A Whale of A Time: Monterey Adventure

Just a glimpse of a shadow and suddenly the calm sea erupts. A humpback whale surfaces with a huge spout of breath, spraying a cascade of water. Splashed by droplets, enthralled spectators respond with outbursts of their own: “Whoo-hoo!” “Wow, look at the eyes!” “It’s huge!” “There’s the tail coming!” “Unbelievable!”

Here’s a further point of amazement: Witnessing this kind of spectacular marine life display doesn’t require a trip to Hawaii, Mexico or Alaska. It’s just a short car ride away.

“Monterey is one of the few places in the world where you can whale watch and have whales here reliably all throughout the year,” says Gina Thomas, a naturalist guide with Princess Monterey Whale Watching. “It’s National Geographic in our own backyard.” With one of the largest and deepest submarine canyons in North America (the watery equivalent to the Grand Canyon), the Monterey Bay National Marine Sanctuary attracts an extraordinary array of whales, dolphins and marine life close to shore. “You just never know what you’re going to see or when you’re going to see it,” notes Gina. “It’s just this adventure of a lifetime.”

Photography: Courtesy of Vivek Kumar / Cover Photograpy: Jorge Casconez

plan a day trip

For an efficient, intimate outing, Santa Cruz Whale Watching by Stagnero Charters offers daily tours for all ages. With just a jaunt over to Santa Cruz Yacht Harbor, you can join an excursion lasting 1 to 3.5 hours. Raised on the Peninsula, marine biologist Megan Petersen is one of the skippers on Velocity, a 60-foot charter boat that carries up to 68 passengers. When it comes to spotting whales, Megan and her crew rely on their senses and tried-and-true binoculars to look for clues on the surface of the water. “There’s no app for finding whales,” Megan explains. “You just gotta go out there and take it all in.”

The Marine Life Protection Act requires boats to keep at least 100 yards away from the whales. However, if whales approach a boat, in what’s called a “friendly encounter,” there are spectacular opportunities to see them up close. On our excursion, we hit the jackpot when two curious humpbacks do exactly that. Gracefully, they move around our boat, surfacing above and passing below, appearing on every side. Completely awestruck, we take in their soulful eyes, powerful blow holes, dorsal fins and arching tails. We watch as they spyhop, positioning themselves vertically above the water to observe their surroundings. Throughout our encounter, we notice a distinct, pungent odor lingering in the air. “That’s whale breath,” Megan confirms with a scrunch of her nose. “To me,” she laughs, “it always smells like rotten broccoli.”

At the back of the boat, the crew uses a mini whiteboard to jot down highlights from the trip. Today’s detailed list ranges from harbor seals and western gulls to a black-footed albatross and an egg-yolk jelly. “It’s a joy to be out there with these animals that are just so amazing,” Megan reflects. “You have the opportunity to connect with what is effectively another world.”

Photography: Courtesy of Sydney Minges

a whale of a getaway

Based in Monterey Harbor, Princess Monterey Whale Watching offers larger vessel excursions for up to 250 passengers, running 2.5 to 3 hours. As we prepare to board, we register the dry-erase marker notations on the Daily Sightings whiteboard: Dall’s Porpoise! Minke Whales! Blue Whales! Risso’s Dolphins! Big Herds of Sea Lions! Humpback Whales! “Every trip is different,” observes naturalist guide Gina Thomas.

On this particular day, overcast skies and fog linger over the water as the 9AM boat departs from Fisherman’s Wharf. We’ve chosen the early morning tour, as the water is typically calmer, so there’s less chance of seasickness. Wrapped in warm layers for variable weather and armed with anti-nausea meds, we grip onto the cold metal railing for balance. We pass a jetty on the edge of the harbor covered with Brandt’s Cormorants, a common coastal species. California sea lions rest on the rocks and sea otters swim nearby. We keep our eyes peeled for the main attraction: humpback whales.

Averaging 40 feet in length and weighing up to 40 tons, these gentle giants have dorsal fins that sit on slightly fatty humps. “When they make their sounding dive,” Gina tells us, “they arch that area of their back steeply out of the water giving them their name, the humpback whale.” We learn that patterns and markings on the underside of the tail uniquely identify each whale, much like a human fingerprint. As we stand on the deck and scan for tell “tail” signs, Gina gives a few pointers: “We use the boat as a clock, so everyone can look in the same direction. The front of the boat is 12 o’clock, halfway down the right side is 3, the back is 6 and halfway up the left side is 9.”

Due to the marine layer, fog sits dense on the water. Moisture coats our faces, hands and hair, even our eyebrows. Two hours into our excursion, we’re still waiting to see the star of the show. “This is 100% wild, natural behavior that we can’t predict,” Gina reminds us. Then, our crew gets tipped by another boat that a whale is in the area. “We are going to slow down,” Gina announces, “in case that whale makes its way in our direction.”

Luck and patience pay off. “There, at one o’clock, two humpback whales!” Gina calls out with excitement. “Absolutely fantastic!” Our eyes track the action as the whales swim along the surface. “There’s that arch and tail flukes,” Gina exclaims, as we watch spellbound from our front-row view.

Photography: Courtesy of Monterey Plaza Hotel & Spa

COMMUNE WITH THE OCEAN

Less than a 100-mile drive from the Peninsula, Monterey makes for a perfect weekend getaway, combining whale watching with main attractions including the Monterey Bay Aquarium and historic Cannery Row. A luxurious homebase in the heart of it all, Monterey Plaza Hotel & Spa sits perched right over the water. Half of the 290 recently renovated guest rooms and suites have ocean views, and we appreciate the extra touch of binoculars at the ready. At Vista Blue Spa, we take in panoramic views from the sundeck and enjoy a quiet, early morning soak in the hot tubs. After warming up with a latte from Tidal Coffee overlooking the Bay, we find the stairway to the public beach, a popular local spot where kayakers and standup paddle boarders come and go throughout the day. Just steps from the main lobby, bikers and walkers leisurely explore the recreational trails lining the coast. The hotel’s central location also provides easy access to activities such as golfing, sailing and scuba diving.

In tune with Monterey Plaza’s iconic setting, Coastal Kitchen offers oceanfront dining featuring a multi-course tasting menu with fresh, sustainable ingredients from local farmers and fishermen. Chef Michael Rotondo changes his culinary creations to reflect availability each season. “I try to incorporate all the different senses,” he says, adding that texture “keeps your taste buds excited.”

After our active day on the Bay, we relax into the fine-dining experience, soaking up the expansive ocean views. With wine pairings curated by Sommelier Conrad Reddick, course highlights include king salmon, wood roasted black cod and a 48-hour braised beef short rib with a beet juice reduction. We end on a sweet note: a shortcake with coriander ice cream. Although it’s hard to look away from each artfully arranged plate, we smile at the sight of sea otters just outside the window, enjoying a feast of their own.

Photography:  courtesy of joseph weaver and monterey plaza hotel & spa

Photography: Courtesy of Joseph Weaver

Extend Your Stay

+ InterContinental The Clement Monterey – Luxury waterfront lodging with panoramic ocean views.
+ Monterey Plaza Hotel – Classic coastal hospitality with dramatic beachfront setting.
+ Victorian Inn – Boutique hotel with historic
Monterey charm just steps from Cannery Row.

Seasonal Sightings

January-May: Gray Whales
April-November: Humpback Whales
Year-Round: Blue and Orca Whales (less common),
Dolphins, Porpoises and Seabirds
www.santacruzwhalewatching.com
www.montereywhalewatching.com

Diary of a Dog: Hopper

In the spirit of Halloween, I’ve never understood why black cats get such a bad rap. I do know that my Menlo Park family count themselves lucky to have brought a black miniature poodle into their home. Namely, me. Hopper. In 2018, a family friend discovered me at Love & Second Chances Rescue and instantly knew I belonged with Peter and Jaime. Back then, I was known as “Chase” because I kept escaping from my foster homes. Once I settled in, it never occurred to me to run away again, and Peter and Jaime decided to rename me after their favorite artist, Edward Hopper. Here’s the funny coincidence: It didn’t take long for them to realize I have this amazing ability to hop and jump. When they gave me my first dog treat, I began to spin around on my hind legs to show my appreciation. To this day, I have a whole “bone dance” routine I do before I gobble down a yummy snack. With my dark eyes, it’s sometimes hard to tell what I’m thinking. I show my feelings by being extra snuggly, and my family calls me “the light of their lives.”

Calling All Dogs: If you’ve got quirky habits or a funny tale (or tail) to share, email your story to hello@punchmonthly.com for a chance to share a page from your Diary of a Dog in PUNCH. 

Hands-On History: San Mateo County History Museum

Words by Johanna Harlow

It’s not hard to spot the San Mateo County History Museum. To visit Redwood City’s courthouse turned facility of learning, look for the grandiose building with towering Corinthian pillars and hulking decorative eagles that sit on ledges like stony gargoyles. Waiting in the rotunda is Dana Neitzel, Pacifica resident and curator for the San Mateo County Historical Association (SMCHA). We’ve asked Dana for a private tour to glean insights into her work and the museum’s mission to bring Peninsula history—from the original native people to today’s inhabitants—to life.

“Our job here is to tell local stories. But we’re putting it in a national and worldwide context,” Dana explains as she crosses under the building’s massive, Renaissance revival-style dome, its stained glass twinkling like a colossal kaleidoscope. “History repeats itself. The human factor of how you interact with your world is universal.”

Speaking of “the human factor,” Dana has been a driving force behind the museum since 2009. Among her responsibilities, she develops, designs, curates, fabricates and installs four to six changing exhibits each year as well as renovates the permanent ones. The grand total to date: 61 exhibits. She also assists with SMCHA’s other two historic sites: Pacifica’s Sanchez Adobe and the Woodside Store.

Image courtesy of Jerry Pierce SMCHA Archives

When asked for favorite tidbits of local history, Dana cracks a smile and reveals that the county got its start embroiled in corruption. “One of the early exhibits (and more fun ones) I did was called Broads, Bootleggers and Bookies… We had so many bars in this museum, it was ridiculous!” The temporary exhibit is no longer available, though a permanent version dedicated to both law breakers and law enforcement can be found upstairs. The sheriff’s badges and dueling pistols seem to stare each other down from opposite sides of the room in a symbolic standoff.

As Dana leads the way into an interactive exhibit spotlighting the county’s early residents, an Ohlone chant fills the room. “We want to address the different learning styles,” she shares as she passes a traditional willow and tule hut, along with animal skins and hunting equipment in the Native American corner—then moves along to the rancho section featuring cowhides, saddles and spurs. Fueling the imagination, the walls depict Old West scenes set against the expansive frontier. “Type one is personal,” Dana elaborates. “It needs to speak to you. It needs to speak to me. Type two is the reader. ‘I want content. I’m gonna read every single label.’ So we need to make sure that the text we have is telling stories. Type three is ‘I gotta touch this! I wanna see that! That looks good!’ For those people, we want to have imagery that draws them in and makes them want to read the text. And then type four is the holistic learner. ‘I want the big idea. What is this whole thing trying to say?’”

Dana self-identifies as a big-picture type four. “I am a lifelong learner,” she clarifies. “What really interests me is learning something new.” It’s one of the reasons she first came to the museum. After nearly a decade at Oakland Museum of California—where she tackled everything from cataloging items to conducting visitor studies to organizing and transporting 2,500 Native American baskets to the museum’s new state-of-the-art warehouse—Dana joined the tight-knit team at SMCHA. Though her current job spans the responsibilities of five employees for a single department over at the Oakland Museum, she enjoys the freedom and variety of her work. “I like doing a little of everything. I get bored if I do the same thing every single day,” she confides with a laugh. “And that was what one of my references told my boss here. Every once in a while, she’ll check in and say, ‘Dana, are you bored yet?’ I’m like, ‘Nope!’”

Proving her point, she continues, “My husband teases me because every exhibit I do, I say, “Oh, this is the best exhibit I’ve done!’ He says, ‘Yeah, you said that about the last one. And the one before that. And the one before that.’”

 

Image courtesy of Audrey Luke and SMCHA 

As Dana weaves her way through the many experiences here, it becomes apparent that she (and the other SMCHA curators before her) haven’t taken a one-size-fits-all approach to the exhibits. Each room takes on a flavor that matches its subject matter, expressing a personality uniquely its own. At Mavericks, a surfboard simulator invites riders to hang ten amidst walls crafted like a cresting wave. At Land of Opportunity, colorful hues and an eclectic collection of multicultural clothing and artifacts honor Bay Area immigrants. And at the local and international maritime exhibit, boat models, stormy ship paintings and a pulley demonstration provide focal points.

Perhaps most impressively, there’s the “object theater” at Living the California Dream. As the voices of past promoters from different time periods try to sell you (the perspective home buyer) on the benefits of living in San Mateo County, videos play through the windows of “rooms” in grand estates and suburban 1920s kitchens. Vintage household items (ranging from a dust bag vacuum cleaner to a Laun-Dry-Ette Electric Washing Machine) are illuminated in turn.

With an emphasis on relaying personal accounts, the museum makes oral histories a priority. “So yes, we have cool artifacts,” notes Dana, “but who used those artifacts?” Visitors listen and learn as the voices of San Mateo County immigrants speak about the traditions they brought with them, a child of bootleggers shares memories of the family making grappa during Prohibition and a seasoned Mavericks surfer recounts death-defying tales.

Dana makes a light-hearted confession toward the end of our visit: “I’m not a historian. I just play one at work,” she good-naturedly admits. Really, she’s more of an anthropologist at heart. “I’m into people… So what makes humans tick. And the artifacts they use represent where they are in their lives—what their culture is about. You can learn so much about humans from the objects they use.”

As our tour ends back at the rotunda, it’s evident that Dana and her team’s tireless efforts create a conversation with San Mateo County’s rich history and culture. The voices of the Peninsula—past and present—fill this place. And it’s so much more than the distant murmur of first-hand accounts from the speakers.

True Crime Historian

Words by Johanna Harlow

Forget what you’ve seen in the movies. Real crime solving is a long slog to The Truth: shuffling through paper trails, sifting through timelines, scrutinizing witness accounts and examining seemingly mundane details. Most of us aren’t cut out for such banality. But detectives and historians are made of tougher stuff.

In 1905, detectives failed to find justice for Jane Stanford, the deceased co-founder and trustee of Stanford University. A century later, a modern-day history professor took it upon himself to uncover the troubling truth behind her demise. The saga began when Richard White, a longtime faculty member at Stanford University, stumbled across the historic cover-up.

After reading neurology professor Dr. Robert W. P. Cutler’s 2003 book proving Jane Stanford had come to an insidious end, Richard was intrigued. At the time of her passing, Mrs. Stanford’s demise was chalked up to natural causes. Which was odd. The evidence clearly pointed to her dying of strychnine poisoning—after surviving another poisoning attempt only a month earlier. And yet people with ties to the wealthy philanthropist, including college administrators, seemed oddly eager to credit her death to heart failure. Something wasn’t adding up.

According to Richard, it was apparent that private detectives hired by the university had discovered the guilty party. “Why was it that they went out of their way to make it seem that they had not discovered the murderer,” Richard wondered, “and indeed told you there had been no murder at all?” Richard’s in-depth research resulted in his own tell-all book. Published in May 2022, Who Killed Jane Stanford? earned praise from The Wall Street Journal and The New York Times.

“Stanford University appears to be a Silicon Valley university, a modern research university—but peel it back a little and the ghosts are still there,” observes Richard. “The murderer who once walked there, traces of them are still all over that campus.”

Before the bestseller, came the class. When Richard first introduced his “Who Killed Jane Stanford?” curriculum, he invited undergraduates to learn about original sources under the guise of a little crime solving. “I thought that the best way to get undergraduates interested in going into the archives would be to give them a murder mystery,” he notes, adding that he hoped the course would fuel equal parts curiosity and skepticism in his students.

Packed with bribes, unreliable witnesses and missing evidence, the case’s obvious intrigue drew the young scholars right in. The New York Post would later make a playful comparison between Richard’s book and the game of Clue, presenting suspects like a lineup with Professor Plum, Miss Scarlet and the rest of the board game regulars. Richard chuckles when asked if he too sees the resemblance. “Yeah, because I have the butler! I have the maid. I have the mansion.” The folks with a bone to pick with Jane Stanford were many: a recently fired manservant, an overtaxed personal assistant, a few aggravated housekeepers, money-driven family members, not to mention a power-hungry university president.

“One of the most haunting images I have of Jane Stanford is her funeral procession, in which many of the people suspected of her murder, many of the people who covered up her murder, were the people who walked immediately behind her casket,” the professor shares.

But whereas his students left the mystery behind at the end of each quarter, Richard couldn’t let the case go. “It’s the kind of stuff that kept me awake at night,” he relays. “There still wasn’t evidence, at least to my satisfaction, that demonstrated who killed her, let alone why they killed her—let alone why the university would go to such lengths to cover up that she had been murdered at all.” After a couple of rounds, the class had run its course—but Richard trudged onwards.

In his dogged pursuit of answers, he returned to the archives time and time again. “Like most of actual life, it’s really boring,” he quips. “You have to sit down with a large collection of papers—99% of which have absolutely nothing to do with what you’re interested in—and you have to leaf through them. You have to be willing to follow up a whole series of leads, which mostly end up in dead ends.” But the professor made progress as he combed through old legal documents, faded newspapers and Mrs. Stanford’s letters (including some tense correspondence with the founding Stanford president, David Starr Jordan).

Richard’s experience as a professor—with intimate knowledge of the inner workings of university life and campus politics—guided him to a big breakthrough in the investigation. “If you’ve worked in universities for your whole life like I have, you know in each university, there are people in the administration who know where the bodies are buried,” he reveals. At Stanford University in the early 1900s, that man was George Crothers, a bureaucrat and lawyer on the university’s board of trustees. Though George had his suspicions about Jane’s demise, he chose not to show his hand during his lifetime. He did, however, write memoranda calling attention to the manipulative and narcissistic track record of one of the case’s prime suspects. “I knew that nobody had looked at them before because they were in perfect order,” Richard said of Crothers’ papers. “It was like breaking open a new deck of cards.”

Slowly, the bigger picture began to materialize. “I just kept following the strings,” Richard observes, “and over a period of about five or six years, I began to see the outlines of what had happened—and then it was simply making sense of it.”

In hindsight, Richard reflects, “The most interesting evidence I unearthed doesn’t necessarily go straight to the murder.” Instead, it helped him better understand the society that produced the killer—and why college administrators played along with the natural death theory. “A murder trial could reveal the controversies within the university, resurrect old scandals and reveal new ones,” he points out in his book.

