Words by Andrea Gemmet
The setting sun stains the clifftops surrounding Yosemite Falls with a terracotta glow as the moon hangs in the sky. After gazing to our heart’s content, my husband and I amble back through the meadow, pausing to take a family portrait for a pair of doting grandparents posing with mom, dad and new baby. On this January evening, they’re the only other people sharing the path with us.
You’ve probably heard the cautionary tales about Yosemite Valley in the summer—traffic jams, overflowing parking lots, shuttles filled to capacity—but in wintertime, California’s favorite national park returns to its idealized state: a peaceful getaway rather than an open-air mosh pit. The mountain air is just as invigorating in the off-season, dramatic landscapes and towering trees just as inspiring as they are when the weather’s warm.
My husband and I decided to recreate the trip we took back when our daughter was a Goldfish cracker-guzzling preschooler who dreamed of playing in snow. Convinced that our crumb-covered backseat would lure hungry bears, we parked at the Amtrak train station near Oakland’s Jack London Square and rode the rails to Merced, where we transferred to a waiting Yosemite Area Regional Transportation System (YARTS) bus. Without the stress of driving, we could relax as the road skirted the banks of the Merced River and followed its tumbling course up into the mountains.
Now, with our daughter away at college, the two of us got to spend all day exploring without having to schedule our activities around naptime. Even though our backseat is a whole lot cleaner these days, we still opted for a car-free adventure. Our YARTS bus driver, an outgoing New Englander, cheerfully pointed out the highlights as we rumbled toward the park: Bridal Veil Falls, Dog Rock, the Three Brothers, El Capitán (CAPPY-tan, if you’re from Boston) and Yosemite Falls.
We hopped off the bus at the Yosemite Valley Lodge and got settled into our second-floor room before strolling over to Lower Yosemite Falls before dinner. As we soaked in the scenery, the roaring water provided a soothing soundtrack while clouds grew rosy and the sun sank behind the cliffs. It was the perfect start to a relaxing three-day winter weekend in one of California’s most beautiful places.
When there’s snow at Badger Pass Ski Area, a new way to experience Yosemite’s mountains emerges. Just catch a shuttle from the valley floor and enjoy the scenery before gearing up to plunge downhill on skis or snowboards. If quiet contemplation mixed with strenuous exercise is more your speed, you can rent equipment for cross-country skiing and snowshoeing, or strap on skates down in the valley at Curry Village’s seasonal outdoor ice rink.
On our sunny-but-chilly stay, we had to scrap plans for cross-country skiing—a lack of snow ended up keeping Badger Pass closed all winter—but the conditions were perfect for hiking. After spending so much time watching the falls, we tested our mettle on the Upper Yosemite Falls Trail. Catching glimpses of Half Dome and the cascading torrent through gaps in the oak trees, we navigated the winding granite steps, skirting loose rocks and fat acorns littering the ground. There’s nothing like an uphill climb to warm you up and make you appreciate the chill in the air.
The wide, level trail to Mirror Lake, a two-mile out-and-back along Temaya Creek with no climbing required, calls for a more relaxed pace. The shallow water revealed flecks of fool’s gold shimmering on the lake bed and patches of ice ringed its shadowed shoreline under a breathtakingly blue sky.
Working up an appetite
In winter, make an early dinner reservation at the Mountain Room, so you can enjoy the view of Yosemite Falls from its floor-to-ceiling windows before it gets too dark to see. On our visit, the house-made focaccia came with lemon-scallion butter, whetting our appetites for entrées of trout nestled in purple potato puree accompanied by zesty cranberry relish, and a juicy sirloin steak with Delmonico potatoes.
While Mountain Room is one of the more upscale eateries in the park, it does offer a kids’ menu, though you’re more likely to be among families at the casual Mountain Room Lounge. Open for dinner daily and lunch on weekends, you can roast marshmallows around the crackling fireplace and order from a pared-down list of starters and main courses.
For fine dining, Yosemite’s grande dame is The Ahwahnee, and even if you don’t score a dinner reservation (or failed to pack “proper attire”), your hiking gear won’t raise an eyebrow at the daily breakfast buffet. Completed in 1927, the hotel is worth a visit for its unique blend of Art Deco, Craftsman and Native American influences. The dining room pairs rough-hewn granite and a soaring pine-trussed ceiling with white tablecloths and Gothic-inspired chandeliers, yet somehow, it all works.
The Base Camp Eatery, decorated with mountain climbing regalia, offers all-day fast-casual fare at the Yosemite Lodge. Curry Village has several fast-casual options, as does Yosemite Village, home of Degnan’s Kitchen, the Village Grill and the Village Store, though several other eateries are only open in the summertime.
Art in the Park
The beautifully curated Ansel Adams Gallery is one of Yosemite’s indoor highlights. A family business since 1902 and founded by Ansel’s father-in-law, it celebrates the life and work of the famed photographer whose dramatic black-and-white images defined Yosemite in the popular imagination. It’s the exclusive source for Ansel’s Yosemite Special Edition, iconic photographs printed from his original negatives. During an illuminating conversation with the gallery’s curator, he shows us how Ansel marked up his negatives with notations for developing prints to his exacting specifications. The gallery represents 20 other artists devoted to capturing Yosemite’s splendor and carries a thoughtfully curated array of pottery, books and posters.
Dig deeper into the area’s history at the Yosemite Museum. Its indoor and outdoor exhibits and cultural demonstrations focus on the native Miwok and Paiute people, while Yosemite Village’s Exploration Center hosts rotating exhibits and a film about the park.
Whether blanked in snow, sparkling with frost or crisp and sunny, an off-season excursion makes it easy to appreciate the natural beauty of one of America’s most-visited national parks.