Buzzy Mazra

Words by Elaine Wu

For brothers Saif and Jordan Makableh, the success of Mazra, their wildly popular fast-casual Mediterranean restaurant, has been quite the surprise. After being ranked No. 2 on Yelp’s Top 100 Places to Eat in the U.S. in 2021, less than a year after opening, the duo had no idea what they were in for. “We were panicking because we were so busy,” Saif remembers. “The line would wrap around the building and we were still getting good reviews!” Despite Mazra’s popularity, he still saw room for improvement. “We thought our chances of surviving were low,” Saif admitted.

But after four years and a move to a larger space in Redwood City earlier this year—the original San Bruno location is undergoing major renovations and set to reopen in 2025—Mazra is going stronger than ever. “I’m always telling Jordan that I can’t believe our success,” Saif says. “We’re at about 80 percent of where I want our food to be. You always want things to be better.”

Mazra got its start after Jordan and Saif’s father decided to close his small neighborhood grocery store in San Bruno. Saif convinced his dad to let him try opening a restaurant in the space. As a young adult, he had spent three years in Australia working for an uncle and Saif missed the barbecue culture there. “They barbecue a lot in Australia and you learn a lot about it,” he shares. “We use the charcoal grill at the restaurant because the char is something you can’t get from a gas grill. I hate when you can’t taste the char. It’s so simple and so good.”

Saif also loved how food from the Levant region of the Middle East, which includes Lebanon, Jordan and Iran, was more prevalent in Australia than it is in the Bay Area, thanks to the large Lebanese population. “I was used to Middle Eastern eateries being little falafel shops here in the States,” he says. “But over there, Middle Eastern restaurants are about quality food served in a vibrant yet casual setting. Everything, from the food to the décor, was more vibrant. I thought people would enjoy that in the Bay Area as well.”

As a self-taught cook who has always loved to eat, Saif has manned Mazra’s kitchen from day one, developing, researching and, to this day, tinkering with the most finite details of a dish to make it better. “Our obsession is with the simplest things,” he says. “It’s about how you treat every ingredient in the process of making it. With so many people waiting in line, I can’t just give them tabbouleh that was made hours ago. I just can’t. We will throw things away before we serve it to a customer if it’s not good enough.”

Younger brother Jordan enjoys interacting with customers and making sure they take care of everyone who walks through the door. “For me, my passion is with the front of the house,” he says. “My brother and I like to make sure that our customers are comfortable. It’s so much more than just breaking bread together but making sure everyone’s having a good time.”

To get their hands on popular dishes—like Mazra’s famous six-hour lamb shank with roasted pepper sauce, the brined garlic-and-herb rotisserie chicken and the whole roasted heirloom cauliflower coated in lemon and tahini dressing—customers are willing to stand in a line that extends down the block during peak dinner hours on most nights. But their patience doesn’t go unrewarded. “We have to set you up for success as a customer,” Saif declares. “Garlic sauce and chili sauce doesn’t need to be asked for. It comes with your food here. And for to-go orders, we never serve our main dishes in a three-compartment box. Our salads are packaged separately so the steam from the meat doesn’t affect the salad. We used to take the food home as if we were a customer and open it up to test how things tasted and looked.”

Meticulously crafted food and welcoming vibes have become a winning combination for Mazra. But throughout their journey, the brothers remain grateful for all the success they’ve enjoyed. “Everything about this is love,” Jordan says proudly. “Love for the food, love for the staff, love for the customers. Every single aspect of this place, I absolutely love.”

This popular side dish at Mazra serves as a great palate cleanser between bites of your favorite meats and seafood. Serves four.

ARABIC SALAD

Ingredients
4 cucumbers
3 tomatoes
½ red onion
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 
juice of 1-2 lemons
salt

+ Dice the unpeeled cucumbers into bite-size pieces. To keep them crispy and fresh, refrigerate them until just before serving.
+ Dice the tomatoes and keep them at room temperature for maximum flavor and texture.
+ Dice the red onion into small, uniform pieces.
+ In a large bowl, combine the diced cucumbers, tomatoes and onions. Drizzle them with olive oil and lemon juice to taste. Add salt to taste and gently toss the ingredients until evenly coated.
+ Serve salad immediately. Garnish with fresh herbs like parsley or mint for added color and aroma.

delicious details – eatmazra.com

Crushing It

Words by Johanna Harlow

In small-town San Carlos, tucked between auto repair shops, expect the unexpected. On Industrial Road, in a pair of converted warehouses, you’ll find Domenico Winery and Osteria, an Italian restaurant, winery and event venue rolled into one. “This was not the way it looks today,” chuckles owner Dominick Chirichillo, who runs the business alongside his wife Gloria. “It was just a big, yellow, ugly building.” But while others underestimated the property, Dominick saw a space large enough to stretch his imagination and realize his big dreams. Today, the store front beckons passersby with an inviting stonework façade and a sprawling patio where patrons sit and sip petite sirah.

“Let the grapes express themselves,” Dominick advises from the back room as he twists the spigot on a 3,400-gallon stainless steel tank, releasing a stream of beautiful burgundy. He has been around wine his entire life thanks to his beloved Nonno. His grandfather Domenico Giovinazzo used to make wine in the basement of his New York home back in the 1950s. Dominick fondly recalls squabbling with his cousins over who would help Nonno with the press. “Every Sunday, we would spend at my grandparents—all the cousins and uncles and aunts,” Dominick recalls, describing the big family dinners. “My grandfather would have his gallon of wine. He’d pour and the kids would have wine in their soda.”

Cover Photo and Above Photo Courtesy of: Johanna Harlow

As Dominick gives a tour, the restaurant, event venue and winemaking spaces feel like their own distinct worlds. The industrial-chic event venue is spruced up with funky light fixtures and lined with oak barrels stacked four high. The Osteria charms diners with hanging plants and lights, while a sculpture of Bacchus, the Roman god of wine, watches over guests. Meanwhile, the winemaking warehouse in the back brims with gleaming industrial-grade equipment.

Dominick passes his great-nephew Max, busy crushing three Jacuzzi-sized tubs of grapes with a stainless-steel punch down. “He will be the fifth generation of winemakers in our family,” Dominick says, adding that his oldest son and wife Gloria run the catering side of the business, while his younger son is considering joining the financial side. Gloria has overseen everything from designing wine labels to accounting and interior design. “It can be challenging and rewarding,” says Dominick of working with family. “You run the emotional gamut… It’s no different than any other family.” Adding, “We love each other a lot, and I guess that’s the glue that keeps us going.”

Photo Courtesy of: Paulette Phlipot

It’s hard to imagine that such a massive operation started with just two barrels of wine back in the ‘80s. “I needed something to take the worry that I was going through in my business, set it aside and have some fun,” Dominick reflects, explaining that in his youth, he pursued a career in real estate. That first batch took him six hours to make by hand. “The wine came out well,” he smiles.

Two barrels became 20. Then 60. Soon, Dominick’s basement was practically buried with barrels and he could barely wedge himself between the rows. Ready to take things to the next level, Dominick and his wife Gloria progressed to a 3,000-square-foot space in New Jersey, which let them reach nearly 300 barrels. The couple also founded The Bacchus School of Wine, which they expanded to five locations across the state before they moved to the Bay Area. Dominick’s real estate background helped him hunt down their current warehouse as well as purchase land in Amador County for vineyards.

Photo Courtesy of: Paulette Phlipot

The land’s granite and limestone give the wine a minerality and vibrancy in flavor, Dominick explains. “Grapes and limestone is a real nice story.” After initially planting five acres of syrah and three of primitivo, Dominick continues to expand with other Cal-Italia varietals including aglianico, Montepulciano, nero d’Avola and cabernet sauvignon. “We’re planting 14 more acres of vineyards over the next three years,” he says, which will include sangiovese, nebbiolo, Fiano di Avellino, barbera and others. His favorite to drink? “I would say the wine in my glass!” Domenick jokes, before adding he’s partial to primitivo. It’s the Italian zinfandel, with a velvety bouquet of blackberry and plum and a subtle spiciness that hits at the back of the throat.

To sip and savor, pair food with wine over at the Osteria. This latest addition was designed by Gloria with Chef Gary DiDominick presiding over the kitchen. (“We didn’t hire him for his name,” Dominick laughs). With obvious care taken to acquire quality ingredients, expect excellence in everything from the focaccia studded with tangy tomatoes to the rigatoni with generous chunks of housemade fennel sausage cloaked in a creamy vodka sauce. The flickering flames of a stone hearth pizza oven promise great pies, from the Regina (topped with creamy dollops of burrata, big basil leaves and grape tomatoes) to Dom’s Godfather (calabrese salami and peppadew peppers drizzled in Calabrian chili oil and local honey). If you want a taste of Dominick’s childhood home in Jersey, go topsy-turvy with the Boardwalk Pizza that tucks the cheese beneath the sauce.

Photo Courtesy of: Johanna Harlow

There are more ways to experience Domenico. For team-building seminars, people are split into “winery” teams and everyone competes to design the best label, come up with a marketing plan for their fictitious business and blend wine from several varietals in beakers. “Then everybody goes home with a bottle, of course,” Dominick winks.

They also host Grapes and Giggles, a monthly comedy night, as well as private events—a recent one was his own son’s wedding. “We pretty much run the gamut,” Dominick says, adding that sometimes the festivities even include fire dancers and aerialists. What’s more, people who belong to the Bacchus Winemaking Club can learn the entire winemaking process with Dominick from de-stemming, crushing and pressing grapes to racking and bottling.

While it sounds like more than enough to keep him busy, Dominick is also opening a second tasting room/event venue in the Amador area. When commended for his chutzpah, Domenico’s owner quotes Field of Dreams: “If you build it, they will come!” Wine and big vision are two things Dominick will never have in short supply.

vine life – domenicowinery.com

Heirloom Allure

Words by Sheryl Nonnenberg

The old adage “beauty is in the eyes of the beholder” can apply to just about anything, from art to cars, but anyone who has inherited jewelry knows it to be especially true. Perhaps you love the timeless quality of Grandma’s pearl necklace but will you ever wear that 1970s-era emerald and diamond dinner ring? Maybe not.

Fortunately, there are alternatives to just relegating those items to the back of the drawer. Some jewelry stores specialize in vintage and estate pieces and can guide customers through the process of consigning or refurbishing their unwanted treasures. On the Peninsula, two of the most established and reputable firms, Gleim the Jeweler and Stephen Silver Fine Jewelry, are happy to help.

Gleim the Jeweler is a family-owned firm founded in 1931 with locations in Palo Alto and Los Altos. It has been a mainstay at Stanford Shopping Center since the mall first opened in 1956. The store has always dealt in vintage and antique jewelry, which now accounts for about 50 percent of its business.

Georgie Gleim, owner and president, shares that her grandfather, Frederick Wilhelm Gleim, borrowed $500 in order to start the business. “I have the original logbooks from that time,” says Georgie, “and on his first day, he did not take in a penny.”

Cover Photo and Above Photo Courtesy of: Onysko

Despite its slow start, the store became successful and by the time Georgie was thinking of a career, joining the family firm seemed like the best course of action. “I got to know people in the industry and it was fun,” she explains. At the time, the best way to learn was on the job, but she also obtained a gemology degree from the Gemologist Institute of America. She now holds a certified gemologist title from the American Gem Society that she renews each year.

When a customer decides to clear out their jewelry box, unwanted pieces can be brought to Georgie to examine. The free service offers expert advice about consigning the jewelry for sale or remodeling into something that better fits the owner’s taste. (This is not the same as appraisal for insurance purposes, which entails a fee and a printed document.) If it definitely won’t be worn again, Georgie can measure gemstones, estimate their weight and quality and give an idea of how much it might bring in resale. Gleim is willing to take on items long-term. “Jewelry doesn’t sell quickly,” Georgie says, “but if it’s a fine, beautiful gem, it will find a home someplace.”

However, if items are “poorly made, badly worn or unattractive,” you might be out of luck. Having seen so much estate jewelry over the years, Georgie can educate clients about the pieces they own. “Oftentimes, people will bring something in with the idea of taking it apart but I will tell them, ‘Don’t do it!’ because it is too nice of an antique.”

Photography Courtesy of: Onysko

With the price of gold so high, some customers might just want to have their items melted down, but Georgie takes a firm stance in these cases. “If it is beautiful and well-crafted, I cannot bear to scrap it,” she says. “Lots of beautiful things have been melted because people have taken jewelry to someone who was not educated.”

An example of fine vintage jewelry that eventually found a good home is an exquisite tourmaline piece that a client brought in. “It was from mines discovered in the 1980s,” says Georgie. The piece needed some restoration work and was then placed on consignment for almost two years before finding an appreciative new owner. “It was sold to a woman who loves beautiful gems,” she recalls.

Georgie says that, like most people she knows in the jewelry business, she does it because she really enjoys it. “You deal with beautiful things and often there is a history to it,” she explains, adding, “The fun part about the business is that you never know what is coming through the front door.”
Stephen Silver Fine Jewelry began as an estate jewelry firm in 1980 and is also family-owned and -run. They have two locations, a boutique in Menlo Park and a private salon in Redwood City. Stephen explains why vintage and antique jewelry make up the cornerstone of the business.

“My father fell in love with estate jewelry early in his career, recognizing the superior quality and unique character these pieces offer—qualities that can be rare in the contemporary fine jewelry landscape,” Stephen says. His company obtains vintage jewelry from individuals, estates and a “global network of suppliers, international trade shows and private clientele.”

Photography Courtesy of: Gleim the Jeweler

Like Gleim, Stephen Silver offers complimentary evaluations and redesign consultations. When asked about the allure that makes vintage pieces so sought-after, Stephen has a ready answer. “Vintage jewelry collectors want to purchase and wear a piece of history,” he says. “They love a good story and the more you can tell them about a piece’s provenance, stylistic context and material qualities, the more they appreciate it. These pieces were made to last, often painstakingly fabricated by master goldsmiths using heritage techniques passed down through the generations.”

Stephen says that there is a special appeal to acquiring this type of jewelry. “Collecting vintage and estate jewelry is like embarking on a treasure hunt. Each piece is a time capsule waiting to be opened and understood.”

Heirloom Eras

Before collecting estate jewelry, you’ll want to familiarize yourself with the defining characteristics of different styles. While every era has its devotees—from Georgian and Edwardian to mid-century modern—the most popular periods include Victorian, Art Nouveau and Art Deco. Here is a cheat sheet, with information from Stephen Silver Fine Jewelry. 
Victorian jewelry is known for its rich ornamentation and romantic symbolism, often featuring lockets, charms, signet rings, garnets, crosses and mourning jewelry, crafted in yellow or rose gold. Despite the era’s cultural conservatism, these 19th-century pieces were often whimsical and deeply personal.
Art Nouveau jewelry, from the early part of the 20th century, introduced flowing forms, whiplash swirls, elongated proportions and organic patterns. Chic jewelry makers like Lalique often used colored gemstones, pearls and enamel to bring designs to life.
Art Deco emerged in the 1920s and 1930s, using geometric forms, Egyptian revival motifs and Jazz Age opulence. Great houses like Cartier crafted bold pieces in platinum, often pairing diamonds, rubies, sapphires and emeralds with exotic materials like onyx. This era is known for wide, gem-paved bracelets and opera-length necklaces.

Gleim the Jeweler: gleimjewelers.com
Stephen Silver Fine Jewelry: shsilver.com

Living Large

Words by Sophia Markoulakis

When interior designer Amy Fischer was young, she learned to draw scaled bedroom floor plans from her engineer father. “I fell in love with interior design in third grade and never looked back,” she says of her lifelong passion. “I would draw these floor plans before moving my furniture around and always asked for design accents for my bedroom for birthdays and holidays.”

As the founder and principal designer of Spectrum Interior Design, Amy is now drawing scaled floor plans for her clients, whose projects average between 8,000 and 25,000 square feet. As the name suggests, her firm encompasses the full range of home design services. Silicon Valley, the land of high-end properties, is her niche. The full-service luxury estate design business isn’t for the faint of heart—conceptualizing, managing and implementing projects of this scale requires immense attention to detail and plenty of patience. It’s something that Amy’s worked toward her whole life. And now, after being in the industry for 27 years, the designer knows that being hyper-prepared is a valuable asset for busy clients. “I can cover progress on a 25,000-square-foot home in an hour-long meeting,” she says.

Cover Photo Courtesy of: Dreamside Design / Portrait Photo Courtesy of: Vivian Johnson

Amy’s 4,000-square-foot Mountain View headquarters functions as an open studio, a library of construction and finishing materials, and a home accents showroom for her bespoke offerings, which include seasonal decor services for her existing clients. Though most of her business is referral-based, Amy still looks for additional ways to make her services compelling, providing options for efficient decision-making that resonate with her clientele. “With the Silicon Valley mindset, these clients require facts and vetted variables instead of artistic concepts. During our meetings, I will hand-draw options and then provide pros and cons for each,” she explains.
The Los Altos native started her career working for a custom builder while earning her interior design degree. “I really pay tribute to working 15 years with that luxury custom home builder, because it was there that I learned the value of a talented team and collaborating with the architect and builder for the most successful outcome,” Amy says.

Photo Courtesy of: Dreamside Design

Those lessons helped launch Spectrum in 2012. “Having a team in place and looking at a project from the architectural and construction lens early on really streamlines the process,” Amy shares. “And with the mindset of this being completed as an interior design space, it creates a streamlined and better client experience.” For the majority of her design projects, she acts as the liaison advocate on behalf of the client and coordinates with the builder, architect and landscape designer.

Many of Amy’s clients work with her long after the dust has settled and they’ve moved in. She offers a la carte services such as holiday decorating (plus storing the items and keeping an inventory) and has even decorated a yacht or two. “We have clients who need consulting on large-scale events at their homes and we coordinate with event planners,” she says. “We build strong relationships with clients over four years and we hate to say goodbye, so whatever helps to support their lifestyle from the perspective of design, we do.”

Photo Courtesy of: Dreamside Design

Since the pandemic, Amy notes that her clients are looking to incorporate the elevated experiences that they encounter during their travels into their houses. She finds that local executives tend to work very hard and want their homes to be a refuge. “They want the spa experience at home with things like an infra-red dry sauna, steam baths and cold plunges,” Amy says, adding that pretty much every project she’s currently working on includes a cold plunge.

Other trends Amy’s seeing? Technologically enhanced lighting for wine displays and cellars, home theaters with fiber optic ceilings mimicking a starry night sky, two laundry rooms and multiple outdoor dining rooms for specific types of entertaining.

Photography Courtesy of: Vivian Johnson

Though she’s savvy about including trending experiences, Amy’s own design aesthetic trends toward the timeless and is focused on implementing what the client finds beautiful and calming. “Our clients have an appreciation for beauty and are looking for opportunities to experience it in the home,” she stresses.

When Amy isn’t working on other people’s houses, she enjoys spending time on the coast with her husband and two dogs. She also enjoys painting and detailed still-life drawings. Her two children, both in college in Southern California, have helped with the business, and her husband, a project manager in the construction industry, was instrumental in launching Spectrum’s home accessories and seasonal decor division.

As a busy entrepreneur herself, Amy understands her clients. “The Silicon Valley growth mindset is inherent in what we do,” she says. “Tech’s innovation and the commitment to excellence is so rooted in the area and its culture, and is very specific to who we serve.”

estate plans – spectruminteriordesign.com

Landmark: Baylands Vignette

Words by Margaret Koenig

Ahundred feet above the marshes of Baylands Nature Preserve, Mary Lucking’s “Baylands Vignette” renders the landscape in aluminum and steel. The art installation, which was commissioned by the city of Palo Alto in 2021, sits on the bike bridge that spans Highway 101 and reaches over the preserve itself. In creating the piece, Mary sought to emphasize the minutiae of the natural setting, giving viewers a sense of the Baylands below. The three central aluminum sculptures are embellished with shapes that recall the marshes’ features: delicate insects, tall grass, ripples of water. Around the sculptures, steely blades of grass replicate the sensation of being nestled down in the marsh. “Up in the air and overlooking this beautiful view, you have one sort of experience,” Mary describes, “but it’s a different experience when you’re down in it, where you get to see all these little details … when you’re in the Baylands, the scale of what’s really interesting is so minute. So you’ll see the texture of the grasses, and the way the water rushes over the rocks, and the little tiny bugs and birds. My thought was to bring some of that up onto this resting point.” Deliberate in every aspect, Mary put careful thought into her unconventional choice of materials. “I wanted to make something that was really touchable, that you wanted to run your hands over,” she says of her handcrafted artwork. “One of the inspirations for the way it looks is old silver tableware from the 1900s, where it’s kind of smooth and worn, but it just feels good under your fingers.” The aluminum sculptures are thoughtfully shaped so viewers can sit comfortably on them while taking in the surrounding landscape.

The Beat on Your Eats: International Soups

Soup’s on! Brothy bowls from around the globe.

la fonda restaurant

Redwood City

La Fonda Restaurant—a cheery, approachable space decorated in splashy colors—is just the place to banish those winter blahs. To pep you up, try a spicy bowl of pozole. Made hearty with hominy, pork, chiles and onions, and garnished with thin slices of radish and cabbage, this soup is served alongside tostadas with sour cream and fresh cheese. While you’re there, you might as well splurge on the mole poblano—chicken cloaked in a rich and savory chile-chocolate sauce and accompanied by rice, beans and handmade tortillas. 820 Veterans Boulevard. Closed Sundays.

pho ha noi

Palo Alto

Vietnamese pho, like American comfort soups tomato and chicken noodle, is good for the soul. At Pho Ha Noi, beef pho is the favorite, arriving at your table studded with fresh green onion and cilantro. Blow the savory steam until it’s safe to start slurping up rice noodles and spoonfuls of fragrant broth. Consider pairing it with grilled pork served on a bed of vermicelli noodles or roasted kui fei chicken with sticky rice. The restaurant is walking distance from the Stanford Theatre so if you’re seeking another cozy indoor activity, pop over to watch classic films like Casablanca or Singing in the Rain in this 1920s-era movie palace. 185 University Avenue. Open daily.

max’s of burlingame

Burlingame

As the trademarked warning on Max’s menu notes, this decades-old restaurant is a bad place for a diet. Well-known for its ample (some might say over-the-top) portions, even the soups come in generous servings. Sharing the menu with deli classics—matzoh balls in chicken broth, clam chowder (only on Fridays) and Russian cabbage soup with diced brisket—is the très continental French onion soup. Served in a traditional crock and overflowing with gooey cheese, the rich broth concentrates the sweet and savory flavors of slow-cooked onions, just the thing to soothe away the chill of a winter’s day. 1250 Old Bayshore Highway. Open daily.

Soak and Sip

Words by Sophia Markoulakis 

Having grown up in Sacramento, it’s no surprise that I never met a pool I didn’t want to plunge into, feet first. But as I’ve gotten older, I’ve become allergic to pool water below 85 degrees. Seeking warm water to soothe my joints, I recently headed to Napa Valley’s Calistoga for hydrotherapy and relaxation. Often referred to as the “end of the road,” it’s the last Napa County city as you travel north on Highway 29.