Richard concedes that his focus on in-depth societal analysis probably wouldn’t fly with private investigators. “Give historians a crime, and historians want to use that crime to open a door to a wider world,” he notes. “Detectives just want to solve the crime. They would kick us off the case.”
Richard isn’t surprised that modern-day Stanford hasn’t weighed in on his tale of Cardinal crime, corruption and cover-up. He’s quick to add, “I had to be careful as a historian and not just collapse the present and the past. You don’t want to impose the university onto the university in the late 19th, early 20th century. I had to throw myself back into a university that occupied the same plot of ground as modern Stanford University—but which was a very, very different place.”

A note to readers: If you crave the adrenaline of shootouts and chase scenes down dark alleys, Richard might not be your author. “It’d be a lot easier to burst into a room with a pistol and solve the crime,” he jokes. “But, you know, I’ve never known a historian who has a chase scene.”

That said, he did turn to his crime-writing brother, Stephen White of the Alan Gregory mystery series, for help “plotting” the book. “When we [as historians] know something, we just reveal it,” he acknowledges. “In the introduction, we just tell you everything you need to know. My brother would say, ‘That’s not going to work here. You’ve got to wait.’”

Withholding info for the dramatic Big Reveal at the end is key. (Which is why we’d be remiss to unveil the killer’s identity here.)

As he digs up buried truths, Richard hopes his book fosters a deeper awareness of the Peninsula. “It’s a place with a really interesting past,” he reflects. “And even though that past can sometimes be a little sordid, it’s worth looking into… And it’s there whenever you scratch the surface.”

Essay: Hey, It’s Me

Words by Sloane Citron

For much of my life, I’ve wondered where my looks—the good, the bad, the ugly—came from. I didn’t look a thing like my mother or my father and except for my blue eyes—a common Citron trait—there was little I shared with my ancestors. I only knew one of my four grandparents, my mother’s loving elderly mother. But in her visage, or in the old black and white pictures of the grandparents I never met, I saw nothing of myself. I often thought, like many children do, that I must have been adopted.

I’m now a grandfather, though a young one, of seven grandchildren, the oldest soon to be four years old. Even as I have become the family patriarch, there is nothing looks-wise that ties me to my parents. Like my father, I do have good hair, still there and still mostly dark. When my dad died at 86, he had thick black locks. But the hair (and the eyes) were about it. Where did I come from? Who did I resemble?

I have a bright cousin named Peter Vardon, who lives near Washington, D.C. He retired a few years ago, and, like many others with time on their hands, he embraced a new pastime: delving into family history. His mother, Evelyn, was the sister of my father. Much of his research centered upon our grandfather, Julius Citron. Every family has a standout; he was ours.

It turns out that a researcher Peter had contacted for information was coincidentally writing a book about Julius. The two of them were able to share a great deal of information, and we were able to learn many new aspects about our grandfather’s life.

“In the emerging field of serology, Citron developed the world’s first blood tests that would shape the field of serology for decades. He developed the first blood test to diagnose syphilis that would remain in use for over sixty years, popularly known as the ‘Wassermann Test,’ and the first blood test to diagnose tuberculosis.”

My father, Julius’ son, was an extremely quiet man, the result, I believe, of his introverted personality and his hard youth, including escaping from Nazi Germany in the 1930s, right after his young mother died. My father shared little. We had books in our library that Julius had written but not much was said about them or him. While I was always aware that my grandfather had done something “important,” it wasn’t until cousin Peter got to work that I gleaned the actual details.

I did get a hint of his significance a few years ago, when I was hunted down and contacted by the Einstein Papers Project at CalTech. They asked if I was related to Julius Citron. I wrote back that I was his grandson and they responded with several questions, to which I knew almost nothing. They in turn sent me correspondence between my grandfather and the legendary physicist. When I questioned Peter about this, he told me that his mother would recall Dr. Einstein bouncing her on his lap when he came to see Julius back in Berlin.

“Devoted to the German Jewish community and a lifelong Zionist, Citron, along with friend Albert Einstein, led a committee of prominent Berlin Jews including Rabbi Leo Baeck, Judah Magnus and other leading citizens in support of the creation of the Hebrew University of Jerusalem.”

I wish I had known Julius, and my other grandfather too. I missed out on having a living grandfather, something I see as an enduring loss. I hope that my little grandchildren—though they would not remember me if I were to pass today—would still have the imprint of the deep love that I have for them and for the time that we have shared.

“An American colleague wrote in 1910 about Citron that ‘He is a genial, earnest worker and a delightful gentleman, thoroughly interested in his work, an excellent teacher and in all probability one of the best laboratory men on the [European] Continent,’ a testament to Citron’s international reputation from a young age.”

When cousin Peter sent me over some parts of the manuscript, one thing startled me: a picture of my grandfather as the young man described in the previous paragraph—a picture that I’d never seen. It startled me because, well, it was me! Or mostly. I had only seen pictures of Julius as an old man, but this picture, when he was around 35, was like looking at myself at that age.

So now I know that I wasn’t adopted! Though I was not endowed with his intellect and talent, I do have Julius’ looks. My sons Joshua and Jacob are named after him, and Jacob (Coby), somewhat amazingly, lives right near Julius’ original Tel Aviv home, fulfilling his great-grandfather’s dream. Right now, I don’t see myself in any of my grandchildren, but maybe someday—when they are grown up—one of them will look at my picture as a young man and say, “Hey, it’s me!”

The Beat on your Eats: High Tea

Words by Johanna Harlow

As the weather starts to cool down, warm things up with high tea.

son and garden

Menlo Park

When visiting Son and Garden, expect flowers absolutely everywhere. Rosebuds on the fine china. Carnations on the danishes. Hyacinths beneath the awning of the wraparound porch. Blooming flower tea. And an entire photo op wall of silk roses. With a tea service as aesthetic as it is tasty, a wide selection of sweet pastries and savory sandwiches await. Seasonal autumn options mean that maple cakes, pecan nut tarts and carrot cakes will adorn your triple-tier stand. Doubling as a popular brunch spot, Son and Garden invites you back for decadent French toast filled with vanilla pastry cream and a flight of mimosas in multi-colored pipettes. 1195 Merrill Street. Open Monday to Sunday from 9AM to 3PM. High tea is $110 for two people.

leland tea company

Burlingame

Immerse yourself in vintage nostalgia at Leland Tea Company—where hand-painted folks from the ’30s and ’40s galavant on the walls, tables and counters, and Louis Armstrong’s trumpet plays the bright notes of “La Vie en Rose” in the background. Tea service offerings balance salad and sandwiches with homemade madeleines, scones and cookies—but most impressive is the loose-leaf tea menu. It’s as chunky as a novelette and ranges from Breakfast Club to Coco Blanc, Mandarin Green to Mumbai Chai. Narrow down your options by asking the owner (who has a flair for suggesting flavor profiles) or embrace the shop’s vintage vibe with a themed tea. You’ll find ones named after classy old films like My Fair Lady and It’s a Wonderful Life as well as iconic singers like Billie Holiday, Josephine Baker, and Ginger Rogers. There’s even a cheekily-named Grey’s Kelly. 1223 Donnelly Avenue. Open Wednesday to Sunday from noon to 5PM. Closed Monday and Tuesday except for reserved events. High tea starts at $19.

tea time

Palo Alto

For a perfectly lazy afternoon, we suggest sipping a cup of Caribbean Jazz or Casablanca Chamomile while lounging in wicker chairs on the umbrella-lined patio of Tea Time. Owned by the same folks as Lisa’s Tea Treasures in Los Altos, Tea Time takes pride in the details by dusting desserts with powdered sugar, doling out lace doilies and bundling teapots in cute tea cozies. Catering to both the sweet tooth and the savory seeker, the cafe offers chicken-apple-walnut sandwiches and vegetarian tartlets as well as cinnamon and cranberry scones. And if your visit inspires you to host your own tea party in the future? Purchase a teapot and cups from the shelves upon shelves displayed inside. 542 Ramona Street. Open Thursday to Monday from 10:30AM to 4:30PM. Closed Tuesday and Wednesday. High tea is $45 per person.

Hunt for Orange October – Half Moon Bay 2022 Activities

Words by Kelly Chamberlin

What does it mean to be the pumpkin capital of the world? For Half Moon Bay’s coastal region, it equates to producing 3,000 tons of pumpkins every year—and hosting an annual celebration paying tribute to that famous orange crop. And 2022 is especially notable because it marks the 50th anniversary of Half Moon Bay’s renowned Pumpkin Festival. If you’re ready to get your gourd on, here’s a sampling of the area’s many pumpkin-inspired delights, sights and bites.

Pumpkin Festival

Featuring live music, harvest-inspired arts & crafts, homestyle foods, contests and expert pumpkin-carving demos, the 50th Annual Half Moon Bay Art & Pumpkin Festival takes place October 15-16 on historic Main Street. The Safeway World Championship Pumpkin Weigh-Off kicks off festivities on Monday, October 10, on the IDES Grounds (735 Main Street). On Saturday, October 15, look for the Weigh-Off champion pumpkin and grower in The Great Pumpkin Parade, along with marching bands, classic cars, spirited floats and a procession of costumed characters.

Pumpkin Patches

Spread out along Highway 92 (San Mateo Road) and Cabrillo Highway (Highway 1), local pumpkin farms offer up a wide variety of colors, shapes, sizes­—and activities.

Andreotti Farms
In operation since 1926, this family farm turns into a giant pumpkin patch with an abundance of reasonably priced gourds to choose from. 800 Cabrillo Highway

Arata’s Pumpkin Farm
In addition to pumpkins, this family-friendly farm features pony rides, a petting zoo and the infamous Minotaur’s Labyrinth (a two-acre hay maze that changes every year). 185 Verde Road

Farmer John’s Pumpkin Farm
Look for more than 60 varieties of pumpkins and squash to peruse at this famous farm. 850 N. Cabrillo Highway


Lemos Farm
Through November 20, this family farm with year-round activities turns into “Halloween Palooza” with a haunted house, the Ghost Train, and of course, lots of pumpkins. 12320 San Mateo Road

Pastorino Farms
Through October 31, Pastorino’s transforms into a seasonal pumpkin farm with hayrides, train rides, ponies, a petting zoo and giant slides. 12391 San Mateo Road

Repetto’s
Find great prices on pumpkins plus a not-to-miss corn maze, which spans over an acre. 12592 San Mateo Road

Seasonal Treats

Pumpkin Candy
This fall season, Small Town Sweets presents a wide selection of pumpkin treats including homemade pumpkin pie fudge, pumpkin spice malt balls, pumpkin spice caramels, pumpkin spice meringues and pumpkin pie saltwater taffy. 617 Main Street

Pumpkin Gnocchi
Sam’s Chowder House is cooking up a variety of festive specials this pumpkin season including house-made pumpkin gnocchi in lobster cream sauce and delicious pumpkin cheesecake with bourbon whipped cream and toasted pecans. 4210 Cabrillo Highway

Pumpkin Brew
Head to Half Moon Bay Brewing Company for its famous Pumpkin Harvest Ale, available on tap and in 16-ounce cans. This full-bodied amber ale is made with locally grown sugar pie pumpkins and roasted with a secret blend of spices added to the brew kettle. You’ll also find pumpkin-inspired soups and salads on the menu. 390 Capistrano Road

Pumpkin Goodies
Moonside Bakery and Café bakes up “Everything Pumpkin” including sweet loaves, muffins, croissants, scones, cheesecake, mousse cakes, French macarons and pumpkin-shaped cookies. You’ll find pumpkin pie, of course, and even pumpkin pancakes and pumpkin-seeded bagels. 604 Main Street

Pumpkin Ravioli
Head to Cal-Italian restaurant (and Half Moon Bay mainstay) Mezzaluna for homemade ravioli stuffed with fresh pumpkin and served in a sage and butter sauce. 459 Prospect Way

Pumpkin Pie
James Beard Award-winning Duarte’s Tavern, a family-run establishment since 1894, is serving up their signature pumpkin pie starting October 1. 202 Stage Road, Pescadero

Pumpkin Cheese
Harley Farms, home to award-winning goat cheese, is offering its seasonal Pumpkin-Spice Fromage Blanc, a deliciously creamy and light cheese with a subtle pumpkin tang. 205 North Street, Pescadero

Pumpkin Time

www.visithalfmoonbay.org
www.pumpkinfest.miramarevents.com

Photography: courtesy of Igor Porton, Kevin Henney, Sam’s Chowder House and Michael Biesemeyer, Half Moon Bay Brewing Co. and Laura Acton

Project Happiness

Words by Christina Chahal

One night at the kitchen table, Randy Taran’s teenager told her, “Mom, I want to be happy, I just don’t know how.” For Randy, that moment was a piercing wake-up call. Her mother had suffered from depression and as a young person, Randy didn’t have the resources to help her. Now, she was determined to do everything in her power to provide her children with the tools they needed to take charge of their own happiness.

As Randy started doing research and asking questions, she soon discovered that many families were dealing with similar issues—depression, bullying and stress. Coming from a film background, Randy channeled her energy into producing Project Happiness, a 2011 award-winning documentary bringing teens together with people like George Lucas, Richard Gere, neuroscientist Richard Davidson and the Dalai Lama to explore the nature of lasting happiness.

The film led to co-writing the Project Happiness Handbook in 2017 followed by a Science of Happiness learning curriculum that’s been used in over 120 countries. “Combining the best of positive psychology, neuroscience and mindfulness, the curriculum teaches people to actually change the neural pathways in their brains to be more resilient, no matter what life presents,” shares Randy. She’s also written a book, Emotional Advantage: Embracing All Your Feelings to Create a Life You Love.

“People need to learn to be their own coach, instead of their loudest critic,” notes Randy, who moved to the Peninsula with her family in 1993. “The good news is that this can be done. Happiness is a skill that can be learned. And by the way, happiness does not mean the absence of problems; it’s having the resilience to deal with them.”

Today, Project Happiness is a thriving nonprofit based in Palo Alto with millions of followers on Facebook and over 100,000 subscribers receiving daily happiness emails. “We like to say we are in the business of planting seeds,” explains Randy. “The ideas are universal and intergenerational. Especially in complex times, we all want to have happier and more meaningful lives.”

When it comes to finding happiness, what are some of the unique advantages and challenges of living on the Peninsula?

The Peninsula is such an amazing place to live. The beauty is incomparable, and we can enjoy being outdoors and close to nature pretty much most of the year. We have that all around us. But… this external sense of peace is often incongruent with the internal pressures that so many people feel: the need to excel, achieve, keep up with the Joneses. This area attracts Type A personalities, workaholics and perfectionists and that can come at a price.

After starting with teenagers, how did you decide to reach out to a broader audience?

We knew we were reaching kids, schools and community groups, but we wanted everyone to be able to access these science-based tools. So we went to social media and email with our daily “Happiness Vitamins.” We came up with the idea of delivering bite-sized daily boosts with different themes: Mindful Monday, GratiTuesday, Wellness Wednesday, Thoughtful Thursday, Freedom Friday, Social Saturday, Sunday Soul. Reading these every day and week is similar to a musician practicing their instrument or an athlete lifting weights—their skills inevitably get stronger. With practice, the brain’s neural pathways get stronger too. We now know that there is neuroplasticity—
in other words, the brain can change.

Are there themes that particularly resonate right now?

Lately, there has been a real interest in creating healthy boundaries and coming into greater alignment with ourselves. Also, as women come into their own, say in their late 30s, 40s, 50s or on, they may not have the same patience to put up with conditioned roles and responses. When we can say NO to things that are not meaningful, we can say YES to creating more space for a meaningful life. It’s OK to honor yourself and your needs. It’s OK to express emotions in a skillful way rather than keeping them inside. It’s OK to realize that much of the emotional static from others is a reflection of their own hurts—and it’s usually not personal. When we recognize that and take care of our own needs, everyone benefits.

Could you have imagined happiness would become your mission in life?

There’s a saying, “Life doesn’t happen to you—it happens for you.” I never expected to be on this journey, and I feel grateful to have stumbled upon this path. We are always being guided if we are open to the signs. As a dear mentor always said, “Trust and stay open.”

Benefits of So-Called
“Negative” Emotions

+ Anxiety: Wake-up call to make a shift
+ Fear: Alerts you to danger, protects you
+ Guilt: Brings you back to your core values
+ Anger: Protects your boundaries, reveals
that something is off

The Science of Happiness

+ Neuroplasticity means the brain is able to change and adapt as a result of experience.
+ With specific practices, we can train our brains to be happier. For example, people who have a gratitude practice can increase their life satisfaction 25%.
+ Mindfulness and meditation improve cognition and help reduce anxiety.
+ When we are less reactive, we tap into the prefrontal cortex, rather than the amygdala, and make better decisions.
+ Breathing is a powerful way to reduce anxiety and re-center. Check out the 4-7-8 Breath, and the Box Breathing (4-4-4-4) used by Navy Seals to restore calm.

How to Be Happier by the Day

Mindful Monday: For greater inner peace, have a mindfulness practice, even if only for a few minutes a day.
GratiTuesday: Keep a gratitude journal, gratitude jar or send a gratitude letter. Cultivate gratitude for small moments.
Wellness Wednesday: Give your body the fuel to function: energizing food, enough rest, exercise to get you out of your head.
Thoughtful Thursday: When you are kind to someone, it makes YOU feel good. Be kind to yourself too—be your own coach instead of your critic.
Freedom Friday: Boundaries are your friend. It’s OK to say no. Take care of your core needs: to be respected, loved and true to yourself. We can disagree and still get along.
Social Saturday: Surround yourself with people who elevate you and do the same for them.
Sunday Soul: Connect with your inner peace and strength. Connect with something greater. Create space for the whispers of your soul.

Diary of a Dog: Ellie Rose

For those who followed this year’s Platinum Jubilee in Great Britain, you should know there’s another royal lady to be found on the Peninsula. Although I’m a French bulldog, you can see that I’m holding court in San Mateo’s Central Park. The shaggy dog statue isn’t my only subject—I also play top dog to a warm-hearted pit bull and two more Frenchies. I have Bara to thank for recognizing my regal bearing and bringing me home to San Mateo, where I also enjoy spending time with Bara’s doting father, Ellis, for whom I was named, and Bara’s close friend and dog sitter, Jim. The second part of my name comes from Bara’s own, which means “rose” in Japanese—like that of the late princess Margaret Rose, sister of Queen Elizabeth. My royal status was established early by my affectionate but strong-minded personality. Some say I’m bossy—but I face an issue most other Frenchies don’t. I’m completely deaf. My color ‘pied’ is a lovely white with black spots and splashes, but missing the normal pigmentation can lead to hearing disorders. I make up for the loss by being extremely intelligent and a quick learner. My breeder recognized at once that Bara would be the perfect family for me since she’s a patient and experienced dog trainer and passionate Frenchie owner. Bara started me at once with hand signals and by 11 months, I was fully trained, gaining my AKC Canine Good Citizenship. After all, a queen needs to model proper manners. I not only know my commands but learned tricks as well—I roll over and melt hearts with my “looking sad” trick, which is all in jest since I’m a very contented pup.

