Words by Elaine Wu
Every aspect of Hurrica Restaurant in Redwood City, from the aquatic color scheme to the marine-themed artwork, the beautifully designed decor to the fresh local ingredients on their seasonal menu, has been carefully crafted and curated. So it’s surprising to hear that co-owner MeeSun Boice considers herself an accidental restaurateur. “I think I take on challenges in my career because it’s kind of like soul-searching. You find out who you really are and what you’re capable of,” she reflects.
MeeSun’s willingness to face a challenge may stem from her childhood. She was adopted from an orphanage in South Korea when she was eight and transported to Kansas. “People used to call me names and threaten me,” she recalls. “I didn’t see another Asian face for 10 years. But you can choose whether you want to be a victim of it. I learned that if I wanted something, I had to go out and get it for myself.”
After climbing the financial corporate ladder, then switching to the world of tech, she realized she was putting in too many hours at the office without enough to show for it. “I thought to myself, ‘If I’m going to spend this much time working on something, I need to do it for myself,’” she says.
A self-proclaimed foodie, MeeSun reached out to chef and restauranteur Parke Ulrich, a friend who had already seen success with his eateries Epic Steak and Waterbar in San Francisco. “I saw how hard he worked and I dined regularly at his restaurants. So we decided to build something together,” she says. After opening Mersea on Treasure Island in 2018, MeeSun and Parke started looking for another water-centric locale to open their second restaurant. Despite its out-of-the-way location, she fell in love with Redwood City’s Westpoint Harbor and its stunning views.
“Hurrica is a hidden gem because people don’t even know this marina exists. But when you get here, you see the boats, the water—it’s a small escape from the rest of the world,” MeeSun explains. “If you’re going to build something, you might as well build it in a location you love coming to yourself.”
Executive chef and partner Justin Baade’s creativity is on full display at Hurrica, filling the menu with dishes that are expertly prepared, minus the pretentiousness. “Hurrica feels unique, whether it’s the food or the space,” he says. “I want the service and the food to be elevated but I don’t want fine dining. I want there to be value but still plenty of style. We want it to be elegant but still comfortable.”
As the former chef de cuisine at Waterbar, Justin certainly has a passion for working with seafood, but he’s careful not to brand Hurrica as a seafood restaurant. Everything from the popular slow-roasted pork chop to the whole roasted dorade fish—deboned at the table—responds well to the open kitchen’s live-fire cooking.
“The hearth is central to our menu,” Justin explains. “When you cook over a fire, it imparts a flavor that you can’t get any other way. There’s no substitute. I’m constantly thinking of ways to use the fire.”
There’s no doubt that Hurrica is a sophisticated dining destination, with its beautiful interior, deftly executed dishes and eye-catching jellyfish tank. But its true appeal is in its approachable menu and warm, easy vibe. “It’s not just a restaurant. You’re coming into our home,” MeeSun says proudly. “You’re coming to have an experience. We built this place so you can leave happier than when you came.”
harbor views – hurrica.restaurant
Hurrica's Shellfish Chowder Serves 8 Ingredients 5 pounds fresh top neck or cherrystone clams ¼ cup white wine (sauvignon blanc is best) 6 cups clam juice 2 ounces unsalted butter 4 ounces bacon ½ cup small white onion, diced ¼ cup fennel bulbs, small dice ½ cup all-purpose flour ¼ cup celery, small dice 1 pound Yukon gold potatoes, peeled and medium dice 2 cups heavy cream 1 pound small shrimp 2 tablespoon minced chives Salt and pepper to taste Wash and purge the clams in ice water. Leave them sitting in water for 10-15 minutes to remove any sand. In a large pot, combine clams and white wine. Cover and cook over high heat for 2 minutes. Add clam juice and bring to a simmer. Remove clams from the pot as they open and let them cool. Strain the remaining liquid through a fine sieve to remove any bits of shell or sand and reserve. In the same pot, melt butter. Add bacon and cook over low heat until the fat is rendered. Remove bacon and reserve. Add the onion and fennel to the butter and bacon fat, and cook until soft. Add celery and flour, stirring to combine. Cook over low heat for 2 minutes, stirring frequently. Add potatoes and reserved liquid and bring to a simmer over low heat, stirring constantly. Remove clam meat from shells and slice into large pieces. Once the chowder comes to a simmer, add the shrimp and heavy cream and cook until shrimp are done. Add in the reserved clams, and season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve with a garnish of bacon and chives.