Words by Elaine Wu
It’s been 44 years since Flea Street Cafe opened in Menlo Park, but despite its long-running legacy, the menu still feels modern and fresh. That’s thanks to Bryan Thuerk, the restaurant’s head chef and general manager of five years. He prefers to let his hyper-seasonal dishes take the spotlight. “I’m not an ego-driven person,” says the twenty-something chef. “Jesse built this place and I’m here to support the original vision. I don’t want to ruin anyone’s legacy.”
Jesse, of course, is culinary innovator and self-taught chef Jesse Cool. In 1980, she launched Flea Street with a focus on local, organic ingredients that highlight the best produce, seafood and meats the Golden State has to offer, an innovative concept back then. “It’s hard to classify, but California cuisine is very ingredient-driven,” says Bryan. “It’s our rustic style that highlights the best of those California ingredients and their flavors.”
A bit of a misfit growing up, Bryan went to culinary school in hopes of making something of his life after having a hard time in high school. “I’ve always loved cooking and I remembered enjoying a culinary camp I went to as a kid. That gave me the idea to go to culinary school,” Bryan recalls. “Using my hands to create something really sparked something in me. I found happiness in feeding people and unlocking memories for them.”
Bryan’s first introduction to Flea Street almost didn’t happen. His father was a longtime fan of the restaurant and invited his son there for a family birthday dinner. His girlfriend at the time was hesitant about fine dining as a picky eater. “But it was my birthday and I wanted to come here and have dinner with my family,” Bryan explains. “I’m glad I did, because that choice changed my life.” That night, he was intrigued and impressed with everything about the restaurant. “I was that annoying customer who asked way too many food questions, to the point where the server asked me why I knew so much about food. He brought over the general manager and a week later, I ended up with an interview. Everything aligned—and they took a shot on me.”
After just one month at Flea Street, Bryan became the head chef. It was a rapid and overwhelming ascent for someone just two years out of culinary school. He had never worked as a head chef—or even as a lower-ranking sous chef. “It was a huge transition learning to manage the kitchen, orders, inventory, budgeting and menu development,” he remembers.
Five years later, both Bryan and Flea Street are as focused as ever on sourcing the best local ingredients. “At my last job at a high-end restaurant, we had an endless budget and food was being flown in from all over the world. But now I realize how out of touch with the local food community that was,” he says. “Here, we use all organic, sustainable ingredients, supplying our customers with good, clean food while supporting our local farmers. I wouldn’t have understood seasonality, or when produce is at its peak, if it wasn’t for this job.”
Because the ingredient-driven menu is centered on what’s currently in season, its dishes will vary. You won’t find the summery peach cobbler on a winter menu. Flea Street even has its own little garden in the parking lot, growing vegetables like squash, tomatoes and peppers, lavender for the desserts and mint and verbena for the house-brewed iced tea.
“Our food is rustic and not heavy,” asserts Bryan. “We use herbs, vegetables and proteins that are robust, delicious, but also light yet filling. We take the best of California, and I put my small twist on things.”
Not a flashy kind of guy, Bryan has no interest in amassing social media followers. He’s too busy growing and evolving along with the restaurant. “To this day, it doesn’t feel like a job. I love every aspect of it,” he says. “I can cook for 16 hours and still want to come back the next day. There’s always something to learn.”
Flea Street’s Caesar Salad Dressing Serve over mixed greens instead of the usual romaine lettuce. Garnish with anchovy filets, if desired. Makes about 2 cups of dressing. Ingredients 2 large egg yolks ½ cup anchovies, finely chopped 2 tablespoons chives, finely chopped ¼ cup grated Pecorino Romano cheese 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard ½ teaspoon fresh oregano, chopped ½ teaspoon ground black pepper 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice 1 cup neutral oil 2 tablespoons water (as needed) In a large mixing bowl, whisk together all ingredients except the oil. Then, slowly whisk in the oil. If desired, add water to thin the dressing.