Art and Wine Odyssey

Words by Sheryl Nonnenberg

With over 400 wineries in Sonoma County, a day-long trek in this sunny, rural community can often seem like a non-stop loop of sameness: fields of vines, well-appointed tasting rooms and measured sips of local varietals. A truly unique wine country experience awaits, however, with a visit to The Donum Estate. This 200-acre former dairy farm is a luxurious, multi-sensory haven for upscale art, wine and food, all within an hour’s drive north of the Golden Gate Bridge.

You get a sense that this is not just another winery as you veer off Highway 12 onto Ramal Road. Is that bright, shiny silver object on the hilltop a sculpture in the middle of verdant, flowing rows of grapevines? It is indeed and that is just the beginning of this art/wine odyssey.

We approach the large security gate and press the button, which results in a warm welcome and instructions to meet our host, Gabe Rodriquez, in front of the main building, referred to as The Home. As soon as we park the car, Gabe greets us with two glasses of chilled Chardonnay. He explains that our 90-minute “Discover Experience” begins with a brief tour of The Home followed by a specially-curated wine/food pairing.

A respite from the hot sun sounds like a great idea and we follow Gabe into the main room of the recently remodeled ranch-style house. The foyer is spacious and airy, thanks to a vaulted ceiling and a wall of windows that look out over the rolling fields. Gabe shares that the owners of Donum (Latin for “gift of the land”) are Alan and Mei Warburg, who purchased the estate in 2011. An art collector for many years, Alan is a native of Denmark; Mei is Chinese and an artist. They began collecting sculptures for Donum, with the idea of creating an open-air museum that would enhance the beauty of the estate, which is also a working ranch.

Today, with over 50 monumental works, The Donum Collection is recognized as one of the world’s most accessible private sculpture collections.

Image: Courtesy of Donum Estate

The couple’s combined backgrounds—East and West—are stamped in virtually every way on the Estate, from the Danish furniture in The Home to the internationally-known artists in their collection. It is reflected in the artwork on display in the main building, including an Andy Warhol portrait of Queen Margarethe II of Denmark and a very large Liu Xiaodong painting that makes a statement about the impact of pollution on future generations.

As we settle into the tasting room, Gabe describes the wines and food pairings we will experience, as well as the history of The Donum Estate winery, which earned organic certification this year. Donum produces single-vineyard, single-appellation Chardonnay and Pinot Noir wines, with the main focus on the Pinots. An elegant table setting includes four glasses and small plates with tiny bites so exquisitely crafted they could be works of art themselves. We begin with a 2019 Chardonnay, paired with a chilled spring gazpacho. We nod in agreement when Gabe points out how the tangy dill complements the crisp white finish. This is followed by several more delightful pairings, including a smooth 2018 Chardonnay with popcorn panna cotta and a luscious 2019 Pinot with smoked salmon mousse on crisp crostini.

Image: Courtesy of Gregory Gorman

Although we had a private tasting, Donum is equipped to host both small and large groups, with gatherings of 40 or more accommodated in a patio area in the garden. As we take our final sips, I ask Gabe why the Warburgs are willing to open this beautiful estate to the public. “They just love the combination of wine and art and want to share it,” he responds. Gazing out the windows of this room, we see enticing teases: Pascale Marthine Tayou’s Mikado Tree, which looks like an accumulation of colorful pick-up sticks, is right in our line of sight, and to our left, a small building houses what must be one of the largest Louise Bourgeois Spider sculptures. It is time to don a sun hat and take the walking tour of the Donum collection. The Discovery Experience covers about two-thirds of the works; to see all of the pieces, visitors are advised to book the Explore Experience, which is conducted in an all-terrain vehicle and takes two hours.

As we walk past the large Yayoi Kusama pumpkin, installed in a fountain, Gabe conveys that many of the art acquisitions resulted from the Warburgs’ world travels, their interest in Asian history and their own personal relationships with artists internationally. The polka-dotted Kusama pumpkin is sited in front of the house because, as Gabe notes, “Donum is a place of nourishment, food, wine and good company.”

We head over to the specially-built structure that is home to the Bourgeois Crouching Spider. It is a cool 65 degrees in here in order to stave off rust on the large steel arachnid. A second Bourgeois piece, Mirror, created in cast aluminum, is installed on a nearby wall. Also here, a very large wall piece by Ghanian artist El Anatsui titled Rehearsal, which is composed of recycled materials like liquor bottle caps and makes a statement about waste, the environment and colonialism. We learn that the use of repurposed materials is a common theme in many of the sculptures in this collection.

As we walk past the winery building, the cutting garden, the lavender field and the fenced barn where goats and donkeys move in and out of the hot sun, several things become apparent. This is a working ranch/winery that can boast being both functional and aesthetically beautiful. The sculptures are sited to be a cohesive, organic part of the landscape—so no need for stands or labels.

But it is also clear that many, if not most, of the sculptures make a serious statement about the world today. Gabe imparts that the deliberate placement of three pieces, a Robert Indiana Love (created in red and yellow to reflect the wines produced here), The Words I Love the Most by Egyptian artist Ghada Amer, in which Arabic words relating to love are cast in bronze, and Richard Hudson’s three-story-tall, polished mirrored steel heart entitled Love Me, serve as a counter to many of the other message-laden sculptures. “Even though there are numerous pieces about struggle and oppression,” Gabe explains, “the messages in these pieces cut through it.”

We end our time at Donum at the base of Jaume Plensa’s Sanna, a stunning, monumental head of a young girl with her eyes closed. “In many ways, it references the experience of The Donum Estate—a sensory experience of food, wine and art,” Gabe observes. “Sanna was a traveler,” he points out, “and we enjoy greeting travelers from all over.”

Pan Am Flight 7: True Crime or Accident?

Words by Jordan Greene and Sheri Baer

On the morning of November 8, 1957, 36 passengers and 8 crew members boarded a long-range Boeing 377 Stratocruiser aircraft at San Francisco International Airport. With bags and suitcases packed for the journey, they hugged their loved ones goodbye and took off for Hawaii in what was supposed to be the first leg of a round-the-world flight.
But the plane never arrived.

To this day, Pan American Flight 7—called Clipper
Romance of the Skies—remains one of aviation’s greatest mysteries, and it originated right here on the Peninsula.

Not many personally remember the details of the crash, but there are a few who remain determined to find answers. Ken Fortenberry and Gregg Herken—two men motivated by personal connections to the plane’s disappearance—crossed paths online via a messenger board about 20 years ago. After independently researching the tragedy for decades, they’ve worked together for years since, chasing down potential leads and exhausting every possible library resource and archive.

Was it a mechanical failure? Sabotage? An explosion? Or an act of intentional mass murder-suicide that killed the 44 people on the plane, including 12 from the Bay Area? Having drawn their own conclusions, Ken and Gregg now share a resolve to create a memorial to honor the lives lost.
“To me, for these people, their last good day on Earth was in the San Francisco Bay Area and many of them lived here—this was their home,” explains Ken. “They got on a flight on vacation or business and halfway through the flight, they’re gone. I think that people’s lives are worth more than just a headline in passing.”

At 11:51AM, Pan Am Flight 7 lifted off from SFO. The weather was perfect—clear skies and calm seas. As the 36 passengers settled into their seats, the pilots announced a smooth and easy 10-hour flight to Honolulu. Flight attendants started roaming the cabin to serve champagne, caviar and a seven-course dinner. With tickets for the flight running around $300 at the time, the trip was costly, but a luxurious experience.
At 5:04PM, the pilots radioed to ground control with a routine position report, which they did every hour. But at 6:04PM, there was silence. No check-in. But also no distress call. More time passed, and still not a word. At 6:35PM, Air Traffic Control issued an urgent alert: Pan Am Flight 7 had vanished.

The next day, an intensive air-sea search began. Submarines, aircrafts and all ships near the last reported position of the plane scoured the area. It wasn’t until November 14 that a search plane spotted probable wreckage on radar, which led to the discovery of 19 bodies and debris floating in the middle of the Pacific Ocean, 955 miles northeast of Honolulu. Wristwatches that broke on impact helped pinpoint the moment the plane plummeted into the water, 5:25PM, 21 minutes after the plane’s last routine position report and about 90 miles off course.

Pan Am stewardresses Marie McGrath and Yvonne Alexander

As grieving families waited for answers, the Civil Aeronautics Board launched its investigation into what had happened to Pan Am Flight 7. It took until January 1959 to deliver a disappointing, inconclusive report: It could establish “no probable cause” for the crash.

Ken Fortenberry was living in a brand-new house next to plum orchards and a dairy farm in Santa Clara when he learned that his father, Pan Am 7’s second officer, was missing. Before relocating to Santa Clara, Ken’s family had moved from New York to San Mateo, where William (Bill) Fortenberry played an instrumental role in establishing Shoreview Methodist Church. “My dad loved California, absolutely loved it,” recalls Ken. “It was just a real special place to him.”

Six years old at the time, Ken woke up on a Saturday morning to find his house full of strangers. “I don’t recall specifically the moment my mother told us the plane was missing, but I do recall just being a kid and crying my eyes out,” he says. Ken remembers his mother saying, “Your dad’s a great swimmer, Son. They’re gonna find them somewhere.” His father’s body was never recovered.

Although 65 years have passed, Ken remains grateful that happy recollections also linger, including camping trips with his father to Yosemite and Clear Lake. ”He’d always talk about how proud he was of us three boys,” Ken says. “My dad was gone for lengthy periods of time flying, but when he was home, he was also home for weeks at a time. And those weeks were memory-makers for us.” After the crash, Ken’s family moved back to South Carolina to be closer to his mother’s family. As he grew up, he turned to old letters his dad had written from overseas. “He was a prodigious writer,” Ken notes. “And those letters became my dad talking to me.”

In 1957, Gregg Herken had recently moved to San Mateo from Denver and was having a hard time fitting in at his new school. “I had a buckskin coat and I thought it was the coolest thing, but it made me stand out,” he recounts. Marie McGrath, Gregg’s substitute teacher at Sunnybrae Elementary, quietly suggested to his parents that he “ditch the coat.” Not much later, Gregg showed up to school in a new San Francisco Giants jacket. “I wore that to school and suddenly, I was popular,” he reminisces. “I owe Marie McGrath for that.”

A Pan Am stewardess, Marie doubled as a substitute teacher, a common second career during aviation downtime. Gregg, who graduated from Aragon High School in 1965, recalls Marie sharing stories of her adventures and bringing food from the Clipper for a class luau. “She told us about Hawaii,” he recollects, “and for a fourth-grader who had just moved from Denver, this was very exotic stuff.” Marie also substituted at Abbott Middle School, where Gregg’s mom worked as a secretary.

Gregg was sitting in class when the principal announced over the PA system that Miss McGrath’s plane was missing. “At the time, I just imagined it flying into a cloud and not coming out again,” he remembers. “I’ve always felt grateful to Marie for what she did, for helping me adjust to my new life as a kid in California.”

In addition to William Fortenberry and Marie McGrath, who lived in Burlingame, the majority of Pan Am 7’s crew was based in the San Francisco Bay Area. “Pan American had a huge presence in San Francisco with thousands of employees,” notes Ken.

Through his research, Ken also came to know the backstories of Bay Area passengers. “They were all fascinating people,” he relays, as he summarizes some of the anecdotal details. Ruby Quong of San Francisco resigned her position as a registered nurse two days before the flight to travel to Hong Kong to care for her ailing mother. Edward Ellis, an executive with McCormick spices who lived in Hillsborough, was traveling to Honolulu to address a U.S. Chamber of Commerce convention. San Mateo machinery repairman Fred Choy planned to visit his seriously ill father in Hawaii. Louis Rodriguez, a San Francisco surgical orderly and father of three, was en route to his mother’s funeral. Pan Am pilot Robert Alexander and his wife and three children, who lived in Los Altos, heard Honolulu’s palm trees and lapping waves beckoning. “He was just a pilot on vacation,” Ken grimaces, “but they died. They all lost their lives.”

Extending beyond the Bay Area, Ken connected with a Michigan woman named Norma Clack, whose uncle was traveling with his wife and four children. “They were going back to Tokyo where he was an executive with Dow Chemical Company. They were all lost.” For years, Ken kept a picture of the Clack family on his desk: “Just to remind me, ‘You’re not doing this just for you, Ken, you’re doing this for these other families that have no closure.’”

Ken Fortenberry recalls the exact moment that triggered his maniacal campaign to find answers. When he was 13, he wrote a letter to the Civil Aeronautics Board, asking for updates on the crash investigation. “I got a bureaucratic BS response just kissing me off,” he recounts—essentially nothing had been done on the case in seven years. “I remember walking back to my house from the mailbox, just mad as hell. And at that point, I vowed as a kid that I’m gonna find out what happened to that plane if it takes me the rest of my life.”

Committed to a formidable goal, Ken faced a tough slog in the decades immediately following the crash. “You gotta remember that we didn’t have the Internet back in those days,” he says. Even tracking down an address was challenging, but Ken wrote every letter he could. “And long-distance telephone calls cost a fortune,” he points out. “I’ve been to every library you can imagine; I’ve been to archives everywhere and I kept every note I ever made on this thing from the time I was a kid.” Admittedly influenced by his childhood trauma, Ken ultimately became an editor and award-winning investigative journalist—with one constant thread: “Every spare moment I had growing up and even as an adult, I always researched this plane crash.”

Meanwhile, Gregg Herken launched his own obsessive investigation after starting work as a curator at the National Air and Space Museum in 1988. With the National Transportation Safety Board located across the street, he recognized an opportunity to discover what had happened to Marie’s plane. “I found that it was actually one of the outstanding aviation mysteries,” he says, before explaining that there were three prime suspects in the case: “One was the purser who was suicidal and who had left a copy of his changed will in the glove box of the car that he parked at the airport. The other was a passenger who bought a one-way ticket to Hawaii and three insurance policies on himself and was deeply in debt. The third was a problem with the propellers, which were prone to overspeed and had caused problems before.”

Reporters and Navy officers inspect debris recovered from the crash site

As their individual investigations progressed, thankfully so did technology. “Really, the advent of the Internet brought the story alive and made it much more possible to chase down leads,” underscores Ken. It also made it possible for the two Pan Am 7 sleuths to find each other. About 20 years ago, Ken posted a request for information on a messenger board. “And Gregg responded, ‘Hey, I’m interested in this case too!’” Gregg flew down to North Carolina to meet Ken, and “we struck it off from the very beginning and have been research colleagues ever since.”

Even as a 13-year-old, Ken thinks writing a book was always in the back of his mind. In 2020, he published the culmination of his life’s work: Flight 7 is Missing: The Search for My Father’s Killer. Over the years, he had waffled back and forth on the mystery, often for decades at a time. Initially focused on mechanical issues, he uncovered the story of William Payne, a former Navy frogman who had bought a one-way ticket and an excessive amount of life insurance before the crash. He also dug into the background of another potential suspect, Eugene Crosthwaite, a disgruntled Pan Am purser from Felton. With each new clue, Ken would find his perspective shifting. “One minute, I’d think it was an accident,” he acknowledges. “Next thing, I’d think Payne blew it up and then next thing, Crosthwaite blew it up.” In his quest for answers, Ken futilely reached out to Crosthwaite’s stepdaughter, Tania, who he says, “stiffed me for decades.”

And then he got a Facebook message out of the blue: “I think it’s about time we talk.” Ken flew to Houston to meet Tania the next day. “She pretty much laid it out that her stepdad was suicidal and out of his mind,” recounts Ken, who now blames Eugene Crosthwaite for his father’s death. “The information she gave me helped me paint more of a picture and I had a forensic psychologist weigh in on it. And he pretty much concluded what I did as well.”

However, Gregg, now a retired history professor living in Santa Cruz, reached a different conclusion. “I think it was a catastrophic mechanical failure,” he conjectures. “There was a similar incident a few years before with the same type of plane where the propeller spun out. They almost lost control of the plane but were able to make an emergency landing on an island. I think that something very similar could have happened in this case.”

Image: Courtesy of Ken Fortenberry

Having exhausted every resource available, the two are comfortably reconciled with the “agree to disagree” investigative outcome. “We have our opinions,” observes Ken, noting that no one will know for certain until they get to the bottom of the ocean and find the plane. “Gregg’s just a great friend and for him to be by my side all these years has been very special.”

As the wreckage of Clipper Romance of the Skies degrades on the seafloor, memories of the ill-fated plane also fade over time. With no burial site to visit, Ken and Gregg believe it’s imperative that the precious lives lost aren’t forgotten. “This crash did a lot to change safety regulations and expectations for aviation,” states Ken. “This was home to so many of them, and I just think their lives need to be remembered in some way.”

Ken created the Pan Am Flight 7 Memorial Committee with the goal of establishing a permanent tribute to the 44 victims. With GoFundMe and Facebook pages set up to educate and raise money, all that remained was finding an appropriate setting for the plaque. After tireless and often frustrating outreach efforts, the Memorial Committee finally found a warm reception in Millbrae. In late July, the City Council agreed to the placement of a memorial within the city, likely in Marina Vista Park, just across 101 from SFO. With the 65th anniversary of the crash being commemorated this year, Ken and Gregg eagerly anticipate the unveiling of a formal memorial, which will permanently cement the flight’s Bay Area ties. “I just feel so close to San Francisco, even today,” reflects Ken. “That’s where I left my heart. That’s where I left my dad.”

Spreading the Love: Nut Butters

Words by Anni Golding

When Guili Glassman, founder of Belmont-based Alma Superfoods, won a Good Food Award for her Aji Yellow Pepper & Cashew Butter spread earlier this year, it was a milestone for the Peruvian-born entrepreneur. “I felt so proud—I cried!” she recalls. She also felt honored to represent her culture and to be able, through her business, to tell the story of the diversity of Latin American ingredients. For Guili, that story began in her mother’s kitchen.

Guili’s mother, a self-taught cook who had an affinity for baking, ran a successful catering business in Cusco, and young Guili was her apprentice. “She was very determined with her business and very passionate,” Guili says of her mother. “She always strived to give her best.”

Although Guili inherited her mother’s passion for food and business, a love of science led her to pursue a university education in biochemistry and pharmacy. But as she completed her degree, Guili recalls, “it ended up that my love for food was stronger.” She enrolled in a hotel administration program to learn about food and beverage management and started building a career in hospitality.

A job opportunity with Hilton Hotels and a long-distance relationship brought Guili to San Francisco in 2006. She had met Jon Glassman in Cusco five years earlier, while both were university students and Jon was in Peru for an internship. They stayed in touch after he returned to the U.S., and a romance developed. In 2008, as the couple was preparing for their wedding, Guili received some heart-rending news: her mother had stomach cancer, and the prognosis was dire. Guili and Jon reorganized their wedding plans and were married in Cusco.

Losing her mother inspired Guili to learn more about nutrition and to augment her culinary education by earning a degree through Le Cordon Bleu. “I wanted to understand better the fundamentals of cooking,” she explains. “I knew I had the base from my mom, but for me, it also was kind of an homage to her to have this degree.”