While California’s first millionaire Sam Brannan put Calistoga on the map in the 1860s, prior settlers and indigenous people had long benefited from its geysers and underground springs. In 1905, a historic electric train carried affluent San Franciscans to Calistoga where they could soak in pools at properties like the Mountain View Hotel and Indian Springs Resort. Today, the electric train has been replaced by electric vehicles that transport people like me who are eager to enjoy both the area’s spas and its wine industry.

I checked into the Calistoga Springs Resort and immediately sensed that I had found a local gem, where hotel guests and locals alike make themselves at home at the property’s outdoor pool area. My spacious room with a sitting area and kitchenette had a separate bedroom and large bath. As soon as I unpacked, I donned my robe and headed out the door to explore the first of four pools. The largest and coolest of the bunch was a tepid 85 degrees, perfect for some laps. The other two pools were heated to temperatures between 90 and 100 degrees. The giant whirlpool, situated under a massive gazebo, registered a toasty 104. After a couple of hours submerged in various pools, I felt relaxed yet refreshed.

The hotel’s no-frills charm is a bonus for families and large groups. Outdoor barbecues and plenty of patio furniture provide the perfect setup for dining and socializing on-premises. People were friendly, and the large fire pit situated between the pools kept me and my fellow guests cozy late into the evening.

Tectonic activity is common in this part of Northern California as the earth lets off a little steam. A small jolt in the middle of the night woke me up, a reminder that the therapeutic waters I was enjoying wouldn’t be accessible without contractions between rock and steam, linked to past volcanic activity and a fault zone.

Most say that Calistoga wouldn’t be what it is today without Brannan commercializing the area’s most prized natural resource—mineral-rich water originating 4,000 feet below the earth’s surface near one of the world’s largest geothermal fields. Indian Springs Resort, which Brannan founded in 1862, has four geysers on its 17 acres. There’s a large one that releases steam behind the Olympic-size pool, and watching it mesmerized me while I floated the next morning away.

I fueled up on poke at the poolside grill and bar, The Chaise Lounge, and maintained my elevated internal temperature by sitting next to the large fire. With a full belly and an Aperol spritz, I was back in the pool until late in the day.

The resort’s spa utilizes water from the geysers and volcanic ash mined on-site in many of its treatments. I was intrigued by the Himalayan Salt Therapy Room, which is purported to help with respiratory conditions, and the Binaural Beats Therapy that delivers synchronized sound therapy and is said to aid sleep and harmony. Anyone booked for a treatment can experience the Buddha Pond, a refuge with palm trees and greenery surrounding the geyser-fed pond.

Other hotels that tap into local geysers include Dr. Wilkinson’s Backyard Resort and Mineral Springs, Calistoga Motor Lodge and Spa and Roman Spa Hot Springs Resort. Each property has its own retro vibe and exemplifies the laid-back Calistoga mineral pool experience.

Dine & Drink Downtown

Several decades of architecture are on view within six blocks of downtown along and around Lincoln Avenue. From the post-Gold Rush era Mission-style buildings to ornate Victorian structures and stately Neo-Classical commercial buildings, walking around offered me a lesson in California history.

Housed in many of these historic buildings are restaurants, wine tasting rooms and breweries. Dining and drinking options include Evangeline, Bricco Osteria and Calistoga Brewery. Sam’s Social Club, part of Indian Springs Resort, has a lively outdoor scene and an eclectic menu. Head to the Four Seasons Resort and Residences Napa Valley for amazing views of the surrounding vineyards. Top Chef alum and rising star Rogelio Garcia helms the property’s Michelin-star restaurant, Auro. If you can’t snag a reservation there, you’ll still be well fed at the property’s all-day restaurant, Truss. Pop into Calistoga Roastery or Sam’s General Store for morning coffee and a pastry.

I couldn’t leave without tasting some legendary Napa Valley wine and there are several in-town tasting rooms, each with its own flair. Maria Concetto Winery is known for RobinoVino, the robotic sommelier that assists with your tasting experiences. But the wine doesn’t need gimmicks. Owner Maria Reznikova is sourcing impeccable grapes and employs veteran winemakers like Patrick Saboe to craft delicious pinots and sparklings.

For an old-world experience, Romeo Vineyards’ tasting room is located at one of Calistoga’s oldest buildings—an 1880s-era carriage house. Tastings take place outdoors surrounded by greenery and roses. Other noteworthy tasting rooms include Picayune Vineyards, Calistoga Depot and Tank Garage Winery. Whether sipping or splashing, you’re sure to leave Calistoga feeling renewed.

Wine Country Winter 

The Christmas season is a special time in Calistoga. The downtown district gets into the spirit with its annual Lighted Tractor Parade the first weekend of December, plus a Christmas Faire and post-parade celebration in Pioneer Park. If you can’t make it out for the parade, celebrate the season with wine. Visit Calistoga hosts Winter in the Wineries Passport every year from early December through the first week of February. For $75, it covers free tastings at over two dozen Calistoga-area wineries and offers discounts at resorts and retailers.

take the plunge – visitcalistoga.com

Perfect Shot: Ice Caps

On a chilly day, photographer friends Robb Most and Bob Siegel were hiking on the Brook Trail in Pescadero Creek Park. Robb was captivated by a plucky little patch of mushrooms poking up from the trailside weeds and glittering with ice crystals. Using a tripod, he used his camera’s “focus shift” to achieve depth of field by taking many shots, each with a different focus, and then combined the images using software.

Calling all Shutterbugs: If you’ve captured a unique perspective of the Peninsula, we’d love to see your Perfect Shot. Email us at hello@punchmonthly.com to be considered for publication.

Pursuit of Beauty

Words by Andrea Gemmet

If you ask Alisa Eagleston-Cieslewicz to name her favorite painting at The Foster Museum in Palo Alto, there’s no hesitation. It’s Fall Colour, part of British artist Tony Foster’s series of watercolor works called Exploring Beauty. “I love how it captures the beautiful colors of fall. I think that autumn trees are exceptionally beautiful,” she says. When the California native was earning a master’s degree in art history at New York University, she was stunned by the sheer magnitude of the East Coast’s fall display. “One of my favorite things about living in New York was how Central Park became this amazing wash of different reds and oranges and yellows.”

The vibrant landscape, like many of Tony’s plein air watercolor paintings, includes a bit of bonus material at the bottom—in this case a color-coded row of detailed paintings of different leaves. “I think Tony captures that variety of color and the intensity of it so well,” says Alisa, who admits to being “one of those people” who love autumn. “I also really love the individual leaves at the bottom of the work, because I think the larger landscape at the top … captures the overall feel of the season and of the color. But those individual leaves show you the building blocks for that overall impression.”

Alisa, the new executive director of The Foster, has been drawn to art since she was a precocious preschooler fascinated by the expressive works of the Rodin Sculpture Garden at Stanford University. Alisa traces her career path back to Stanford’s Cantor Art Center, which she often explored with her alumni parents. Later, as a Stanford undergraduate, Alisa joined the museum crew and helped maintain that same collection of Rodin statues.

Fast-forward to internships at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York and the De Young Museum in San Francisco, a contract job with the SF Fine Arts Museums, an MBA from UC Berkeley. Most recently, Alisa served as the acting director of the SFO Museum, where she held various roles for 16 years, before landing at The Foster in October.

The peaceful vibe of The Foster Museum couldn’t be more different from San Francisco International, which has the nation’s only accredited museum in an airport. There, the luggage-toting visitors are more likely to be rushing past the museum exhibits than to pause in quiet reflection while waiting for their planes. From weather delays to construction work, “something is always happening at the airport,” Alisa laughs. The Foster, a large, vine-covered building incongruously located off of busy San Antonio Road, is an oasis of contemplative calm by comparison.

Solely dedicated to the work of Tony Foster, the eponymous museum houses a beautifully displayed collection of his watercolor landscapes that celebrate some of earth’s most wild, beautiful—and usually hard-to-reach—locations. Tony documents his artistic journeys, some taking years to complete, in a series of paintings large and small, accompanied by handwritten journal entries, sketches made in the field and small “souvenirs” (like dried leaves, shells, rocks) from the site.

The Foster Museum boasts a broad overview of Tony’s artistic output, called “Journeys,” from his first one in 1982, following Robert Louis Stevenson’s 1879 path through France, called Travels without a Donkey in the Cévennes. The collection includes Rainforest Diaries from Costa Rica and views of volcanoes with Ice and Fire in the 1990s to more recent journeys: Secret Sites in Idaho, Sacred Places in the American Southwest and the globe-spanning Exploring Beauty.

“I think one of the really wonderful things is that The Foster Museum has free admission. This is for everyone,” says Alisa. “It’s a resource for anybody who wants to come experience it, enjoy it, learn from it.” She walks through a gallery of works from the Exploring Beauty series and exclaims, “Oh, I have to show you the fish!” She explains that Tony solicited recommendations for the most beautiful places from notable scientists, explorers, writers and environmentalists. Sir David Attenborough’s chosen location sent Tony to a reef in the Cayman Islands.

An underwater photo shows the artist at work, suited up in scuba gear and sketching with pencils on a sheet of plastic instead of his usual sketchpad. While he normally makes his watercolors in situ, Tony relied on those waterproof sketches to recreate the multicolored wonderland of fish and corals he witnessed in a large-scale painting done on dry land. “That’s so challenging, because watercolors are obviously not going to work underwater,” Alisa notes.

At The Foster, Tony’s lovely pictures serve as an invitation for viewers to connect with nature and think about the need to protect these wonderful wild places. Opposite his luminous reef painting is a table set with coloring sheets on clipboards, a tray of seashells, colored pencils, a magnifying glass and laminated photos of sea creatures, an opportunity for young viewers to create underwater scenes of their own. Community outreach is a priority at The Foster, Alisa says, serving both its mission of environmental stewardship and acknowledging its out-of-the-way location.

Alisa has long been interested in conservation of a different kind. She started out as a conservator, with a vital behind-the-scenes role caring for objects in museum collections, doing everything from polishing antique silver to repainting damaged porcelain. Over the years, she’s worked on Greek and Roman antiquities and restored a damaged 1950s scale model of a United Airlines DC-8, fabricating replacements for a slew of missing hands, feet and accessories for the plane’s diminutive passengers and crew. She says conservators might spend an entire day up close and personal with a single object. “It allowed me to interact with artworks in a way I really love,” Alisa shares.

For someone with a conservation background, having ready access to the artist for questions about how to preserve their work is a boon. Not only is Tony transparent about his materials and methods—his palm-sized paint box, hiking boots and collection of paintbrushes are on display in The Foster—there’s no need to speculate when he’s just a phone call away. Alisa notes that a few of his paintings include marginalia, like an image of Chaco Canyon in New Mexico from Sacred Places. “These works are just so beautiful,” Alisa says, and then points out a series of small, quick brushstrokes outside the picture’s margins where Tony tested various colors in search of the right one.

It’s clear Alisa relishes being part of her hometown community, where she’s also the chair of Palo Alto’s Historic Resources Board. “It’s a really wonderful time to be coming to this museum because the museum is so new,” she says of The Foster, which opened in 2016. After a pandemic closure, it’s definitely starting to hit its stride, she adds. “Being from Palo Alto, it’s a very special thing to be able to be a part of an institution like this, that can really reach out to the community, and can serve as a place of education and as a gathering place.”

She notes the positive messages transmitted by Tony’s work: slowing down, taking a closer look at beautiful places around the world and cultivating the desire to preserve them. “I think those are really powerful concepts,” Alisa reflects, “and I’m really looking forward to helping people engage with them.”

The Foster Museum in Palo Alto hosts children’s story times, public lectures and events like nature journaling and art making. Go to thefoster.org for more information or a free reservation.

Diary of a Dog: Fallon

If you think that Jimmy Fallon is the friendliest late-night host, then I’m just like my namesake. Actually, I’m #jimmyfallon (it’s a long story), but I answer to Fallon and I firmly believe that every stranger is just a friend I haven’t met yet. I was the runt of a litter of ShiPorkis (Shi Tzu, poodle and Yorkshire terrier mix) when I was brought to the Stanford Faculty Club and adopted by Diane just before Christmas 2015. She says that my eyelashes go on for days and make women jealous. She used to fret about my “lack of boundaries” when meeting new people, but if everyone adores me, what is there to worry about? On Christmas Eve last year, I had an accident that left my hind legs paralyzed, but thanks to a great surgeon at UC Davis and intensive rehab at Scout’s House, I’m back on all four feet. I still wake up every day happy and ready to befriend anyone who will give me a scratch behind the ears in exchange for a little kiss. Diane wants me to take it easy, so she got a stroller for our longer daily walks around San Mateo. When I’m not hopping in and out, I sit like a captain on the prow of his ship, offering a friendly greeting to everyone we meet.

Calling All Dogs: If you've got quirky habits or a funny tale (or tail) to share, email your story to hello@punchmonthly.com for a chance to share a page from your Diary of a Dog in PUNCH.

Essay: Teddy’s Big Hit

Words by Sloane Citron

The Citron family group text was rife with stories of the T-Ball heroics of one of our youngest members, Theodore Solomon Leonard, or Teddy. Home runs of unimaginable distances, T-Ball coaches telling their players to “back up, back up” and parents beaming with pride.

Since he lives a bit of distance from me, getting to one of his games was not as easy as with my other grandkids. It had to be planned. My daughter told me that Teddy’s last game was scheduled for a Sunday in mid-November, and I put it, underlined twice, into my appointment book.

In the meantime, I was undergoing a procedure on my kidneys and was waiting patiently for the doctor to tell me when he was going to operate. Kidney stones run in our family, with one daughter and one son both needing surgery to deal with them.

Over the past few years, I’ve noticed intermittent kidney pain, a slight dull ache in my lower sides and back. But I didn’t bother with it. At my physical this year, they found some “invisible” blood in my urine. After some other testing, a CAT scan showed two large stones, a 12-centimeter one in my left kidney and a 11-centimeter one in the right kidney.

My doctor told me that if it were him, he would get them removed to avoid the problems of stones that size trying to leave my body. I went with that.

After I awoke from my operation, my doctor told me that, unfortunately, my left ureter was twisted and that while they were able to successfully remove the other stone, they had to put in a stent to straighten the tube to allow the instruments to go up into my kidney. The next surgery would be several weeks out. Frankly, the horribleness of those weeks with two stents (one was in there for the other kidney, which normally would have come out after a few days) was something I would not opt to go through again.

Finally, the clinic called and said my surgery date was on a Thursday, just two days before Teddy’s last game. I decided to just go with the flow, and I kept my airline reservation for Friday morning. I got up the next morning after the surgery and Ubered to the airport, determined to watch Teddy play ball. I made it just fine.

Finally, it was time for the last game and Teddy was ready to swing. The location was magnificent, with permanent T-Ball and coach-pitch fields, and real fences in the outfield, not that temporary stuff. Teddy’s team took the field first and then batted in the bottom of the inning. Up seventh (everyone bats) Teddy geared up and smashed a line drive that settled at the bottom of the left field fence. No home run but a great swing that cleared the bases.

The next inning, Teddy approached the plate with the goal of knocking it out of the park. Opposing coaches yelled, “Get back! Get back! He can hit it!” This alone filled me with pride. Teddy again punished the ball, but it landed at the bottom of the right field fence without going over. A minute later, the game was over. “What?” I said. “Only two innings?”

Yes, that was it, two innings and done. Teddy looked a bit dejected, but he has a good attitude, and no one said a word except “Great game!” and “Great hitting!” Of course, we didn’t care if he hit a home run or not. But after everyone had left, Teddy’s dad asked his boy if he wanted to practice hitting some balls. So, Teddy got up and crushed a few balls, again with none going over the fence.

Finally, on the last ball, Teddy smashed it high and far. All eyes were on that ball. It flew into the blue sky, and we were all urging it on. Would it make it? We held our breath, waiting. Finally, the ball started descending and landed about four feet short of the fence but then (!) bounced over. Technically, it was a ground rule double and it wasn’t even hit in an actual game. But it made no difference.

“Home run! Home run!” Teddy screamed as he went around the bases. We cheered. “I hit it out for you, Saba!” he called to me. Hand in hand, we crowded back to the car, happy faces filled with pride, and headed straight to the local ice cream shop to celebrate.

Essay: Amarillo by Evening

Words by Sloane Citron

Each year, I go to my hometown of Amarillo, Texas, so that I can see regular life in these United States. On my recent trip, gas was $2.79 per gallon, and if you signed up for the gas card you could get it down to $2.59. There’s a start for you.

I flew into Denver to spend the night at my brother Dan’s (he is a doctor there). Next morning, we got up early and started our road trip south, driving through Colorado Springs with the Rockies as the backdrop, then into New Mexico with its Southwest pines and rough terrain, before the final stretch into Big A. It’s an easy seven hours with a couple of stops to use the bathroom and get some bad food. We bring CDs but mostly keep the sound off so we can talk—that’s the true beauty of being on the road together.

We have a dear, lifelong family friend, Trudy Klingensmith, who has a simple, ramshackle cabin that her parents built 70 years ago in the Palo Duro Club, just south of Amarillo. The views change throughout the day but are always captivating. The club is in an offshoot of the Palo Duro Canyon, the second largest canyon in the United States, spectacular to traverse and fascinating to read about. You probably haven’t heard of it, but it’s worth the trip.

We sit on Trudy’s large porch overlooking a gently flowing creek, high above golden fields with hills beyond. We watch for green herons, turkey vultures and assorted ducks. We walk along dusty roads hunting for arrowheads and fire-cracked rocks from the Comanches and Cheyenne who roamed this canyon for thousands of years. Life takes on its own flavor here, wonderfully free from the world’s distractions.

I take a break from the cabin and spend a day with one of my oldest, dearest friends, Mike, who stayed in Amarillo to run the printing company his parents established. Mike has the beginnings of early dementia, and I wanted to reassure him that I was there for him. We always play golf, both having grown up with the sport. In Amarillo, it’s easy to belong to a country club and Mike still does.

For many years, we had been playing the “new course” at Tascosa Country Club since it’s easier to get a starting time there than at the old course. But what I really wanted was to play the original course, the one that I had played hundreds of times since I was about five years old. This time we got lucky: the night before it had rained heavily, and it was overcast when we showed up the next morning. I pleaded my case to the starter (my father was one of the original founders of the club since Amarillo Country Club did not allow Catholics, Jews or Blacks) and he got us right on.

Mike might be forgetting some names and thoughts, but he is all there on the fairways. As I like to do, we played scramble golf where we work as a team rather than against each other. The course, while still mostly as I had recalled it, had been changed.

They cut down about half the trees and made the course easier. And the fairways and greens were in much better shape than I remembered. The most significant thing was that there were now homes lining every hole, displacing the challenging rough that was once was filled with yucca plants, rocks and foot-high tumbleweeds. I felt as if I was playing down a street of some new suburban home development.

We played well, Mike outdriving me down the middle of the fairways on most holes and I putting it on the green in regulation. My putter (borrowed, of course) was on fire and I made about six putts over 15 feet. Together, we played a solid round.

After we played, we headed to the club’s fine restaurant and sat down for conversation and food. We have lots to say to each other, though much goes unsaid because neither of us are big talkers. But being side by side, like we have been since about 1968, was all that mattered. I love the guy.

Mike kept telling me how important it was that we spend the day together since he’s not been getting out with friends as often. But he’s still at it: he’s helping run the ranch he and his wife own; still doing his part at the shop; and still buying old cars (barn finds) that he encounters. He’s moving straight forward, though with changes looming.

The next day, Dan, Trudy and I enjoyed some spectacular views from the porch, with wonderful conversations about all our old Amarillo friends. (“Now didn’t his son go to UT? I believe he’s a vet in Dallas now.”) The next day, reluctantly, Dan and I packed it up and drove to Denver, back into the reality of our worlds.

Amarillo is important to me. It’s a unique, somewhat beautiful small city of 200,000 where everyone seems to be connected. I like tracing my childhood life while I am there, by way of my old schools, homes and people. There is a continuity in my old hometown. But, of course, nothing stays the same.

The golf course is changing. Mike’s changing. I’m changing. Together.

Essay: Brightly Burning

Words by Sloane Citron

Growing up in Amarillo, Texas, my family’s Hanukkah celebrations were subdued and uneventful. We would light the candles without much fanfare, and I was given one gift from my grandmother and one from my parents. Usually, my grandmother gave me something of substance, like a bicycle or a musical instrument. She was always good for something up to $75, which would be a large number in today’s money. She was a generous woman, not just with her family but with everyone, and I learned from her.

When I had my own family of four children, I felt compelled to give them the full treatment. There are several prayers and songs that accompany the lighting of the eight candles (one candle the first night leading to eight on the last night), so doing the liturgy and songs every night is the best way for children to learn them.

Besides the poetic experience of lighting the candles, I felt compelled to provide plenty of materialistic things for my children. In what would seem an effort to make up for the muted holidays of my youth, I decided to shower my kids with delight. So, I took on the responsibility of finding eight presents for each child, a total of 32 gifts.

On the face of it, this seems like a ridiculous idea. But I was committed and so I set about doing the best job that I possibly could—these were my kids after all.

The first step was to get each of them things I knew that they wanted, from a telescope to a party dress to flying lessons. Each child was unique with very different interests and desires. Finding four such presents made a good start.

But that hardly covered the goal of getting them each eight gifts. I would wander the aisles of Target and the stores at Stanford Shopping Center looking for presents I thought they might like. I would usually find a few choice things this way, narrowing down the number left to find.

Some of the gifts were truly small gestures, though not quite as bad as giving them an orange, like in days past. I would go to local bookstores and buy up a dozen books, maybe head over to Big 5 for some baseballs or hats or sunglasses. Eventually, the job got done.

Each night of Hanukkah we would summon all the kids (and often their friends) into our kitchen. We would gather around the large island where we had placed all of our Hanukkiahs (eight-branched menorahs), a collection that continually grew as we found new ones that we liked. We would place tin foil below each of them to keep the wax from spilling all over the granite surface. Then we would turn off all the lights and, in the darkness, we would find the magic of the holiday.

As the prayers and songs were recited, we slowly lit the candle the first night, adding one more each night. By the fourth day, the Hanukkiahs shone brightly, and the room was filled with the flickering light of the candles. It was wondrous to watch my children open their gifts each night, the quiet light illuminating their efforts to unwrap them.

A book didn’t get the same response as a new baseball glove, but the kids were always grateful and happy. After the gifts were opened and the wrapping paper lay strewn across our kitchen floor, we would have a delicious family dinner with latkes, applesauce and sour cream. After the meal, the kids would play dreidel with golden foil-covered chocolate coins.

Today, life is different. My children now have children of their own, blossoming into a group of 14, with more little ones expected to join our tribe in 2025. And, of course, these grown-up kids have their own homes and are eager to celebrate Hanukkah there, diligently teaching their children the prayers and songs we taught them.

