Words by Sheri Baer
It’s not the typical notepad you see on a hotel room desk. Instead of those sterile white sheets you’d use to jot down a reservation time or quick reminder, this decorative cream-colored paper explicitly invites pause and introspection: “My intention for today is …” At the storied resort known as El Encanto, set against the backdrop of the Santa Barbara hills with sweeping views to the Pacific, the raison d’être is filling in that blank. And any answer is the right one.
The Allure of The American Riviera
The same Highway 101 we use to traverse the Peninsula also leads—factoring in about a five-hour drive—to Santa Barbara. For many, this Central Coast gem is a familiar destination, known for Spanish-style architecture, laid-back beaches, buzzy restaurants and a world-class wine scene. Dubbed the “American Riviera” more than a century ago, Santa Barbara leans into the nickname, embracing its Mediterranean climate, red-tile roofs and gentle ocean breezes.
Cover Photo: Courtesy of Brian Chiorski / Photo: Courtesy of Chris Schuster
The quintessential Santa Barbara getaway evokes visits to State Street Promenade, Stearns Wharf and wine tasting in the Funk Zone. There’s a slew of family-friendly, swimmable beaches, along with hiking, kayaking and sailing. But in the Golden Age of Hollywood, celebrities like Clark Gable, Carole Lombard and Hedy Lamarr turned to Santa Barbara—and specifically, a property called El Encanto—for a different kind of escape. Above the hubbub of the city, they discovered a secluded hilltop haven.
Luxurious Escape
Nestled in the foothills of the Santa Ynez Mountains, the original craftsman structures here served as school housing, before being converted into a cottage-style resort in 1918. Over the years, “the Enchanted Place” evolved, weaving additional Spanish colonial-style bungalows into seven landscaped acres of gardens, while cultivating a reputation for serene privacy.
Today’s El Encanto, a Belmond Hotel, embodies a splurge-worthy hideaway steeped in wellness. After winding up the final picturesque bend, we are greeted with an offer of tropical iced tea with notes of wild roses.
Befittingly, the resort infuses the experience of an El Encanto stay with “seven touch points of tea”—distinctive blends ranging from welcome (arrival) to wake up (in-room), relax (spa) and replenish (fitness studio).
Photo: Courtesy of Macduff Everton
Simply walking the brick pathway to our bungalow foreshadows the restorative journey ahead. To our left, a fairytale pergola reveals basking turtles communing in a lily pond. On the right, Adirondack chairs and fire pits beckon from a sloping stretch of grass. We spot deep blue umbrellas around a zero-edge saltwater pool with the Channel Islands off in the distance. Beyond the pool deck, a stairway leads down to a state-of-the-art fitness studio, overlooking the chef’s garden, brimming with Italian basil, lavender and thyme.
And, at every turn, sensorial bursts of flora: eucalyptus, olive and lemon trees. Fragrant hydrangeas, jasmine and wisteria. I hear the sound of water cascading through intricate rockery as an intimate village of rooms, suites and bungalows emerges, seamlessly tucked into a botanical wonderland. (Gable and Lombard reportedly favored the Wishing Well cottage, nestled near its namesake fountain.) Although the historic property reflects Santa Barbara 1920s architecture, interiors read airy and spacious, with modern-day indulgences like marble tubs, heated stone floors and private terraces, along with luxe finishes and furnishings. To ensure a restful sleep, there’s a pillow menu, and the break of dawn cues a natural birdsong serenade.
Photo: Courtesy of Brian Chiorski
El Encanto Experiences
“My intention for today is …” With a gentle prompt, El Encanto drops all the bread crumbs for wellness but it’s up to guests to select their own path. Perhaps it’s staying on property, relaxing with a book on a garden terrace, indulging in a spa treatment, a sound bath meditation or therapeutic yoga.
Thoughtful touches elevate even the ordinary moments: the offer of refreshing frozen grapes while you’re lounging poolside, a chilled lavender-scented towel after a workout or hot chocolate and sweet nibbles in the lobby throughout the holiday season. We took advantage of the property’s complimentary e-bikes, winding our way past Old Mission Santa Barbara to explore downtown one day, and cycling up to Santa Barbara Botanic Garden on another to wander the towering redwoods and manzanitas. El Encanto also offers a selection of seasonal events and experiences, such as a customizable “Harmony of the Senses” day retreat, private painting sessions, holiday-themed workshops and curated winery tours.
Photo: Courtesy of Anais & Dax
Wine, Dine & High Tea
Santa Barbara is known for its vibrant culinary scene, and El Encanto plays its own contributing role. For light dining and handcrafted cocktails, we settle into comfy chairs in The Lounge, nibbling on white truffle fries, ahi tartar and a fig and prosciutto flatbread. On Thursdays, Gin & Jazz night takes over, as classic tipples and a trio of musicians conjure a speakeasy ambiance. With dramatic hillscape and ocean views, The Dining Room and Terrace offers elegant seating indoor or al fresco. The coastal California menu shifts with the season, highlighting local seafood and freshly picked herbs, lettuces and leeks from El Encanto’s own harvest.
As dusk falls, we relish each course, from burrata and salt-roasted peaches to local halibut with rock shrimp and cannellini beans. Under a canopy of twinkling lights and stars, we linger even longer, sweetly capping off the evening with butter pecan creme brulee and (Because who can decide?) a slice of Goleta lemon tart.
The Dining Room also plays host to El Encanto’s signature touch point: Afternoon Tea. The “Art of Afternooning,” as it’s known here, ritualistically unfolds over custom-blended infusions, savory bites, seasonal baked goods and decadent desserts. Forcing myself to look away from the three-tier visual feast before me, I make a point to scan the room. A honeymoon couple. A mother and daughter. A reunion of college roommates. What looks to be a milestone anniversary. Breaking off a piece of buttermilk scone, I peer out to the horizon line and breathe a contented sigh. Whatever the occasion, whether you’re staying as a guest or dining here, El Encanto entices with a sense of timeless tranquility. At least that’s the thought that occurs to me, right before I dip my knife into the ramekins of strawberry-basil jam and clotted cream.