By 2015, Guili was ready to start her own food business, which she initially named Chef Salud. (Salud is Spanish for “health.”) She had in mind a line of marinades, but as she was working on the business plan, research sparked other ideas. Deciding to focus not only on creating healthy products, but also incorporating the culinary heritage of Latin America, led to the idea of making spreads.

The company name, which had a lost-in-pronunciation problem (non-Spanish speakers heard it as “Chef Salad”) also got a do-over. The new name—Alma Superfoods—was inspired by Peninsula thoroughfare, Alma Street. Translated from Spanish, “alma” can mean soul, spirit, heart or nourishing. “I was thinking about feeling the soul of my mom,” Guili recalls. “And everything you do with heart and soul.” Superfoods signaled Guili’s commitment to healthful ingredients.

The idea to create nut butters from tree nuts, rather than peanuts, came down to a matter of taste. Peanut butter isn’t a common food in Peru, and Guili didn’t grow up eating it. It turns out she’s not a fan of the sticky spread. The taste of almond butter, on the other hand, “was a 180-degree difference for me,” she says. Guili began making her own nut butters at home, pairing them with different flavors.

Finding ways to add sweetness without added sugar was a priority. She turned to lucuma, a favorite fruit native to Peru with a low glycemic index, as a natural sweetener and found it to be a perfect pairing with almond butter. The combination became the prototype for a nut butter line that highlights Latin ingredients.

In addition to Lucuma & Almond Butter, the collection includes the award-winning Aji Yellow Pepper & Cashew Butter, Chipotle Pepper & Cashew Butter and Cacao & Hazelnut Butter. For Guili, aji amarillo was a natural choice for a savory spread, as the spicy yellow pepper is a fundamental ingredient in Peruvian cooking. Smoky, sweet chipotle pepper is featured in Alma Superfoods’ other savory nut butter. “I really enjoy the flavor, and it is kind of the representation of Mexican identity,” she notes. Rounding out the product line is the indulgent Cacao & Hazelnut Butter, a low-sugar take on Nutella®. Guili wants customers to think beyond toast when enjoying her products. “Nut butters are very versatile and easy to use,” she notes. “That’s why I really like spreads and dips; you can just play with them in so many ways.”

Currently, Guili is focused on getting her products into more stores. Production is still a hands-on affair, with Guili and an assistant making everything at Kitchen 519 in Belmont. Having honed the mission of her business during the pandemic, Guili is also working on a rebrand to identify Alma Superfoods as a Latina business “and emphasizing more about the culture and how these ingredients can be infused in food that people love,” she says.

Looking ahead, Guili envisions including jams and cherry coffee tea—a low-caffeine, eco-conscious beverage made from the skin of coffee beans—among Alma Superfoods’ offerings. “I have this idea to become the Whole Foods of Latin American ingredients and foods,” she shares. “I want to elevate the perception of the gastronomy and the ingredients.”
As to what she thinks her mother would say of Alma Superfoods’ success, Guili says, “I think, hopefully, she would be proud of what I’ve accomplished so far.”

Out in the Plein Air: A Painter’s Walk on the Wild Side

Words by Johanna Harlow

Look—now look again. The art of unseeing the supposed-to’s is imperative for artists… and something plein air painter Ellen Howard knows well. “I think as an artist, one of the biggest things to learn is how to correctly see,” says the San Mateo artist, who dedicates herself to capturing ever-changing landscapes as they unfold in real time.

Unlearn those “lollipop trees,” she advises, “Really quiet your mind down to actually see the exact shape of the tree, the exact outline. Nature is pretty irregular in a lot of ways. And that’s the beauty of it. You don’t always want something that’s symmetrical and perfectly done.” It’s a value reflected on her website: “I favor the irregularity of nature,” Ellen writes, “ragged rocks, knotty tree trunks, peeling bark and muddy waters of the marshlands.”

Ellen’s passion for painting “plein air” (French for “in the open air”) draws her to idyllic stretches of sand along Pescadero, shady sections of aspens in the Sierra and flurries of flowers at the Half Moon Bay Nursery—though today she’s ensconced in her cozy Art Bias studio in San Carlos surrounded by the painted memories of past excursions. “Usually, I go out to the field to get a composition and study the colors.” Ellen twirls her brush as she eyes her latest scene on the easel. “Then I come back to the studio and, if I like what I’ve done, I see if I want to size it up or change something from my photos.” Under her touch, a palatte awash with inky ocean blue, cerulean and sea surf white is becoming a Carmel coastline.

That artistic eye runs in the family. Ellen’s mom dabbled in watercolors. Her grandfather was a cartoonist. “He got offered a job at Walt Disney, but he ended up working for the airlines,” she says. Even so, he found ways to channel his inner creative. Ellen recalls marveling at his illustrations of people from around the world in traditional garb, sketches he made while traveling as a steward. He also did advertising. “He would draw a big jumbo airplane with a man sitting on top of it with a TWA hat,” she describes.

When Ellen joined the workforce, she didn’t start as a full-time artist either. Actually, her first career was in finance. But when her kids were older, she became the gallery coordinator at Notre Dame de Namur University in Belmont. After that, she moved to the role of assistant curator at the Peninsula Art Museum. “So I kind of always had my hands in art, but I wasn’t exactly doing it myself, you know?” she shares, smoothing her black apron, speckled with paint.

That changed after she joined her friend for a painting class in 2007. Enchanted by the artform, she signed up for more. After a while, she began applying to shows. And receiving acceptances. And winning awards. Soon, Ellen’s work was getting featured in Plein Air Magazine and Fine Art Connoisseur. Today, her landscape paintings can be bought at the Holton Studio Gallery in Berkeley and Rieser Fine Art in Carmel. For the past five years, she’s also been included in the California Art Club’s Annual Gold Medal Exhibition (an organization she has recently joined as Vice President of Programming as well as co-chair for the SF chapter). “I wouldn’t have foreseen from my first art class that I would be in galleries and teaching and doing workshops,” Ellen smiles.

In addition to providing in-studio instruction (with offerings at Burlingame’s Art Attack! and an upcoming still life class at the new Burlingame Community Center), Ellen regularly invites students to join her in the field. Locations range from Filoli to Carmel to the Mendocino Coast. “I think art is very uplifting and it gets you out of your own way. It’s very meditative and I like sharing that,” she notes. “It’s also gratifying to see a student get a concept and progress in their skill level.”

Even now, Ellen continues to curate. She finds that two essentials of a strong show are finding a good theme and including a range of styles. “I’m thinking about artists that would have a different twist,” she explains. “You don’t want your exhibition to be the same. So an oil painter, a pastelist, a watercolorist. Architecture, figurative, landscape. I want a blend.” For a Pleasanton exhibition that’s currently underway, all works revolve around differing interpretations of life’s transitions—from the time of day to the shifting of the seasons to the stages of life.

Ellen’s own style has shifted recently. She describes one of her latest pieces, Vibrant Hues, as more impressionistic. “It was a marshland scene, but the trees were kind of blues and purples and it was more orangey and pink with the sunset. I kind of pushed the color a little bit more. So I’m trying to think of more innovative ways to represent nature.”

As for favorite environments? Ellen finds herself drawn time and time again to marshlands and ocean coasts. “I love painting with my shoes off and my feet in the sand,” she reflects, adding that she enjoys capturing “the energy of the waves.” Like her paintings Restless Waters and Winter Surge, which both capture a wave as it breaks on the rocks in a spectacular spray of sea foam.

And then, of course, there’s the light. “Seeing the light move across the land,” she describes on her website, “cascading off a mountain range, streaming through the leaves, dancing on the top of the waves and creating a beautiful ray of warmth in the sky and clouds is pure serenity.”

Capturing a moment in time isn’t easy, Ellen notes. Clouds shift. Shadows move. “You can be overwhelmed by the amount of information in the scene,” she points out. “You need to pick and choose the elements that will create a cohesive painting.” It’s also important not to chase the light, to keep your values consistent. “I like to take a photo of the scene, especially if I am painting clouds and they are moving quickly across the sky. Sticking to your original plan when you paint is important.”

It’s well worth the challenge, Ellen assures. “There’s just something about being outside, being in the fresh air,” she muses. “A photo is great to work with as a reference in your studio, but it makes a huge difference to actually go out and see what you’re looking at. The colors are truer when you’re out there in person. You can see the shadow colors better—how the light’s hitting an object.”

There are also fun interactions with the passersby her art attracts. “There’s so many times when I’m painting and I look down and there’s a seal watching me,” Ellen laughs. Nothing like an audience of otters and seagulls routinely checking in on your progress to keep you accountable.

 

Heritage Hunter

Words by Johanna Harlow

From the outside, PlaceMakers might pass as your run-of-the-mill San Carlos warehouse—albeit a welcoming one with a cheery coat of barn-red paint. But step inside and the first thing you’ll notice are the vintage chandeliers. Victorian brass with glass bells. Wrought iron wagon wheels with candles. Dangly tiers of teardrops. Crystal beaded domes. They collectively shimmer below the corrugated metal roof in all their stately grandeur like grand ladies at court.

When you manage to pry your eyes from the ceiling, you’ll find an entire treasure trove of salvaged building materials and artifacts (many of them antique) filling the space. Clawfoot bathtubs and stained glass windows. Boxes of keys and boxes of doorknobs. A turn-of-the-20th-century wrought iron Juliet balcony. A Victorian roll-top secretary desk. Enough doors to inspire a symphony of knocking. Together, these reclaimed relics rival the collections of many a history museum.

The visionary and mastermind here is Palo Alto native James Dawes. Founding PlaceMakers in 1995, James began offering a full range of general contracting services, spanning demolition to ground-up development. Inspired by the one-of-a-kind items he found on sites, James also decided to start selling salvaged materials and artifacts. Like hulking mahogany column pillars from a bank demolition. “I never know what I’m gonna find,” James chuckles. “It’s an adventure.”

Greatly influenced by his environmental studies at UC Santa Cruz, James was impacted by assigned reading like Martin Pawley’s Building for Tomorrow: Putting Waste to Work. He dedicated his thesis to building a house out of repurposed materials in Jamaica. “Everything is super expensive there because they have to import it,” James explains. “Everything comes in on the boat. So for people to build anything there, it’s really challenging.”

The PlaceMakers name actually maps back to his college years. “There was a lot of talk even then about not just making buildings, but making places, and the idea that place kind of incorporated stories,” he says. In other words, it’s never just a window or a door. It’s the feelings you attach to them. “Things are new for a day. And after that, the story starts,” he observes.

Over the years, James’ salvaging skills have elevated to an artform. When out in the field, his experienced eye seeks out specific qualities. “There’s the artistry and the craft with which it’s made,” James muses as he walks past retro sinks and wall sconces, ship lanterns and portholes, vintage coat hooks and numerous other artifacts weighty with the significance of their past lives. “Did the maker know what they were doing?” he asks himself. “Is it well done?”

He also looks for items with “energy” to them. “Like a piece of old-growth lumber that took a hundred years to grow, rather than the stuff at Home Depot,” he clarifies. “There’s actual, real energy there. That took a long time!” Just outside his showroom, James stores a fort’s worth of reclaimed lumber. Piled on towering racks, these include beams from an old copper mine, redwood from the historic Tunnel 13 railroad structure at the Oregon-California border and (rumor has it) timber from ballistic missile silos. “All that redwood that was once a beautiful forest is still out there but it’s got paint on it,” he notes. “It’s in walls. It’s bridges. You just have to know how to look for it. It’s there.”

“History is part of it too,” James adds of his search criteria. He motions to a door from the Hayes Mansion, the residence of the family that founded the San Jose Mercury News. He’s also salvaged finds from glamorous historical landmarks like San Francisco’s Le Petit Trianon and Hillsborough’s Carolands Chateau—as well as spookier spots like Santa Clara’s Agnews Development Center (formerly known as “The Great Asylum for the Insane”). One of his prized possessions (not for sale) is a hulking wraparound desk built from the cedar of a pipe organ’s swell box.

Unrivaled is James’ fondness for tile. Extracting them takes the right tools, a lot of coaxing and plenty of patience. “It’s very tempting to just try and pry or chisel them off,” he notes. “Anybody can take a light fixture off the wall or take a door off. But to get tile out is tricky.” In fact, he credits the material as playing a hand in his career path. After trying to sell vintage tile to a salvage yard from an early demolition job—and being offered a paltry 75 cents per piece—James decided to hold on to them. “That wouldn’t have even paid my gas and bridge toll to take them over,” he recalls. Later, at a tile lecture, the presenter informed him that his find was actually worth $20 to $40 a tile.

James is always on the lookout for ceramic gold by “the Greats” of the Arts and Crafts era. “Beginning in England in the late 19th century, there was a revival of hand-craftsmanship in direct contrast to what was considered ‘soulless’ machine-generated productions that were a product of The Industrial Revolution,” he writes on the PlaceMakers blog. Later, California tile makers followed suit. “We had a couple of top-notch tile manufacturers in the Bay Area, S&S being one,” remarks James as he picks up a yellow and turquoise tile and flips it over to reveal the S&S logo. “I actually bought this at a garage sale.”

He’s also a huge Pedro Joseph de Lemos fan. De Lemos not only handcrafted tile and designed the facades of many local buildings (including the Allied Arts Guild in Menlo Park), he also served as museum and art gallery director at Stanford University for nearly 30 years. What’s more, his Palo Alto home incorporated reclaimed materials from the college campus after the earthquake. “It’s an amazing story of salvaged materials,” James notes.

As he wraps up his walk-through of PlaceMakers’ carefully curated collection, James pauses in the shadow of a hulking 10-foot mahogany door from an 1800s mansion and brushes his hand across the wood. “The most incredible thing is, it never got painted in 140 years,” he marvels of this untarnished treasure. “People painted everything. I mean, at some point in a hundred years, somebody’s usually going to paint it white. But it made it.”

Landmark: Stanford Memorial Church

Words by Jordan Greene

Tilt your head up inside Stanford Memorial Church and you’ll discover Mary, Joseph, Sally and Billy—cherubs with faces resembling the children of university staff who lived on campus during the time the church was built. Jane Lathrop Stanford hired 28-year-old architect Charles A. Coolidge to design the church as a memorial to her late husband Leland Stanford. Construction began in January 1900 with the church envisioned as a nondenominational place of peace standing in the center of the university’s campus. An avid traveler and admirer of European art, Jane drew inspiration from the Piazza San Marco in Venice. After befriending the owner of A. Salviati & Co., a famous mosaic shop in Venice, Mrs. Stanford commissioned him to make a replica of Cosimo Roselli’s fresco of The Last Supper from the Sistine Chapel in the Vatican for the university’s new church. The mosaics were made in Venice, shipped by boat in pieces to New York and then by railroad to California. However, not long after the church opened in 1903, it was heavily damaged by the 1906 earthquake. To preserve the building, the church was disassembled. Each piece was labeled with a number, and the church was reconstructed section by section in a process that took until 1916 to finish. The 80-foot steeple that collapsed in the earthquake was never replaced. “While my whole heart is in the university, my soul is in that church,” Mrs. Stanford once remarked. Today, Stanford Memorial Church continues to play an integral role on campus as a time-honored setting for services, memorials, weddings and concerts.

Home Makeover Match

Words by Jennifer Jory

With experience in welding steel, sculpting, oil painting and drawing, designer Dawn Mitchell’s creative bent came full circle when she married her Aragon High School sweetheart, builder and craftsman Will Mitchell. Together, they make up a one-stop design-build team in San Mateo. As the Peninsula’s own home renovation couple, the Mitchells seem straight out of central casting; however, unlike trendy TV celebrity remodelers, they have been solving real problems for sophisticated local clients for decades.

When Dawn and Will sit down for dinner, the conversation often shifts into a brainstorming session about space planning or lighting ideas. They possess a tool kit of creative talents and ease of communication unique to married people in business. “She calls me several times a day,” says Will, without a hint of exasperation. “She can always get a hold of me. The first 50 jobs, she proposed a color palette that I would question. Now I just listen. Her choice always works.”

Born and raised in San Mateo, Will honed his carpentry skills while attending college. Meanwhile, Dawn pursued a fine arts degree at UCLA. As Will started to grow his business, WMM Construction, Inc. he began to lean on Dawn’s expertise. Soon, she launched Dawn Leslie Interiors. “I had so much creative energy! I had to put it somewhere,” Dawn recounts. “I was painting everything I could get my hands on and sewing draperies for clients.”

After their first of four daughters was born, Dawn began drawing plans for Will’s projects. “When we started working together, she introduced woven metal cabinet doors,” Will recalls. “The types of metal and applied mixed mediums she used in interior spaces were so unique.”

As Will and Dawn partnered to transform homes on the Peninsula for their clients, their household of four young girls in San Mateo’s Highlands neighborhood evolved quickly as well. Creative juices constantly flowed, and the kitchen table was full of sewing and crafts, in addition to school volunteer projects. “Everything was over the top,’’ remarks Will. “We built floats for Highlands community parades with butterflies waving 14-foot moveable wings.” They also constructed stage sets for San Mateo schools and 8’ x 10’ birdhouses draped with tenting for school fundraisers. All the while, Dawn sewed costumes for Borel Middle School and Aragon plays late into the night.

In their spare time, the Mitchells volunteer their professional skills, with Dawn designing rooms for the SolMateo Kitchen Tour and Will giving local churches a hand on mission trips. They recently enjoyed updating their own house, adding a deck and guest room that expanded and improved their use of space. “It was definitely a collaboration,” stresses Will. “We needed to go under the canopy of the oak trees and drop the deck down the hillside.” Even with a new granddaughter and another grandchild on the way, the busy pair enjoy talking shop over dinner. “We discuss projects at home and because we live together, there are no time constraints,” shares Will. “I tell Dawn, ‘Describe what you want and I will make it happen.’”

Hillsborough Team-Up

Dawn and Will recently completed a kitchen and master bath remodel for a Spanish Revival home in Hillsborough. In partnership with general contractor Loerke & Cresci, Dawn also designed the interior of the home’s new modern pool house.

pool house

Dawn chose neutral color furniture and bronze window trim, which effectively highlight the pool and landscape view from the inside. Folding doors open seamlessly to enhance the indoor/outdoor flow. The guest house offers a master bedroom and bunk room for four with drawers that pull out in between the bunk ladder rungs to maximize storage.

pool house bathroom

Playing off an aqua color theme, Dawn selected a Victoria + Albert tub in a vibrant turquoise for the master bath accented by an Ellen Gunn painting. “I found beautiful tiles and thought it would be fun to create a striped beach towel look on the fireplace and shower walls,” she says. “I combined marble limestone and turquoise glazed basalt.”