There is no way to get them all eight gifts each, since that would be 112 presents. I think I’d need to hire an assistant for that chore. Instead, I do my best to find one gift for each of them.

We all get together in our family home for at least one of the nights, and it is a true joy to see the new additions singing the prayers and songs with a gusto that I certainly didn’t have at that age. And, with the lights out and the room dark, there’s happiness in my heart as I watch them, just as I had watched their parents, open their gifts against the dim light of the briskly burning candles.

Happy Christmas and Hanukkah to you and your family.

Essay: Three Days of Adventure

Words by Sloane Citron

I’ve learned to grab any chance at family, memories and happiness. So when my son Josh and his wife Adara asked if I could possibly pick up my grandson, Evan, from golf camp and entertain him for a few days, I jumped at the opportunity.

At five years old, Evan is the eldest of my seven grandchildren and we’re good pals. Like all the other kids, he calls me Saba, Hebrew for grandfather.
Evan had golf camp every day for a week, starting at 8:30 in the morning and ending at 12:30. My job for three consecutive days was to pick him up, feed him lunch, entertain him and get him home safely by 5:30. My little guy loves golf and for a five-year-old, he’s pretty good. Josh and I take him to play—either at the driving range or on a course—and he hangs in there.

On our first day, I picked him up at 12:30 sharp. With no real plan in mind, we headed over the hill straight for Half Moon Bay’s Main Street. We landed at Johnny’s, a friendly local restaurant, where we got egg salad sandwiches and fries. Always fries.

We wandered along the street and went into some interesting shops. In one of them, Evan found small ceramic turtles that he pined for, but I wrangled him out of the shop while promising him that I’d consider coming back for them.

Then we headed to the Pillar Point Harbor, where we wandered down the pier. Though the fishing boats were done for the day, we still meandered about, and I explained to Evan about the anchors, nets, cages and other stuff generally found on these boats. We also caught sight of several seals, and, of course, Evan wanted to feed them.

We ran into a grizzly old fisherman with unkempt hair carrying a 12-pack of beer and I stopped him. The three of us had a good conversation about the world of commercial fishing. I tried to insinuate that we would like to see his boat, but no invitation was forthcoming. I kicked myself afterward for not asking him directly, because I think he would have said yes.

Afterward, we returned to downtown Half Moon Bay to buy the small ceramic turtles that Evan had coveted (also, he insisted, for his sister Mara). It’s hard for me to say no to his sweet requests. After that, I returned him home and got back to my house, a bit worn out from our full afternoon.

The next day, we decided to have lunch at the golf course restaurant, a somewhat run-down place that has seen better times. Evan had his favorite rice with teriyaki sauce. Afterward, we headed south for 30 minutes to Hidden Villa to see what we could see. We wandered through the ramshackle place, petting goats and sheep and trying to catch lizards. We had great fun and Evan sat down on one of the benches to share some of his favorite riddles.

When he tells them with his lisp (as I, “Thloane Thitron,” once had), he’s just so darn cute. The best one was, “What is wobbly and in the sky?” I asked Evan for the answer. He quietly said, “A jellycopter” and we both laughed. He kept telling jokes until he had run out and started making up ones that made no sense. Finally, it was time to head for home, another wonderful adventure down.

Friday was our last day. Despite my efforts to convince him otherwise, he wanted to have lunch again at the golf course restaurant. We ordered a repeat of the day before, but the waitress came out and told us they were out of rice. It’s that kind of place. In exchange, the cook said that he would serve us scrambled eggs, hashbrowns and toast, which I had tried to order the day before but was refused since it was after noon. Evan is a good eater and never needs cajoling into finishing a meal. But he is not quick, so we were there a good hour while my little grandson finished off his entire plate.

From there we headed up north, following a route that only Waze could create, to the Fitzgerald Marine Preserve. Though I knew it was the wrong time to visit because the tide would be high, we still had a great time. We played in the small streams, jumped rocks, looked at far-off seals and studied shells. Evan is cautious but did great at navigating the rocks in the streams of water. “Saba, slow and steady wins the race,” he told me more than once.

We saw hiking trails, so we headed up into the forested area next to the tidepools. It was inspiring being within the canopy of the large, beautiful trees. With no one else there, it was our magic forest, and Evan kept exclaiming, “Saba, this is the most beautiful place I’ve ever been.” And he might have been correct.

My three afternoons with Evan were a singular treat, adventures that we’ll remember. And they solidly met my criteria of family, memories and happiness. When I dropped Evan off after the last of our three days of hanging out, neither of us wanted it to end. Evan kept saying, “Saba, don’t leave.” But with a heart filled with joy, I climbed into my car, knowing our next playdate was just around the corner.

Essay: Rough, Ruff

Words by Sloane Citron

One of my favorite memories was of my family dog. I’ve written before about Tamby (the Lord of Timberline was his self-important AKC name), a mostly black, medium-sized German Shepherd with a fast gait and a never-ending desire to run and pursue. A loving, friendly dog, he was known for chasing cars down the street for several blocks, nipping at the tires until, finally, worn out, he would limp back home and lie down next to us, panting loudly, his long tongue hanging from his mouth.

During the summers while I was growing up in Amarillo, I made the four-hour trip to Chandler, Oklahoma, where I was a regular at Chandler Baseball Camp. Under the dusty, blazing-hot sky, we played ball for eight hours a day. We focused on baseball and baseball only—hitting drills, bunting practices, running the bases. To a boy like me, crazy about baseball, it was heaven on earth. Though I didn’t realize it at the time, one of the best parts of camp was its complete divorce from the rest of my life.

In the summer after sixth grade, my father drove me to camp as usual, and I entrusted Tamby to him, since there was no one else at home. A month later, after another wonderful summer playing ball, while on the last leg of our return trip home, my Dad said that he had something to tell me. The story he shared was that Tamby had bitten a neighbor child—on our front lawn where he had no business being—when the boy brought his dog over and the two dogs got into a fight.

The boy’s family was going to sue us and to settle the situation, Tamby had been sent to live with a “wonderful family on a big ranch not far from Amarillo,” my Dad told me. I had tears in my eyes but didn’t say a word. I had become accustomed to loss. My brother and sister had gone away to prep school and college (I was the youngest by five years) and my mother had moved away to further her career as a concert violinist. The loss of Tamby was just one more slice of sadness in my young life.

I never asked any questions of my father and never discussed the incident or Tamby’s well-being with anyone. I think I was afraid of learning something worse than the story I’d been told.

Recently, I was in Chicago visiting with my sister Shelley and my brother Dan. We meet regularly just to be together, catch up and share some new adventures. My sister lives in the heart of the city in a beautiful condominium overlooking Lake Michigan.

Chicago is my favorite big city. Despite all the negative press, it’s simply a wonderful place. The streets are immaculate; there are beautifully landscaped planters on every block; the people are friendly and helpful. Not to mention that there are countless places to discover. Though I go there at least once a year, there’s always more to see and do.

Of course, Shelley, Dan and I talk endlessly about current events, our families and our long history together. We remember the people we grew up with, our neighbors, and the family and friends we have lost. Often, we’ll crack open an old photo album and look at ourselves as children. That always gets a smile touched with feelings of loss. I love hearing their memories of our childhood, since much of it happened before I was really on the scene.

Toward the end of our last visit, we talked about our family cat, Tiger. When I was just an infant, Dan found a cat in the alley that ran behind our home, a young tabby with a sweet meow and a friendly, affectionate nature. My brother brought him home and talked our parents into keeping him. My brother, sister and I discussed the small, quiet cat, and the recollections we each had of him.

I thought about asking Shelley and Dan about Tamby, about the story that our father had told me, that after the biting incident he was taken to a large cattle ranch to join a wonderful family. But then, I thought better. I didn’t want to disturb the truth that I had held onto my entire life, of our dog out there on that ranch, happy and content. I wanted to forever imagine him running along the Texas plains, racing after a ranch truck, nipping at its tires and never giving up the chase.

Essay: Yeah, Yeah, Yeah

Awhile back, my daughter Tali suggested that she and I should do something together, just the two of us. We couldn’t remember the last time we had done such a thing, giving greater resonance to the idea.

Tali is the third of my four children and has always lived at home in Menlo Park or nearby (her family now lives in San Carlos, which they have come to love) and our lives are very much intertwined. She married her high school sweetheart, Sam (also from Menlo Park), works as an excellent real estate agent and is the caring mother of three small children (5, 4 and 2) who are always on the go. She’s a busy woman, as you can imagine. My daughter has a spunky nature, always laughing, joking and happy. She’s youthful-looking, and many do a double-take when they learn her age.

When Tali was a small girl, I wrote an essay about how she reminded me of my long-gone grandmother, Beulah. That glimmer in her eye and her sweet smile still make me recall my grandmother, with whom I had a loving, special relationship. When I’m with Tali, I often think of the sweet, old woman who taught me to play cribbage.

Tali found a concert for us at the spectacular Mountain Winery in Saratoga, and so we secured tickets and put it on the calendar, which happened to be on the Saturday before Father’s Day. While I’m a bit underwhelmed by holidays celebrating me, I did like the idea that we would enjoy the evening together before the day.

I’m an anxious guy when it comes to getting to events—or anything—on time, so I was a bit concerned when Tali told me that her family would be at a birthday party until late afternoon and that she could be home and ready to leave at 6:30 for the 7:30 show. I arrived early and as soon as she pulled up, she jumped in my car, and we headed off to Saratoga.

If you haven’t attended a show at the Mountain Winery, you’re missing out. I’ve gone to dozens of shows there and it’s my favorite venue for seeing a live act. It’s up on a luscious green mountain surrounded by vineyards, and the setting is simply dazzling. You can see for miles. It’s perfectly laid out, intimate and unique, with the original winery building from 1852 serving as the backdrop for the stage.

Tali and I made quick work of the trip there and, even though we were later than most arrivals, were fortunately given a close-in parking space. Outside of the seating area, they offer a variety of delicious dinner options and after promptly receiving our food, we sat down in the patio to enjoy our meals.
We were just finishing our last bites (in between chatting with different people we knew) when we heard “She Loves You,” the iconic Beatles’ song.

This was not a recording but what we had come to see: The Fab Four, perhaps the preeminent Beatles cover band. We finished up and found our seats, which were in a great spot with a clear view of the stage.

The first half of the show featured the band’s early songs, and we fought the urge to get up and dance. We didn’t want to block the people behind us, so we just sang the songs together and rocked in our seats. To her credit, Tali knew them all. She did, as she reminded me, grow up in my home, where ‘60s music was always playing as we swam, barbecued and played sports in our backyard.

The night was brisk, but soon the band encouraged everyone to stand, and we moved to the familiar music, the quality and poetry of which has not diminished after 60 years. That warmed us up and got our energy flowing. It was a happy, lively evening, the stars shining above us.

Since Tali’s normal wake-up time is 2AM, 4AM and then up for good around 5AM, we didn’t want to get stuck in the traffic going down the mountain, so when we felt like The Fab Four was closing in on its finale, we dashed out to beat the crowd. Thirty minutes later, I was depositing my sweet girl at her home, the lights still on, waiting for mom to come back.

It was a perfect night with a perfect daughter. We had a splendid time together, reminiscing, joking, laughing and singing our hearts out to the songs of the ages. “Dad,” Tali said after giving me a hug and a kiss when she was about to get out of my car, “We’ve got to make this an annual thing.” And so, we will. I teared up a bit on my solo drive home, nostalgic for my life when my children were small, but feeling blessed that they all still like to hang with their dad.

Essay: Pretty, Pretty Good Friends

Words by Sloane Citron

I’m a grandfather to seven young kids, so you might assume that I have learned what I will learn, know who I know and am done building friendships. But you’d be wrong.

While my brother, Dan, and my sons, Josh and Coby, are my truly devoted friends, and I have five other close friendships that stretch back 30-plus years, something fascinating has happened. I call it the Larry David syndrome—being comfortable enough in your own skin to talk openly and honestly without caring too much about what others think.

I have found that speaking genuinely and openly is liberating. I find myself speaking my mind when I’m out and about in daily life, whether at a car repair shop that did shoddy work or with the vendor at the Giants game who offered a smile. Whether a confrontational situation or a pleasant encounter, I work hard to interact in a direct and thoughtful way with anyone I encounter. But I find that I no longer fear frank confrontation, something I could never say about my younger self.

These days, my close friends and I are able to talk about all the crap in our lives with impunity. Instead of having to prove ourselves (as we used to), we are now competing to see who has the most nonsense and annoyances in their lives. It’s a race to the bottom.

I will say, especially in these polarizing times, that most of my friends and I share the same background and political opinions, though not all do. One of my newest friends, with whom I could talk for hours, is a rather pious Catholic and on the moderate side of the opposing party. We end up agreeing on most things and we never argue. I like hearing his views and learning from them. We are a metaphor for what government should be like.

I have one friend whom I’ve known for decades. In those many years spent at dinners and events, I don’t think we ever met without our wives being present. Since he leads a more outgoing life and is involved in so many things, I always felt that he wouldn’t want to have a meal just with me. His sweet wife once causally suggested, as we were leaving their home, that her husband and I should have lunch, so we did. And we had a great time. I discovered that though he is this amazing guy, he puts up with as much nonsense in life as the rest of us. Sharing our intimate details was cathartic for us both and now we regularly get together.

In another instance, an old client of mine, with whom I share many opinions and experiences, suggested we go have lunch on his large, beautiful boat in Redwood City’s incredible new Westpoint Harbor. Outside of an office setting, sitting on the shining wooden dock, we discovered the basis of true friendship. We talked from our souls with no encumbrances. Again, it’s the Larry David effect.

With some of my oldest friends, I have found the same. They know I trust them, and they trust me. Plus, none of us cares if we are called out on something. We all have been successful, the kids are grown, and the dog has passed, so we have the joyful freedom of seeing it as we see it.

Just recently, someone I knew moderately well at my prep school, Andover, reached out and we discovered that our lives are very much in sync. Though he is now a rather famous director, and our lives took somewhat different paths, right now, we are bonding in a great way. He is working on the same projects as I am, and our lives are dedicated to furthering those aims.

There is the cliché that “a friend is someone you can tell everything to and they still like you.” It’s great to sit with one of these friends and say whatever is on our minds. We find that the more we open up, the more in depth we go, the more we end up talking about intimate things that I thought I’d never share with anyone. By doing so, we connect in meaningful ways that is certainly good for our mental health.

Developing deep friendships at this point in life is liberating and invigorating. One thing that I have learned, whether on these pages as an essayist, in the public or talking with my friends, is the importance of being earnest and vulnerable—telling it like is, and not caring what people think.

It’s all thanks to my inner Larry David.

Essay: Our Sycamore

Words by Sloane Citron

When we started PUNCH some six years ago, the first task on my list was finding office space. We didn’t need much room, but it needed to feel bright and cheerful and be in Menlo Park, since that’s where I live. Hunting for office space—and with it, the overall thrill of a new launch—is invigorating.

I’ve had an office in Menlo Park since 1993, so I know the town well. I’m acquainted with its buildings, alleyways and office complexes. I decided that it made sense to roam the city, so I walked the downtown streets and when something looked interesting, I went inside and checked it out. By walking the halls and talking to tenants, I could get a good idea if I might be interested.

I’m picky about my office since that’s where I spend a good third of my time. While I prefer more unique spaces, most of what is available is in typical office buildings. But each space has its nuances: brightness, lighting, layout and overall vibe. The bottom line is that I wanted a space that lifted us up as we walked through its doors and made us feel inspired and creative as we spent our days there.

If something seemed interesting, I made the effort to find out who was in charge and then I rang them up to see if there was a space available, the rate and when it might become vacant. Some had “For Lease” on the side of the building, but many small spaces and offices don’t post anything.

If my memory is correct, I believe I saw the office on Craigslist, despite my hours of wandering around the town.

At the small building on El Camino Real, I met the landlord, and we walked up to the second floor to the office, which was occupied by a fledgling tech startup. Between their mess and the white walls, dirty carpet and the somewhat tired building, I had my doubts. But the layout was perfect, with a larger room in front with a giant skylight and a separate secondary space with large windows looking out over the street.

What really sold me on the office was the wonderful sycamore tree just outside the windows. It brought nature and beauty into the rooms and gave it a unique and positive feel.

Though there was no elevator (ugh, since we always have boxes of magazines to move), there was a perfect niche for storing our issues. The price was right, the location perfect and there was plenty of potential, so I made an offer.

Once the old tenants were gone, we set about making it ours. I asked my designer daughter, Arielle Citron Leonard, what to do and she told me the colors to paint the walls and trim, which carpets to get and what the furniture should look like. In a matter of weeks, it was perfect.

But one of the defining aspects of our office is the tree, what I now think of as our tree. The sycamore is a result of the efforts of a local organization that worked tirelessly to plant them throughout Menlo Park’s El Camino corridor 20+ years ago. We delight in following our tree’s journey though the course of the year. In autumn, the leaves slowly drift away until, suddenly, it is bare. Then in spring, it gradually gains its greenery back until it is once again full.

For the past eight months, there has been a small dead branch that broke off and intertwined with another limb, arresting its descent. It’s dangling by what seems like the tiniest of twigs, in defiance of gravity. Time and the laws of nature will eventually cause it to fall, but every morning we gather to see if the small limb has finally dropped. As I write this, it’s still there.

While I have many issues with the city for ignoring our tired, sad downtown, I’m grateful for the tree. Without question, Menlo Park has the most attractive stretch of El Camino on the Peninsula, all due to the efforts of the “tree people” having the vision to know how these towering gems would make a difference in our lives.

Trees speak to us in a way that man can’t. They give us a sense of comfort and permanence. A sense of protection and endurance. And our solitary tree, brushing up against our office window, swaying with wind, always reliable, comforts us. And we wonder just when that small branch will finally yield to natural forces, as all things must, and flutter to the ground.

Essay: The Cabbin

Words by Sloane Citron

One of the great joys I had growing up in Amarillo was our family’s cabin in the “canyon,” which I’ve previously written about here. We’d pack up the Chrysler station wagon with our stuff and our big, black German Shepherd Tamby and head out. As a child, I thought the trip was a long one. Only later in life did I understand that it was only 30 minutes away. Still, its remote uniqueness from our suburban home always made it feel like an adventure.

The cabin came to be because several Amarillo doctors decided to build weekend homes in a beautiful small canyon, known always as simply the Canyon. Nestled within its walls was a small creek that ran through the middle, filled with belching bullfrogs and big, slimy catfish. At night, the sky was bright with stars and fireflies darted through the air.

While the other doctors constructed typical, basic cabins and rustic homes, my father, influenced by the time he spent in Japan as a surgeon during the Korean War, decided to build a true Japanese home out there in the Panhandle dust and weeds. Probably sketched out on a scrap of paper, the design was simple and straightforward, though it was clear that the details were thoughtfully considered.

The home was small, I’d guess under 1,000 square feet, and comprised two parts: one for living and one for sleeping. The location, on the eighth hole of a rudimentary golf course, was one reason that my father, a forever golf-duffer, wanted to have a cabin out there. Rising behind our small cabin were rugged cliffs that, when breached, led to the forever flat plains that defined the region.

The cabin, though thoroughly Japanese in style, was simple. The living area was one room with a small kitchen on one end and an attached screened-in porch to keep the multitude of grasshoppers, snakes and mosquitoes outside. The living area had small chairs and tables and a sweet built-in couch that was perfect for wrestling with my brother Danny or hunkering down with a Mad magazine. We kids ate our meals on a high counter-bar when we could be cajoled into coming back from wherever we were playing, summoned by the striking of a huge gong in our front yard that reverberated throughout the entire canyon.

A very distinct orange bridge, about 15 feet across, connected the living area to the smaller sleeping section, divided into two halves, a kids’ room with two bunk beds, and my parents’ room. In between the bedrooms was a narrow hallway with a wall phone, where we had a party line, which meant that all the families in the canyon shared one line. If I was bored, I’d carefully lift off the handle from the receiver and listen in on conversations.

For us kids, the cabin was a place of freedom, exploration and discovery, often about ourselves. Teens were allowed to drive on the dusty, rocky roads, often ending up in ditches, from which we had to be extracted. We blew things up with M-80s and Cherry Bombs and captured lizards, turtles and frogs for weekend pets. Sometimes we used old bamboo fishing rods to pull up slimy catfish.

At some point, the unique cabin caught the attention of someone in the publishing world, and a well-known photographer, John Rogers, did a photo shoot of the cabin and our family. I was seven but remember it well. Some months later, LIVING magazine published an article about the cabin and featured some of those photos.

Recently, an archivist at the University of North Texas contacted me for more details about the cabin and our family to accompany the photos that are now in their possession. The best part was that she had access to the original images from the shoot, many that we had not seen before. There was Shelley with her horse Tuscan and the three of us lying on the floor playing board games. There was a great picture of the large gong. Through the images, I could touch the time at the cabin, full of innocence and adventure.

Our father, much to the great displeasure of me and my brother, sold our cabin a couple of years before his death. I guess he thought we wouldn’t have come back often enough to make it worthwhile. But we would have, and I wish I could take my kids and grandkids back to that special place. We’d hit the gong, look for arrowheads, chase lizards and blow stuff up. And when it got dark, we’d watch the stars and try to capture the fireflies that danced through the night.

Essay: Sunday Mornings

Words by Sloane Citron

Most Sunday mornings, my daughter Tali brings her kids, Liav, Levi and Noah, over to our home for a playdate. Since they get up at 6AM and head over soon after, I’m still sleeping when they arrive. Sometimes they let me sleep a bit, it being Sunday and all, but sometimes they come flooding into our bedroom like an unexpected hurricane. From deep sleep to kids pounding on you is an otherworldly experience.

Downstairs, while I’m getting ready for the day, there is a whirlwind of activity in the kitchen, with everything from pancakes (with whipped cream and sprinkles, of course) to scrambled eggs to store-bought doughnuts or other pastries being made ready for breakfast. The smell is always enticing.

Tali is my child with boundless energy and a vibrant personality. While a young girl she was famous for singing “opera” (as we called it) while sitting underneath our large dining table on Friday nights during our weekly Shabbat dinners, hitting high notes that made everyone laugh. Her children have even more energy than their mother.

While breakfast is prepared, the kids are usually engaged in their favorite activity, jumping from one couch to another, each time pulling the furniture a bit farther apart until you’d swear there’d be no way for them to make it. Though they always seem to land safely, I anticipate the day that I’m rushing one of them to the emergency room for some stitches.

We have cabinets full of toys, dress-up clothes and books, and most get used during their visits. It’s hard to get any of them to read a book with me, though Noah, who’s about 20 months old, will sometimes sit and let me look at a picture book with him, as balls and toys are being hurled across the room. I love the bedlam, as it reminds me of the frenzy and chaos of raising my own four children, who all were born within seven years of each other.

