Words by Johanna Harlow
A man of few words, Dino Tekdemir doesn’t make a big deal out of moving across the world to pursue restaurant work in the Bay Area. He’s matter-of-fact about leaving his family’s farm in the south of Turkey for an unknown place where he didn’t speak the language. “Starting from scratch, it can be challenging,” he says simply of his nine years spent squirreling away savings while working as a dishwasher, busser, server and finally manager in order to afford to open a restaurant of his own. “You learn everything from experience. You learn from the bottom.” He leaves it at that.
But it takes a special kind of tenacity to go from presiding over dirty dishes to a small restaurant empire. This Kurdish self-starter has been behind some of the Bay Area’s most beloved concepts—Anatolian Kitchen, Naschmarkt, Nemea Greek Taverna, Barbayani Greek Taverna and most recently, Portola Bistro—all in a 15-year span.
“I’m not tired!” Dino insists, sharing that he fully intends to create more eateries in the years to come. Where to next? “It all depends where the opportunity comes from,” he replies. “It all depends where Luck comes knocking on your door.”
To see where it all started, pay a visit to Anatolian Kitchen in Palo Alto. Dino’s firstborn might not have a minimalist-chic interior like Portola Bistro or the cool coastal class of Barbayani, but the space is made homey by reclaimed wood and rattan chairs. Enchanting and intimate, the restaurant’s crystal chandeliers glimmer in the low lighting. Table lamps warm the diners’ faces as they lean in for amiable conversation.
The dishes here are less flashy and more traditional, beloved staples ranging from kebabs to künefe, moussaka to muhammara. Dino notes that while Middle Eastern cuisine might be popular on the Peninsula these days, back in 2010, the food here really stood out. “There weren’t too many of those restaurants around,” he notes. Anatolian Kitchen moved from Birch Street to California Avenue in recent years, but it maintains its high standard. “We always keep the consistency. The service, the food, the quality and quantity are always the same,” Dino promises. “We never downgrade.”
Not sure what to order? The contrasting flavors of the appetizers elevate each other so it’s best to try more than just one. Accompany the cooling cacik (a dip of cucumbers, mint and yogurt) with muhammara (a dip of walnuts and bell pepper enhanced by pomegranate molasses). Perhaps add the earthy eggplant boosted by the zip of tomatoes and garlic. As for entrees, there’s a whole range of succulent kebabs, including exquisitely-seasoned kofta (made of ground beef and lamb) and adana chicken. If you saved room for dessert, consider the künefe—shredded filo dough and cheese sprinkled with pistachio and sweetened by honey—crispy on the outside and gooey on the inside.
“I know my vegetables. I know my food,” Dino declares, recalling the cows, chickens and sheep they raised as well as the produce they grew on his family’s farm. “Fresh, fresh, fresh!”
Beyond fantastic food, Dino insists on a “hands-on chef,” one who won’t hide in the kitchen. “He should go out and not be afraid to talk about his food,” Dino declares, stroking the salt and pepper stubble on his chin. “If guests have any questions, the chef’s right there, they can ask the chef.” He found this in the dedicated and driven chef Allen Isik, who has closely partnered with him to bring both Barbayani Greek Taverna and Portola Bistro to life. “He’s amazing—good vision and energy,” Dino says.
Dino has no shortage of drive himself. “If I have energy and time, I’ll do it,” he says. “I won’t say, ‘Oh, I’ll do it the next day. I’ll do it tomorrow.’” This applies not only to work but also to play. “My suitcase is always in the car, ready to go,” he says. “Sometimes I get in the car and go wherever the car takes me.” Most often, that’s to the beaches and pools of Carmel-by-the-Sea.
Despite the occasional get-away, Dino can typically be found on-site, welcoming his guests at the door. “My duty is in front and making sure everybody is good,” he says. “I want to see the same smile as they’re leaving.” He breaks into a grin himself. “They keep coming back.”