MAIN HOUSE

Will applied his carpentry expertise to combine an original kitchen, laundry and butler’s pantry into an expanded butler’s pantry and kitchen. To refresh the heart of the home, the custom cabinets by Village were painted in a high-gloss, off-white finish with walnut details and a laser-cut application. Will added an island, finished with the same Dolce Vita quartzite countertops used throughout the kitchen and accented by a long, traditional fixture with built-in task lighting overhead. The kitchen features walnut open shelves and herringbone tumbled smoke limestone flooring. Tabarka Studio supplied the terracotta tile with a textured Arabesque pattern behind the Crosswater London range. “It was a big transformation,” notes Dawn. “I wanted it to have a modern Mediterranean feel.”

Our Wild Side: Face to Face

Words and photography by Robert David Siegel

Every now and then, when I am out in nature, I lock eyes with a wild creature. Of course, these experiences are not what they seem. Animals see, perceive and think about the world very differently than humans. Even knowing this, such moments are quite magical and awe-inspiring. And I greatly value these face-to-face encounters.

Mule deer (Odocoileus hemionus) are common on the Peninsula, and they have become habituated to humans. Though still wary, they can be approached with slow, non-threatening movements. Clearly watchful of the photographer, deer and other grazers have eyes that point sideways, so they are aware of possible threats in a wide field of view.

Most people identify this as a bee of some sort. It is actually a type of flower fly or more generally, a hoverfly. I first became aware of hoverflies from a student presentation in my “Photographing Nature” class. As one might expect, they are notable for their hovering in midair—often a few feet from where we are walking. They are quite ubiquitous around the Peninsula and beyond.

The Sierran tree frog or chorus frog (Pseudacris sierra) comes in a variety of colors and inhabits a wide range of elevations from sea level to 10,000 feet in the Sierra. Also true to its name, this is the frog that is often heard on the Peninsula. However, it falls silent when people approach, so it is most easily located by sight. To find them, it helps to think about where a frog might like to hang out.

The pallid-winged grasshopper (Trimerotropis pallidipennis) is a master of camouflage. Grasshoppers are generally sensitive to movement. We most often notice them when they jump or fly. By approaching slowly, low to the ground, I can often get a few inches away with my macro lens or even with a phone camera.

California newts are conspicuous, slow and clumsy, often stumbling over small bumps in the terrain. They appear to be quite vulnerable, but they have a secret weapon. They are among the most poisonous of creatures (when ingested) with a potent neurotoxin called tetrodotoxin—best known as the poison in pufferfish. If threatened, rough-skinned newts show off their orange bellies to warn would-be predators.

Insect eyes, like of this Pacific forktail damselfly (Ischnura cervula), evolved very differently from human and other vertebrate eyes. With faceted compound eyes composed of smaller, independent visual units called ommatidia, their kaleidoscopic view of the photographer must be quite distinct from what we are seeing.

Coyotes (Canis latrans) are common on the Peninsula in parks and open spaces and they will also wander through the suburbs in search of food. This coyote, near the Stanford Knoll, is proudly showing off breakfast. A close relative of domestic dogs (Canis familiaris), coyotes and other predators have eyes that focus ahead. But unlike humans, coyotes and other canids lack color vision and rely on smell to augment their view of the world.

Eastern gray squirrels (Sciurus carolinensis), including the black melanistic variant, are successful invaders that have displaced many local tree squirrel species. Like deer, squirrel eyes are oriented to the side. Though squirrels will often pose for photos, they will quickly scurry away when the photographer intrudes on their safety zone.

My remarkable encounter with this California towhee (Melozone crissalis) lasted for more than five minutes and was part of my motivation for selecting this Face to Face theme. Although the California towhee is disparagingly referred to as an LBJ (little brown jobbie), my experience left me with a new appreciation for the personality and subtle beauty of these birds.

The Pacific gopher snake (Pituophis catenifer) is a large non-venomous snake with adults reaching 4-5 feet or longer. Their size, coloration and even a tendency to raise and shake their tails may give a hiker pause. While the protruding forked tongue may look ominous, it is actually a powerful chemosensory tool that the snake is using to smell the environment.

Sunflower Fields Forever

Words by Sheri Baer

Summer slides into fall on the Peninsula, splashing the coast with sunflower fields forever… or at least over an acre and a half at Andreotti Family Farms. It’s peak bloom time for this Half Moon Bay family business, an agricultural legacy spanning generations.

As Frank Andreotti tells it, his grandfather, Dino Andreotti Sr., immigrated from Italy after being sponsored by a cousin. He found work as a laborer in Half Moon Bay and started farming this land in 1926. Planting artichokes, cabbage and broccoli, Dino and his wife, Julia, saved up enough money to buy the 80-acre farm in the 1940s. Soon, Andreotti became one of the first farms to join the Farmers Market movement, selling produce in San Francisco. In the 1970s, their son Dino and his wife Terri took the reins, specializing in winter vegetables—including 30 different varietals of pumpkins and edible squash.

“Our main income is growing row crops, vegetables, and then marketing them to restaurants, wholesale markets and to retail—to the local neighborhood farmers markets every Saturday and Sunday,” explains Frank, the next generation to take the helm.

Frank grew up here and still savors the sweet memories of his childhood. He remembers playing in the creek, taking the goats on walks and making pretend castles out of old wooden packing crates. “Growing up on the farm, there was a lot more freedom,” he reflects, adding that he relishes his role as a caretaker of the land. “What I do for a living, I don’t think of it as work. Since I was a little kid, I was told I was born with a green thumb.”

Or a yellow thumb, in the case of the farm’s brilliant rows of sunflowers, which have become a backdrop for countless outings, photo shoots and even proposals. “I’ve been planting sunflowers since I was a teenager,” Frank says of Andreotti’s now-famous fall crop. “My folks didn’t ask me to do it, but since I was planting the corn and the pumpkins, I thought I’d add some sunflowers to the mix.”

The idea of a u-pick (or photo op) field wasn’t even on Frank’s mind when he planted the first seeds. “It was just because I love sunflowers,” he says. “Now they can’t stop calling us: ‘When are the sunflowers going to be ready?’ ‘When is the season going to open?’”

The answer is September and October. Although the farm sells veggies year-round, fall is the most festive time to visit with expanded offerings. This includes not only the sunflower fields, but a corn maze, a pumpkin patch and a brimming farmstand of local produce. “We’re among the last family farms in the Bay Area that provide an atmosphere where the public can come out and experience life on a working farm,” notes Frank. “And I get to be out in the open and in the sun all day long, enjoying what I do for a living.”

The Pumpkins

Feelin’ gourd? Familiar with dozens of varietals of squash, Frank is a bit of an expert at what makes the ideal Halloween pumpkin. “You have to have a uniformity,” Frank advises, “a uniform pumpkin with dark skin—and then a strong handle. That’s what makes the pumpkin decorative. A pumpkin with a broken-off or stubby stem is not as attractive.”

The Farmstand

Though Andreotti Family Farms started out with artichokes, broccoli and cabbage—at one point committing all 80 acres to artichoke production—these days they offer an entire cornucopia of produce. “We started to diversify,” Frank explains, “like cauliflower, Swiss chard, zucchini, green beans, dry beans, fennel, different types of lettuce, celery, celery root, golden beets, red beets and all the varieties of different Halloween pumpkins and squash.” During any given week, Andreotti’s produce can be found at four farmers markets including the College of San Mateo and Belmont CalTrain Lot, along with the family’s Friday-Sunday roadside farmstand.

The Sunflower Fields

Is there anything as warm and welcoming as a sunflower? Andreotti grows numerous varietals (ranging from Mammoth Grey Stripes to Black Oil), each with golden petals like rays of sunshine. So go ahead and wade into the sunflower sea and load your arms with a bouquet worthy of the season. “They’re so vibrant,” Frank says of the farm’s acre and a half of blooms. “They bring out the yellow contrast against the green of the corn. It makes for a beautiful landscape.”

The Corn Maze

Ready for a challenge? Pit your internal GPS against the Andreotti 10-acre corn puzzle. “It’s all in my head,” Frank says of creating the seasonal maze of maize. “I get on my tractor with a flail mower and I just come up with a design. I don’t think it out—I know the lay of the land.” As the corn stalks stretch over your head, weave through the rows until you emerge out the other side, victorious. Usually. “I’ve had a couple customers in the past years who called my phone number and said, ‘Hey, we’re lost!’ But that’s what a corn maze is supposed to be about, right?” chuckles Frank.

800 Cabrillo Highway, Half Moon Bay
andreottifamilyfarms.net

Perfect Shot: Wunderlich Meadow

“One of the favorite walks I take with my friend, Randy, is at Wunderlich Park in Woodside. We always do the Meadows Loop,” shares Menlo Park’s Robb Most. On a recent outing, Randy pointed out the interesting waves of grass, fog and hills, which inspired Robb to capture this Perfect Shot. “They say the best camera is the one you have and so I took it with my iPhone,” adds Robb. “It made me realize that I should look for photos even when I don’t have a camera in my hands.”

Image by Robb Most

Just In Time

Words by Sloane Citron

My brother-in-law, David, and his wife, Dalia, live in Re’ut in the center of Israel and have three strapping boys in a home dominated by sports, exercise and games. The kids always seem to be in constant competition, morning through night. We made it to the oldest boy Shai’s bar mitzvah but we didn’t make his brother Adi’s occasion. We were determined not to miss the youngest son Tomer’s event scheduled for July 18, 2022. Almost a year in advance, airline tickets were bought and hotel reservations were made.

Then, last December, my daughter Tali surprised us with the wonderful news that she was pregnant with her third child, the first two barely out of diapers. After a few doctor’s visits and some calculations, Tali’s due date was estimated to be July 12, which led us to wonder how this all might work out.

Of course, Tali and her family were going to miss the bar mitzvah, and so would her mother. But the rest of us kept our plans. My son, Josh, and his wife and children would be there as well as my daughter, Arielle, her husband and children, along with our Israeli son, Coby. I scheduled my own travel dates for July 13 to July 24.

A bar mitzvah in Israel is usually different than in the U.S. Since there is a general sense of living the religion and speaking the language (even among the secular), it is not the herculean effort that it is for a child here. Most boys read a bit of the Torah and then have a simple party right at the synagogue immediately after the service. But it is still an important milestone and we wanted to be there to support Tomer and to visit Coby.
With luck, I had successfully guessed the correct sex of my first six grandchildren, and I felt certain that Tali and Sam were going to have a girl.

Plus, with four grandsons and two granddaughters, the odds seemed slanted in that direction. The added importance in this was that if Tali had a boy, the bris (ritual circumcision) would be eight days after the birth (it’s always eight days, no matter what) and as an extremely important part of our tradition, I would want to be there as the sandek, the one who has the high honor of holding the infant during the actual event.

Tali and Sam enjoy having their children’s sex be a surprise so I knew that I would just have to wait until the actual delivery to know whether I would be on call for duty. But as I did the math, I calculated a real possibility of having to return from Israel prematurely. And in July, a flight back from Israel is a tough ticket to find.

With the unknowns of whether it was a boy and when Tali would deliver, it was an impossible puzzle to fully solve in advance and so the only thing to do was let fate take its course.

I left for Israel one day after Tali’s due date and though she was clearly ready and anxious to give birth, her body was not giving any hints that it was time. So I departed and wondered what would happen. We all started an enchanting vacation, sharing the country with the little children and visiting with our large family there. I called Tali often to see how she was doing, and she expressed her frustration of not going into labor, especially since her first two were early or right on time.

Each day that passed after Tali’s due date brought me one day closer to making the equation work. Though she was in misery, the odds were starting to work in my favor. I just needed her to give birth on July 17 and there would be no issues with being there for the bris. The 16th came and Tali could not believe that she still had no signs of an arriving child, now four days late.

Finally, the 17th came and with no delivery for my poor daughter, I was now assured that my original flight would work to get me home in time, though my money was still on it being a little girl. The bar mitzvah the next day was a memorable celebration and then, the next day, on July 19, a half-hour before Coby’s own birth date of July 20, Tali finally delivered her baby.

The rest of our time in Israel was terrific, and we left as scheduled on the 24th as planned. Then, on July 27, eight days after his birth, fulfilling the covenant that has existed for more than 3,000 years, I held little Noah David safely on my lap for the mohel to welcome him into our greater family, destined for a good life.

The Beat on Your Eats: Restaurants with Sea Views

Words by Johanna Harlow

For those who welcome surf and sand, head coastside for restaurants with stellar sea views.

moonraker

Pacifica

There’s nothing quite like enjoying Rockaway Beach with your Oysters Rockefeller. Moonraker—named after the clipper’s sail—is sure to sweep you off your feet with its coastal views and contemporary seafood dishes. For crustacean devotees, take a crack at buttery lobster tails or Dungeness crab legs. As for cocktails, sip a Siren Song (blueberry vodka and fresh lavender lemonade) or savor a Pacific Sunset (vodka with passionfruit and guava sparkling wine). With respect to seating, we highly recommend sliding into one of the restaurant’s couch-like booth seats so everyone can face the window. Even the not-so-sunny days at this location are magical with moody skies complementing the waves as they crash dramatically on shore. 105 Rockaway Beach Avenue. Open Sunday 10AM to 2PM; Sunday to Friday from 4PM to 9PM; Saturday from 12PM to 9PM.

Cover Image: Courtesy of Jesse Meria / Image: Courtesy of La Costanera

la costanera

Half Moon Bay

How about adding a Latin American twist to your surf and turf? With lomo saltado, anticuchos skewers, aji de gallina and arroz con mariscos, La Costanera offers plenty of Peruvian classics. You might also opt for a cebiche tasting, which includes three variations of the country’s national dish. Whether comprised of sushi-grade ahi tuna, calamari, shrimp or another kind of fresh fish, the zesty marinade of lime juice, aji rocoto peppers and cilantro (also referred to as “leche de tigre”) accents everything effortlessly. Elevated on the second story with floor-to-ceiling windows and a glass-rimmed patio, La Costanera allows for optimal sea view soaking. The interior has a charm all its own with lime booth seats, illustrated pillars and playful light fixtures. 260 Capistrano Road. Open Thursday to Sunday 11AM to 9PM; Tuesday to Wednesday 4PM to 9PM. Closed Monday.

Image: Courtesy of Sheri Lewis

miramar beach restaurant

Half Moon Bay

Fun fact: The Miramar Beach Restaurant was originally built as a Prohibition speakeasy (and overseen by a redheaded madam nicknamed the “Boss”). With such a colorful past, it’s fun to imagine clandestine midnight meetings with rum runners—while dining on blackened Scottish salmon. With offerings ranging from calamari steak to Cajun lobster pot, sea scallops to prawn carbonara, there are plenty of ways to celebrate the ocean’s bounty. But before diving in, order the baby artichoke cakes as your starter. It’s hard to go wrong with cheesy, pan-grilled artichoke hearts with roasted garlic aioli on a bed of baby greens. Miramar Beach Restaurant is good any time of the day—but with live piano music and glass fire pits, it’s particularly cozy in the evenings. 131 Mirada Road. Open Monday to Friday from 12PM to 8PM; Saturday to Sunday from 12PM to 8PM.

Exceptional Saffron

Words by Anni Golding

Earlier this year, when Peninsula restaurateur Ajay Walia announced that he was closing his Michelin-starred restaurant Rasa and reopening it as SAFFRON Burlingame, the news reverberated around the Bay Area. Rather than a tragic ending, however, the rebranding has become another evolution in Ajay’s 20-plus-year career in food.

“I never, in my wildest dreams, ever thought that I would actually have a restaurant—or would have anything to do with a restaurant,” the New Delhi native shares. When Ajay was growing up, a culinary career was one of necessity, not choice. However, as a kid who loved food and the act of gathering to eat with his family—whether dining out or ordering in—meals held a prominent role in his childhood memories.

Ajay attended university in New Delhi, where he met his wife-to-be, Reena. His entrepreneurial parents, whose garment business produced clothing for Gap, Macy’s and Sears, hoped Ajay would join the enterprise, but Ajay had other ideas. He and Reena came to the U.S. for graduate school, earned MBA degrees and took corporate jobs in finance in Chicago. Ajay’s entrée to the restaurant business came through helping with finances and front-of-house work at a friend’s eatery during weekends.

Relocating to the Bay Area for a job with Oracle in 2000 brought Ajay’s “weekend vacations” to an end, but a passion for the restaurant business lingered. In 2002, the Foster City resident bought Pizza and Pipes in Redwood City, with the intent of converting it to an Indian restaurant and banquet facility. Just six weeks later, he began negotiations for a space in downtown San Carlos with plans for a second Indian restaurant. Ultimately, he decided to leave the Pizza and Pipes concept intact and focused on the San Carlos venture. Saffron Indian Bistro—named for the rare and precious spice—opened in 2003. “We wanted to present good-quality, cooked Indian food that’s flavorful, that’s fast,” he recalls.

He made the decision early on to eschew competing on price. “People have this misconception that Indian food needs to be cheap, and I think the culprit for that image is us—and when I say ‘us,’ I mean my people,” he explains. “We don’t give ourselves the value we should.” In addition to bringing respect to Indian cuisine, Ajay’s mission has included educating customers about food costs, although it’s been a slow process, he admits.

By 2013, Ajay had sold Pizza and Pipes and acquired more than a decade of restaurant experience. He used the mistakes and learnings from Saffron to do things differently in creating Rasa. He credits Reena with nudging him to open the restaurant and challenging him to grow—and makes no bones about how supportive she has been. “If she was not supportive, we would not be married this long,” he says, adding, “This has not been an easy business.”

Rasa’s elegant, modern take on Indian cuisine received accolades from press and diners alike. Ajay was elated when news came in 2015 that the restaurant had been awarded its first Michelin star. Keeping that star, which the restaurant did until it closed, became a heavier proposition as time went on.

The pandemic brought a shift for Rasa and Ajay. While Saffron weathered the crisis with a takeout-only approach, Rasa suffered. Beautifully plated fine-dining meals didn’t translate to cardboard cartons, and the dining experience couldn’t be packaged, so Rasa remained closed. Financial losses due to the closure and tensions within the business grew. And then Ajay’s father passed away in 2021. It was time to step back and process.

The decision to close Rasa was neither easy nor quick. “For me, that’s my biggest achievement ever—and the field I’m in, that’s the ultimate,” he notes. “And to give up the ultimate and then say, ‘Okay, well, I’m gonna start from scratch again’—you gotta be stupid,” he says with a chuckle, adding, “I just needed to do something that made me happy.”

Connecting with people through food has been core to Ajay’s professional success and personal satisfaction. “I thrive on that interaction with the guests,” he states. After much consideration, he realized he didn’t want to develop another restaurant concept. The decision to use the SAFFRON name and remake the Burlingame space became clear.

Saffron Indian Bistro had already received a makeover in 2021 when Ajay rebranded it as SAFFRON and worked with Stephanie Batties (of The Right Touch Design) and BPR Builders to implement a mid-century modern aesthetic. The renovation gave the 60-seat restaurant a comfortable chic look with white walls, wide-plank floors and touches of brass. Ajay happily eliminated the buffet and worked with his kitchen team to re-evaluate the northern Indian-influenced menu, cutting approximately 25% of the dishes and revamping recipes.