We are able to get them seated, for a moment or so, at the breakfast room table to eat. Inevitably, there is someone crawling across the table to get someone else’s whipped cream, sprinkles or milk. You know they’re done eating by the smears of maple syrup on the table, with paper napkins stuck to the wood.

These are outside children and so after breakfast and a roomful of displaced furniture, toys, balls and dolls, we plan our escape. Depending on our mood, we go to Burgess Park or to Sharon Park, both in Menlo Park.

Burgess Park has many activities, with baseball fields, a skate park, a busy playground, tennis courts and a small pond with a plethora of ducks and usually a turtle or two. The kids enjoy watching the quacking birds, especially the ducklings that chase after their mothers.

More often, we go to Sharon Park, where the pond is much larger, with a paved path encircling it. There are rarely ducks there, but we can usually spot a huge carp (probably a goldfish someone let loose 15 years ago), an occasional turtle and schools of tiny fish. There is also a good playground that is usually empty. The kids bring their scooters or bikes and love to zip around the pond at speeds that startle and amaze. I have to yell at them to slow down so that they avoid hitting the slowly walking seniors in their way. So far, so good, but be warned.

The wide-open spaces of the park inspire me—the lush greenery, the big expanse of water and, most of all, the vast open skies. Media extols the virtue of being outside in nature and when I am there, I understand. I breathe better in this space, feel that my troubles are less and that the future is more positive. There are some areas that are a bit wilder, and I especially enjoy going into them and feeling the bliss of nature.

Mostly, of course, I relish the opportunity to be with my daughter (and sometimes my son-in-law Sam) and their children, and the spirit of freedom and togetherness that permeates the scene. In the beautiful outdoors, the kids are happy and in their element, everyone’s troubles temporarily forgotten, there is more room to feel the innate connection between us. They scream to me, “Watch, Saba!” And I yell back, “Go, go, go!” The best part, though, is when one of them reaches up and takes my hand. Feeling that small hand within my own, the connection between us satisfying and unsaid, there is simply nothing better, and my Sunday is complete.

Essay: The Cowboy on the Can

Words by Sloane Citron

When I was three years old, my parents moved me from the small room next to their downstairs bedroom to our upstairs. There I shared a rather large room with my brother who was five years older. Danny, being a sweet, kind boy (and a sweet, kind man today) welcomed me into his room without a moment’s hesitation.

In our large Southern-style home in Amarillo, Texas, the upstairs was the province of us children, with two large bedrooms with walk-in closets, a spacious play area and a bathroom for us all to share. Our older sister Shelley had her own room, and Danny and I had the other.

The three of us got along as well then as we do now: in sincere harmony. I, of course, did drive my brother crazy at times, like when he was napping on the playroom couch, and I shot a small cap gun into his ear and scared him half to death. I remember with some clarity Danny chasing me through our home before tackling me and calling me some inhospitable names.

Remarkably, he never threw a punch, which he rightly deserved to do.
Sharing the bathroom was never an issue, partly because Danny and I spent as little time in there as possible. We had to be yelled at by our father to take a shower and we did not spend much time brushing our teeth or hair. Shelley had the bathroom mostly to herself and the drawers were filled with girl stuff. I suppose that made her glad that I wasn’t a girl though I’m sure she had hoped differently when I was born.

Our room had two beds, with carefully matching bedspreads, separated by a small wooden nightstand. Alongside the far wall were two dressers, one cabinet and a desk, all matching. Near the beds was a chaise lounge, perfect for tossing our clothes and other belongings. Next to the foot of my bed was a child’s rocking chair that stayed in place long after I’d outgrown it. Three windows brought in plenty of light and provided great views of our neighborhood.

Underneath the small nightstand was a trash can. Oval, made of metal, it featured a cowboy riding his horse with his six-shooter pulled and ready for action. Behind him were mountains, clouds, yellow turf and a red band at the bottom with western icons.

My brother and I managed to preserve most of the items in that bedroom. Dan has most of the dressers and cabinets, while the small rocking chair and the nightstand ended up with me, along with the trash can, which long ago started showing its age with some rust here and a dent there.

As it just so happens, my boys were not so different from Danny and me. When my son Josh, seven years older than his brother Coby, had the choice to have his own room in the home we were building, he asked if he could share it with his brother. So instead of two small bedrooms, we built one large one.

In that room was the little rocking chair, and the same nightstand between their beds that had separated Danny’s and my beds. And underneath that same nightstand—reminiscent of our 1960s-bedroom set-up—was the slightly beat-up cowboy trash can. I appreciated the resemblance of the room to that of my childhood, even if my sons did not.

I thought having my children at home would be a forever thing, but I was wrong—I guess happily. My boys grew up, moved away and have their own homes—their old room empty and longing. By then, the trashcan had grown a bit wearier, with more rust and more dents after another generation of Citron boys had abused it, whether as a basket for a ball game or from an accidental kicking.

One day, after the boys were long gone—though their room stayed exactly the same—I looked at the poor little trash can, and the cowboy seemed sad. Two generations had given him much enjoyment, and now he was just a lonely old ranch hand. I decided that he needed a new home. And while the nightstand and rocking chair are now in my grandson Evan’s room, I moved the trashcan to my study.

And there the slightly rusty, dented, old (vintage, now?) trashcan sits, chipped paint and all, in a prominent spot where I can see it whenever I’m in the room. With many grandchildren running through my study and with me spending a fair amount of time there, I’m happy to report that the cowboy’s spirits have been lifted considerably, his smile has broadened, and he seems ready for some new western adventures.

Essay: The Rain Dish

Words by Sloane Citron

My family has been doing the Dish for as long as I can remember. For those who don’t know, the Dish is a beautiful piece of rolling hills owned by Stanford University and named for the huge radio telescope on its upper area. While Stanford uses it for many purposes, most of us enjoy it for the superb hiking opportunities it affords. From the top, you can literally see the entire Bay. Depending on the weather, it’s an excellent way to gain a sense of where we live and how all the towns and roads intersect.

When we first discovered this treasure while my children were small, it was wild and free with no gates, no pavement, no rules or regulations. We would go up it and walk any which way we liked, exploring and discovering along the way. The kids would hunt for small animals—lizards and rabbits and toads—and find plants that they had never seen.

Stanford eventually saw that hikers were taking over the place and that they were losing control. My kids were probably to blame. Finally, much like the Joni Mitchell song, they “paved paradise and put up a parking lot” (literally).

Today, there is a peculiar parking area that requires you to back into the spots, inevitably causing traffic jams as you find a space and then clumsily pull forward and then backwards into it. On a warm spring day, finding a spot can be challenging and you have to wander around the neighborhoods to find a “legal” place to leave your car.

While I do understand that it is Stanford’s property (and I am an alumnus), I’m always sad to see the free and fun experiences in our lives disappear. Today, there is a paved path through the Dish with the understanding that you will stay on it. There is an entrance gate with a little house for a guard to sit in, to make sure dogs and bikes don’t wander through.

The place is now tame, like a lion in a zoo. Still wonderful and exotic, but caged, nonetheless. Even so, I and thousands of others are grateful to Stanford for allowing us to use this wonderful area to get some exercise, experience nature and improve our attitudes. One good loop and whatever your problems are, they become less.

The dish is not so much a walk as a hike. It’s not terribly challenging but you don’t see a lot of out-of-shape people on the paths. Last year, we tried to do it with a double stroller with two of my grandkids inside, and it was rough going. Pushing the stroller up some of the rather steep hills is a burn not easily forgotten. Finally, we had to take the kids out of the stroller and carry them as we pushed upward. It was clumsy but successful, though we did not try that again.

Recently, on one of our marvelous rainy days (atmospheric rivers, as they now call them), my son Josh, who has done the dish since he could walk, called me at work and asked me if I wanted to join him for a hike. I like being out in the elements and with my son, so I quickly said yes and an hour later we were backing into the parking lot, almost empty because of the inclement weather.

We were both bundled into raincoats with the hoods tied tightly, our faces the only unprotected areas of our bodies. The rain was intense and at times there were tiny ice pellets smacking against our raincoats, then bouncing to the ground. The wind tore ferociously against us and often we were forced to look down at the path and follow its edge. But to us, it was a perfect day.
We pushed forward, hiking the mostly empty trail. We still were able to have good conversation, much of it about the Dish itself. Josh would see the remnant of a dirt path and recall how he had run down it as a child. Like playing golf, hiking allows for real conversations and strengthening connections.

When we reached a high point, we looked up and there was the most perfect, beautiful double rainbow that either of us had ever seen. It stretched from one end of the valley to the other, and it was easy to imagine a gold pot at either end. The intense rain and winds created a different Dish, with downed trees, thousands of wild mushrooms and stunning cloud formations.

By the end of the trail, returning to the guard station and reality, our jeans, shoes and socks were completely soaked through. Perfect. It was special doing this hike with Josh. Hearing his memories of the place—and creating new ones together in memorable conditions—confirmed the Dish as a place where magic happens—forging bonds, refreshing our souls and, as always, coming out ahead, mentally and physically, from when we started a short hour before.

Essay: Surrender to the Waves

For several years now, my family has traveled to Cabo over the winter break. Each year, our number seems to increase (as my grandkids multiply) so that this year our count was 16.

Since I’m not a fan of sand, sun or ocean, I have begrudgingly gone along, playing the role of the good sport for the chance to spend time with my children and, increasingly, my grandchildren. If I had my druthers, we’d go somewhere where we could tour museums, study traditional architecture or visit old bookshops. But the rest of the family seems more interested in imbibing piña coladas on lounge chairs while staring at the ocean (and the many vendors selling their goods).

Until this year, and I say this honestly, I did not know the name of the resort that we religiously settled into on this annual excursion. Since people would ask and I could never answer, I made a point of learning that we go to Cabo Azul. And I also learned that Cabo Azul is in San José del Cabo, not Cabo San Lucas. I also made it a point to remember that the funky yet exquisite garden retreat where we go for a meal or two is called Flora Farms.

This lack of knowledge, including when we go, how long we stay and when we return, is courtesy of my children, who do absolutely all the arranging. My daughters, Arielle and Talia, take care of the hotel bookings, transportation, Flora Farms, meals, ancillary food and such, while my son, Josh and his wife Adara, experts in air travel, book the tickets. Finally, if we are lucky, my son Coby travels all the way from Tel Aviv to join us.

Sometime in November, they send me an email with the dates, and I put it on my calendar. I show up at the airport and like a small child, hand over my passport to my daughter-in-law Adara, who goes to the counter to check us in. The ticket agent eventually calls my name to match me to my passport and I smile and raise my hand. That is my sole responsibility, and one that I seem to be able to handle.

While I am naturally a leader, given that this is not my vacation per se and that there are 16 people—several with strong opinions—I have learned that keeping my mouth shut is the best, easiest and safest course of action. I don’t venture an opinion on anything if I can help myself—not what or where to eat, not if we are deciding to walk downtown, not even choosing what to order at a restaurant. I, as they say, go with the flow. Though sometimes I have to hold myself back, I find this whole concept of letting go somewhat liberating, except to my ego.

This last trip we flew Alaska Airlines. Fortunately, the plane was filled with families, so the screaming from my group of little ones was hardly noticed. The flight, especially when compared to my travels to Israel, is quick. One of the reasons my kids like going south instead of, say, to Hawaii, is that the time only changes by one hour, which makes it much easier on the parents and their children, who are all five and under.

At Cabo Azul (see, I remember the name of the place we stay) we get a large suite with three bedrooms and an additional two single bedrooms. The suite, with a huge living area and balcony, is best for us because that provides a play space for the kids. I wake up last (around 8:30) and walk out to pillow fights, couch jumping and breakfast crumbs everywhere. Someone (who knows who) goes down to the cabanas long before I awake (the first kids usually get up by 6:00) and saves us three spots overlooking the ocean. Then around 9:00, everyone packs up and the party moves down to the beach, where the rest of the day is spent ordering drinks and food, chasing children and swimming (actually, I’m the only one who swims; the others “play”) in the myriad of pools and hot tubs.

Before there were grandkids to play with, I would go find a chair, read for 10 minutes, get burned and be done. Now it is so much better. As the resident “Saba” to the seven little kids, I play in the sand, walk down to the ocean to let the waves attack us, go splashing in the kiddie pool, hunt for seashells, look for whales, play catch, go to the room to get something left behind and generally have a good time. It is a far cry from my earlier experiences, and I enjoy myself.

I know that I’m lucky for the opportunity to have these vacations and now I’m luckier still because I have some pretty sweet little kids to play with (along with seven wonderful children and children-in-law). One afternoon, lying in a shady cabana, I thought for a moment about seeing if there were any museums to visit, but then I felt a tug on my swim trunks by a rowdy four-year-old who wanted to go back into the waves for the fifth time that day. A better idea, far, far better.

Essay: It’s in the Genes

Periodically, I receive alerts from the DNA testing company 23 and Me about new traits associated with my genetic background, newly discovered DNA relatives or other interesting insights. Indeed, once I looked at my “new” relatives and found out that I had unbeknownst first cousins (but that’s a different story).

Recently, the company sent me information about my Neanderthal DNA (that we all apparently have), which was in the news since a report showed that those with higher levels of such DNA were more likely to get Covid.

I thought it worth exploring so I opened the email and checked out my Neanderthal component, thinking it must be high, thus elucidating some of my more barbaric traits. It turns out that my Neanderthal DNA amount is actually lower than most, perhaps explaining why I have never gotten Covid, despite not doing much to protect myself except for getting all vaccines the moment they become available.

The report listed several of my Neanderthal DNA traits and one clearly stood out: “You have two variants associated with having difficulty discarding rarely used possessions.”

I’ve found that these reports from 23 and Me are usually accurate, previous reports having stated that I have blue eyes, am not going bald and that I detest cilantro. All true. So, I have grown to respect their statements about my traits and habits.

My family laughed when I told them about this “new trait” since, as they know too well, it is a dominant aspect of my personality. Sometimes it’s a relief to know that it’s your genetics causing you to act in a certain way—and that you’re not just being deliberately stubborn or difficult.

While I am extremely organized and don’t desire a lot of possessions, I’ll gladly admit that I love the ones that I do have and have an extremely tough time parting with any of them.

Part and parcel to this is that I seem to practice anthropomorphism—the attribution of human qualities to inanimate objects. As a child, I remember watching my cousin throw a pencil out the window of my uncle’s car. All I could think about for the next hour was the poor pencil, whether it was injured or if other cars were running over it.

My childhood home, which was in my family for almost 70 years, held strong emotional attachments for me. Each room, every fixture, even light switch plates, held sway over me. When I returned there as an adult, I could touch a handrail, hear the whirr of the air conditioning or look into the food pantry and be instantly transported back to my once safe and loving childhood.

Walking into my sister’s bedroom triggered a rush of memories; looking at our front yard “baseball” diamond made me think of my brother Dan and our dog Tamby playing ball there. When I was inside that home for the final time, I took a few physical keepsakes and made a long video of everything so that I can forever relive those moments.

Despite efforts by my family to discard mementos of my children, I have managed to save a good number of them, including all four baby blankets, Little League shirts and hats, and a large assortment of drawings, homework assignments and awards. I also have a plethora of objects from my parents and grandparents, everything from passports to watches to my father’s favorite belt. I’ve tucked away dozens of mementos from my youth, from my first baseball trophy to the ribbon my dog Tamby won at a local dog show. Seeing and holding these objects gives me a great deal of pleasure and happiness.

I treasure a pair of kitchen scissors that were my mom’s, having traveled from our old home to the various stops she made until her passing. When I see them, hold them, I think of her with love. And in my office closet is a large poster of my daughter Tali, clutching a big frog when she was about four. Every time I open the closet door, I get a small spark of joy. I am so glad that I kept it.

Today, some “organizers” suggest taking photos of things you care about and then throwing them away, but they don’t understand that this is often a terrible mistake. Of course, being a slave to possessions is not good, but objects can have deep emotional and symbolic significance. When I see these “things,” they bring me serenity and moments of tender reflection.

In addition to my great-great-grandfather’s (Leib Citron’s) kiddush cup, which has his initials on it, I also have a beautiful, small Hanukkah menorah, a hanukkiah. Made from brass with a lion in the middle, it holds only small birthday candles. Each year at this time, I put it out with our collection of menorahs that we light. As I watch the tiny tapers glow, I am once again a six-year-old child mesmerized by the flickering flames.

I love this possession and the joy it brings me. And I will forever keep it with me and then pass it along to the next generation. No photograph would do. I guess you could say, it’s in my DNA. Merry Christmas and Happy Hanukkah.

Essay: A Perfect Playground

Words by Sloane Citron

I decided to take my oldest grandchild, Evan Citron, who is almost five, to Yom Kippur services with me this year. His parents go to a synagogue in San Mateo, but I wanted to take him to Beth Jacob in Redwood City, where we have belonged for a generation. Though it is a holiday of contemplation and no work, internet or eating, I had a special day planned.

Josh met us at the shul in the morning and handed over my little pal who was excited to join me. I put his kippah on with a special red clip, since red is his favorite color, and we headed straight inside to the children’s service out on the back patio. The chairs were mostly full, but we found a good spot to sit, the day perfect for being outside.

There, one of the rabbis led a highly animated service. About 30 to 40 children attended with their parents or grandparents. The liveliness of the stories and songs kept Evan involved, and soon his cousins (Liav, Levi and Noah), my daughter Tali and her husband Sam, showed up and joined us.

Following this brief service, I took Evan to the main sanctuary where the traditional service (a mostly all-day affair) was taking place. We went to the front to join my friend Jody, who always sits in the same spot. Almost immediately, the prayers for the United States and then Israel were recited.

For the prayer for Israel, the Rabbi asked anyone who had served or had children serve in the Israeli Defense Force to come up to the bimah to join in leading the reading. Although I wanted to honor my youngest son Coby, I was reluctant to go since I didn’t know how Evan would react, but the Rabbi urged us and so we walked up and my grandson, to his credit and my surprise, was a trouper all the way.

After a good half-hour in the adult service (without a single complaint or whimper from Evan), we went out to the adjacent play area. I met some younger people there and, as we do, we figured out who knew who and how we were connected (we are always connected). After a while, Evan was hungry and since the rules on fasting do not apply to him, we went outside to my car and there he had a fine lunch of tuna fish and chips.

Now in the early afternoon, our next stop was one of my favorite Peninsula parks: Stulsaft Park, just a few blocks from our shul. Our high holidays are a time for self-reflection, and one of my treasured activities is to perform Tashlich, the practice of symbolically casting away your sins into a moving body of water, preferably with fish in it.

Evan and I, his hand within my own, walked down the paths to the trickling creek at the bottom of the park. I have a favorite place to go, but this year, the water level was higher than normal, and though I could have made it there (crossing over various points) it was too challenging for a four-year-old, so we went about halfway until we found a lovely, shaded area on the bank of the creek.

I told Evan to think about all the good things that he could think of while I contemplated my life, both the good and the bad. It is a moment when I feel close to God, the stream running, birds chirping and the boldness of nature in front of me, not to mention this pure sweet child by my side. After a few minutes, we spotted dozens of small fish in the water and we pulled out our bag of breadcrumbs, used as physical symbols of sins for casting away.

I handed some crumbs to Evan, and he threw them into the water. We did so slowly, giving the tiny fish a chance to find them. We sat there feeling that special connection with nature. Slowly, a warm, surreal envelope encased us, a feeling of spiritual perfection, as this beautiful child and I sat together in our place next to the creek.

We spoke little and instead enjoyed the solitude. Sitting quietly, we watched the creek waters tumble and slide among the rocks, spilling, rolling along its path, the water splashing with a fine mist, dancing along from somewhere to someplace else. I asked Evan if he liked the creek. He thought for a moment, turned his head to me and said, “Yes. It’s a playground for water.”

A playground for water. I had never heard that phrase before, never considered it, never read it in a poem or heard it in a song. And yet, there it was, from a quiet boy four years old, almost five, a piece of poetic purity from his base of understanding and knowledge (his love of playgrounds) and the innocence of his youth.

We sat there then, the two of us, Evan throwing the last of the breadcrumbs toward the tiny fish, the sun slowly fading, a special bond between us. Together watching the pure, pristine water enjoy its magnificent playground.

Essay: A Fortune to be Made

Words by Sloane Citron

If you went into my home today, you’d believe that we’re running a day care center. There are quantities of highchairs, cribs, bouncy seats; vast numbers of dolls, stuffed animals, books for every age and situation; boxes and boxes of toys: trains, cars, bubble machines, fire trucks, dump trucks, army trucks; art materials from crayons to coloring books to markers. Our bathroom—where there is a good-sized tub for kids—has floating lights, bath toys, baby shampoo; boxes of diapers, sizes 1 through 6, are carelessly stored in closets throughout our home. The laundry room has stacks of tiny clothes, many with no apparent owner. There are single socks, odd shoes and half-eaten snacks hidden away in odd places.

Our pantry is packed with fruit roll-ups, breakfast cereal, lollipops, Bamba peanut butter puffs, baby food, and “snacks” of all kinds; our freezer holds macaroni and cheese; mini ice cream cones; push-up popsicles and more. Outside there are wagons, scooters, bikes, kinetic sand, Lego sets, baseball gloves, golf clubs, Frisbees, “floaties” and an entire container of swim toys.
My home is a minefield of children’s things. I am forever tripping over them, including the three detested car seats in our garage. Three of the most horrible, devious devices ever made; it’s like they’re taunting me every time I see them.

In the world of children’s devices, I can tell you from solid experience, there have been many improvements. Highchairs, for instance, fold neatly into smaller spaces, their trays slide and pop into action without a hitch, and they are simple to clean.

Diapers are a breeze with the best of them showing which side is front and which is back. Different sizes make for a better fit and the adhesive straps stay in place.

New, well-designed portable cribs simplify life. Press a button or two and they conveniently fold up into small, easily transported packages. And the best improvements are in strollers. They fold up easily, have cupholders and are lightweight.

But then there is my nemesis: car seats.

While the world has gone from landlines to smart phones; where you can find out in a moment why your six-month-old has red spots on his forehead; where you can call out into the air “Play Power Rangers” and (Poof!) music comes streaming from a small circular device, there is one thing that has not changed: car seats.

If it has been a while since you have dealt with one of these pitifully designed contraptions, here is an update: they have not changed in more than 30 years. They are still the frustrating, tangled mess of straps and metal bands that you dealt with when you were buckling in your children.
Okay, I’m sure the manufacturers of these tortuous devices would tell us that they are safer and better, but where it counts, they have failed us miserably.

When you buy your car seat from Target or Amazon or Walmart, the box states that the seat works for a newborn until they are applying to college—all you have to do is reconfigure them. Some even come with instructions. But unless you’re a fifth-year Stanford engineering student, it is impossible to figure out how to do this. If you’re lucky, you’ll be able to get it to work for whatever age your child is now. Forget about ever getting it to work for another age. The instructions come in 12 languages, all of them indecipherable. You are on your own.

