Words by Sheri Baer
A dollop of Kaluga Queen caviar holds court atop a vibrant glaze of ice, encircled by a crown of roasted poblano peppers, asparagus and snap peas. With a gentle tap, the spoon breaks through the delicate sheen to reveal a trove of allium cream, asparagus tops and double-shucked English peas.
As the eight-course tasting menu unfolds at L’Auberge Carmel’s Aubergine, each dish delivers on a promise. “Every element seems designed to delight,” describes the Michelin Guide in awarding one star to Aubergine. “Products of spectacular quality are prepared skillfully and painstakingly presented with an artistic eye.”
Given California’s reputation as an epicurean mecca, it’s not surprising that 66 restaurants statewide currently claim one-Michelin star status. What is remarkable is that two of the honorees reside blocks apart in Carmel-by-the-Sea, the quintessentially quaint one-square-mile village less than a two-hour drive from the San Francisco Peninsula.
With just 3,100 residents, this coastal enclave evokes fairytale cottages, art galleries and dog-friendly beaches. But Carmel’s culinary scene is heating up, arguably stoked by Aubergine’s award-winning stature, followed more recently by stellar newcomer Chez Noir.
Photography: Courtesy of Erin Ng / Cover Photography: Courtesy of Joseph Weaver
Carmel’s First Star: Aubergine
After earning accolades as chef de cuisine at Chicago’s renowned Charlie Trotter’s, Chef Justin Cogley decided he was ready to “get out of the city.” Maybe Colorado, he thought. “And then I saw this job opening for a chef,” he recounts. “I had no idea where it was. I looked up Carmel-by-the-Sea and was really intrigued that it was next to the ocean.”
Besides being coastside, the position offered the chance to put his personal stamp on a Relais & Châteaux property known for its old-world charm. In 2011, Chef Justin migrated west and set about transforming L’Auberge Carmel’s onsite fine-dining experience. “I was named Food and Wine’s Best New Chef in 2013, which was huge,” he reflects. “That really changed the direction of the whole restaurant.” As the buzz grew, so did Aubergine’s impassioned pursuit of a Michelin star—an honor bestowed in 2019 and retained ever since.
Photography: Courtesy of Bonjwing Lee
In this intimate setting—only nine tables in the main dining room, along with alfresco courtyard and private wine room seating—Chef Justin changes the tasting menu daily to reflect ultra-seasonal dishes and locally-sourced ingredients. Aubergine’s dramatic amuse-bouche opening tray, “Gifts from the Ocean,” features Monterey Abalone Farm’s slow-growing (and hand-fed) marine delicacy. “Years go into a single bite,” marvels Chef Justin.
With Aubergine anchoring Carmel-by-the-Sea’s culinary culture, Chef Justin is shooting for a second Michelin star, a designation currently held by only 12 California restaurants. “We’ll see what happens this year,” he says. “We’re all hopeful.”
Photography: Courtesy of Bonjwing Lee
Chez Noir Takes a Star
Less than a 10-minute walk from Aubergine, Chez Noir followed a very different path to Michelin recognition. “What Monique and I wanted to have is the restaurant that we always want to go to,” explains Chef Jonny Black. “It’s a really fun room, there’s good music playing, and the food is very serious but we’re not taking ourselves too seriously.”
With a pedigree from top restaurants, the husband-and-wife team assumed they’d open their own spot in a major market. But after falling under the enchantment of Carmel-by-the-Sea, they opted for a “romantic chef’s life” in this coastal hamlet abundant with fresh produce and seafood. “The most beautiful product, I think, in the world is within our fingertips,” observes Chef Jonny. “We’re creating a home for our family, and we’re creating a home for these incredible ingredients.”
That’s home in a literal sense, given that the Blacks live on the second floor of the Craftsman-style residence with Chez Noir’s intimate dining, bar and courtyard spaces below. Emphasizing hyper-local coastal California cuisine, the four-course tasting menu evolves with the seasons, spotlighting dishes like Monterey Bay abalone skewers, vermillion rockfish and Dungeness crab tortelloni.
Photography: Courtesy of Bonjwing Lee
After opening Chez Noir in October 2022, the couple received an unexpected invitation to California’s Michelin Guide awards the following July.
Commended for “spot-on sea bass and swoon-worthy abalone,” Chez Noir became Monterey County’s second restaurant to earn one Michelin star. Befitting a tight-knit coastal community, the Aubergine team showed up at Chez Noir with a magnum of champagne to toast the news. “Now that we’re here,” notes Chef Jonny, “we just have to do it every day and maintain the standard.”
Photography: Courtesy of Bonjwing Lee
Rooms with a View
What pairs well with award-winning cuisine? Exceptional views. And for that, Carmel Beach Hotel has every right to say, “Look at me!” This terraced cluster of historic bungalows sits just 100 steps off Carmel’s iconic stretch of sand. Opened in June 2023, Carmel Beach Hotel offers 26 guest rooms and suites, along with a spa and fitness studio, and an array of amenities like Victoria & Albert soaking tubs, private decks and fireplaces.
As L’Auberge Carmel’s new sister property, Carmel Beach Hotel also enjoys the golden touch of Chef Justin, who oversees Secoya Restaurant’s onsite and in-room dining program. Currently only available to guests, Secoya’s offerings include complimentary breakfast baskets, followed by an all-day menu of elevated seaside fare and snacks.
Being the closest hotel to Carmel Beach is certainly a draw, but at an easy mile or less from Chez Noir and Aubergine, the locale also maps nicely to an after-dinner stroll. Keep in mind, if Michelin star-grazing is in your plans, you’ll need to book your reservations well in advance.
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