SAFFRON Burlingame is not a clone of the San Carlos restaurant, although the completely renovated interior incorporates a similar, neutral color palette with mid-century modern influence. Ajay is especially proud of the custom-made nine-and-a-half-foot chandelier that hangs in the front room.

The two restaurants’ menus are different enough to make apparent that SAFFRON is a brand, not a chain, and there is some crossover with what Ajay refers to as “iconic dishes”—Old Delhi-style butter chicken, masala shrimp curry, and lahsooni saag, for example—as well as traditional Indian breads.

Burlingame’s menu incorporates California influence and highlights southern Indian dishes, with a beets and berries salad, assorted dosas and Travancore Fish Moilee. Ajay emphasizes that the take is not Rasa revised: “We don’t want people to compare to the previous menu, because obviously, it’s a new kitchen team, and we’ve reworked every recipe.” Milk & Cardamom blogger Hetal Vasavada, whom Ajay has known for years, contributed two bespoke desserts to their sweets menu.

 

Both restaurants offer curated beer and wine lists as well as nonalcoholic drinks made with herbs and fresh fruit purées. Burlingame’s bar program also includes craft cocktails, like the butterfly-pea-flower-hued Maharani, and a Boston sour take called simply SAFFRON Sour.

Taking stock of his restaurant career, Ajay reflects, “You know, I’ve come back to where I started. And my goal when I started was: The food has to taste good. It has to look good. And at the same time, it needs to be honest.” With regard to “authenticity,” a word often used to evaluate non-Western cuisines, Ajay states that it’s subjective. “We want people to come with an open mind, and not the preconceived inhibitions of what we should be doing,” he says. “Just come, and have a good time.”

California Kahve

Words by Kate Hammond

For Molly Welton, life is all about connecting with people. Whether she’s catching up with the regulars at her coffee caravan at Ocean Beach or meeting guests at her new Menlo Park brick-and-mortar at the Park James Hotel, Molly brews up hospitality with each cup of coffee she makes.

Molly launched California Kahve in January 2021 after a four-year passion project of rebuilding a vintage caravan. She credits her husband with planting the idea after they visited five different cafés in an effort to satisfy Molly’s high bar for coffee. “I finally got a great latte and I was so happy,” recounts Molly. “And my husband said, ‘Why don’t you open up your own little mobile coffee setup like we saw in New Zealand?’ And I was like, ‘Oh, my God, maybe I can actually pull that off!’”

A new baby and a pandemic later, Molly opened California Kahve, a business that blends her love of coffee and people. Born and raised in California, Molly knew she wanted to use her home state’s name in her new venture. “I just love the word California. I think it’s beautiful,” she notes. “And then I was looking at the etymology of the word coffee, and ‘kahve’ is one of the earliest.” Putting the two words together, Molly says, sounded “musical.”

While actively running her popular caravan business (and attracting a cult-like following), Molly had an unexpected opportunity come her way in April 2022. The creative director of the Park James Hotel reached out, asking if she was interested in converting the property’s dining room into an on-site coffee shop during daylight hours. As a Burlingame native, Molly attended Burlingame High School and most of her family lives on the Peninsula, so expanding to this location felt like an obvious next step. The space’s inviting decor and expansive courtyard helped seal the deal. “I feel connected to this area already,” she points out. “This kind of feels like an extended part of my neighborhood.”

Although she had never worked at a cafe, Molly spent over 20 years in hospitality at luxury hotels that included the Four Seasons and Ritz Carlton. She fell in love with the buzz of hotel life—and her training taught her an essential ingredient for running her own business: connecting with the guests. “I think that’s why I’ve been successful in my mobile setup, because I say, ‘Hi, how are you?’ to every person who comes to the truck,” she shares. “Now they are all my regulars.”

Prior to opening California Kahve, Molly spent most of her time outdoors, hiking three to four times a week in places like Mount Tam and Muir Woods. She selected a redwood tree for her logo to express her love of nature.

Seeking a coffee company aligned with her values, Molly discovered Minnesota’s Tiny Footprint Coffee. She felt an instant infinity for the taste and Tiny Footprint’s carbon-negative mission.

“I always do a dark roast … I could never get behind a light roast,” Molly states, as she tamps down grounds beside a La Marzocco espresso machine. “People say that you cannot ever get a dark roast because you’re burning the beans, but my dark roast is more like a medium to dark.” Molly’s personal favorite is an oat milk cappuccino, both creamy and strong.

Aside from the classic coffee drinks, Molly serves up her own custom creations. The foam in her Wildflower Honey Latte comes dusted with petals, and her Marionberry Latte perfectly balances the sweetness and the tartness of the fruit. Matcha lovers will appreciate the Lavender Mint Matcha, made with homemade lavender mint syrup. “I started looking at how I can make really interesting, different kinds of drinks that no one was making because people love anything that’s new and shiny,” she observes with a laugh.

Molly holds a fondness for her first specialty drink, the Dark Chocolate Orange Mocha, which combines espresso, milk, fresh orange juice, cinnamon and nutmeg with a generous drizzle of TCHO chocolate and a decorative sprinkling of orange rind. She makes her own syrups, and no matter how creative she gets, she remains dedicated to organic ingredients.

Along with the specialty drink selection, California Kahve offers nature-inspired smoothie bowls. The Pacific Blue, tinged with spirulina, features a wave made of blueberries, almonds and coconut shavings. While The Redwood—an emerald green smoothie base of avocado, mango and spinach, then covered in layers of hemp seeds, cashews, kiwi, banana and fresh mint—resembles the forest floor. Molly’s baked goods are sourced from Amour Wholesale, a French baker in San Carlos, with vegan and gluten-free treats supplied by Miya Bakes.

Mapping to her original quest to find a great latte, Molly now strives to create the perfect blend of taste and beauty. “If the taste is there, it’s going to be there,” she explains. “But if you can really go overboard on the aesthetic, then they say things like, ‘Where’s this from?’ or ‘How did you come up with this?’ or ‘I’ve never seen this before!’ And then it becomes a moment that they’ve never experienced.”

And if there’s one thing travelers and coffee connoisseurs have in common, it’s that insatiable pursuit of the next experience. “You can see how they just light up because it’s so extra,” Molly says of the hotel guests and locals who visit her cafe. “It’s an extra touch that makes your day a bit more special.”

Getaway: Quaint, Quirky Cambria

Words by Sharon McDonnell

For a seaside village of about 6,400 people, historic and quirky Cambria on California’s Central Coast offers up an extraordinary range of things to see and enticing places to stay and dine. Off Highway 1, a half-hour west of Paso Robles and 200 miles south of Palo Alto, it’s an ideal spot to combine with a visit to nearby Hearst Castle, which reopened in May after a two-year closure.

Sights and Shops

An artsy spirit permeates Cambria, which is featured in the book The Most Beautiful Villages and Towns in California. More than 80 galleries, shops, restaurants and cafes—many in late 19th-century clapboard cottages—pack the East Village, with streets dating back to 1866, and the newer West Village. On Moonstone Beach, dramatic rocky ocean views unfold from a mile-long boardwalk. At Fiscalini Ranch Preserve, which has 17 trails for walking and biking, landscapes range from a Monterey pine forest and towering cliffs to wetlands.

Photography: Courtesy of Highway 1 Discovery Route (also cover photo)

A meandering stroll through the East Village reveals countless eclectic discoveries. Inside an 1890 blacksmith shop, Cinnabar sells folk art, home décor and jewelry from all over the world, including metal art made from oil drums in Haiti and ivory-like jewelry crafted from the tagua nut in Ecuador. Moonstone Redwood carries one-of-a-kind furniture and sculptures made from reclaimed or burned redwood. Amphora specializes in art pottery made mostly by San Luis Obispo artisans, along with other crafts like fiber jewelry and felt hats. For whimsical gifts (think: watercolor paintings, notecards, coffee mugs and pillows of hummingbirds and flowers), wander into Among Friends. To cover more territory, consider renting an e-bike at VeloCambria or book a horseback or vehicle tour at Clovell’s Clydesdales.

Where to Stay

On the same block as Moonstone Redwood and Amphora, you’ll find The Rigdon House, an 1880 turquoise clapboard house with 14 suites and a spacious patio. During a nightly Happy Hour, wines from Paso Robles, snacks like bruschetta with bacon/caramelized onion jam and specialty cocktails are served.

Photography: Courtesy of Jonny Valiant

White Water, Cambria’s top luxury lodging located on Moonstone Beach, features Scandinavian modernist design and panoramic ocean views from picture windows in the lobby. Named on the Conde Nast Traveler’s 2021 Hot List, the property offers 25 rooms with fireplaces and the only full liquor license for Cambria beachside lodging.

Built in 1927, Cambria Pines Lodge, the town’s biggest hotel, is a rustic-style lodge on 25 acres with expansive views of hills and valleys, a full-service restaurant, a fireside lounge offering live music nightly and an outdoor heated pool. The hotel is also dog-friendly, with a private onsite dog park and two charming outdoor cocoon-like wood-and-stone huts where guests can dine with their pets. A short drive (or a 250-step wooden stairway) from the East Village, this is also where you’ll find the Cambria Christmas Market, which runs November 25 to December 23.

Where to Eat

All things olallieberry—Cambria’s famous fruit, a cross between a blackberry and raspberry—are found at Linn’s, a fine-dining restaurant that serves breakfast, lunch and dinner, from wild salmon topped with olallie-berry glaze and apple chutney to olallieberry pies, bread puddings, cream puffs and cakes. A second-floor nook, plumped with pillows and overlooking vintage bikes on the wall, is a choice place to sit. The Linn family, who opened a farmstand in 1979, followed by their restaurant in 1989, also own the casual Linn’s Easy As Pie Café, which serves pies of all kinds, and Linn’s Gourmet Goods, a specialty foods and kitchenware shop, which, of course, sells olallieberry jams, sauces, syrups and frozen pies.

Photography: Courtesy of Highway 1 Discovery Route

Open for lunch and dinner, Robin’s, whose owner is Singapore-born, has been a local favorite since opening in 1985. Along with a charming garden setting with mosaic-bedecked tables and a restored adobe house, you’ll find global fare like a Brazilian seafood coconut milk stew, Thai green coconut curry and rogan josh, an Indian lamb curry with almonds, tomatoes and yogurt. The Sow’s Ear, a dinner-only restaurant in an old cottage, has served specialties like lobster pot pie, fisherman’s stew and a house mac and cheese in two fireside rooms since 1986. Check out the ceramic pig figurines by the dozen in the window.

An 1877 dark-red farmhouse with front and back patios, Café on Bridge Street has won county-wide acclaim for its overstuffed hot sandwiches ranging from hot pastrami to a beef, blue cheese and mushroom melt. At Creekside Gardens, try Danish ball-shaped pancakes called abelskivers in its delightful patio.

The BIG Attraction: Hearst Castle

Nothing could be more of a contrast to Cambria’s folksy charm than William Randolph Hearst’s lavish European-inspired fantasy in San Simeon, located just six miles north. Spanning 68,500 square feet with 115 rooms, the legendary estate is known for its opulent twin-towered main building, sumptuous guesthouses, extraordinary art collection (25,000 artifacts) and acres of terraced gardens, fountains and pools. Yes, those are zebras you spot grazing during the 15-minute narrated tour bus ride up to the hilltop estate (Hearst once owned the nation’s largest private zoo with a menagerie that included grizzly bears, lions, orangutans and an elephant). The historic hilltop castle offers a variety of themed tours like Grand Rooms, Upstairs Suites (including the media mogul’s bedroom), Cottages & Kitchen and Architecture/Design. Staff dress in 1930s period attire for special evening tours in spring and fall.

For a perfect lunch afterward, order the cheese, charcuterie and olive plate with a wine tasting at Hearst Ranch Winery, just downhill from the Castle. Here, at this beautiful coastal tasting room, shaded by umbrellas, enjoy a final toast to a quaint seaside town and its extravagant neighbor.

 

Ready to Row

Words by Kate Bradshaw

From the outside, the Bair Island Aquatic Center doesn’t stand out much from the industrial marshlands of Redwood City. But pass through the center’s nondescript gate and a sensory-packed world awaits. The rhythmic sound of oars dipping in and out of the water. The satisfying pull of muscles stretching to achieve. The visual splendor of a color-splashed sunrise on the bay. Here, people of all ages rise at the crack of dawn to experience camaraderie and competition, row on world-class waterways and even sight the occasional baby seal.

And Bair Island Aquatic Center welcomes newcomers.
“We cater to every level,” says Sharon Wienbar, a longtime rower with the Center and board member of USRowing. “There are Olympians at our club and people who are holding an oar for the first time.”

Bair Island puts its finest hospitality on display when hosting one of its biggest annual events: National Learn to Row Day. Visitors who sign up have the opportunity to learn the basic mechanics and lingo of rowing, and then venture out on a boat for about a half-hour—all for free. Staff and volunteers bustle around in green t-shirts, helping more than 80 people through their introductory sessions.

Photography: Courtesy of Vicky Bialas

Overlooking the water, “ergs,” or rowing machines, line the aquatic center’s deck. Here, instructors guide beginners through each step of a stroke (or pull) of an oar—from scrunching up in the “catch” position to the “finish” position, legs extended, bodies angled back, oars against the chest. Later, from a motorized boat on the water, coach Jana Comstock shares insights with her group of eight participants, most of whom are rowing for the first time. “As you may have noticed,” she calls out, “rowing is hard.”

For many, that’s the appeal. At 48, Sharon launched her journey with the Bair Island Aquatic Center in a common way: with a Learn to Row class. The experience inspired her to join the club’s novice team and then continue working her way up. In the process, she learned to become a morning person and harness her height for maximum pull on a rowing machine.
Twelve years after Sharon’s first stroke in the water, she’s won national championship races and competes as part of the club’s coastal rowing team—an even more hard-core version of rowing that seeks out rougher offshore waters. (The sport will likely be added to the 2028 Olympics, and Bair Island Aquatic Center is a hub for it, she notes.)

Sharon has also built deep connections here, which she credits to a community of trust. “Rowers are generally good, clean-living people,” she says. “If you’re going to get up at four or five in the morning, you don’t do crazy stuff. You’re willing to work hard.”

Over time, rowers progress from novice to open and then competitive teams. They build muscle memory—through hundreds, then thousands of repeated strokes—in order to pull, “feather” or twist their oars and drive the boat forward in synchrony with their boatmates.

According to Sharon, rowing is the ultimate team sport. “There’s no heroic three-pointer at the buzzer,” she points out. “What makes the boat run well is when everybody goes together.”

Curiosity brings them in. Examples abound of people who choose to stay. Eileen Cheng, a volunteer at the center’s Learn to Row Day, explains that she first heard about rowing from her boyfriend, a coxswain (the person in the bow of the boat who steers and commands the rowers) for the Center’s competitive team. “I was hooked,” Eileen says of her own first Learn to Row class. Now, she’s captain of the center’s novice team.

According to Chris Flynn, director of operations and head coach of the competitive masters team, the aquatic center is the Peninsula’s largest rowing club and one of the few local places where the community can access aquatic sports. In addition to adaptive programs for visually impaired rowers and those with disabilities, the Center also offers youth club rowing, dragon boating, stand-up paddleboarding (SUP), outrigger canoeing and surfskiing.

Another big incentive to get out on the water here: special access to Bair and Greco Islands, federally protected habitats where rowers spot harbor seal pups, birds, dolphins and whales. “It’s an amazing place to row,” observes rower and coach Vicky Bialas, who adds that the Peninsula rowing ecosystem also includes clubs such as Stanford Rowing, Redwood Scullers, Palo Alto Rowing and Menlo College.

For rower and former Australian resident Frances Rubinstein, the sport is beautiful, but mastering it is elusive. Newcomers shouldn’t feel discouraged if they don’t ace the techniques right away, she says. “Don’t think you’ll get the perfect stroke immediately. Most of us are still working on the best stroke.”

Keeping it Fresh: Insights from Dr. Philip Pizzo

Words by Sheri Baer

Growing up in the Bronx, as the son of working-class Catholic parents who immigrated from Sicily, Dr. Philip Pizzo could never have imagined the twists and turns his life would take. “Nope! Not even slightly,” he attests. “I would say there probably were no predictors in my early life that indicated where I was going to wind up or how things were going to go.”

If anything, an expulsion from elementary school triggered deep concerns about a very questionable future. Through self-learning and a passion for reading, Phil successfully corrected his course and made a pivotal discovery. “On a personal level, I love change,” he says. “I love to learn and do new things. And so I’ve really relished changing directions on a regular basis.”
So much so that Phil has consistently and deliberately instigated change—becoming a model for risk-taking and even founding a Stanford program that encourages big leaps.

Phil’s insatiable quest to explore what’s next led to a storied career in medicine, research and academic administration. At the National Cancer Institute (NCI), he pioneered life-saving advancements in the treatment of childhood cancer and HIV. After two decades at NCI, he took the reins as the physician-in-chief of Children’s Hospital in Boston and then moved on to chair the Department of Pediatrics at Harvard Medical School.

Photography: Courtesy of Stanford Medical Center / Cover: Courtesy of Saul Bromberger

Embracing upheaval again, in 2001, Phil switched up coasts to accept the position of Dean of Stanford University School of Medicine. And when he announced his plans to step down in 2012, Phil’s own search for his next chapter inspired the creation of Stanford’s Distinguished Careers Institute (DCI), a program that promotes mid-life reflection and recalibration.
Along the way, Phil authored more than 615 scientific articles and 16 books. As an advocate of lifelong learning, he also voraciously reads (or listens to) countless titles, while running 50 to 70 miles a week and logging two to three marathons a year.

Now 77, married to his longtime partner Peggy (an early childhood education and public policy expert whom he met as a college freshman) with two daughters and four grandchildren, Phil is leaving his role as founding director of DCI. Not to retire—but to attend rabbinical school.
After converting to Judaism with his wife (following a period of soul-searching and study), Phil’s next pivot will be training to become a rabbi. Embodying a lifestyle marked by steady waves of transitions, Phil’s approach represents the antidote to obsolescence. “It’s a function of being receptive to new things that enter your life, that allow you to rethink who you are,” he explains. “Sort of the path not seen but then chosen.”
Given that change is frequently a daunting prospect, PUNCH asked Phil to share some insights during a rare pause in his schedule.

Why did learning become such a powerful influence in your life?

Having grown up in an immigrant family, in a working-class environment, I kind of had to find my own way. I got into trouble in elementary school and got expelled and that was the beginning in many ways of my personal transformation. I remember the reflection on the event, which was, ‘Your life is not going in a very good direction.’ I knew the one way out was to learn, and so I began doing that. I found the community library, and that’s where, as a young teenager, I began finding my personal role models, who turned out to be people who made discoveries or who contributed societally in different ways. And that became the guidepost for things that continue to evolve in my life. So self-learning, self-guidance, were early elements for me in a very personally definitional way. Threading this through my life, whenever I’m facing a new challenge or interest, my first approach is to learn as much as I can.