Because I have seven grandchildren four and under, even three car seats are not enough to handle the various sizes and shapes of these little munchkins. That means that I am forever adjusting them, with not enough experience to do so easily and with each seat having its own particular way of making it bigger or tighter or smaller or looser.

And then, there are times when I need to move several seats from one car to another. For this, I need a meditation moment and a gathering of patience. Plus, a solid hour or two to fully accomplish this dreadful job. On top of all this, the straps become too tight or too loose, or tangled or twisted; it’s a bloody mess.

As someone now on his 11th small child, with more likely, I’m hoping that some brilliant mind might move their attention from creating more dumb game apps of spiders that you smash with oversized hammers and focus on something truly important: car seats. There is a bundle of money to be made. Just remember to name the first one after me.

Piano Man

Words by Johanna Harlow

Sometimes success comes through sequencing. Taylor Eigsti puts as much consideration into the order of the songs on his latest contemporary jazz album, Plot Armor, as he does in creating them. “The sequence tells a story,” he notes. Even if the music is good, an album can fall apart if it isn’t told in the right order—if “it doesn’t unravel in the right way.” He reaches for a metaphor to drive home the point. “You could see a great Picasso painting, but if it’s hanging in the bathroom of a Wendy’s, you’re going to be like, ‘Whatever.’ The framing is so important.”

Taylor’s life, like his albums, unfurls with profound purpose. As Menlo Park’s child prodigy turns 40 this year, he’s traveled a road paved with triumph and loss. Taylor has released nine albums, performed with the likes of Sting and John Mayer, and symphonies that include the New York Philharmonic, toured internationally and won a Grammy. But he’s also outlived his entire family and several mentors. Music is more than a career, it’s Taylor’s key to unlocking connection and catharsis.

Cover Photography: Lauren Desberg / Photography: Elizaveta von Stuben

Piano Prodigy

Taylor was born into a musical household, the offspring of two radio DJs from Indiana who fell in love, married and eventually moved to the Bay. But it was his sister Shannon, also a pianist, who catapulted him into musical pursuits. Not long after jamming with The Doobie Brothers at Shoreline Amphitheatre to their song “Listen to the Music,” Shannon passed away from leukemia. “She died one day before her high school graduation,” Taylor says. He began piano lessons soon after, at the age of four.

Though Taylor might be a polished performer today, his first recital was less than auspicious. “I started crying and I ran off,” he reminisces with a smile. “And then I yelled out, ‘Do I still get a donut?’” His stage fright didn’t last long however, and he landed his first paid gig at eight.

At that early age, little Taylor was all about smooth jazz. “I would fall asleep listening to that every night,” he says, adding that he looked up to pianist and composer David Benoit, who would later become his mentor. “I would try to pretend like I was him and emulate him because I liked the energy, the funkiness, the playfulness,” he describes. “I was him for Halloween!”

Photography: Elizaveta von Stuben

For the next few years, Taylor played background music at bars and restaurants. “I was able to get a lot of the ‘paying your dues’ young, which I’m grateful for,” he says. On the cusp of his teens, this 12-year-old had already played alongside his musical idol David, including at a concert at Sunset Magazine’s picturesque gardens in Menlo Park. But it was also the year Taylor’s dad passed away from cancer. Not long afterward, he would tell a local newspaper, “I’m a musician and so my music helps me get through things … I can take out anger and sadness, and the other 20 zillion feelings that people get, on the piano.”

Staying strong, Taylor started a band with his friends at the age of 13, dropped his first album Tay’s Groove at 14 and started teaching at Stanford Jazz Workshops at 15. “So many people in this area gave me a chance,” Taylor shares, mentioning promoter and jazz historian Herb Wong, the folks at the San Jose Jazz Society and countless others who took him under their wings and set him up for success. By the time he reached his college years, he’d already recorded four albums.

Photography: Andy Nozaka

Finding His Voice

But it wasn’t until his 20s that Taylor felt like he’d truly found his own sound. “It became less emulating,” he reflects. Now, “I have more conviction over who I am as a musician and as a stylistic identity.” Classifying his work as modern progressive jazz with some cross-genre flair, Taylor notes, “As I grew older, I absorbed a lot of other influences from different types of music—everything from classical music and Björk, pop music and soul, R&B … I play all the time with musicians who are a little bit more genre-unspecific.”

His music’s intricacy, another mainstay in his composition, stems from musical collaborations. Not only have numerous artists lent their voices and instruments to Taylor’s albums, but he’s also repaid the favor, joining in as a supporting sideman on over 70 albums to date. “It’s such an interesting community where we all play in each other’s bands,” he describes. This relational method of music-making stands out when Taylor performs with his quartet. He frequently interacts with the other players on stage, a captivating conversation held entirely in expressions and riffs.

Photograph: Patryk Larney

That collaborative spirit is strong in his 2021 album Tree Falls, a work filled with rich symphonic sound and sweeping strains. “I wanted to have the strings and woodwinds and have that kind of orchestral lushness in there,” Taylor describes.

One special song, “Rainbows,” was inspired after Taylor listened to a recording from his sister’s memorial service. “Some tunes take 10 years, some tunes are just the never-ending bridge—I wrote that tune in 10 minutes,” he shares.

The Highs & Lows

It didn’t take long for Tree Falls to garner a lot of attention, and the season following the album’s release was a whirlwind. “It was a really weird year,” Taylor notes of 2022. In quick succession, he went through a breakup, won a Grammy Award for best contemporary instrumental album, then lost his mother to her long battle with dementia.

Days after her death, Taylor found solace in composing. “I’ve dealt with enough tragedy in my life that I’m not going to stop the world and just sit in the grief,” he notes. “Every single day that I would be home from the road, I was working on that album.” He spent 71 days recording on four different pianos (including Frank Sinatra’s Steinway) to bring the album Plot Armor to life.

Photography: Tafadza Chiriga

Not only is the album dedicated to his mother, but the lyrics of the track “Fire Within” are also drawn from notes left behind by Taylor’s mom. It’s sung by Lisa Fischer, a backup singer who toured with the Rolling Stones for over 25 years, and whom Taylor considers family. “I needed the screaming voice behind the Rolling Stones for my mom,” Taylor laughs. “I didn’t want some sappy, sad tune. That wasn’t her, you know?” He adds that Lisa truly took the task to heart. “She set up pictures of my mom in the studio. She wanted to channel her.”

In fact, 20 musicians supported Taylor on Plot Armor. “I wanted moments where you’re hearing a viola and it turns into a flute and then it turns into a voice,” Taylor describes. “I deliberately wanted blurriness because life isn’t always clear … The more we make music reflect life, the harder it hits us emotionally because I think it becomes more human.” And he, more than most, understands that life, unlike piano keys, isn’t black and white.

Taylor hugs his mom. (Photography: Taylor Eigsti)

Taylor Today

The pianist continues to prosper, embracing new projects and performing alongside the musicians he calls friends. He’s also worked on film soundtracks for directors Spike Lee and Tony Kaye. “It’s a selfless form of creating music, because you’re invisible but powerful,” Taylor says of cinematic songs. “Like a hand in front of someone’s face but the fingers are open. Powerful but transparent and present.”

What’s next? “My next record will probably be something for my dad,” Taylor says. “There’ll be more electronics on that. Because he was a gadget guy, and he was always soldering in the garage.”

Though he mainly lives in New York, Taylor retreats to North Carolina, where his girlfriend lives, when he needs to detach from all distractions. He’ll hole up at his house (fondly called “The Ranch”) and let inspiration strike. “I use that house like a compositional studio now. I can write on the walls and stuff. It looks like I’m trying to solve a serial killer case,” he chuckles. “It’s an isolated bubble. There, the world slows down.”

Photography: Jim Fung - Peninsula Symphony Orchestra

That said, you’ll still find Taylor returning regularly to the Bay Area. Recently, he played alongside his longtime pals at the Peninsula Symphony Orchestra, treating the audience to his original compositions as well as Gershwin’s rousing Rhapsody in Blue. “They’re just so friendly,” Taylor says of the symphony’s musicians. “Everyone’s giving me hugs!” He also faithfully puts on concerts at Stanford University each year. “It feels like a home game,” he says with a big smile.

all that jazz – tayjazz.com

Pasta Aplenty

Words by Andrea Gemmet

Almost every Friday, you’ll find Trish Battaglia cooking up something delicious for the staff lunch at Saporito Pasta in Redwood City. In good Italian fashion, it’s known as the “mangia meal,” and Trish is always changing the menu to whatever the factory’s small crew is craving. “I do salmon or tri-tip, sometimes burgers, a lot of seafood,” Trish says. Perhaps unsurprisingly, pasta is frequently on the menu. “They always want pasta!” she laughs.

Saporito is tucked into an unassuming block of industrial buildings off of busy Veterans Boulevard. Inside a small office space, I find Trish wearing a chef’s coat and bright blue hair net. I suit up and follow her onto the factory floor, a compact space humming with activity, as Saporito’s handful of skillful staffers are hard at work producing hundreds of pounds of pasta. Angel hair emerges from the imported Italian extruder—“Just like Play-doh,” Trish comments—and with the swipe of a blade, handfuls of slender golden strands are freed from the machine, tossed with flour, gathered in a loose twist and gently placed in a clamshell box.

Short, ridged tubes of mostaccioli pop out from another extruder, while nearby, the laminator is producing sheets of pasta that will be cut into linguine, lasagna and pappardelle. Another specialized machine produces nothing but plump, potato-enriched gnocchi. Metal trays fill up with packages of pasta and are rolled past 50-pound bags of flour and into the walk-ins to chill.

At Saporito, there’s a strict order of operations. The first pasta of the day is the traditional stuff, made with just flour and water—“All our Italian clients ask for that,” Trish explains—followed by pasta enriched with eggs and lastly, flavored pastas. On this overcast Thursday, Saporito is making lemon-pepper linguine and saffron pappardelle. Once, they even produced a special order of chocolate linguine. Which raises the question: What would you serve with that? Trish considers it for a moment, then suggests a rich mole sauce.

With a background in catering and a lifelong love of cooking, Trish comes up with many of Saporito’s recipes. Her culinary skills date back to childhood, when she’d perch on the counter while her grandmother, a professional cook, would show her how to dole out ingredients with her hands, no measuring cups needed. Trish remembers getting frustrated and protesting that she couldn’t do it. Her grandma would tell her, “If you have love for what you do, your recipe will always come out.”

In the eight years that Trish, her husband Greg and their business partner Brian Mulcahy have run Saporito, they’ve had to get creative to make the business successful. When corporate campuses like Facebook and Google closed during the lockdown, they shifted from supplying company cafeterias to selling fresh pasta in Peninsula grocery stores like Piazza’s, Sigona’s, Bianchini’s and DeHoff’s. You can also find Saporito’s pastas served at restaurants including Vino Santo in Redwood City, Miramar and It’s Italia in Half Moon Bay, Stamp Bar & Grill in San Carlos as well as Cafe Pro Bono and Local Union in Palo Alto. Chefs will provide the filling for ravioli to Saporito, which sends back perfectly stuffed pasta pillows.

And it’s not all savory stuff. Saporito added a baking division that produces desserts like tiramisu, chocolate ganache cake, lemon curd tarts, raspberry cheesecake and colorful macarons. Their bakers came from French Patisserie, the now-closed wholesale bakery in Pacifica. “Our desserts are not super-sweet, but they’re decadent,” Trish says.

The one thing they can’t do at Saporito is make pastas and sauces with meat fillings—there just isn’t enough space. So in 2023, Trish, Greg and Brian created BPM Fine Foods, a second facility in Redwood City where they make things like meat lasagnas, savory stews and a line of quiches.

Saporito Pasta is truly a family affair. After they went into business, Brian and Greg discovered that they are distant cousins and Brian Jr. is behind the design of Saporito’s label. Trish and Greg’s son Alex recently joined the company and has become the driving force behind Saporito’s vegan products.

Trish says there’s no mistaking freshly made pasta for the dried stuff that comes in a box. “Once you’ve eaten fresh pasta, you never go back,” she says with a smile.

deliciously al dente – saporitofood.com

MAKE IT: SAPORITO'S ITALIAN PASTA SALAD
Trish Battaglia prefers chunky rigatoni or mostaccioli in her go-to pasta salad. Use any combination of ripe heirloom tomatoes when they’re in season, or her suggested blend of tomatoes found in grocery stores year-round. Makes eight servings.

Ingredients
2 pounds fresh Saporito pasta 
1-2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 teaspoon plus 1 tablespoon kosher salt
4 ounces green onions, chopped
3 tablespoons Italian parsley, chopped
1 teaspoon dried oregano
¼ teaspoon cracked pepper
1-2 cloves garlic, finely chopped 
2 ounces fresh basil, cut into chiffonade
2 tablespoons capers (optional)
2.5 pounds tomatoes: Romas, Kumatos, cherry 
and Constellation
1 bottle of your favorite Italian salad dressing

In a large pot, bring four quarts of water to a boil and add a tablespoon of salt. Cook pasta to your liking then drain it in a colander and rinse it with cold water. Drain well and set aside to cool.

In a large bowl, add olive oil and salt. Then mix in the green onions, parsley, oregano, cracked pepper, garlic, basil and capers (if using). Cut up the tomatoes into bite-sized chunks and add them to the bowl.

Incorporate cooled pasta into the tomato mixture, then slowly add bottled salad dressing to taste, mixing well. Chill for four hours before serving or store in the fridge overnight in an airtight container.

Place Setting

Words by Johanna Harlow

Ahome staged by Coco Silver is a tastefully transformed space—but the process of gussying up a house before selling it is far from glamorous. “This is a tough business,” shares the owner of Coco Home. “It’s not about pretty sofas.”

With a stylish yet sensible aesthetic, Coco pairs her practical overalls with a sharp blazer and bold frames. She’s currently at her base of operations: a warehouse lined with Costco-sized racks, each one brimming with furniture, rugs, mattresses and enough art and photography prints to fill a gallery or two. As she moves among the rows, Coco explains that preparing homes for potential buyers involves a lot of “schlepping and packing and unpacking” as well as constant refurbishing and serious strategizing—and that’s before arriving on site.

Cover Photo and Above Photo: Courtesy of Ashley Maxwell Photography

“Sometimes when you get there, it works flawlessly—most of the time. And then other times you’re like, ‘This is a hot mess. Nothing is working,’” observes Coco. “The house has to speak to the pieces you bring in. And if it doesn’t, it vomits them out. And you’re like, ‘Nope, it does not want to be here.’” Fortunately, with a decade and a half of experience under her belt, this is a rare occurrence for the Mountain View resident. She also has lead designer Bre Heagney and a strong team backing her. “I can do it in my sleep now,” she affirms.

The main ingredient to making the staging process look effortless? It’s all in the prep work. “When we walk through a house, we’re like, ‘Okay, where’s the baby going? Is this going to be multi-generational and the grandparents are going to be here? Where’s Thanksgiving happening?’” She adds, “We even name the rooms.”

Photo: Courtesy of Evoke Media

Coco and her team take stock of what they have currently available in the warehouse, then delegate items across a number of projects—all while making each and every home look like a cohesive whole. Like a chess player, Coco must think several steps ahead. Except the pieces she’s moving are coffee tables and couches. “You constantly have to pivot,” she notes.
But for Coco, it’s in her blood. “My mom was Pinterest before Pinterest—always changing furniture and building couches out of cement blocks,” Coco recalls fondly. “We’d wake up to a whole new living room.”

Don’t get the wrong idea. Staging and interior design are “two completely different animals,” Coco observes. “Interior design is permanent. It’s lifestyle. How are your kids going to wear and tear this piece of furniture? Do you have dogs? Is it comfortable?” On the other hand, “Staging is an illusion. It is setting a set. It’s a prop house. We look at all the angles, at where the shot’s going to be and how it’s going to photograph, the size and scale of furniture.”

Photo: Courtesy of Evoke Media

Though she sources everything wholesale these days, in the scrappy early days of her business, Coco incorporated items from thrift and antique stores as well as pieces from her own home. “I’d have the box of my favorites,” she says. Like the print of Vermeer’s Girl with a Pearl Earring given to her by her mother. “When I first started staging, that went into all of my houses.” Once in a while, it still makes a comeback.

Coco moves away from the main part of the warehouse to a side room with all kinds of treasures. Sculptures and serving trays, impressive bottles of whisky and gin, a pair of gilded antlers and endless other homey knickknacks ensure that no coffee table or bookshelf in one of Coco’s homes goes naked. There’s an abundance of wicker baskets and ottomans. Heaps of throw blankets and pillows (fluffy, patterned and tasseled). A bounty of books organized in color-coded stacks with inviting titles like The Time-Traveling Fashionista, The Diary of Frida Kahlo, Bad Girls Throughout History and How to Boil an Egg.

“I think my home looks very much like a Coco home project,” muses the staging designer, who says she gravitates toward an open look with neutral colors and a minimal approach.

Photo: Courtesy of Evoke Media

Coco also appreciates versatile items that work well across a variety of homes. “It’s such a curated eye,” she remarks of the designing process, explaining that there’s an art to weaving things into a cohesive whole. If you don’t have that knack, you’ll end up instead with a “big pile of home goods.”

Among Coco’s other talents is hospitality. In collaboration with singer and friend James Lanman, she hosted a popup holiday party last year at her warehouse, using her staging stash to deck out the industrial space. It had this “vibey kind of New York minute feeling,” she describes. “It was very speakeasy.” Guests savored pisco sours and Peruvian bites in the lobby-turned-lounge, then were ushered into the main warehouse for an intimate concert. As the audience settled into Coco’s eclectic inventory of couches and chairs, wrapping themselves in throw blankets, James and his five-piece band took the stage, performing jazzy holiday songs under the stringlights. “It broke my heart to take it down,” Coco says, adding that before they did, she used the setup as a backdrop for a couple of photo shoots as well as a sleepover with her kids.

Photo: Courtesy of Evoke Media

That isn’t the last time Coco has utilized the space to build connections. She’s also opened up her warehouse to host a real estate panel to shine a light on exemplary vendors in the industry, and plans for another popup with James are in the works. “When you come into someone’s home, it’s such a personal moment,” Coco muses. “To bring people to our house is so rad.”

Whatever the future holds, there’s a storehouse of possibilities waiting for Coco. Wherever she goes, she’ll be right at home.

making room – lovecocohome.com

Airy and Bright

Words by Loureen Murphy

When Kendra Nicholas Nash of Nash Design Group clicked with her neighbors at a San Carlos block party, she found they had even more in common than UCLA alum status and same-aged kids. They shared a similar design vibe. So when these neighbors bought a lot, complete with dilapidated house begging for demolition, they turned to Kendra. Together, they began discussing plans for a new Spanish Revival structure—kid-friendly for their growing family, yet classic enough to be their forever home.

“The client’s style is very aligned with that effortless feel that I think about in design,” says Kendra. “In the end, it should look effortless yet thoughtful.” She assigned Lead Designer Amalia Kallas to capture the vision that photographer/influencer Emily Scott and her husband shared for their intentional project.

Right off, the Scotts and NDG anchored three key design elements: signature Spanish arches, Spanish floor tile, and surprisingly enough, the cooking range. The grand arched window by the dining area launched the arch motif. “They really wanted beautiful light,” says Kendra. The theme now echoes throughout the home in doors, archways, the beverage niche and the cooking alcove. Within that alcove sits the custom Lacanche range in Tilleul, a soft green carried throughout the design, also used on the custom tile stair risers by Fire Clay.

Rich terra cotta tile by Arto Brick grounds the whole first floor with a Mediterranean aura. That level comprises a great room with kitchen, breakfast nook, dining room, fireside sitting area, maker studio and laundry, along with the primary bed and bath. Kendra says the great room owes its impact to the tiles’ vernacular.

The high-ceilinged white stucco interior offsets the dark flooring and gives the natural light more play, while exposed wooden beams reinforce the Spanish feel without heaviness. Wrought iron railings along the stairs complete the look. Though the construction is new, vintage found and restored pieces add texture and generational depth, lending the lived-in sense the clients treasure. In Emily’s studio, where she restores and upcycles anything from frames to textiles, these items take on new life.

The owners and designers now bask in the success of the home, and the great room in particular. “When dealing with such an open space, all of the materials and lighting and finishes have to complement each other,” Kendra explains. Whether it’s positive and negative space or materials and fixtures from different vendors, designers must evaluate colors, patterns and materials from all angles of the room. Cohesiveness and harmony equal a win.

Some favorite details include the stair risers and the light fixture above the stairs, a customized trio of pendants creating a unique chandelier. Another pleaser: the highly customized marble-topped island. Because the breakfast nook with built-in bench already meets the need for seating, the island has no overhang. Instead, the piece serves as a beautiful workhorse, with every inch in use—down to the drawers holding remotes to control the window treatments.

Perhaps the powder room best embodies the home’s old world/new times vibe. Plaster-finished walls in warm Valentine by Omega Color Tech embrace the ornate antique mirror from Placemakers, the simple pendant lamp from Lostine and Watermark Designs’ wall-mounted brass fixtures over the Art Deco sink with vanity space by Kast Concrete Basins. Kendra says the juxtaposition of a few modern pieces amid the old world ambiance stamps this place as her clients’ home, revealing their distinct personality.

Despite permit delays, Covid shortages and welcoming a third child in the midst of the process, Kendra’s clients rolled with everything. They didn’t compromise on their budget nor on their vision. Now they thrive in this beautiful, airy new space—their dream home. “I always tell clients, ‘If you just keep thinking about this one thing over and over again, then it’s what you’re meant to have,’” reasons Kendra.

divine design – nashdesigngrp.com

Peruvian Perfection

Words by Elaine Wu

If Arturo Bazan, executive chef and co-owner of Callao in Los Altos, had his way, Bay Area foodies would learn to embrace the cuisine of his native Peru the way they do Mexican food. “Everyone knows tacos. But if you want to know more about ceviche, I want to give people that knowledge,” he says proudly. “It’s part of me. It’s part of my culture.”

A native of Peru’s capital city Lima, Arturo has been cooking since he was 10 years old. With both of his parents working long hours in law enforcement, his mother decided to arm her child with some basic cooking skills so he could take care of himself. As he got older, he relished the responsibility of cooking for the family. “I have an amazing Mom and Dad but they didn’t always have time to cook,” Arturo recalls. ”It made me feel important because I started preparing food for my parents. Then I wanted to try preparing more interesting foods and experiment.”

That curiosity in the kitchen guided Arturo toward a culinary career, which led to working in some of Lima’s finest restaurants alongside award-winning chefs. But strangely enough, he didn’t feel fulfilled. “In Latin America, people work because they’re passionate about what they do,” he explains. “But I got tired of the routine. I wanted more. I wanted to make homemade, authentic, real Peruvian food here in America. The food of my culture, like my Mom used to make.”

