are home from your soulless, human-free day out, there is little conversation with your family because they are absorbed by their phones or iPads. And instead of calling someone on the phone to see how they’re doing—and to hear the emotions and nuances in their voices—we text them or maybe email or WhatsApp them.

One can literally go through a full day—out and about and “communicating” with others—with no meaningful human interaction. I think we underestimate how much is lost when we eliminate the conversations—even the small ones—in our day. Just saying, “Hello, how are you?” or “How’s your day been?” brings a touch of humanity to us all.

Soulless. That’s where we are and we’re diving in deeper with AI, which will only make matters worse. Even with my introverted personality, I am trying to engage just about every human I encounter. My friend Dan showed me the way. Ask a waiter about themself; ask the postman about his routes; open doors for everyone; help an older person or a young mother navigate their way.

Fight it and don’t give in. Don’t let the soullessness being foisted upon us turn you into a soulless person. Make local bookstores, mom-and-pop restaurants and independent hardware stores your destinations. And while you’re there, make sure to ask everyone how their day is going.

Q&A: Maryles Casto

The former flight attendant, Filoli board member and founder of Casto Travel agency shares her favorite moments and biggest lessons from a lifetime in the air.

What was your first flying experience?
On my father’s two-seater plane, doing acrobatic maneuvers. That’s when my love affair with flying began.

How did you approach your job as a flight attendant for Philippine Airlines?
I learned early on to treat every passenger who boarded my flights as a guest in my home.

Did you have any stressful situations while working?
On a DC3 flight, heavy turbulence caused by a big altitude drop caused the rear baggage compartment’s cover to open. Roosters in cages got out and flew around the cabin. Chasing after them was quite an undertaking!

What does travel mean to you?
It’s a classroom without walls.

Which unfamiliar foods have you eaten on your travels?
A piece of alligator (which tasted like chicken), cockroach (ugh!), snake and snails.

What was one of your most memorable flights?
On a flight originating from a city of mostly native tribal groups, two fierce warriors in full regala carried on their kris swords. I asked the pilots to help and was advised (with amusement) that their swords were a sign of authority and would not be surrendered to this newbie flight attendant. I sat the warriors down right in front of my seat where I could have my eyes glued to them the whole flight.

How did this stand-off conclude?
Just before landing, it was part of our service to pass around a tray of candies. My two gold-toothed warriors considered it a gift and smiled. It was a happy ending.

Can you share an important life lesson?
Whether you choose to stay the course or try a different
path, anywhere you go, your strength, abilities and talents
go with you.

Tell us about one of your more adventurous travels.
Paddling down the Sepik River in New Guinea in dugout canoes to reach Karawari Lodge. The canoes were very uncomfortable—the seats were directly on each crossbeam—but the river also had many villages where we could stop. We chose it because it was remote, still undiscovered and we could experience its various ethnic groups and their traditions.

What’s your favorite souvenir from that Sepik River trip?
It’s more of a treasure. It’s the mask that a medicine man from a headhunting tribe was wearing. He fancied my old sneakers and a barter was reached.

What have you been watching lately?
The Americas, a nature series narrated by Tom Hanks.
It’s an incredible journey, exploring the creatures and ecosystems from North to South America, with unbelievable footage of snowy mountains, wildlife, tropical rain forests and the oceans.

Diary of a Dog: Mathilda

As told to Margaret Koenig

I was named for the heroine of the classic children’s book, and while I may lack my namesake’s prodigiousness, my lively spirit more than makes up for it. I’m Mathilda, a four-year-old bernadoodle (half Bernese mountain dog, half poodle) born at Swiss Ridge Kennels in Ontario. Because the U.S.-Canada border was closed during the pandemic, my journey to Menlo Park was complicated. I was driven to the border and met by a “puppy nanny” who spent the night with me in Buffalo, New York, before flying to SFO. Robin, who had been kept informed of every detail of my journey, met us at the airport. We were equally excited to finally meet each other! My life with Robin in Menlo Park can be summed up as snooping, socializing and spinning. My favorite activity is sitting high on a hill where I can watch over the world (and spy on everyone I see). I love to meet and play with humans and dogs alike. There’s a transitional home for young adults up the street, and when I meet them on walks, I freely bestow my kisses and affections. I’m equally excited to interact with fellow dogs. The neighborhood knows me for my pirouettes, when I throw myself into the air in greeting. My energetic nature has occasionally led me into trouble. I failed a Canine Good Citizens class after launching myself at the examiner and, in Robin’s words, “going ballistic” on a rescue dog that had been brought in to test everyone. They promised I could try again when I’m older. Until then? I’ll be right here, keeping an eye on everyone and happily twirling.

Calling All Dogs: If you've got quirky habits or a funny tale (or tail) to share, email your story to hello@punchmonthly.com for a chance to share a page from your Diary of a Dog in PUNCH.

Perfect Shot: Salty Scenery

Ted Simon’s aerial image of a salt pond’s livid hue casts the perimeter of the Bay in an otherworldly light. Tiny microbes that thrive in the briny brew are responsible for the color—the saltier it is, the redder it gets. Ted, a local historian raised in Belmont, has been on a years-long mission to document the area’s transformation through his photos and interviews with locals.

Image by Ted Simon / tjsimon@pacbell.net

Calling all Shutterbugs: If you’ve captured a unique perspective of the Peninsula, we’d love to see your Perfect Shot. Email us at hello@punchmonthly.com to be considered for publication.

