Rolling into Morro Bay shortly before sunset, we get our first glimpse of the lively harbor. Squadrons of pelicans swoop along the shore and boisterous sea lions bark on a floating dock. Strolling out to a small viewing pier, we take in the scene. A novice sailor in a two-man boat struggles with the sails, an animated group floats by on a party boat and a group of kayakers skims silently through the placid water. Nearby, a sleek sea otter floats on its back. Breaking a shell with a rock and gulping down the critter inside, it executes a neat barrel roll and dives in search of more tasty morsels. We got into town 10 minutes ago and already we’re entranced.
One of a string of Central California beach towns in San Luis Obispo County, Morro Bay’s laid-back, small-town charm might be best experienced during the off-season. While summertime vacationers can crowd the stretch of shops, eateries and small hotels along the Embarcadero, on a warm winter day there’s plenty of activity but also plenty of elbow room. The scenic harbor, bookended by Morro Rock on one side and a meandering estuary on the other, is so full of life that it’s hard to look away. Thanks to the long wooden walkway punctuated by benches and piers that overlook it, you seldom have to.
Cover Photo: Courtesy of Visit Moro Bay
Our spotless second-floor room at the boutique Anderson Inn boasts beachy chic decor and two balconies, one with a view of the harbor and another with a table and chairs overlooking the sidewalks of the Embarcadero. We grab binoculars from the desk and zero in on the dizzying array of sea birds and water fowl, spotting even more otters bobbing in the bay.
EXPLORE
While the view from the shore is lovely, we aim to experience Morro Bay from the water with a kayaking and hiking tour led by the vivacious Mandy Davidson of Wildheart Coastal Adventures. The affable expert on local flora and fauna is a longtime resident who fields all our questions with ease. We start out with a short, steep hike to a rocky promontory for an overview of the entire estuary, from harbor to wetlands.
Photography Courtesy of: Visit Slo Cal
Back at the harbor, a dockside kayaking lesson builds our confidence. Paddling out in a tandem kayak behind Mandy’s is like the difference between watching a wildlife documentary and going on a safari. Instead of observers, we’re part of this watery world. We spy a huge osprey perched atop a sailboat’s mast and lanky egrets and herons stalking prey on a sandbar. We pass through schools of tiny silvery fish, their bodies shimmering in the sunlight, and close in on that big group of noisy sea lions. From the kayak, we see that they’re packed in so tightly, the dock has sunk down to the waterline. If one more blubbery fellow tries to join them, they’ll all end up underwater.
The sheer range of wildlife in the harbor is breathtaking, but frankly, it’s hard to stop watching all the furry little otters. In almost every direction, we spy one tending to her sleek pup. We pull up our paddles to watch as one of the bigger otter pups tentatively swims away from mom and ducks its head under the water, its chubby rump still bobbing on the surface. “This phase, where they’re dog-paddling and learning to dive, it only lasts a couple of days,” Mandy marvels, adding that she’s never seen as many baby otters as she has this winter.
Photography Courtesy of: Visit Morro Bay
If wielding a paddle isn’t your idea of fun, other options include hopping aboard a boat for a tour with family-owned Morro Bay Whale Watching and Sub Sea Adventures or renting an electric pontoon boat that seats up to 10 people from Estero Adventures.
Morro Bay and the surrounding area also offer plenty to do on dry land. Serious birders will want to visit the Heron Rookery Natural Preserve in Morro Bay State Park, where snowy egrets, great blue herons and other impressive birds raise their young. Hikers can head two miles south of the city of Morro Bay to Los Osos Elfin Forest, which offers boardwalk and sand trails. If surfing and sunbathing is more your style, check out Morro Rock Beach’s six-mile stretch of sand.
Anderson Inn Photo: Courtesy Anderson Inn - Adam Smth Photography
Morro Bay’s harbor and historic downtown are compact and walkable if shopping and strolling is your idea of a relaxing weekend. Check out Coalesce Bookstore, which has been selling new and used books for over 50 years. The nearby Art Center Morro Bay is one of the Central Coast’s largest venues, exhibiting fine art by local artists. On Saturday afternoons, the weekly Morro Bay Farmers Market is a great place for browsing local produce, crafts, olive oil and prepared foods while enjoying live music.
SAVOR
Like most seaside towns, you’ll find fish and chips and clam chowder on a lot of menus. Most of Morro Bay’s harbor view restaurants specialize in seafood, but at Tognazzini’s Dockside, the owner just might be the one who brought in the catch of the day. Morro Bay native Mark Tognazzini is a commercial fisherman, and if he didn’t catch your fish, he can almost certainly tell you which local fisherman did. His boat, the Bonnie Marietta, is the star of the town’s annual Lighted Boat Parade in December. This past holiday season, he spent three full days decking her out in over 26,000 LED lights.
The Galley, attached to the Anderson Inn, offers top-notch seafood “served naked,” with sauces on the side (the better to appreciate its freshness), along with produce from the chef’s family farm. For more casual dining, settle into a booth and enjoy friendly service and delicious seared ahi fish tacos at Rose’s Landing Bar and Grill. Walk-up fish markets like Lil Harbor Hut and Giovanni’s Take-Out Express let you enjoy your fish and chips on the go, while Dorn’s Breakers Cafe is a local favorite for brunch. For a pick-me-up, walk a few blocks from the harbor to Scout Coffee and try a cup of the pour-over Ethiopian with one of their savory scones made in-house daily.
All too soon, the weekend is over and it’s time to head back to the Peninsula. The three-and-a-half hour drive north offers plenty of time to chart the next trip to Morro Bay. “Our best weather is in the off-season,” Mandy advises us. “Spring can be windy, but in between storms is the best weather.” Sounds like a plan.