Words by Elaine Wu
For Dzu Nguyen, the general manager of Horsefeather in Palo Alto, running a restaurant was never part of his life plan. As a molecular biology major in college, Dzu spent much of his time working in a laboratory. “What drew me to the sciences was a curiosity about finding out how things work,” he recalls. “The goal was to go into research and biotechnology.” But, he admits, working in a lab was a bit isolating.
Dzu started working as a barista to earn some extra cash after class, and a friend suggested there might be more money in bartending. Surprisingly, he didn’t just enjoy working behind the bar, he fell in love with it. “I felt like there was this enjoyable challenge in engaging with people because it was so out of my comfort zone,” Dzu says enthusiastically. “I found I was naturally able to engage with others, and I loved the team dynamic. It was electrifying watching everyone work together for a common goal.”
In 2016, after working at a few bars and restaurants—including the Michelin-starred Mourad—Dzu landed at Horsefeather in San Francisco and managed its bar program. He started using his creative side, concocting craft cocktails for the menu. He did so well in his role that he was asked to take over as general manager just a year later. “Honestly, working in a lab translates well into managing a restaurant,” says Dzu. “It’s all about project management. I’m far more detail-oriented because of it and that helps, especially when there’s so much going on in the restaurant environment.”
These days, he is no longer working behind the bar, but Dzu’s versatility has served him and the restaurant well. As general manager, he’s developed a number of inventive drinks specifically for the newest Horsefeather location in Palo Alto’s Town and Country Village. His eyes light up when discussing all the elements of his favorite creation, Birds of a Feather, which is based on the classic Jungle Bird cocktail. “We use an artisan blood orange aperitif and make an in-house pineapple syrup, and also add in black cardamom to give it a little bit of smokiness,” Dzu excitedly describes. “It’s tropical and refreshing, but the back end is earthy. It’s got a lot of complexity and depth.”
Dzu says he’s enjoyed the challenge of coming up with low-proof beverages and mocktails for the menu. “We didn’t want to just slap something together and make it non-alcoholic,” he states. “I wanted these drinks to be purposely and thoughtfully designed.” In particular, he enjoys The Shorebird, made with zero-proof Aplos Calme, verjus, apple, sea salt and ginger-scallion oil. It’s inspired by Dzu’s affinity for adding an unexpected savory component to a refreshing cocktail. “A lot of drinks are sweet and fruity and cloying. But when I think of designing a citrusy cocktail, I want to make sure there’s a savory element because it whets your palate,” he explains. “It makes the flavor and sweetness pop.”
Despite being the second outpost for Horsefeather, the new location is not an afterthought. “Horsefeather Palo Alto has its own identity. We’re not a San Francisco joint coming into town,” Dzu says. “We bring neighborhood hospitality and an unfussy experience with great food and beverages.” The comfort food menu combines classic American favorites with multicultural influences, like the cochinita pibil tacos with braised pork, miso linguini topped with crispy nori, and fried chicken served with Sriracha honey, corn esquites and mac and cheese.
The food and beverage space has become Dzu’s new lab. And if you ask him, he has no regrets about the detour his career path has taken. “I took from science what I needed to learn. I’ll never not be grateful for that experience,” he says. “But I know my home is in running a restaurant and bar. When you see a guest’s face light up when you bring them a good drink and good food, you know you’ve succeeded. You never get tired of seeing that. That’s success.”