So when his friend Juan Carlos Sosoya invited Arturo to join him in opening Jora, a food stand in the San Pedro Square Market in San Jose, he left home. “It was the most important decision of my life, deciding to come to the United States,” Arturo says. “I never thought about owning a restaurant because it’s a lot of stress and a lot of work! But Jora was small and I thought, why not?”

After a year of positive feedback and requests from loyal customers to open a sit-down restaurant, Arturo and business partners Juan Carlos and Pablo Delgado went looking for just the right space. It took them three long years, but in 2024, they opened Callao on First Street in Los Altos. “Peruvian food is very similar in produce and ingredients as Mexican food. But we have different preparation and flavors,” Arturo explains. “I try to use spice to flavor, not cause pain. With each bite, I want people to taste all the flavors on the plate. A little salty, sweet, sour, a little bit of spice. This is my style.”

Though he was born in Lima, Arturo considers his home to be the neighboring seaside city Callao, where he spent most of his time. “Callao is more casual, more of a community than Lima,” he says. “People in Callao eat more ceviches, seafood, rice. I try to make true Peruvian food, so 90 percent of our menu is authentic classic dishes.” As for that other 10 percent of the menu? That’s where you’ll find some of Arturo’s less traditional dishes, like the crab croquettes.

For first-timers to Peruvian food, Arturo has some recommendations. Every table should start with a ceviche, an appetizer made with fresh fish and a citrus-based sauce. He also suggests entrees like the seco de cordero, a lamb stew with cilantro sauce served with beans and rice, or the arroz con pato, which is smoked duck served with cilantro rice. But there is one must-have dish if you are new to Peruvian cuisine. “Lomo saltado,” Arturo advises. The soy sauce-marinated beef tenderloin sautéed with onions, tomatoes and yellow peppers “is the one obligatory dish you have to try.”

After working in kitchens on two continents, Arturo’s pride for his homeland comes through in his dishes, and he’s passionate about sharing his Peruvian heritage with the Bay Area through his food. “It’s crazy to me that a chef would have a secret recipe that they don’t want to share. I know a lot of chefs are this way,” Arturo declares. “The beautiful thing about being in the kitchen is that even if you have one recipe, everyone’s dish will taste different. It’s a part of you on the plate.”

MAKE IT: CALLAO'S CLASSIC CEVICHE

This basic recipe for the traditional Peruvian appetizer is highly customizable. Use whatever firm white fish you’d like. The acid in the lime juice will “cook” it, so serve the ceviche immediately to prevent the fish from getting rubbery. Makes enough for 10 people.

Ingredients
3 cups fish broth
4 cups lime juice
½ cup celery, diced
½ cup yellow onion, finely chopped
¼ cup grated ginger
¼ cup salt
3 cups firm white fish, cut into 1-inch pieces
1 red onion, diced
¼ cup cilantro

Combine the fish broth, lime juice, celery, yellow onion, grated ginger and salt in a large bowl. Add in the fish, red onion and cilantro. Serve immediately.

tasty traditions – callaoperuviancuisine.com

Orchestrating Magic

Words by Loureen Murphy

A wave of Mitchell Sardou Klein’s magic wand unleashes dynamic tales, resonating with power and delicacy, exultation and depth. Unlike apprentice Mickey Mouse in Fantasia, the maestro of Peninsula Symphony Orchestra remains in complete control of his baton’s wizardry. Now celebrating 40 years at its podium, he shares the elements of his orchestral alchemy with bass player Jeff Wachtel harmonizing. Both men were reared in New York, trained under noted musicians and ended up in the Bay Area, making music with the Peninsula Symphony.

Surrounded by Music

Mitch grew up free of a sense of musical destiny, even though his cellist father co-founded the Claremont Quartet, and his mother was an accomplished pianist and ballet dancer. In placing a half-size cello in his four-year-old son’s hands, Irving Klein simply drew Mitch into the family milieu. Though the close connection to his dad brought him joy, the self-described nerdy 1950s kid preferred a bat and glove to a bow and strings. “Music came pretty naturally for me,” he recalls. “But I wasn’t one of those kids to practice three or four hours a day. That was just not me.”

However, young Mitch did listen to string quartets day and night as his dad’s quartet rehearsed downstairs in their New York home, while his uncle, a Budapest Quartet member, lived and rehearsed upstairs. “I got to see at a very high level, at a very young age, how a musical piece is put together by the composer and by the musicians.” Mitch calls this the “backbone” of his future career.

 

Still, performing as a professional cellist by his early 20s was not a dream come true. Drawn toward science, Mitch began university as a theoretical physics major and ended up majoring in political philosophy. Finding the career possibilities in those fields unappealing, he concluded, “It was going to have to be music.” Completing a music minor, Mitch then pushed on through grad school, refocused.

“It took me a long time to realize how much music was embedded in me,” Mitch observes. Daunted by assuming the same occupation in which his family had been prominent and successful, “I shied away from it for a very long time.”

He leveraged his cello mastery to take assistant conductor roles in small orchestras. Mitch explains that learning to conduct differs from honing his craft as a musician, in which practice is the key. “That doesn’t work as a conductor until you get up on the podium in front of an orchestra and fail into success, figuring out what works and what doesn’t.”

On taking up the baton, Mitch’s skill and passion for conducting only magnified, as did his reputation. Bass player Jeff, who initially met Mitch at a guest conductor gig at the Stanford Symphony Orchestra, says his impressions have not altered since first downbeat. “I played under many conductors, and Mitch stands above all the others.” Why? His deep passion for the music, extraordinary knowledge of it and the ability to command and impart immediate respect, Jeff attests.

Cover Photo and Above Photo: Courtesy of Annie Barnett

Keeping Score

A conductor’s score, with perhaps 20 staves read simultaneously, can boggle a musician’s mind. Mere brain food for Mitch. “Score study is primary because I can read it and pretty much hear the music,” he says. Scrutinizing the score raises questions. Equipped with answers, Mitch comes to the first rehearsal and every succeeding one with clarity on how to shape the piece and ensure all the players work in unity.

In a sense, he’s translating the composer’s emotional language to convey the story. Mitch notes, “Music is about artists telling something about themselves, about the composer, about life, about all the challenges and joys that we experience, to an audience.” Mitch draws the emotions from the composition as he sees them, uniting the composer, conductor and artist in three-part harmony.

With its unique manner of storytelling, “orchestras have this vast palette of colors and shapes and power that no other musical ensemble has had in the history of music,” says Mitch. Jeff affirms that performers delight in “being in the middle of all this incredible sound.”

Mitch’s amazing consistency in score interpretation elicits great trust. Jeff recalls Peninsula Symphony rehearsing a piece that, on first run-through, sounded discordant, as if they’d played the wrong notes. When Mitch asked all sections but one to play more softly, “All of a sudden, what sounded like chaos made perfect sense. It all came together,” says Jeff, adding, “He can deconstruct the most difficult passages.”

Photo: Courtesy of Jim Fung - PSO

The Secret Language

People often ask whether the conductor is really necessary. “Aren’t the musicians just looking at their music anyway?”

“It’s an exercise in nonverbal communication,” explains the maestro. “Not entirely, because at rehearsals, we talk. But the less you talk, the more efficient the rehearsal.” They develop a shared nonverbal language, a visual shorthand that is partly learned, partly intuitive.

Mitch honors those who understand that language, perceiving its layers and nuances. He also possesses an immediate way of commanding respect without harshness. “He’s deeply respectful of the musicians,” Jeff explains. In rehearsals, Mitch will compliment a soloist or section when they’re doing particularly well.

With years of conducting experience worldwide, Mitch gets instant deference wherever he directs. When jazz pianists David Benoit and Grammy-winner Taylor Eigsti came to perform with Peninsula Symphony, the musicians felt nervous, Jeff admits. “With the guest artists, we usually get two rehearsals, so we really need to be on top of things.” When Mitch came out, he had complete command and genuine relationships with the musicians, whom most had only seen on album covers. “He put everybody at ease, right from the start,” Jeff says.

Up the Scale

Almost from his start with Peninsula Symphony, Mitch has been instrumental as the director of the Irving M. Klein International String Competition in San Francisco, watching many winners go on to vibrant musical careers.

Then in 1997, Mitch co-founded the Peninsula Youth Orchestra with Sara Salsbury, and directed its Senior Orchestra for 27 years, taking teens on international tours every two years before retiring and handing off the baton this year to Brad Hogarth. The best part of his experience leading the talented youngsters? “Seeing the orchestra come away with the pride of doing their best playing in front of a European audience,” Mitch responds. These young musicians learn to contextualize music history while exploring the composers’ hometowns.

Photo: Courtesy of Annie Barnett

New Notes

Venerable reams of symphonic music could supply the symphony for the foreseeable future, yet Mitch relishes introducing artists to new composers and fresh pieces. “If you’re doing a world premiere, you really have to look so deeply into the composer’s intentions,” he describes. “Everything you do is new.” The risk? “You don’t really know until you do it how well it communicates with the audience.” For musicians like Jeff, the risk pays off in exposing the music community to works they haven’t heard before.

With variations on that theme, Peninsula Symphony’s 76th season kicked off with some original orchestrations by Menlo Park’s own Taylor Eigsti, along with Gershwin’s iconic Rhapsody in Blue. There’s also November’s annual performance with the Stanford Symphonic Chorus. “It’s always a treat,” Mitch says. The season finale will feature the 2023 Klein Competition Winner, violist Emad Zolfaghari, in Respighi’s stunning The Pines of Rome in May 2025.

The long-term synergy between maestro Mitch and his musicians—some of whom predate his time with PSO—has created its own living instrument: the orchestra itself. “What’s unusual about Peninsula Symphony is that it’s really community-based, community-connected,” he describes. “They bring a huge amount of energy and dedication to what they do. Everybody’s there just to share the joy of making music together.”

Seven Questions with Maestro Klein

Family life? Married to Patti 40-plus years, after meeting in an orchestra. We have two energetic grandsons.

Instruments played? Cello and piano

Time with Peninsula Symphony? 40 years

Favorite concert venue? Dvořák Hall in Prague

Career crescendo? Our first Peninsula Symphony concerts in October 2021 after the very difficult Covid year. Getting the orchestra together and performing for our wonderful audience was very renewing and exhilarating.

Crunchy or creamy? Definitely crunchy. Crunchy as a generalization in life is much nicer than creamy.

Skateboarding? Never tried skateboarding. I try to do a lot of walking and hiking, especially in places like Point Reyes, the San Mateo County coast and the East Bay Parks.

musical journey – peninsulasymphony.org

Enchanting Santa Barbara

Words by Sheri Baer

It’s not the typical notepad you see on a hotel room desk. Instead of those sterile white sheets you’d use to jot down a reservation time or quick reminder, this decorative cream-colored paper explicitly invites pause and introspection: “My intention for today is …” At the storied resort known as El Encanto, set against the backdrop of the Santa Barbara hills with sweeping views to the Pacific, the raison d’être is filling in that blank. And any answer is the right one.

The Allure of The American Riviera

The same Highway 101 we use to traverse the Peninsula also leads—factoring in about a five-hour drive—to Santa Barbara. For many, this Central Coast gem is a familiar destination, known for Spanish-style architecture, laid-back beaches, buzzy restaurants and a world-class wine scene. Dubbed the “American Riviera” more than a century ago, Santa Barbara leans into the nickname, embracing its Mediterranean climate, red-tile roofs and gentle ocean breezes.

Cover Photo: Courtesy of Brian Chiorski /  Photo: Courtesy of Chris Schuster

The quintessential Santa Barbara getaway evokes visits to State Street Promenade, Stearns Wharf and wine tasting in the Funk Zone. There’s a slew of family-friendly, swimmable beaches, along with hiking, kayaking and sailing. But in the Golden Age of Hollywood, celebrities like Clark Gable, Carole Lombard and Hedy Lamarr turned to Santa Barbara—and specifically, a property called El Encanto—for a different kind of escape. Above the hubbub of the city, they discovered a secluded hilltop haven.

Luxurious Escape

Nestled in the foothills of the Santa Ynez Mountains, the original craftsman structures here served as school housing, before being converted into a cottage-style resort in 1918. Over the years, “the Enchanted Place” evolved, weaving additional Spanish colonial-style bungalows into seven landscaped acres of gardens, while cultivating a reputation for serene privacy.

Today’s El Encanto, a Belmond Hotel, embodies a splurge-worthy hideaway steeped in wellness. After winding up the final picturesque bend, we are greeted with an offer of tropical iced tea with notes of wild roses.

Befittingly, the resort infuses the experience of an El Encanto stay with “seven touch points of tea”—distinctive blends ranging from welcome (arrival) to wake up (in-room), relax (spa) and replenish (fitness studio).

Photo: Courtesy of Macduff Everton

Simply walking the brick pathway to our bungalow foreshadows the restorative journey ahead. To our left, a fairytale pergola reveals basking turtles communing in a lily pond. On the right, Adirondack chairs and fire pits beckon from a sloping stretch of grass. We spot deep blue umbrellas around a zero-edge saltwater pool with the Channel Islands off in the distance. Beyond the pool deck, a stairway leads down to a state-of-the-art fitness studio, overlooking the chef’s garden, brimming with Italian basil, lavender and thyme.

And, at every turn, sensorial bursts of flora: eucalyptus, olive and lemon trees. Fragrant hydrangeas, jasmine and wisteria. I hear the sound of water cascading through intricate rockery as an intimate village of rooms, suites and bungalows emerges, seamlessly tucked into a botanical wonderland. (Gable and Lombard reportedly favored the Wishing Well cottage, nestled near its namesake fountain.) Although the historic property reflects Santa Barbara 1920s architecture, interiors read airy and spacious, with modern-day indulgences like marble tubs, heated stone floors and private terraces, along with luxe finishes and furnishings. To ensure a restful sleep, there’s a pillow menu, and the break of dawn cues a natural birdsong serenade.

Photo: Courtesy of Brian Chiorski

El Encanto Experiences

“My intention for today is …” With a gentle prompt, El Encanto drops all the bread crumbs for wellness but it’s up to guests to select their own path. Perhaps it’s staying on property, relaxing with a book on a garden terrace, indulging in a spa treatment, a sound bath meditation or therapeutic yoga.

Thoughtful touches elevate even the ordinary moments: the offer of refreshing frozen grapes while you’re lounging poolside, a chilled lavender-scented towel after a workout or hot chocolate and sweet nibbles in the lobby throughout the holiday season. We took advantage of the property’s complimentary e-bikes, winding our way past Old Mission Santa Barbara to explore downtown one day, and cycling up to Santa Barbara Botanic Garden on another to wander the towering redwoods and manzanitas. El Encanto also offers a selection of seasonal events and experiences, such as a customizable “Harmony of the Senses” day retreat, private painting sessions, holiday-themed workshops and curated winery tours.

Photo: Courtesy of Anais & Dax

Wine, Dine & High Tea

Santa Barbara is known for its vibrant culinary scene, and El Encanto plays its own contributing role. For light dining and handcrafted cocktails, we settle into comfy chairs in The Lounge, nibbling on white truffle fries, ahi tartar and a fig and prosciutto flatbread. On Thursdays, Gin & Jazz night takes over, as classic tipples and a trio of musicians conjure a speakeasy ambiance. With dramatic hillscape and ocean views, The Dining Room and Terrace offers elegant seating indoor or al fresco. The coastal California menu shifts with the season, highlighting local seafood and freshly picked herbs, lettuces and leeks from El Encanto’s own harvest.

As dusk falls, we relish each course, from burrata and salt-roasted peaches to local halibut with rock shrimp and cannellini beans. Under a canopy of twinkling lights and stars, we linger even longer, sweetly capping off the evening with butter pecan creme brulee and (Because who can decide?) a slice of Goleta lemon tart.

The Dining Room also plays host to El Encanto’s signature touch point: Afternoon Tea. The “Art of Afternooning,” as it’s known here, ritualistically unfolds over custom-blended infusions, savory bites, seasonal baked goods and decadent desserts. Forcing myself to look away from the three-tier visual feast before me, I make a point to scan the room. A honeymoon couple. A mother and daughter. A reunion of college roommates. What looks to be a milestone anniversary. Breaking off a piece of buttermilk scone, I peer out to the horizon line and breathe a contented sigh. Whatever the occasion, whether you’re staying as a guest or dining here, El Encanto entices with a sense of timeless tranquility. At least that’s the thought that occurs to me, right before I dip my knife into the ramekins of strawberry-basil jam and clotted cream.

hillside haven – belmond.com/elencanto

Strolling San Carlos

Words by Johanna Harlow

Ah, sweet San Carlos. You may know this city for its nostalgic summer events at Burton Park, ranging from movie nights and outdoor concerts to an annual August campout where families pitch their tents under the stars. Maybe you’ve attended Hometown Days in May and waved at the Girl Scouts and firefighters on parade floats, before enjoying some western dancing, antique cars, puppet shows and even hot air balloon rides. But this town is more than its festivities.

San Carlos, nicknamed “The City of Good Living,” exudes small town neighborliness. Most of its shops and restaurants are locally owned. It’s lush with trees and dotted with cute parks. The Frank D. Harrington pocket park is named after a beloved San Carlos citizen, volunteer and postman who greeted residents around town by name. Because that’s the kind of place this is. Take San Carlos up on its hospitality and plan a day trip to pay your friendly neighbors a visit.

Cover Photo: Courtesy of Johanna Harlow / Photo: Courtesy of Groovy Goose

Morning Meanderings

If you’re stifling a yawn from your early start, head straight to the Groovy Goose for some java. At this café, the caffeine boost comes with a dopamine hit from the shop’s disco balls and funky fresh color scheme. For the caffeine adverse, there are also smoothies like the Purple People Eater and Groovy Greens.

All fueled up? It’s time to take on the town! If it’s a Sunday, make your way over to Laurel Street for the San Carlos Farmers Market where you’ll find a bright row of tents along a tree-lined road, rain or shine. Browse this cornucopia of fresh fruits, vegetables, herbs and flowers between the hours of 9AM and 1PM.

Photo: Courtesy of Johanna Harlow

Find Your Niche

Time to track down some of San Carlos’ nearby specialty shops. First stop: Birder’s Garden, which supplies seed mixes, nesting boxes and feeders to entice titmice and towhees to your backyard. Those looking to embrace their creative side can pay a visit to Laurel Street Arts for pottery painting, mosaic making and glass fusing. To make your own melody, stop by Clock Tower Music for a symphony of instruments ranging from guitars and ukuleles to kalimbas and djembes. Be sure to return on the last Friday of each month when the shop’s open mic night spotlights local poets and musicians.

Photo: Courtesy of Johanna Harlow

Next, mosey on over to Olsen Nolte Saddle Shop. Along with ample equestrian tack, you’ll find rack upon rack of Western wear including cowboy hats, plaid shirts, leather boots and belts with really big buckles.

If you prefer travel by plane rather than palomino, ride like the wind to Hiller Aviation Museum to learn more about air travel. In a massive hangar packed with more than 50 aircraft and spacecraft dating from the 1860s to the present day, spend an hour or two learning about the origins of flight, aerodynamics, drones and daring pilots. Vessels vary in size from the hulking jet-black Boeing Condor with a wingspan longer than an Olympic-sized pool to the collapsible rotorcycle, not much more than a seat attached to rotor blades. And be sure to wave to a few pilots as they taxi down the San Carlos Airport runway next door.

Photo: Courtesy of Johanna Harlow

Trek the Trails

Come back to earth and ground yourself in nature at Eaton Park. Often overlooked for Redwood City’s nearby Edgewood Park and Pulgas Ridge Preserve, these dirt paths flanked by California bays and buckeyes see less foot traffic. Though steep, you’ll encounter some stunning views, so follow the little pedestrian bridges along the aptly named Four Bridges Trail, then see if you can track down the park’s labyrinth. If you want to lengthen your hike, continue on to Big Canyon Park, just on the other side of Brittan Avenue.

Take the long way back to downtown via Crestview Drive for more breathtaking views. Between the intersecting streets of Clover Lane and Lewis Ranch Road, you’ll find a scenic outlook nicknamed the Top of the World. On a clear day, it offers views of the East Bay and San Francisco. See if you can spot both the San Mateo and Dumbarton bridges.

Photo: Courtesy of Nadia Andreini

Food for Thought

There’s nothing “sleepy” about San Carlos’ dining scene—it’s a real feast of appetizing options. Take Impasto, which serves piping hot Neapolitan pizzas in a sleek space. Opt for the simple yet satisfying margherita or go bold with more daring toppings, like the Fichi, melding mozzarella with fresh figs, prosciutto and chestnut honey.

If you’re a foodie looking for the hottest new spot, you’ll want to head to Esnaf. A Turkish restaurant that opened in June, it’s a bohemian dream with wicker chairs and rattan light fixtures. Here, you’ll feast on succulent sirloin skewers, mercimek corbasi (a traditional lentil soup) and izmir köfte (meatballs and peppers served with a yogurt and tomato sauce).

Other excellent options include Drake’s, New American cuisine in a historic building with beautiful brickwork and wrought iron chandeliers, and Taurus Steak, a Brazilian steakhouse for meat lovers in the mood to splurge.

For dessert, you can’t go wrong at Gelataio. It might be difficult to choose between gelato classics—like bacio (chocolate-hazelnut) and stracciatella (vanilla with chocolate drizzle)—and refreshing dairy-free sorbetto in a medley of bright flavors like lemon, mango, raspberry and green apple … but these are the kinds of hard choices we’re willing to make.

FURTHER FOODIE FAVES

+ Red Hot Chilli Pepper: Indo-Chinese cuisine with a trendy red-and-black dining room.
+ Town: West Coast wines, wood-fired rotisserie chicken and tender steaks. 
+ Isarn Garden Thai Cuisine: Easygoing Thai restaurant serving standout stir-fries, soups and curries.
+ Johnston’s Saltbox: New American fare with a sprawling outdoor patio.
+ Mints & Honey San Carlos: Creative brunch offerings along with coffee and milk tea.
+ The Refuge: Renowned for its hand-carved pastrami sandwiches.

Photo: Courtesy of Irene Searles

Imbibe

At the end of your long day, settle in for a drink at one of San Carlos’ watering holes. A great city for hopheads, find exceptional in-house beers at Devil’s Canyon Brewing Company, Blue Oak Brewing Company and Hapa’s Brewing. Hoping to turn it into a crawl? Check out the 24 rotating taps and nitrogen-dispensed beers at Ale Arsenal, then raise a glass of Guinness to toast the Irish over at Molly O’s.

If you prefer pinots over IPAs, Domenico Winery is the place for you. Within, you’ll find sophistication in a warehouse space with funky chandeliers and string lights. Stop in for a wine tasting or opt for pizza, pasta and panini at the on-site restaurant Osteria (open Wednesday through Sunday). Decorated to evoke a street cafe in post-war Italy, Osteria boasts an open-view kitchen, burnished concrete walls, hanging plants and pendant lights.

