Words by Johanna Harlow
What happens when you pair up a trailblazing chef with a culinary conservative? Macarena Restaurant’s paella pro Sergio Box is steeped in tradition, thanks to growing up around his family’s upscale restaurant in Jávea, Spain, while chef Toni Santanach prefers to push the envelope after mastering the art of elevated tapas in Barcelona’s vibrant food scene. “They have had to merge,” says owner Elizabeth Reviriego, who oversees Palo Alto’s newest upscale Spanish restaurant with her partner David Linares. Fortunately for Macarena, a little friendly back-and-forth has only elevated this kitchen’s culinary creations.
Macarena’s menu leans more classic than contemporary. “We’re trying to bring back dishes that were kind of lost in translation,” explains Elizabeth. “We want to bring back those dishes like casseroles, stews and dishes that require more time.” Their slow-cooked oxtail served with truffle mashed potatoes is a perfect example.
That said, there are exceptions to the rule. Take the potato-based churros bravos served with a savory sauce. “That’s his fault!” laughs Elizabeth, pointing at Toni. “We didn’t want that. We wanted the traditional patatas bravas, but he was like, ‘I know that you won’t let me bring all my innovative tapas from Spain, but just let me put one of the dishes on the menu.’ So we all agreed that he had to try it and test it out.” It has since become a fan favorite. “He’s very proud and happy that he was right in the end,” Elizabeth says, prompting a big grin from Toni. Sergio nods and concedes, “I like it now.”
The roasted calçots also have a unique spin. Typically served as whole baby leek stalks, Macarena cuts the vegetable into roasted cylinders and serves it with an unexpected hollandaise in addition to the requisite romesco sauce.
When asked about their favorite dishes on the menu, both chefs pick the other’s creations. “I’m enchanted with the octopus paella,” Toni says. Meanwhile, Sergio appreciates Toni’s heavenly cakes. “When I don’t see him, he eats my desserts,” Toni reproaches Sergio. The latter doesn’t even try to defend himself.
A trip to Macarena isn’t complete without experiencing Sergio’s paella prowess. Bomba rice, imported from Spain and immaculately cooked, is complemented with a choice of veggies, seafood or pork. Order the paella de pulpo and it arrives at your table with a lengthy octopus tentacle coiled seductively across a hulking pan, the rice sprinkled with cauliflower and bits of squid. Garlic aioli and lemon are served on the side to doctor the dish as you wish. “Rice is so beautiful and so enjoyable. It’s good with anything,” Sergio says, estimating that he’s made somewhere between 30,000 and 50,000 paellas during his lifetime.
The chefs’ differences are also their greatest strengths. “Sergio, whom we affectionately call ‘the artist,’ is incredibly creative and passionate about crafting our paellas and main dishes,” Elizabeth says. “It’s in Toni’s realm to balance it out, look for the logistics and try to fine-tune the ingredients …. It’s very hard to present a dish and make it consistent for a restaurant.” The result is delightful flavors cooked up in a smoothly running kitchen. “The combination is super necessary. They balance each other out!”
Macarena’s ambiance reflects its food in a union of old and new. The olive trees, large leafy plants and eye-catching wood partitions invoke traditional Andalusian patios. The grand, old-fashioned fireplace, velvety curtains and moody chiaroscuro paintings of fruit summon up Old World imagery. “Those vintage lamps were also a requirement for us,” Elizabeth says as she points them out. “We wanted to tap into those old living rooms in Spanish homes back in the 1940s and 1950s.”
Despite those vintage touches, the place undeniably has contemporary flair. From the colossal chandeliers, spiky and golden like huge heads of wheat, to the sleek, sophisticated bar, there’s nothing dusty about this decor. “We wanted some sort of urban feeling. A restaurant that could be in Madrid—or Barcelona, which is more cool and underground,” Elizabeth says.
There’s one area where both chefs are always in agreement: they’re big fans of each other’s work. “I like what others do better,” declares Sergio. Toni wholeheartedly agrees, adding, “I love your cooking, maybe because I didn’t make it.”