Photography: Courtesy of Linda A. Cicero – Stanford News Service

What’s your personal prescription for implementing change?

I’ve become more methodical in my thinking, meaning I try to make a significant change every five and not more than ten years. Of course, you’re doing that anyway early on. When I began my work life, I kept saying every four to five years I’m going to shift the direction of my research in new and different ways. It’s probably a bit of just needing new stimulation and a new challenge, and it’s also motivated by not wanting to get stuck. I’ve watched so many people who stay very focused in a line of research or inquiry or academia, and they wind up over time defending what they’ve done because the world starts moving beyond them. My solution to that is if you keep moving on, you don’t have to defend the past because you’re always going to be creating a new future.

Given that you’re starting rabbinical school at the age of 77, what’s your take on the concept of retirement?

We’ve got our three-part narrative: you get educated, you work and then you retire. Retirement is something that needs to be rethought. It’s not that I’m negative about retirement. I think that people want to do something different but just pausing completely and not having anything that inspires you is not a prescription for a healthy outcome. We’ve also put the point of retirement artificially around ages that are no longer relevant. I think it’s more important to think about the life journey as being a continued set of opportunities that you do throughout your life until you can’t. And that’s the way I have tried to guide people, and in many ways, guide myself. If you don’t have a sense of purpose, then you don’t have a sense of direction.

Why are you such a strong advocate for lifelong learning?

This is a really critical thing for us to rethink. Is there a reason why we only think about education at the beginning of a life span as compared to periodically recalibrating people’s lives throughout its course? We should have that same renewal opportunity for older adults, so that they can take an acceptable pause and more deeply reconsider where they’re going and make choices that are meaningful. By rethinking the role of higher education and having opportunities for people to come back to school—whether it’s for a little bit of time or a longer time to renew their life experience and knowledge—we can prepare them for another set of opportunities. DCI and similar programs that are following it are prototyping the importance of lifelong learning.

Photography: Courtesy of Stanford University School of Medicine

How are the founding principles of DCI tied to longevity?

When I started this new program about life transition, it was parenthetically built upon what I consider to be the three fundamental pillars of longevity: renewing purpose, building community and recalibrating wellness. It’s very important to have a sense of purpose, to know what your direction is going to be and renew your purpose periodically. It’s critical to have a community, a group of people who support you and engage you and whom you engage with. And it’s critically important to focus on wellness from a physical, emotional and spiritual perspective. There’s a lot of data that supports each of those as independent contributors to healthy outcomes.

You seem to have a fearlessness when it comes to change. What’s your advice to people who are a little less courageous?

I think you’ve touched on a core issue, which is so true: People fear change. And so they get co-opted into avoiding it and wind up making compromises along the way. I’m always reminded of an incredible woman whom I met years ago, Elizabeth Glaser, who was a fundamental child advocate for pediatric AIDS. She gave me a picture with a quote that said, basically paraphrasing, ‘When you come to the precipice and you need to jump, don’t be afraid. Jump and you’ll have wings.’ I’m being a little supercilious, but in a way, I think you have to jump, you have to be prepared to take the chance. And if you do that, I think almost invariably, people land in new and in many cases, happier places.

Filmmaking: Creating Karmalink

Words by Johanna Harlow / Photos Courtesy of Karmalink, Miguel Jeronimo

When director and Peninsula native Jake Wachtel tells people he filmed his breakout movie in Cambodia, many ask if it’s a documentary. Not even close. Try Buddhist sci-fi mystery.

Now before your mind jumps straight to space sagas and CGI aliens, you should know that Jake’s film Karmalink is set in the not-so-distant future on planet Earth—a lower-income neighborhood in Phnom Penh, to be precise. And it’s a whole new flavor of sci-fi. While glossy-sleek, ultra-urban cityscapes can feel like a fever dream, Karmalink’s world seems much more plausible—and right around the corner. There’s something grounding in its depictions of drones, augmented reality and biotechnology alongside dirt streets, abandoned train cars and a community facing forced evictions.

Beyond the masterful juxtaposition, Jake’s story of a young treasure seeker and his adventurous friends reveals the cultural differences between Cambodia and Silicon Valley (Jake was born and raised in Menlo Park) as well as marvels at our shared humanity. “I really love near-future and plausible sci-fi as a way to expand our minds of what’s possible and point us to what’s going on in the present,” he shares. “And I think that there’s a great capacity in sci-fi to talk about socio-political issues.”

Photography: Courtesy of Miguel Jeronimo

Touted as Cambodia’s very first science-fiction film, Jake’s movie questions our preconceptions of where a sci-fi should be set. “Cambodia’s hurling headlong into the future,” asserts Jake, explaining that the country’s native digital fluency is exceptional. “There’s this idea of technological leapfrogging where people who aren’t beholden to older forms of technology can more readily embrace new technologies.”

After its world premiere in 2021 at Venice Critics’ Week, Karmalink made the film festival run and was released last month to streaming services. Heralding U.S. filmmaker Jake Wachtel’s “striking feature debut,” Variety describes Karmalink as a “magical spiritual mystery tour” that “takes viewers on a fascinating and frequently wondrous expedition to a place where science and metaphysics intersect.”

For Jake, filmmaking has always been about building bridges. As a young teen, he recalls bringing his new MiniDV camcorder on a trip to the rainforests of Ecuador with his grandmother. “The goal was to document what was going on,” Jake says, “but it also served as a means of connection with the kids in the village.” He recalls a group of Ecuadorians clustering around him to check out his camera—then getting invested in pointing out all the things he should film. “I guess I see in this moment the seeds for later explorations,” he reflects.

By his early 20s, Jake had become a citizen of the world, filming documentaries for NGOs and nonprofits in various countries. When an opportunity to teach film in Cambodia for a year with Filmmakers Without Borders presented itself, he jumped. “I was finding myself really hungry to dive deeper with a single community,” he shares.

Karmalink’s future stars—Srey Leak Chhith and Leng Heng Prak—signed up for Jake’s 2014 class and acted as the leads in the course’s final project: a superhero movie where Student Girl must defeat Dropout Boy and his diabolical plan to cancel school. Both were naturals on camera. And Leng Heng not only played the villain but also served as director. “I have this fun photo of him dressed in full Dropout Boy costume directing the other kids,” he laughs.

Fittingly, Jake also fell for cinema at a young age. At 13, right before attending Menlo-Atherton High School, he encountered the magic of Hitchcock’s psychological thrillers at the Stanford Theatre. “I just remember being so captivated,” he recalls. The vintage design of the venue—in addition to the organ player, lifting out of the floorboards like a rabbit from a hat—also left an impression. “I felt so transported and brought into these worlds,” he notes.

It wouldn’t be until the end of his first year in Cambodia, during a meditation retreat, that the idea for Karmalink first entered Jake’s mind. As the story began to take shape, the filmmaker found himself telling the tale of a young boy who recalls his past lives through dreams, then determines to hunt down the gold artifact he believes he hid long ago.

It would take several more years before production began in earnest. But Jake says he wouldn’t have it any other way. “It doesn’t really feel right to me to fly to a new foreign place and make a movie there,” he explains. “This connection to Cambodia arose organically. And it’s become a very deep and special place in my heart.”

Jake fondly recalls those early days of steeping in the local culture, of “getting used to the rhythms of the monks coming through in the morning asking for alms, and the giant pots of steaming corn that the ladies load on their bicycles to go sell in the market.” More than anything, he admired the beautiful sense of community. “Everyone knows each other,” he says. “Everyone’s looking out for each other.”

Even after deep immersion, Jack knew his perspective would be limited. However, with a roughly 90% Cambodian cast and crew, he had help navigating those nuances. “I tried to make clear to everyone, ‘Please, at any moment, if anything’s going on that doesn’t feel right or you have some ideas, let’s talk about it. Because I want this to really feel like your story, like this makes sense from your perspective.’” And even though Jake is proficient in Khmer, he had Cambodians translate the script in order to capture the subtleties of the country’s official language.

Although major changes were made to his screenplay after Jake recruited the help of Christopher Larsen (an experienced American screenwriter living in Lao), Jake found that the most significant changes weren’t plot points. “I think that, in a lot of ways, where the collaboration is most meaningful is all of the small details,” he explains. Like “how the family sits around dinner together; how they sleep together, curled up on the mattress. It’s a lot of stuff around how families relate to each other.” In one scene of the film, Leng Heng consoles his grandmother by taking her arm and massaging it. “I didn’t write that in the script,” Jake reveals. “I didn’t even know that that’s a very intimate moment in Cambodian family life.”

The film also explores Buddhism (Cambodia’s leading religion and beliefs Jake holds), and there’s a fascinating undercurrent on whether technology progresses or hinders the search for enlightenment. Intriguingly, in Karmalink’s future world, people can only access and view augmented reality by placing a dot-sized piece of tech in the middle of their foreheads—recalling the third eye or “eye of consciousness” said to reveal the world beyond one’s physical sight. “Buddhism saturates the fabric of daily life in Cambodia,” Jake shares. “It’s very common for people to remember their past lives. It’s not out of the ordinary at all.”

But like every story, this one carries universal themes as well. The strength of a tight-knit community, the bravery of big-hearted kids and the power of friendship are topics that transcend time and borders. So is the coming-of-age scenario. “It’s such a common and important story in cultures around the world: demarcating this passing from childhood to adulthood,” Jake notes. “It just so happens to be around the time when our brains really start to crystallize a lot more. We start being open to so many possibilities.”

The topic of memory and brain development is near and dear to Jake’s heart. At Stanford, he majored in psychology while minoring in film studies, delving into neuroscience and film theory, cultural psychology and the history of global cinema. He also worked in a lab for a season, researching the cognitive differences between monolingual and bilingual children: “I was manning an eye-tracking device that’s following the baby’s gaze, as they watch these videos and look around. We’re sponges from the get-go!” Needless to say, you should expect Karmalink to mess with your brain a little bit. But in a good way.

It would be at the intersection of these two studies that Jake came to a life-pivoting realization: “What makes us human is our empathy.” For the filmmaker, cinema is the ultimate empathy generator. “It can literally bring us into the lives of other people who live seemingly so differently from how we live.”

And it’s this mindset that makes Karmalink so powerfully collaborative. “I think a lot of people talk about the director needing to have the vision and telling people, ‘This is how it’s going to be.’ That’s not how I operate,” he chuckles. “I love that it’s this team project!” He smiles when he adds, “They say it takes a village to make a movie.”

Outstanding in the Field: Table-to-Farm Culinary Adventures

Words by Johanna Harlow

Rather than wonder about the origins of your entree, why not whisk your dining table away to discover the source for yourself? For Peninsula farm-to-table enthusiasts, Outstanding in the Field’s table-to-farm events are the ultimate foodie experience. Attend an Outstanding event in the summer or fall, and you might find yourself in the middle of a pear orchard or oyster farm. Or raising a toast to the harvest in a lush vineyard row, clusters of grapes enhancing your al fresco meal. Or savoring a fisherman’s catch at a pier, beach or dockyard.

Founder Jim Denevan and his team have collaborated with farmers and chefs to create next-level dining experiences since 1999. After its modest launch with a trio of NorCal dinners, the event has grown at an astounding rate. Over 1,400 meals later, the roving restaurant has brought four-course culinary adventures to all 50 states—and 20 countries. It’s even attracted the interest of documentarians along with a slew of media coverage. The meal has an unmistakable energy about it. But what ingredients make it magic?

Heading to Markegard Family Grass-Fed, a coastal ranch in Half Moon Bay, I spot Jim’s bus all the way from the Cabrillo Highway. It’s hard to miss the barn-red vehicle, roosting atop the nearby hill like a call to adventure. I arrive as the first guests begin mingling over appetizers—but when I join Jim inside his bus, sheltered from the sea breeze, our conversation doesn’t feel at all rushed. Jim has an unhurried, almost zen-like, calm about him and settles in for a chat about what sets Outstanding in the Field apart.

Photography: Paulette Phlipot / Cover: Courtesy of Emily Hagen – OITF

Charmingly Unrepeatable

It makes me smile when Jim mentions that his repeat guests return “ready for an adventure.” Out the window, I see our “dining room” one hill over. The 150-guest table unfolds in the distance, its crisp white tablecloth contrasting with its earthy surroundings. Jim likes to cause a stir, and this staging is the ultimate anticipation-builder. It’s also a reminder that, unlike the polished, streamlined consistency of brick-and-mortar restaurants, Outstanding meals and their many moving parts are unrepeatable. And that’s exactly the point.

“The art of it is to not decide too far ahead about what you’re exactly going to do,” Jim shares of his choice to engage with the land when determining table placement. He also enjoys teasing out the flavor of each event by pairing chefs with farmers, who work together to tie the menu to the local produce and livestock. Frequently, vintners, brewers, cheesemakers and fishermen join in the culinary collaboration.

Tonight, Indonesian chef Siska Silitonga will weave Markegard cattle and poultry throughout her menu. “We want to honor their land by allowing them to tell us their story through their food,” Jim explains. The ranch’s grass-fed beef lends itself to daging kalio, a heavenly coconut curry; chicken finds its way into yam sambal kemangi, served with stir fry egg noodles, peanuts and a spicy sauce that includes lemon basil from the nearby College of San Mateo Farmers’ Market.

Photography: Courtesy of Brighton Denevan

Chefs and farmers are encouraged to flex their personalities and interests. “I tell my staff, when we’re doing opening remarks, ‘Let the rancher talk about what they have experienced and what they know,’” Jim shares. “Doniga Markegard has a very powerful story about regenerative agriculture and the work to preserve the land. That’s specific to her. It’s her area of expertise.”

Chef Siska affirms to me later, “It’s the best collaboration I’ve had yet. In Indonesian and Thai cooking, we use a lot of shrimp paste and fish sauce. I was worried that they were maybe targeting folks who are not too excited by these flavors. But they’re the opposite. They said, ‘No, Chef, go crazy! You do you!’ It’s just so heart-warming to be allowed to cook whatever you want—the way you cook for your own people.”

It’s Jim’s mission to instill in diners a deeper connection to the “culture” part of agriculture—a sentiment explicitly expressed on the Outstanding website: “We aim to connect diners to the origins of their food while celebrating the hardworking hands that feed us.”

Over a decade after Outstanding’s launch, Jim still cherishes a memory from his very first feast. He recalls the farmer’s expression of satisfaction as he lingered at the table long after the guests had gone. It’s a reaction Jim has witnessed many times since. “We’re celebrating the place they work every day,” Jim remarks as he leans down to pull on his boots. These farmers experience what “you might call an invasion of interested people,” he chuckles, doffing a weathered cowboy hat before heading for the bus door.

Moments of Wonder

Before the meal begins, the horseback-riding Markegard kids demonstrate their herding skills by wrangling the family’s Belted Galloway cattle. Little moments of wonder (planned and unplanned) are characteristic of Outstanding events. “It’s just being whimsical,” Jim explains as we take our seats at the loooong table. Soon, big family-style bowls of rujak salad brimming with papaya, jicama, cucumber, mango, pineapple and a sweet tamarind/shrimp paste dressing begin circulating. “We’re just playing with the circumstances of the day,” Jim notes. “What kind of fun thing can we do?” His contagious seize-the-day attitude is one of the reasons regulars keep coming back: They want to find out what happens next.

Photography: Paulette Phlipot

At times, a farm tour or short trek to the dining area sparks that sense of adventure. Or perhaps it involves a night of glamping after the meal. Always, it incorporates the placement of the table. At an oyster farm in Quilcene, Washington, Jim’s “table reveal” was particularly memorable. “The guests came around the corner from the parking area and they were presented with a table that’s ‘floating’ in the water,” he recounts. Diners slurped shellfish in the shallows of the Puget Sound, their meal literally raised around their chair legs. The guest chef wore wellies. “I have scouted for a table on an iceberg in Greenland,” Jim adds. “It’ll probably happen someday.”

At a past dinner along this same stretch of Half Moon Bay, Jim recalls a group of spouting whales making a guest appearance. “Nature’s part of the event, which enhances the meal,” he affirms. Occasionally, he also situates a beachside table at the edge of high tide—just to see what happens. In the documentary, Man in the Field, the camera captures a wave crashing over the end of the table during the fourth course, soaking delighted guests. Undeterred, the farmer continues to pour from a bottle of red. “He’s not fazed,” Jim recalls of the man. “He’s like, ‘This is life, you know? I just got hit by a wave, but I’m just gonna enjoy this glass of wine.’”

A few times a season, Jim adds an art component to the meal. Not only an orchestrator of epic feasts, he’s also a renowned sand artist (as is his son Brighton Denevan). By molding or raking the ground into geometric patterns, Jim elevates his already photogenic events to the next level. “With each artwork, I am creating a temporary place,” he comments on Instagram. “The place didn’t exist in the morning and doesn’t exist after the tides come in.” The same fleeting, ethereal quality permeates his dinners—reminding guests to savor the present before it’s swept into the past.
Even sunsets are an intentional affair for Jim. He’s got an app to track the sun’s path, allowing him to align the event so that the sun disappears behind the barn or sets at the table’s head so every guest can enjoy it. “There’s some subtlety about those things,” Jim confides. “The guests don’t know that it’s been considered. They feel that it’s been considered, rather than it being super overt.” Tonight, the sun sinks into the Pacific just before dessert, bathing guests in honey-gold hues as silhouetted seabirds pinwheel overhead. Yet another flawless show by Mother Nature.

Photography: Courtesy of Lana Pulda – OITF

Humanizing Meals

Even beyond the environment, it’s the people who make each event special. Like the chef and the farmer, guests play an essential role in the evening. On the Outstanding website, Jim notes that, “Conversation at the table evolves naturally—each person contributing organically (to use the word) to a destination that is not predetermined. To get to the place of surprise and whimsy, we seek it out and give it room to happen.” Guests are encouraged to participate in the meal by bringing their own decorative plates. The result is a colorful tablescape and a representation of fellowship.

The long, family-style table also stands as a symbol. After experiencing an unsafe childhood, Jim feels an undeniable pull to these kinds of intimate gatherings. “I think probably for myself—or anyone who’s been through some challenging circumstances—I see the healing nature of a communal table and how people can connect and trust each other,” he muses. “They share the family-style platter and then consider, ‘Has everyone had enough? Are we sharing appropriately?’ There’s something really sweet about that.” That instinctive caretaking extends through the evening. It’s why, as the sun slips beneath the ocean, the Outstanding team goes around bundling chilly guests in blankets.

Jim sees this as a space to promote empathy, encouraging guests to “lead with their humanity.”