For a one-of-a-kind experience, Auto Vino can’t be beat. This venture is what happens when you unite the guy behind Woodside Vineyards, an Italian sports car aficionado and a restauranteur. A storage facility for luxury, rare vintage and exotic cars, it also offers tastings, wood-fired pizza and tri-tip sandwiches on the weekends. What’s more luxurious than having your glass of cabernet in the presence of a Cadillac?

By car, by foot or by air, the city of San Carlos may be small but it has plenty to offer the adventurous day tripper.

go to town – thesanfranciscopeninsula.com

Diary of a Dog: Bella

Curious about the life of an ex-racer? I’m Bella, a lanky three-year-old greyhound, and while I may have retired from tearing around the dog track due to a foot injury, I still can move pretty fast. These days, I satisfy my need for speed on the agility training course at Zoom Room in Belmont. With help from Barbara and Stu at the Golden State Greyhound rescue organization, I left dog racing over a year ago and moved to Redwood City, where Greg, Nicole and their son Dylan welcomed me into the family. They don’t seem to mind taking me on fast-paced walks or clearing a path for my in-house zoomies. When I’m not on the go-go-go, I’m a big snuggler. Greg and Nicole always make room for me in bed when they’re watching TV. I have to confess, I don’t much care what show is on, as long as I get to satisfy my inner lovebug. I offer up my milkshake-white tummy for a good belly rub. When I want to get off my feet, I’m happy to clamber into the car for a ride, looking all around and sniffing the air with a big smile on my face. If I’m lucky, the car will take me and my family to Half Moon Bay, where I race along the beach, jumping and frolicking in the surf.

Calling All Dogs: If you've got quirky habits or a funny tale (or tail) to share, email your story to hello@punchmonthly.com for a chance to share a page from your Diary of a Dog in PUNCH.

Perfect Shot: Gilded Harbor

Photographer Gino De Grandis always seems to be in the right place at the right time. At Pillar Point Harbor in Half Moon Bay, a thicket of docked boats bristling with bare masts is drenched in a lustrous honey-colored haze. “The golden light was really unique that day,” says Gino, who was there to take a couple’s anniversary photos.

Image by Gino De Grandis / luiphotography.com

Calling all Shutterbugs: If you’ve captured a unique perspective of the Peninsula, we’d love to see your Perfect Shot. Email us at hello@punchmonthly.com to be considered for publication.

Rodeo Realtor

Words by Jennifer Jory

Bursting out of the chute into the rodeo arena, bronc rider Enzo Costantini has eight seconds to harness the mental and physical training necessary to stay on his horse. Risky? Perhaps. “There are people who box, race cars and jump out of planes,” he points out. “You pick what you are most comfortable with. I developed a comfort around horses.”

Enzo compares riding a bucking horse to syncing up with a dance partner. “The adrenaline running through you is very empowering,” he relates. “You are one with the animal and if your timing is off … that’s how you end up in the dirt.”

A self-described suit-and-tie guy by day and Wrangler jeans guy by night, Enzo strives to balance his passion for rodeo with his day job as a real estate agent, working at the Compass Woodside office. “If I can hold a listing open in the morning and there is a rodeo close by that night, then that is the best weekend I have ever had,” he says with a smile.

Growing up in the equestrian community of Woodside, Enzo enjoyed a formative outdoor life on the Peninsula. He spent summers at his father’s family farm in northern Italy. “My heritage and being involved with the animals on the farm in Italy every summer influenced me,” he says. His exposure to the rodeo life came at a young age, traveling with his family to events throughout California where his sister would sing the national anthem. Enzo remembers thinking, “I know I can find my way to the back of the chute somehow.”

The 29-year-old’s rodeo dreams became a reality this year when he competed as a semi-professional bronc rider, one of the most difficult events. “I have a window of youth here and I might as well do what I have always been curious about,” Enzo notes. Initially, he considered competing in team roping events, but soon took the plunge as a contestant in saddle bronc riding (as opposed to the bareback version of the event).

A sport that dates back to the Old West, bronc riding originated with cowboys challenging each other to see who could mount an unbroken horse, hanging on for dear life before getting bucked off its back. As part of his pre-rodeo routine, Enzo finds out what horse he is slated to ride, walks over to where it’s penned up and tries to connect with it. “I am looking at the horse and trying to get right with that animal,” he explains. “You don’t want to struggle and fight against each other.”

To stay in shape and endure the strenuous requirements of bronc riding, Enzo maintains a strict regime when it comes to diet and exercise. “You can’t hit the ground that hard after being on the couch for weeks at a time,” he observes. So he works out daily, sticks to a vegetable-centric Mediterranean diet and goes to bed early. “I got a late start in this sport,” Enzo admits. “What is going to keep me in this longer is my discipline, diet and motivation. I am Italian, so it is easy to go off the rails with meals.”

Enzo trains at the Gilroy ranch of his mentor, saddle bronc champion and financial consultant George Veater. “I have taken a lot of notes from him,” he says. ”He is a big part of my story, as it’s not typical for guys in business to also be in the rodeo.” When he’s not practicing at the Veater Ranch, Enzo trains on a barrel with springs in his backyard, gaining the repetition and muscle memory he needs. “It simulates what you need to do in the arena on horseback when your second, third and fourth instincts need to kick in,” he reveals. “It is a bit of a blur out there.”

Locally, Enzo enjoys riding with the Mounted Patrol, a Woodside horse club started during World War II when San Mateo County coastal horsemen were deputized to keep a look out for enemy warships. “I get to hear a lot of stories from guys older than me,” he reflects. “You are never going to stop learning from experienced horsemen. I recently started bringing a new, younger wave of guys to mix with the older group.”

Enzo benefits from a strong support network of family and friends who travel with him to rodeos. One of his strongest supporters is fiancée McKenna Schott, whom he plans to marry this November at Saints Peter and Paul Church in San Francisco. The couple first met while attending Woodside High and have been together ever since. While he promised to limit the number of rodeos he competes in before the wedding, Enzo looks forward to riding in the California Cowboys Professional Rodeo Association finals this autumn in Red Bluff, California.

For Enzo, the discipline of bronc riding translates into other aspects of his life. “If I am able to open myself up and be as vulnerable as I am in that arena,” he says, “there is nothing that can stop me from being successful in other parts of my life.”

Landmark: Leon the Giraffe

Words by Dylan Lanier

Leon the Giraffe is more than a statue—to the residents of San Mateo, he’s one of their own. Internationally renowned sculptor Albert Guibara gifted Leon to the city in 1978, and this genial giraffe has brightened people’s days with his whimsical presence in Central Park ever since. To bring Leon to life, Albert constructed the 15-foot-tall, 800-pound figure out of brass, copper and steel in his Burlingame studio. He spent weeks studying giraffes at the San Francisco Zoo and gained enthusiastic permission for the project from the mayor of San Mateo.

Albert named Leon after his father, whose toy store inspired many of Albert’s pieces. The sculptor’s father turned 80 around the time Leon the Giraffe was installed, so as the statue was lowered into place at the park, local families gathered to celebrate with balloons, cake and a chorus of “Happy Birthday.” Leon became an instant icon in the San Mateo community as he watched over the park’s many activities, from playdates and rec sports to music festivals and movie nights. And while Leon rules his Central Park residence, Albert’s other sculptures can be found elsewhere in the city and around the world, nearly all of them made of bronze. Much like Leon, Albert’s other works of art are personal, imaginative and uplifting. So while the world can sometimes be a hectic place, Leon the Giraffe offers his quiet, steady presence as a reminder of the singular power of just standing still.

Ye Olde London

Words by Johanna Harlow

Keen on visiting Victorian London, but can’t afford the plane ticket or the time machine? Not a problem. Traveling back to the era of toshers, telegraphs and top hats is only a short drive away. At The Great Dickens Christmas Fair—an entire little London erected within Daly City’s Cow Palace each winter—you’ll discover seven “neighborhoods” of lamplit shops, eateries, pubs, music halls and theaters to explore.

In celebration of the fair’s 40th anniversary, it’s expanded to include an upper hall. That “allows us to transition from the 21st century to the 19th century of the fair,” says executive producer Kevin Patterson, who oversees the event alongside his wife Leslie. “So you get out of your horseless carriage in the parking lot and you enter Victoria Station. You can even ride a steam train this year!”

Cover photo: Courtesy of Denise Lamott / Photo: Courtesy of Rich Yee

But what’s a world without people? A small army of actors populate the fair, portraying all strata of society from sooty chimney sweeps to the regal Queen Victoria. Beyond riffraff and royalty, visitors encounter characters fresh off the pages of Charles Dickens’ novels. You’ll find plucky Tiny Tim and scowling Scrooge—and get to interact with them, too. The immersive nature of the experience means that visitors are also players on this 143,000-foot stage. “It’s a two-way street,” says Kevin. “The audience comes in and adds their piece.” In fact, it’s often difficult to discern actor from attendee since quite a few diehards come dressed in full Victorian regalia.

Kevin doesn’t hesitate to name his favorite character at the fair: “The Spirit of Christmas Present,” from A Christmas Carol. “He reminds me of both Falstaff and Bacchus. He is the embodiment of conviviality!” Both his parents embodied this spirit in spades.


Photo: Courtesy of Zoart Photo

Kevin was born to “ambitious theater people,” Ron and Phyllis, who not only founded the Dickens Fair, but also produced the first Renaissance fair in the U.S. They “were actively attempting to recreate history, but doing it with a wink,” Kevin describes. Both had big personalities. Phyllis gleefully answered to the role of “Chief Instigator.” And a friend of Ron’s described him as “simultaneously shrewd, lewd, elegant, exuberant, funny, touching, mule-stubborn, refined, bawdy, wildly creative, exasperating and lovable—all within the same damn minute.”

When they hosted the first Dickens Fair in San Francisco’s old Anchor Works warehouse in 1970, Kevin was 10. “My parents put me in the costume of a street urchin,” he recalls. “I had this theatrical world to run around in.” Those early years he performed alongside wicked Mr. Fagin, an Oliver Twist villain who runs a pickpocketing operation. “We were able to really pick pockets,” Kevin reminisces. “We’d hand them off to Mr. Fagin on stage.” The actor would hold up the pilfered items for sheepish audience members to come collect. “We don’t do that particular bit anymore,” he chuckles.


Photo: Courtesy of Johanna Harlow

Kevin continues to dust off old memories, recalling when he graduated from pickpocket to peeler as a tall, skinny, 17-year-old in a police constable costume, “wearing a Bobby’s hat with hair down to my shoulders!” But he also remembers when the fair got canceled when the 1989 Loma Prieta earthquake damaged Pier 45, their venue that year. “We were a week away from having people on ladders,” he shivers. The following year—referred to as the Freezer Fair of 1990—wasn’t much better. “It happened to be the coldest winter in generations,” Kevin says, and the Cal Expo venue had to be evacuated due to frozen and breaking fire sprinklers. After that, the fair went dark for a time.

“My wife and I brought it back from mothballs because so many people would tell us that they missed it,” Kevin says. From 2000 to the present, they’ve hosted at the Cow Palace, which allows them on-site storage (a good thing, since moving all the sets and decorations would require 24 semi trucks). A diligent crew of world builders sets up and tears down each season. “The ‘many hands’ approach,” Kevin quips. “They put their heart and their art into it!”


Photo: Courtesy of Johanna Harlow

A lot of thought goes into keeping the modern world out of this immersive 19th-century experience. There are no windows with glimpses of the outside world. Theater curtains transition from one neighborhood to the next, subconsciously making guests feel like they’re a “part of the show.” All the food and craft vendors must keep to the Victorian theme. And if you bring out your smartphone, the characters will puzzle over your strange glowing rectangle. “They would not know anything about such whirligigs and doodads,” Kevin chuckles.

A recent expansion outside the Dickens universe includes the Jekyll and Hyde pub crawl. For an additional fee, guests wander through the five pubs around town seeking a concoction that will cure poor Dr. Jekyll of his violent alter ego. But “to think like a madman, you may have to drink like one.” For the last three years, Sherlock Holmes has also taken up residence at the fair and is seeking sharp-witted amateur sleuths to help hunt down clues around London for his latest mystery. If you help him catch the culprit, you might just earn yourself a key and an open invitation to 221B Baker Street. “Every year there is a new puzzle to solve—a new Sherlock case to crack,” Kevin says.

Photo: Courtesy of Johanna Harlow

So come wander the Dickens Fair’s winding lanes. Learn to waltz at Fezziwig’s dance hall and brave the sketchier neighborhoods where the disreputable lurk. Munch on roasted chestnuts, cheer on the can-can dancers at Mad Sal’s and sing shanties with rum-swilling sailors at the London Docks. “Come and play!” Kevin invites.

BY THE NUMBERS
+ 3-week setup
+ 6 stages
+ 14,000 participants
+ 129 buildings
+ 2,000 light fixtures
+ 12,000 feet of cables
+ 36 boxes of fake snow
+ 800 feet of garlands
+ 11 Christmas Eves

Illustration: Courtesy of Don Carson Creative

yuletide spirit – dickensfair.com

The Beat on Your Eats: Pie Places

Pies that are worth the dough.

shampa’s pies

Pacifica

Just a block from the ocean and an eight-minute walk from the Pacifica Municipal Pier is Shampa’s, a humble shop with big-personality pies. They go the extra mile here, spicing up pecan pies with a splash of bourbon, elevating the chocolate cream with Guittard semisweet dark chocolate and embellishing lemon chess pies with a strawberry garnish. The organic “sugar-pie” pumpkin pie, a seasonal favorite, is only offered a few months out of the year and combines locally-sourced pumpkins with a tantalizing spice blend of cinnamon and nutmeg. Shampa’s also has a wholly unique ginger-sweet potato option that will live on in your memory. Talk about pie-oneers. 1625 Palmetto Avenue. Open Wednesday through Sunday.

the creamery

Palo Alto

Everyone knows that diners serve the best pie. It’s certainly true of The Creamery, a staple in downtown Palo Alto since 1923. This slice of Americana with its ruby-red booth seats and checkered floor is the real deal. The reigning favorite here is the ample apple with lofty pie shell domes blanketing four pounds of Granny Smiths. But you can also find pumpkin, cream, blueberry, cherry, chocolate and pecan flavors as well. The Creamery’s pies end up on many a Thanksgiving table, and the diner’s team peels roughly 45 cases of apples by hand every November so locals can celebrate the season in style. 566 Emerson Street. Open daily.

pie ranch

Pescadero

Pull off of Highway 1 at this picturesque farmstand and you’re bound to leave with an armful of tasty pies. Pie Ranch teams up with Santa Cruz’s Companion Bakeshop to produce pies packed with seasonal local ingredients from Coastside farms. This fall, find rich, satisfying pumpkin pie made with squash from Brisa Ranch in Pescadero, one of Pie Ranch’s many partners in sustainable farming practices. And if you’re not a fan of pumpkin, have no fear. Just head for one of the custard pies, available year-round, in decadent flavors like pecan, walnut and chocolate chess. 2080 Highway 1. Closed Tuesday.

Q&A: Brian Chancellor

Neighborly real estate agent relays his property pet peeve, travel escapades and facing down a hairy purse-snatcher.

What drew you to real estate?
I was first exposed at the age of 12 when my mom started in the business. I would overhear her conversations with clients while doing my homework and had lots of questions.

As a kid, did you imagine your dream home?
I always wanted to build one—and did, with my wife, Nana.

What’s the quirkiest complaint you’ve heard about a home? Any ghosts?
Can’t kiss and tell.

What’s your biggest home-related pet peeve?
Open toilet seats … Come on, people!

What always surprises people about the home buying process?
How intricate it is. Once buyers are well informed about the difference between good and bad quality, and the nuances of what brings value, they feel relieved and empowered being in-the-know. They often start eliminating homes that they previously would have been wowed by.

If you could pick a superpower, what would it be?
Definitely to fly. I am intrigued by the squirrel wingsuits, but don’t have the nerve.

Tell us about being an exchange student in Italy?
Studying abroad for an entire school year while at UC San Diego was a life-changer for which I am forever grateful! All the buddies, both Italian and American, sobbed when it was time to go home and many are among my closest friends to this day.

What do you consider a must-do on your bucket list?
Did it! A safari in Africa. Sabi Sabi Lodge next to Kruger National Park was incredible. I went out twice a day for two weeks and was ready for more.

What’s one of the riskiest things you’ve ever done?
I contested a baboon who was stealing a woman’s purse at the Cape of Good Hope Old Lighthouse in South Africa. It ended up in a standoff with just the two of us (everyone else ran). I played it cool, but I was petrified. My wife is still mad that I initiated it. When we got home, I secretly looked up videos about baboons—only to learn it could have ripped my arm off.

What age would you choose to be again and why?
None. Every year is a blessing! That’s not to be cliché. Anyone who has experienced great loss knows what I mean, but I hate it when people complain about getting older.

What’s a song you can listen to again and again?
Maxwell’s “Sumthin’ Sumthin’.”

How did you get started mentoring young African-American men in East Palo Alto?
It has been close to 30 years since I was a Reading Buddy at Beechwood School, and the young guys and I are still in touch. The most satisfying thing is that they are great, enthusiastic dads today.

The Beat on Your Eats: German & Austrian Bites

Celebrate Oktoberfest at these German and Austrian eateries.

Wursthall
San Mateo

Willkommen to Wursthall! With sausages made in-house, you’ll find superb choices ranging from the classic bier bratwurst to a more adventurous chorizo verde. If you can take the heat, introduce yourself to the Hot Italian, a spicy pork sausage with fennel and red pepper flakes topped with sweet-and-sour peppers, onions and a spicy brown mustard. Pair your wurst with sides like the thrice-fried potatoes or the bacon and sesame kraut. As for drink? Fill your stein with a crisp lager or go hog wild with pig-themed cocktails like the Porco Loco, Pig in Paradise or the Swine & Dine. If you’re the designated driver, you can always prost with a pretzel. 310 Baldwin Avenue. Closed Monday.

Ludwig’s Biergarten
Mountain View

Settle in at a communal table at Ludwig’s and soak up a traditional beer garden experience. Choose from a globe-spanning array of premium draft beers, including local brews from Barebottle and Del Cielo. Bittersweet Jäegermeister finds its way into several of the cocktails—Jäeger-Rita, anyone?—or opt for a fruity, beer-based radler or Almdudler, an alcohol-free Austrian herbal soda. Chef Nicole Jacobi calls upon her family recipes when cooking up authentic German dishes like jägerschnitzel with housemade spätzle and schweinshaxe (pork knuckle) in beer sauce. For a sweet finish, try the apple strudel spiked with golden raisins and brandy, topped with vanilla sauce. 383 Castro Street. Closed Monday.

Naschmarkt
Palo Alto

Craving schnitzel? Naschmarkt, named after a popular open-air produce market in Vienna, offers upscale Austrian cuisine, with more than one version of this iconic dish. The jägerschnitzel, braised in a luscious mushroom cream sauce and served with spätzle, broccolini and garlic confit, is a favorite. But the Wiener schnitzel, accompanied by a tart lingonberry sauce, Austrian potato salad and crispy parsley, comes in a close second. You’ll be doing yourself a disservice if you don’t order dessert. Try a Viennese classic, the Sacher torte: a rich chocolate cake brightened by apricot preserves and whipped cream. 2323 Birch Street. Closed Monday.

Diary of a Dog: Finch

Hear, hear! I’m Finch, a seven-year-old terrier mix, and I’ll bet that you’re looking at my amazing ears. Some people are self-conscious about having big ears, but I think mine are my best feature. Can a small-eared dog hear a banana being peeled from the other side of the house? I don’t think so! And I would hate to miss out on a delicious banana. Granted, my ears are big compared to the rest of me. Even my name is a reflection of my diminutive stature. When Ben and Kitty adopted me as a puppy, they wanted to name me Atticus, after the hero in Ben’s favorite movie, To Kill a Mockingbird. But they decided that it was too big of a name for such a little fellow and opted for the character’s shorter last name. Being on the smaller side is probably why I’ve gotten so good at walking on my hind legs. Sometimes I need a higher vantage point—like when there’s a deer in the vicinity and I want to get a good long look. I also pop up on two legs so I can stand between Jim and Kitty for a group hug in our San Mateo kitchen every morning. But those aren’t my only talents! I also have a fine voice. Kitty likes to sing, and it didn’t take me long to realize that she needs backup. When she breaks into song, I throw back my head and howl along.

Calling All Dogs: If you've got quirky habits or a funny tale (or tail) to share, email your story to hello@punchmonthly.com for a chance to share a page from your Diary of a Dog in PUNCH.

Q&A: Pietro Parravano the Fisherman

The Half Moon Bay fisherman and former science teacher at Woodside Priory shares how the siren song of the sea led him to his life’s work.

How did you go from teaching science to commercial fishing?
I was on a park bench in Sausalito grading exams when I noticed herring boats. They dropped anchor after delivering their catch and were preparing for breakfast. I saw loaves of bread, bottles of wine and filets of fish. That sparked my curiosity about what they do.

Did other fishermen offer you encouragement?
They suggested that I should not become a commercial fisherman: the regulations were becoming more overarching and restrictive, and it’s difficult to be accepted by the fleet. They frown on newcomers.

What was your very first sale?
Barbara’s Fish Trap—I sold them 100 pounds of rockfish for $50. I was elated to have that cash. After that, I sold fish to Flea Street Café.

Do you have a favorite spot?
During salmon season, I travel along the coast. At night, instead of returning home, there are anchorages, areas somewhat protected from the elements. One is Fort Ross, north of Bodega Bay. Another favorite is tucked behind Pigeon Point lighthouse. It’s like ocean camping.

Can you share any advice for the next generation?
Learn the skills and experience from well-seasoned commercial fishermen. Their knowledge is not found in books or in schools.

What’s the best way to support local fisheries?
Eat more fish that are harvested using sustainable methods.

What are some things you’ve done to promote sustainability?
In 1997, I co-founded an international fishing association that advocated for using fishing methods that are not harmful to the ocean’s ecosystems, and in 2000, I was appointed to the Pew National Oceans Commission. In 2008, I was presented with an environmental achievement award by President George Bush for my work as an advocate for clean and healthy oceans.

What keeps you coming back for more?
Often, I look at the Pacific Ocean as a laboratory. It is the largest dynamic entity. My reward is having experienced this and shared the goodness of its bounty.

What’s the weirdest thing you’ve ever eaten?
My friend, a fellow commercial fisherman from Iceland, brought sheep testicles when he visited. You gotta try them!

Why did you decide to open a booth at farmers markets?
I grew up with that type of food shopping. When a friend suggested selling at the Palo Alto farmers market, my wife Joan and I pursued that opportunity. A couple of years after that, we started selling fish at the Menlo Park farmers market.

Favorite comment you’ve ever gotten?
“This fish is the best. What did you do to make this fish so fresh?”