Seaside Sax

Words by Johanna Harlow

At a beachside venue in Half Moon Bay, a jazz quartet is getting into the groove. The bandleader, a vibraphonist named Jalen Baker, wields his mallets in ways that require quite a lot of core strength. The bassist bobs and bends, the pianist plunges into a rousing riff and the drummer builds into cymbal-crashing crescendos. It’s a good day to be at the Bach Dancing & Dynamite Society.

“I love places like SF Jazz … I give them a lot of credit, but it’s not my favorite place to go hear jazz. I’d rather be here,” says Barbara Douglas Riching. In addition to her role as artistic director and president, she’s also the daughter of the Bach’s fiery and free-spirited founder, Prentice “Pete” Douglas.

Cover Photo: Courtesy of Brian McMillen / Balcony Photo: Johanna Harlow

You need only attend a show at this 200-seat venue to sense the palpable intimacy and authenticity of this place. “My dad felt very strongly that jazz was like chamber music—and it should be presented that way, in a very intimate situation. I totally agree,” says Barbara. “People feel like they’re a part of one organism in this room. It feels like we’re all really connected.” The greats have flocked here since its opening in 1964, with Etta James, Bobby Hutcherson, Bill Evans, Duke Ellington and Dizzy Gillespie taking the stage.

Beginning with a Bang

At 17, Pete snuck into his first bar and encountered Southern California’s spirited jazz scene. The contagious music of swing, bebop and West Coast jazz caught hold of his soul and never let go.

Later in life, Pete took a gig as a San Mateo County probation officer. “More beatnik than beat cop, Pete didn’t conform with correctional life,” reports The Mercury News on Pete’s life. “He wrecked his county-issued Chevrolet—and cracked gum in court. He was most comfortable wearing a Mediterranean fisherman’s cap and smoking a pipe.” The siren song of the sea drew Pete to Half Moon Bay, where he bought a ramshackle beer joint and transformed it into a beach house—a lively one where he regularly hosted parties and jam sessions.

Photo: Courtesy of Brian McMillen

On one memorable day, Pete and a few friends were hanging out when visitors popped in to show off some newly acquired dynamite, suggesting they blow it up on the beach. Pete and his pals opted to swing dance to Bach’s Brandenburg Concertos instead, the drama of the music heightened by the subsequent thundering BOOM outside. When Pete opened an official music venue in his home the following year, he had its name all ready to go.

For Pete’s Sake

Having the Bach’s early concerts (along with wedding venue rentals) take over your living room was less whimsical than you might think. “In the ‘60s, when people had weddings, it was a big rock band and people slopping red wine all over the place,” Barbara says. She and her sisters would sneak upstairs to swipe food—and sometimes a little booze as they grew older. “But yeah, we hated it.”

Photo: Johanna Harlow

As word spread, Pete expanded to keep up with the growing demand, adding a dedicated performance space and oceanside deck. But that didn’t change his open-door policy. Pete had a tendency to bring home stragglers of all stripes, at all hours. Breakfast in the Douglas household often meant a hitchhiker, starving artist or wayward teen would wander in mid-meal.

One of those angsty adolescents, Pat Britt, had Pete as his probation officer. Upon seeing the kid’s saxophone, Pete invited him back to the house to play. Music would become a lifelong career for Pat. It wasn’t the only time Pete left a lasting impression. He permitted Tim Jackson, a flute-playing surfer and Volkswagen vagabond, to sleep in the concert hall while working as a janitor and ticket-taker. Tim became Monterey Jazz Festival’s artistic director and founder of the beloved Kuumbwa Jazz Center in Santa Cruz.

Photo: Courtesy of Brian McMillen

Tuneful Tales

Barbara’s gaze grows distant as she journeys down musical memory lane. She resurfaces to recount tales from her time collecting tickets as a teen. “It would get so crowded that the door couldn’t open anymore,” she reminisces. “I would stand on my stool back there and watch the music.”
One favorite performance from this time was with Michel Petrucciani, a pianist who suffered from brittle bone disease. “They literally carried him onto the stage,” Barbara recalls. But there was nothing stunted about the nimble way that man tickled the ivories. “He just blew me away … After a couple songs, I ran downstairs and got my boyfriend. I’m like, ‘You’ve got to get up here!’”

At 85, Pete took his final bow. “For some weird reason, we thought my dad would live forever,” Barbara reflects. Taking up that mantle was no easy feat. “It’s not like my dad ever taught us anything about the business,” notes the director. That said, she was up for the challenge. “The booking came naturally to me,” she shares. “I was exposed to it my whole life. I know all the local jazz musicians.” Thanks to her background as a CFO, business-savvy Barbara also gave the Bach much-needed structure, a ticketing system and a membership program. “My dad … that was not his thing,” she chuckles.

Photo: Courtesy of Jim Bourne

For a Song

What is it about jazz that wins us over? For Barbara, a big part of it is the improvisation. “You really never know what’s gonna happen … It just moves me.” There’s also a riveting dialogue that happens between the instruments. “The musicians work together,” Barbara describes. “You kind of learn how they all trade off.”

Of all the subgenres, her soft spot is “post-bop and instrumental jazz such as John Coltrane.” Wryly, Barbara notes, “A lot of people might call it headache jazz. I love it when you’ve got a sax player and they just solo for five minutes. It’s heaven to me.”

The show has ended. The musicians and audience have gone. And only the director remains. A hush has fallen over the auditorium. But the Bach is just catching its breath—biding its time before again raising its voice in another joyful performance. “One of the greatest things my dad gave me is the exposure to different people and musicians and all the patrons who came here,” Barbara reflects in this quiet moment. “My dad taught us how to listen to the music.”

all that jazz – bachddsoc.org

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