Landmark: Holy Cross Cemetery

Words by Margaret Koenig

Partially obscured from view by the gnarled oak trees lining its perimeter, Holy Cross Cemetery is easy to overlook. The graveyard, located at the intersection of Santa Cruz and Avy avenues in Menlo Park, has hosted the dead since the 1860s, when it was a nonsectarian burial site. Acquired by the Church of the Nativity in 1883, it was named Holy Cross and consecrated as a Roman Catholic cemetery. It was originally landscaped by Michael Lynch, known for his work on parts of Stanford University and grand homes like the Timothy Hopkins estate. By the 1950s and 1960s the graveyard had fallen into disrepair, prompting its reconstruction by John Kiefer and Monsignor Edwin Kennedy, both of whom were later buried there.

Despite the ivy-draped chain link fence that grants the grounds a modicum of seclusion, the hum of street traffic permeates the air, intermingling with the cawing of nearby crows. The burial site, which contains over 6,200 recorded tombs, includes a poignant section reserved for children. A closer look at the older plots adorned with moss-covered statues reveals some of the Bay Area’s preeminent historical figures. There’s Elena Atherton Selby, daughter of town namesake Faxon Dean Atherton, and Juana Briones de Miranda, referred to as the “Founding Mother of San Francisco” for her role in the city’s development. Other notable inhabitants include Sheriff William Phillip McEvoy, who was shot while apprehending a murderer in 1895, and Jared Lawrence Rathbone, a U.S. Consul General to Paris who also fought in the Civil War for the Union Army. In October, the Menlo Park Historical Association hosts a guided tour of Holy Cross, which remains an active cemetery. It’s estimated that its grounds contain space for at least another century of burials, as up to 100 souls are laid to rest within its tranquil confines each year.

Perfect Shot: Whooo’s there?

Nature photographer Michael G. Pagano caught this wide-eyed fellow while traversing the grounds at Filoli in Woodside. “With its century-old oak trees and open meadows, I’m always fascinated by the array of wildlife that abound, such as black-tailed deer, acorn woodpeckers and wild turkeys,” he describes. On this particular day, he came upon two owls sharing a branch. “Believe me, I don’t know ‘whoo’ was more surprised—me or the owls!” Though one flew off, the other stuck around for Michael to admire. The great horned owl (also known as the tiger owl) is one of the largest in the Bay Area and can weigh up to four pounds.

Instagram: @paganografx

Calling all Shutterbugs: If you’ve captured a unique perspective of the Peninsula, we’d love to see your Perfect Shot. Email us at hello@punchmonthly.com to be considered for publication.

In Bloom

Words by Jennifer Jory

As local florist Aili Ice strolls through the San Francisco Flower Market, a wild artichoke with a blooming lavender center catches her eye. She spies a twisted dogwood branch and imagines how she can bring it to life with the artichoke and some violet-colored irises. “I see all the colors first and then I see what jumps out and inspires me,” she remarks.

Aili’s floral creations crafted in her Menlo Park studio are intended to bring beauty to spaces but also healing. And there’s a reason her work exudes a restorative quality. After an unexpected family loss in her early 20s, Aili answered a florist’s job posting without any previous experience. The opportunity became a pivotal moment in her life. “They gave me a vase and said make something,” Aili recalls. She got the job. “A chapter in my life came to a close and a new beginning started through finding the flower shop,” Aili shares. “They nurtured me and allowed me to grow. Then I learned the tricks of the trade.”

The healing art of flowers came full circle for Aili when she was asked to participate in a unique two-year clinical study at Stanford Hospital called The Gratitude Project, which measured how the gifting of flowers from doctors to patients would affect their recovery. The results of the study showed a very positive correlation. “Florals, nature, organic materials and anything that has a closeness to nature is all wellness,” explains Aili. “When you go out into the forest and see moss, you get heightened joy. It also sparks curiosity, dopamine and happiness.”

Fast-forward several years. Aili was practically running the floral shop when the owner asked if she would like to take over the accounts, and Aili Ice Designs was born. She worked around the clock, delivering weekly arrangements to businesses from dentist offices to venture capital firms.

“Anyone who wanted to enhance their space with natural materials,” she sums up. “If you walk into an office space for an interview and you look at a floral arrangement, it breaks the ice and puts you at ease. It might start a conversation with the receptionist and then you nail the job.”

With the support of her lifelong friend and operations manager Becky Medina, Aili offers a number of group workshops. She leads classes on the art of planter design, terrariums and succulents, to name a few. “It’s fun to watch someone say they are not creative—then uplifting them and watching them feel so empowered,” notes Aili with a smile.

A Peninsula native, Aili grew up in Redwood Shores and Foster City, graduating from San Mateo High. She went on to study art and art history at Cañada College, while working in stage production in San Francisco. It was around this time that Aili started to reevaluate her life when her mother passed away after a long battle with cancer. She decided to join her father and brother sailing down the coast of Mexico. Aili also sailed through the Panama Canal, where she found a sense of healing and inspiration. “On the Atlantic side, there were clusters of little islands and school children getting on boats to go to school,” she says, adding that she also found herself reinvigorated by the area’s art galleries. “Seeing vibrant cultures and unique lifestyles really electrified my senses.” She immersed herself in the culture, traveling through fishing villages and taking long rides on antiquated buses.

Those experiences, along with earlier travels to Hawaii, Hong Kong, Costa Rica and Taiwan, served as inspiration for Aili’s floral arrangements. She enjoys the challenge of bringing a client’s vision to life, but admits there are days when the tight timeframe and scale of a project can be intense. “The grandness of an arrangement such as a giant, 15-foot foliage arch made of fall leaves built in two hours can really stretch us,” she acknowledges. “Recently, a last-minute request at an Atherton garden party for floating umbrella arrangements for a pool turned out to be really fun. Everyone loved the whimsical look.”

Aili's design for a Bouquets to Art event at San Francisco's De Young Museum was inspired by the demure expression of Mrs. John Rogers--the faint blush of her cheek evoked by the pink tulips, while dark flowers call out the burgundy background and gold vases reflect the painting's gilded frame.

From an artistic perspective, Aili says she looks forward to the Bouquets to Art event at San Francisco’s Legion of Honor Museum every year. “This is something I do for myself,” she discloses. “I love the beautiful challenge of choosing a painting and interpreting it through florals and organic materials. If I can bring that same feeling through in my work, it is such a joy. To be among my colleagues who get to express themselves this way and show it to the masses is special.”

Throughout her professional journey, Aili says she has been inspired by the memory of her mother. “I believe my mother led me to a life of art, and influenced and molded me with her love for flowers and gardening,” concludes Aili. “Working with organic things helps you feel close to nature and it is good for the soul.”

pretty petals – ailiicedesigns.com

Getaway: Monarch Mania

Words by Johanna Harlow

It’s a dark and stormy night in Pacific Grove. I’m sitting in my car as rain beats down on the windshield, my finger ready on my umbrella’s push button, my other hand on the door handle. Ready… and… GO! Flinging myself from the car and releasing my umbrella in one fluid motion, I make a mad dash for Seasons by-the-Sea, an art gallery around the corner. As I reach the safety of the awning and duck indoors, I’m enveloped in warmth and light. Paintings, small bites, wine and a smiling gallerist are here to greet me.

On this trip to the Monterey coast, I’d anticipated water from the sea, not the sky, along with a multitude of monarchs. Thousands of them migrate to the region every year, inspiring the nickname “Butterfly Town.” When I found that my trip coincided with the town’s popular First Friday event, I was eager to check out its art and music scene. As I spend the next hour ducking in and out of snug, brightly lit galleries, I find that rather than putting a damper on things, the wild weather adds to an atmospheric evening, making this series of hideouts exceptionally cozy. The rain drumming on windows and skylights makes me feel like I’ve gotten away with something.

Though not open late for First Fridays, Trotter Galleries is an inviting space featuring an extensive collection of pieces by early California artists. / Photo: Courtesy of Terry Trotter

After visits to Pacific Grove Art Center, Studio 171, The Yellow Mustard Seed and Artisanna Gallery, I find my way to Wild Fish. It’s a low-lit restaurant where the menu includes the name of the sea captain and the stretch of coast where each special was caught. Though there’s usually a jazz quartet performing outside on Fridays and Saturdays, tonight Ella Fitzgerald serenades me from the speakers. As I dine on an inventive ceviche pairing white fish with tangerines, creamy avocado and spice that lingers on my lips, I chat with the sweet couple who own the place. They tell me how they came here from England on a whim, and of the B&B and record shop they owned back in the U.K. Tonight, they steer me toward a main course of sablefish and a bouillabaisse with piping hot broth to stave off the chill.

My one regret is that I don’t get to see the rockin’ proprietor at Phill’s Barber Shop down the street. In better weather, Phill would be riffing on his electric guitar amid the barber chairs and salon mirrors.

Photo: Courtesy of Matt Weir - Kirkland Collection

When I’m ready to call it a night, my hotel is only a two-minute drive from downtown. Seven Gables Inn, a sprawling Victorian painted a cheery yellow, greets me like a ray of sunshine. My room has a chandelier with a shower of crystals above big bay windows. In the morning light, I find a stunning view of Lovers Point outside. Brewing a cup of coffee, I station myself right beside it and watch the colorful dots of people moving across the cliffs and beach, while surfers bob in the bay. Every so often, a sleek seal skims along the surf.

But it’s time to go exploring. During a sunny patch in the day, I pop across the street to the Monterey Bay Coastal Trail, following it to the Harbor Seal Observation Area right beside the Monterey Bay Aquarium. On previous trips, I’ve hung out with the aquarium’s aquatic cast of 35,000-plus sea creatures, but today I’m content to watch these blubbery beauties as they galumph across the sand.

Ahi carpaccio from Wild Fish restaurant. / Photo: Courtesy of Wild Fish

Retracing my steps along the trail, I lunch at the California Seltzer Company beside Lovers Point, enjoying seaside views and a pizza topped with pesto, peppery arugula, fluffy dollops of burrata and generous chunks of tangy marinated artichokes from nearby Castroville (a town so closely associated with the crop that it boasts a 20-foot artichoke sculpture).

Dinner finds me at Mezzaluna Pasteria, an upscale Italian restaurant with red brick and candle-style chandeliers. Right from my first bite of focaccia with olive tapenade, I know it’s going to be hard to pace myself. Everything from the refreshing elderflower spritz to the plethora of pasta options to the intensely flavorful duck pate with house-made crostini is a delight. Somehow, I find room for a scoop of hazelnut gelato at the end of the night.

On my final day, I drop by the Pacific Grove Museum of Natural History to learn more about the native plants and animals as well as the local history of the Monterey Peninsula. Its newest hands-on exhibit, Wonder, is designed to look like a forest. But tucked among the realistically twisting trees, exposed roots and ferns are shells, a mounted insect collection and specimens under bell jars as well as whimsical Wonderland-esque details like bird cages, skeleton keys, looking glasses and gilded picture frames.

The taxidermy collection at the Bird Gallery is another highlight and I peek in at wide-eyed owls, jewel-hued hummingbirds and stately herons. After getting my fill of puffins and peregrine falcons, it’s time to visit the winged wanderers that drew me to Pacific Grove in the first place.

The Monarch Butterfly Sanctuary, off Lighthouse Avenue, seems a fitting finale for my trip. As I enter the grove, the wind whooshes through the cypress and eucalyptus trees, and thousands of wings quiver from the swaying branches. Though they look fragile, these resilient little butterflies have flitted across 2,000 miles on paper-thin wings to get here. From late October to early February, they’ll find safe harbor in this grove before making the long trek north. It’s time I do the same. So taking one last look at these wayfarers in orange and black, I head for home.

winged wonders – pacificgrove.org

FALL FORECAST

Prefer a rain-free trip? Visitors during the early fall are more likely to avoid Pacific Grove’s rainy season, which is typically at its wettest from December through March.

Andy and the Volcano

Words by Sheri Baer

On an ascent up the north side of Mount Shasta, Andy Calvert pauses to munch down a Clif Bar at 13,000 feet. Making small talk with the U.S. Forest Service climbing rangers accompanying him, he points over to a dome at the top of the Hotlum Glacier, a formation known for its treacherous gullies and crevasses. “Someday, I want to go get a piece of that,’” he casually remarks. The response: “There’s a pretty good snow bridge, we could just do it now.”

One “steep, icy and scary” rope belay later, Andy had his sample. “I felt like I was flying,” he recalls. “It was like I was flying out to get this rock and come back.” Certainly not a typical day on the job in Silicon Valley, but as a local scientist with the U.S. Geological Survey (USGS), Andy is charged with deciphering the eruptive history of volcanoes in order to predict future threats. “I have to get a rock sample from every lava flow I can get to,” he explains. “It’s probably 50-50 whether we’ll get a non-Mount St. Helens eruption in the Western U.S. in our lifetimes, but we should still be ready for it.”

Looking back, Andy credits Mount St. Helens’ catastrophic 1980 eruption with inspiring his eventual volcanic-rock strewn path. As a seventh grader living over 200 miles away in Moscow, Idaho, he vividly remembers what went down (or rather, up) on May 18. “It was a beautiful sunny day,” he recounts, “and then this cloud started coming over and it got as dark as the darkest night.”

ABOVE: Andy shows a photo of the 1980 eruption of Mount St. Helens (Photo: Annie Barnett) / COVER IMAGE: Andy (third from left) and team spent two weeks mapping and sampling Mount Shishaldin volcano on Unimak Island, Alaska. (Photo: Courtesy of Matt Loewen - USGS)

After the eruption, half an inch of ash blanketed the city, triggering the cancellation of the last three weeks of school. “That made volcanoes even more interesting,” Andy grins. “I knew something about geology before then, but that was what really taught me that the Earth is dynamic.”

Initially eyeing medical school as a Stanford University undergrad, Andy enrolled in a geology class recommended by a friend. “The class was at 8 o’clock in the morning, and I just couldn’t wait for it,” he recalls. “It was like falling in love.” Andy signed up for another class called Rocks and Minerals. “I thought, ‘Well, that sounds really boring, so if I like that too, I’ll be a geologist.’”

Metamorphic rock—gneiss, schist and slate. Smooth. Coarse. Shiny. Opaque. Utterly captivated, Andy followed his heart.

Andy at the USGS lab at Moffett Field in Mountain View. (Photo: Annie Barnett)

After earning bachelor’s and master’s degrees from Stanford, Andy completed his doctorate at UC Santa Barbara. As he was wrapping up his studies, he caught wind of an opening for a geochronologist with the USGS volcano hazards team based in Menlo Park and got the job. “Our group looks at volcanoes in a variety of different ways,” he clarifies. “I date rocks. My specialty is time. I provide the time context for eruptive behavior.”

Here’s why time matters: Volcanoes that have been active in the last 10,000 years can potentially wreak havoc again. Andy unfurls what looks like a paint-by-numbers map of Mount Shasta. “Each one of these is a discrete eruption or a series of eruptions,” he describes, gesturing to color splashes ranging from purple (older than 350,000 years) to oranges and reds (a specific eruption 10,700 years ago) to pink (“all younger than that”).

Andy describes the eruptive history of Harrat Rahat to members of the Saudi Geological Survey after a five-year study of the seismic and volcanic hazard to the holy city of Medina, Saudi Arabia. (Photo: Courtesy of Tom Sisson - USGS

Whether it’s Shasta, St. Helens, Lassen Peak, Hood or Rainier, tracking past behavior lays the foundation for creating long-term hazard assessments. “We educate people about what the mountain is capable of,” Andy summarizes. “What can happen and whether we should worry.”

Although his geologic focus is the Western U.S., Andy estimates he’s visited over 50 volcanoes in locales like New Zealand, Guatemala, Italy and Saudi Arabia. Any given day might find him on the top of a ridge or “slogging through some really terrible places.” His professional tool kit includes ice training, mountaineering skills, glacier travel, wilderness first aid, bear deterrence and “getting in and out of helicopters in pretty gnarly spots.”

Andy calls out his field work in Alaska as especially memorable. “I love being up high on these volcanoes,” he says. “You’re dropped off and then that big, smelly, noisy helicopter goes away and you’re left with quiet.”

Andy shows a draft map of Mount Shasta, where different colors visualize deposits from volcanic eruptions over thousands of years. (Photo: Annie Barnett)

Since Andy was hired by the USGS in 2001, he and his wife, Amy McLanahan, have lived in Palo Alto, Menlo Park, San Mateo and most recently, Belmont. Raising their family here (their son and daughter are now in their 20s) offered myriad opportunities to explore the Peninsula’s own unique geology —particularly on excursions to the coast. “We’re in a pretty amazing part of the world because we can drive over to Half Moon Bay and go from one huge tectonic plate, the North American Plate, onto the largest plate, the Pacific Plate,” observes Andy. “My kids get so sick of me saying, ‘Ooop! Crossing to the Pacific Plate!’”

During his five-year term as scientist-in-charge of the California Volcano Observatory, Andy helped oversee the USGS move from Menlo Park to Moffett Field in Mountain View. He’s currently diving back into research (including Mount Shasta mapping), where he still relies on the basic tools he first learned to use at Stanford: a hammer and a hand lens. However, Andy fully appreciates Moffett’s brand new lab and state-of-the-art technology. “We have equipment we use to measure the ages of rocks that’s pretty fancy,” he affirms. And what a way to calibrate accuracy: testing rocks from the 79 AD eruption of Mount Vesuvius. Nodding to a noble gas mass spectrometer, Andy breaks into a wide, schoolboy smile. “We took crystals from that eruption and ran them on that machine there and we got the right answer!”

All Aboard

Words by Andrea Gemmet

Sometimes, you want to go to a bar where everybody knows your name. And sometimes, you just want to meet some new people. Barrelhouse in Burlingame, a local favorite that pulls in a steady stream of out-of-towners, offers the best of both worlds to anyone seeking well-crafted cocktails in hip-yet-unpretentious surroundings.

Known for its charming downtown, Burlingame is also a major hub for hotels serving San Francisco International Airport. “People will pull up at 1AM who have just gotten off a flight and want something to drink,” says Barrelhouse co-owner Juan Loredo.

With its prime location across from Burlingame’s train station, Barrelhouse sees its fair share of Caltrain commuters and San Francisco Giants fans pre-gaming on the way to the ballpark. It’s also ideal for people who want the train to serve as their designated driver. “We’ve definitely participated in plenty of Caltrain bar crawls,” Juan shares. Open until 2AM, Barrelhouse sees everyone from post-wedding reception revelers to 21-year-olds celebrating a rite of passage.

Juan started out bartending with his friend Jose Natividad while they were students at San Jose State University. The pair created the Burlingame nightclub Vinyl Room, then opened Barrelhouse in 2011 after deciding that downtown needed a place that served great cocktails, Juan says. In 2021, they launched Persona, a subterranean cocktail bar in Lower Nob Hill. “You’d think San Francisco is not a sleepy city, but sometimes we’re busier in Burlingame than SF,” he confides.

 

Juan won’t cop to having a favorite drink—“All our cocktails are delicious”—but concedes that Barrelhouse regulars tend to love its twists on the classics. Take the Maverick, which spices up a negroni by infusing the Campari with lemongrass, kaffir lime leaves and cardamom.

Another crowd favorite is the Horse Trader’s Daughter, which blends Four Roses bourbon with Earl Grey tea, lavender, lemon, egg white and simple syrup. “It has a lot of depth to it, a lot of texture because of the egg white,” Juan reveals. The deep red Hibiscus Haze, mixed with lime, agave and reposado tequila, is poured over a towering rectangular ice cube, its intense flavor tempered as the ice slowly melts.

While he likes to switch things up, Juan says they’ve dialed back on making too many big menu changes. “We always do tweaks, but we have crowd favorites that we wouldn’t be able to pull off the menu because people would not be too happy about it,” he confesses. It doesn’t go unnoticed when the Frozé Spritz, a summertime Aperol-spiked drink that mixes rosé wine with Velvet Falernum and lemon, takes its seasonal hiatus. “It’s always nice to hear from people that they liked it and want it back.”

caltrain crawl

Don’t have a designated driver? The Peninsula is flush with a range of watering holes conveniently located near train stations. Pick one and make an evening of it, or gather some friends and combine several of these stops to craft a custom Caltrain-enabled bar crawl.

Barrelhouse, Burlingame
Looking for some grown-up Halloween fun? Barrelhouse is one of the stops on downtown Burlingame’s annual Halloween Costume Crawl, this year on Sunday, October 27. 305 California Drive. Open daily.
barrelhouseburlingame.com

Wunderbar, San Mateo
Tucked beneath a German restaurant, follow the white rabbit to this intimate basement speakeasy known for quintessential cocktails like the Manhattan, martini and French 75, as well as its inventive riffs on the classics, like the Ursa Major, Lost at Sea and Frog Prince. Free popcorn will keep you thirsty; heartier fare is available upstairs at Wursthall. Staying on theme, Wunderbar is reservation-only and groups of six or more will need to make special arrangements. 310½ Baldwin Avenue. Open Wednesday-Saturday. wunderbarsm.com

CRU Wine Bar, Redwood City
Find plenty of tempting treats to pair with the drinks at this sleekly rustic wine bar and bottle shop. Offerings range from pizza alla romana, charcuterie and small plates like gnocchi, eggplant parmigiana and pate de campagne. Sip artisan wines or buy new favorites by the bottle or case. On Thursdays, live jazz sets the mood for tasting flights with three pours from a single winery. If the fruit of the vine’s not your tipple of choice, there’s a good selection of beers and a handful of low-alcohol cocktails and non-alcoholic options. 900 B Middlefield Road. Open daily. cruredwoodcity.com

Barebottle Brew Co., Menlo Park
Serving up sours, hazy IPAs, kombucha and more, this brewery always has 20-30 of its beers on tap at its location in the buzzy Springline complex. Sample a few brews with a tasting flight, or opt for one of Barebottle’s wines, non-alcoholic housemade sodas or root beer. While bar snacks are basic—empanadas and pretzels—find more options at nearby Canteen, which will deliver your food. It’s a place where you can bring your crew for trivia night, unwind after work with colleagues or hang out with the whole family playing pinball and board games. 550 B Oak Grove Avenue. Open daily. barebottle.com

San Agus, Palo Alto
Tequilas and smoky mezcals are the highlight at this lively watering hole that also serves up Mexico City street food like tacos, quesabirria and ceviche. Try seasonal cocktails by the glass or the carafe, like the Mariposa Traicionera made with colorful butterfly pea-infused gin and lavender syrup. Try a 1-ounce pour from the botella del momento, featuring a different agave-based spirit every month. On weekends, the mata crudas menu features hangover relief like chilaquiles and mezcal bloody marys. 115 Hamilton Avenue. Open daily. sanagus.com

Cascal, Mountain View
This twist on the tapas bar fuses Spanish and Latin American cuisines. Sip seasonal cocktails and sherries, or choose from a variety of mojitos, margaritas and caipirinhas, plus sangria: red, white or sparkling with Spanish cava. Tuesday through Friday, nibble on fried olives, patatas bravas and panko-crusted shrimp during happy hour, and stick around for live music and dancing on Friday and Saturday nights. 400 Castro Street. Open Tuesday-Sunday. cascalmv.com

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