“It’s easier for people to find common ground,” he observes. “They’re at a common table. Their food comes from a common place.” It’s this kind of vision that keeps Outstanding’s authentic celebrations of life unfurling across vineyards and mountaintops, caves and creameries, farms and fishing docks.

By the end of the evening, conversations and wine have flowed. Plates have been emptied, stomachs filled. Jim serenely watches over diners as they bid new friends farewell and follow the trail of twinkling tea lights through the long grass and back to their cars. With the tip of his hat, he returns to his bus, thoughts already beginning to drift to the next feast.

Photography: Paulette Phlipot

Outstanding Tidbits

+ During the earliest events, Jim himself served as the chef. His brother, a farmer of organic apples and pears, hosted one of the first meals in his orchard.

+ Legend has it that Jim’s iconic vehicle once acted as one of Elvis’ old tour buses.

+ Man in the Field: The Life and Art of Jim Denevan was submitted for Best Documentary consideration at the 2022 Oscars.

High Flyers

Words by Sheri Baer

After being set up by their sisters, Marian Harris and Ross Ferguson found their relationship taking off in unexpected directions—not just ups and downs, but also in dives, loops and rolls.

Now a married couple, the Half Moon Bay pair represent the U.S. in international aerobatics competition, essentially the equivalent of Olympic figure skating in the sky. And yes, their love of flying played a defining role in their courtship.

When they first met in late 2011, Marian admits to being intrigued, but her interest skyrocketed when Ross started talking about a Cessna 150. “I was sitting there going, ‘What? You’re what? You can do what?’” she recounts. “And I thought, ‘Oh, you’re more useful now! Maybe I won’t kick you to the curb.’” Marian laughs as she recollects what passed through her mind next: “Or, hopefully, you won’t kick me to the curb!”

Obsessed with flying since childhood (her father had his private pilot’s license), Marian grew up around planes. She enlisted in the Air Force ROTC in college, hoping it would lead to an aviation career, but the timing was off for open pilot slots so she charted a different course. In 2000, a job with SAP brought her to Palo Alto and more than a decade passed. Then her ears perked up while out on a date with Ross.

Meanwhile, Ross grew up in Seattle in the shadow of Boeing but didn’t know anyone who flew. As a teenager, he spotted a $25 intro flight lesson sign and decided to check it out. “I got hooked and kept coming back for lessons whenever I could afford it,” he remembers. A seasoned commerical pilot by the time he met Marian, Ross reactivated his flight instructor ratings and taught her how to fly. And when Marian took her first solo flight in January 2013, their partnership began to soar to new heights.

As it turns out, both Marian and Ross had always been captivated by aerobatic flight. But even for Ross, it was an idea that never got off the ground. “I just always thought, ‘Well, I could buy one of these aerobatic planes but who would go out and do it with me?’” he relates. “I’d just be doing it by myself—it’d be a solitary hobby.”

But that thinking changed when he met Marian and learned about the Yak 52.

Built by the Soviets as a military trainer during the Cold War, the Yak 52 was designed to handle extreme aerobatic and combat maneuvers. About 1,800 were constructed, and after the fall of the Soviet Union, most ended up getting exported to the West. After learning that these agile, well-engineered aircraft were actually affordable, Marian and Ross each bought one and housed them in a hangar at Half Moon Bay Airport. “We were spending more time out here than over on the other side of the hill,” she shares, “so when there was an opportunity to move close to Half Moon Bay Airport, we jumped on it.”

Learning to fly aerobatic figures and sequences, which involves upset and unusual attitude recovery, is used to improve overall safety and create better pilots. “Some people compare it to a roller coaster ride,” Marian notes, “except it’s a roller coaster you’re directing—using skills developed through extensive training.”

Catching sight of a fellow pilot practicing, Marian and Ross step outside the hangar to follow the action unfolding in the sky. “He’s probably pulling around six or seven Gs, which means six or seven times the force of gravity,” Ross observes as he launches into the piloting equivalent of a play by play. “Everything starts and ends from level,” he explains. “This one is called a Humpty Bump. It’s just straight up and then straight down. When he comes out, we’ll see what he does next.” As Ross tracks the plane with his finger, the pilot takes his aircraft vertical and does a one and three-quarter roll. “And this is a Hammerhead, which is just a rotation at zero air speed,” Ross continues, “and then a snap roll on the way back down.”

Watching the aircraft seemingly hurtle to the ground, a question naturally erupts: “That looks terrifying! What does it feel like?” Without a beat, Marian and Ross respond in unison: “FUN!” Still, Ross acknowledges that about 80% of pilots get airsick the first time. “It’s uncomfortable at first and then you build up to it,” he says.

After they learned entry-level aerobatics, a friend and fellow Yak 52 pilot encouraged them to get more serious. “You’ve got the airplane, why don’t you go to the Yak 52 World Championship?,” he suggested and connected them with a highly-regarded coach from Kazakhstan for competitive solo aerobatics training.

Given that the Yak 52 design was “frozen” early on, all of the aircraft are virtually identical, making it a perfect candidate for a one-design competition. “It really levels the playing field,” notes Ross, who explains that competitors typically “arrive and drive” aircraft assigned to them versus having to ship their own aircraft to contests. “It basically takes the cost of owning the latest airplane out of the equation,” he says. The first Yak 52 World Aerobatic Championship (informally referred to as the YAK WAC) was held in 2008 and is hosted every two to three years by a different country.

After squeezing in training around their day jobs, Ross and Marian decided to go for it in 2017, traveling to Tula, Russia, with their Half Moon Bay teammate Brian Branscomb, to compete in the 5th Yak 52 championship. With thousands of spectators watching, the competition involves flying a series of sequences—typically four minutes in length—that include a mix of compulsory and “free” figures that the pilots pick themselves.

“The judges want to see the presentation right in front of them,” Marian explains. “That’s the real difficulty,” adds Ross. “It takes a certain amount of time to learn how to do the figures, but then you have to put the figures all together in this sequence and keep it within a little 1,000-meter aerobatic box. It’s like flying between a bunch of skyscrapers.”

The American team claimed fourth in their first Yak 52 competition. “If there was an award for the team who learned the most, we would have won gold,” Ross smiles. The couple flew in two U.S. contests after Tula and recently participated in another world championship in Torun, Poland. They hope to see more U.S. aerobatic pilots joining them at the next YAK WAC, date and location still pending.

The couple’s Half Moon Bay hangar is filled with flight memorabilia—tail feathers, trophies, medals and a striking collection of photos and flags. After earning her license, Marian learned that her great aunt was an original air racer in the late ’20s and ’30s. She proudly displays a black & white image of Elizabeth Kelley posing with Amelia Earhart and the legendary test pilot Pancho Barns. Also here are banners and flyers from their other commitments. The two pilots prioritize taking flight for “both fun and community,” which includes volunteering for the San Mateo Disaster Airlift Response Team, helping coordinate searches for entangled whales and hosting and supporting Young Eagle flights to introduce kids to flying and aviation careers.

Although they credit flying with bringing them together, “It’s a part of it, but it’s not everything,” Marian is quick to point out. But for now at least, they’re relishing every moment of each roller coaster ride in the sky.

Eye-Catching Design

Words by Jennifer Jory

From an early age, Heidi Lancaster always had a camera in hand—and today, this San Mateo photographer and mother of four is staying true to form. Heidi’s mission to freeze-frame the current styles in interior design and preserve this cultural moment keeps her behind the camera constantly. “The variety of architecture on the Peninsula makes design photography really fun,” she says. “I never know what I am going to shoot until I get there. The home has become so important right now and people are changing things up.”

Heidi looks at the craft of photography with an artistic eye and brings that sensibility to every shoot. “The interior designers in my view are kind of like artists,” she explains. “I am trying to capture their art in a moment of time.” She credits local designers with making rooms feel liveable and interesting by adding distinctive elements. “This is a very sophisticated area and people are wanting that extra touch of wallpaper that no one has seen,” she adds.

Photography: Courtesy of Bridget Lancaster

Although always drawn to photography, Heidi directly traces her vocation back to her children. Forgoing the portrait studios, she dusted off her Canon, propped her kids up on a blanket and began taking her own photos. Heidi’s friends took notice and started asking her to take pictures of their children and shoot their family Christmas cards. Soon, Heidi Lancaster Photography was born. But balancing work and family had her burning the candle at both ends. “I was editing into the wee hours of the night,” she recalls. Eventually, she started shooting a variety of subjects from products to events, and then one day a designer friend asked her to photograph a San Francisco apartment.

“I love design and using my tripod and it just clicked for me,” she remembers. As Heidi’s client roster of interior designers grew through referrals, her photos started gracing the pages of lifestyle and design publications. Popular home furnishing retailers like Serena & Lily and Pottery Barn began featuring Heidi’s images as well.

While she likens interior designers to artists, Heidi also dabbles in creating art with photography. She sells her outdoor art series—beach scenes from Positano to Malibu and a mountain sequence highlighting images of the Sierra—in boutiques and online. She also plans to release a selection of interior design art photography, such as the large unconventional photo of a colorful, modern boutique interior that hangs over her kitchen table. When she asked her family to vote on wall art for the kitchen, they unanimously chose this image. “I can stare at it and find something new every day,” observes Heidi.

When it comes to photographing a home, Heidi identifies three distinguishing elements of design. A room’s color saturation is the first, and she’s not surprised to see more color being added to homes. Next, Heidi points to the layering of patterns in fabric and wallpaper. “When the mix is done well and layered with a piece of art, it really stuns you and you want to take it all in,” she notes. Finally, balance creates a room that is pleasing to the eye, whether it is through repetition of items such as matching chairs or a color that carries through. “It is also important to have a place for the eye to rest in a photo,” she emphasizes.

In terms of design trends, Heidi sees a transition from minimalism to maximalism, a style that promotes “more is more” when it comes to colors, textures and layers. She appreciates both contemporary approaches as well as classic antiques that ground a room. “Mixing styles makes it feel like a home versus a staged house,” she imparts. “Antique furniture is like a coat from decades ago that you can throw on over a modern dress. You can put a modern vase on a desk from the 1800s and update it.”

Heidi emphasizes that homeowners want to put their own personality stamp on their interiors. “One of my clients is scouring the world for unique objects,” relays the photographer. “She is searching for light fixtures and elevated one-of-a-kind pieces. Reusing vintage pieces with a fun history is a sustainable practice showing up in design.” Heidi also underscores that with all of the layering and adding in of maximalism, people are still drawn to the relaxed, clean look in kitchens.

 

Raised in Marin, Heidi traces the influence of the outdoors as a thread running through her work today. Her father’s love for photography inspired her to pick up his high-end cameras and shoot everything she could. “I had such a passion for it,” she reflects. She took art classes throughout her education and spent time in the darkroom; however, landing a job with a wedding photographer elevated her skills to a new level. “I basically learned the business and ran it, working on lighting and shooting for three years,” she recalls. “The experience was irreplaceable.”

After college, Heidi worked at Citibank in San Francisco, where she met her husband Dave. Reflecting on what tipped her ultimate career choice, she says, “I liked the business world but when push came to shove, photography didn’t seem like work to me.”

Now, with a teenage son, two daughters still in college and one just graduated and embarking on a career in construction and design, Heidi relishes the immersive stimulation she encounters every day. “Someone asked me what my end goal was with my work,” she shares. “There is no end goal—it’s a passion. It’s the excitement of creativity and what comes next.”

Junkyard Artist

Words by Johanna Harlow

To Dan Lythcott-Haims, time is an artist.

After rediscovering photography in his late 40s, Dan began capturing shots of corrosion around scrapyards, forklift and heavy machinery rentals and auto salvage yards. “With the camera, I started to see the art in the world—and what I saw was the textures and colors and patterns and forms of decay,” shares the Palo Alto resident. “It sort of spoke to me as the art that nature and time have created.”

Dan appreciates that when elements interact on the microscopic level, they are capable of creating something exceptional on a larger scale. Rust deserves recognition because something miraculous happens when atoms on a piece of iron combine with water and oxygen to create something… more. “It’s grown into something kind of random and beautiful,” he marvels.

Similar to the transformation of a bronze patina, Dan has also developed with age. One of his big milestones was moving to his first studio at Art Bias (known as The Art Center of Redwood City back then)—because it meant recognizing himself as a professional artist. As the former creative director of Pandora’s design department, Dan’s mind has always been innovative, and yet… “I was always creative; I came from an artistic family, but I didn’t feel like I had whatever artists had,” he reflects about his early insecurities. Moving to a studio also meant invaluable mentorship opportunities. “I think my professionalism increased quite a bit while I was there. I was able to really talk to people about some of the business aspects of being an artist and selling art.”

Dan’s current studio resides at The Alameda Artworks in San Jose, and his work can be found at open studio events, exhibits and online. Previous solo shows include Schultz Cultural Arts Hall, Pacific Art League and the International Art Museum of America. In addition to being held in private collections, his creations grace the walls of local cafes.

It was through exploration at his first studio that Dan began branching out to three-dimensional art. After many photoshoot outings, he’d collected quite the assortment of bric-a-brac ranging from chains and barbed wire to washers and saw blades. “I had to do something with them,” he says. “I couldn’t just leave them. I wanted the work to come off of the flat plane of the photograph. I wanted to display them somehow.”

Soon, he started mounting his rusted gems on maple wood frames, “almost like I was presenting a jeweled object to the world,” describes Dan. “I would take a rusty nail or a rusted piece of metal and make it special by the way I was presenting it.” He allowed his pieces to evolve by intentionally leaving the wood unfinished, the color of the rust transferring to the frames over time. “Everything ages,” he observes.

One man’s trash truly is another man’s treasure—and over the years, Dan has found a gold mine in places like Alan Steel & Supply Co, a Redwood City supplier bountiful with pipes, i-beams, rolls of wire, gears and casters. “You can buy stuff by the pound, which is fun,” he grins.

One project of note is Dan’s Alchemy series. By weaving wire through perforations, he fashioned a kind of metallic textile. As he experimented with different kinds of wires and thicknesses to find the right look, Dan found a therapeutic trial and error element to the project. Old materials were too brittle for assemblage, so he found a copper wire that met his needs, then oxidized it with a vinegar spray, leaving it to soak for different lengths of time to create varied textures and shades of green. “Every piece is unique, even though the chemical reaction is the same,” he notes. “Technically, as my scientist mother-in-law would tell me, it isn’t alchemy, it’s chemistry. But the change that comes over the metals to me is magical.”

The Alchemy series was Dan’s first time using new materials. “I felt a little bit uncomfortable sort of ‘faking’ the rust, but I have met some artists and that’s what they do. They patina metal in different ways with different chemicals. So I realized it’s not fake—it’s just a different process.”

Despite all these assemblage and sculpture projects, Dan still makes time for photography. Like his Collections series, which features objects from flea markets around the Bay Area. “One of the things that I like about repetition—when I take similar or identical objects and repeat them—is that overall, there’s this emergent, organic quality.” He compares it to the ocean. “Every coral reef is unique, even though each polyp is identical.”

One of Dan’s favorite projects to date is a series of cages and keys from 2020—the largest of which holds 400 or so keys and stands at almost human-height. “I love the scale, the scope,” he says with a smile. “And it has some unexpected characteristics. It makes a beautiful noise when it’s bumped, all the little keys tinkling against each other. The visual of all the movement is wonderful and unexpected.”

Many have told Dan that the project has spoken to their feelings of isolation during the shelter-in-place. “Each viewer can find in it what they want to find in it,” he invites. But as for him… “The meaning is in the making,” says the guy who finds wonder in the junkyard.

Perfect Shot: Blue Hour at the Baylands

At the end of Marsh Road in Menlo Park, Bedwell Bayfront Park attracts many after-work walkers and runners as well as a varied assortment of sea birds. It’s also a favorite destination for Menlo Park photographer Jennifer Fraser, who captured this Perfect Shot of the post-sunset blues reflected in the water and sky.

Image by Jennifer Fraser / jenniferfraser.zenfolio.com

Calling all shutterbugs: If you’ve captured a unique perspective of the Peninsula, we’d love to see your Perfect Shot. Email us at
hello@punchmonthly.com to be considered for publication.

Diary of a Dog: Muffy

News Flash: The Loch Ness Monster has moved to Los Altos! But don’t worry—I’m Muffy, and I’ve got things under control. Surprisingly not of Scottish descent, I’m a Chihuahua mix—at least that’s what Adobe Animal Hospital told my family after they rescued me 14 years ago from a Safeway parking lot in Campbell. I’m forever grateful and do my best to protect Ross, Elizabeth, Kathryn and Caroline each day. Any given morning, you’ll find me poolside, and although I may look relaxed, I’m constantly standing guard. When I hear any movement from the creature, I launch into action. Don’t let my tiny build of 11 pounds, gentle nature and cute chest curls fool you—I have a very intimidating bark and deep snarl. I run back and forth at lightning speed between shallow and deep ends to ward off the white tubular beast. Ross and Elizabeth call the monster ‘the pool sweep’ (I know, silly right?), and I keep it at bay while they work in the garden, grill up dinner or choose to risk life and limb by actually swimming in the water. The dreadful pool monster has taunted me ever since I was a young pup. I remember minding my own business, watching its long tail move swiftly through the deep waters, but as it turned to approach, our eyes locked and it boldly sprayed my innocent muzzle. Ever since—it’s been game on! So long as I’m on watch, family, friends and even ducks are welcome to stop in for a visit. I’m the ultimate backyard protector, so everyone is safe in my paws.

Landmark: Woodside’s Spring and Sprite

Words by Jordan Greene

As you drive past Woodside’s Village Hill heading into town, the lifelike Spring and Sprite will undoubtedly catch your eye. Installed in 2010, the two bronze sculptures of a majestic thoroughbred mare and lively foal welcome visitors and commemorate Woodside’s rich equestrian heritage. In 2008, Woodside’s town council voted unanimously to approve the statues, and a campaign was launched on Woodside’s annual Day of Horses celebration to raise the necessary $108,000 in funding. Crafted by internationally acclaimed Colorado sculptor Veryl Goodnight, the striking pair weigh in at 1,200 pounds and 300 pounds, about the same weight as live horses. Goodnight describes horses as her favorite subject since childhood and credits them with being her greatest teachers. A longtime symbol of the community’s culture, horses played a vital role in Woodside’s history—whether providing transportation, plowing farmland or hauling logs. In the late 1800s and early 1900s, Woodside became known for great estates with grand stables including Folger, Why Worry and Runnymede. Today, horses and riders enjoy convenient hitching posts and hundreds of miles of trails throughout the area. As Woodside’s official greeters, Spring and Sprite require regular upkeep. Once a year, the community gathers to “groom” the mare and foal. After a thorough washing, a thin layer of wax is rubbed into the horses to preserve the bronze color of the sculptures.

Traci’s el Alto Arrival

Words by Elaine Wu

For James Beard Award-winning chef Traci Des Jardins, Los Altos might seem like an unexpected destination for her eclectic new Mexican restaurant. After all, she made a name for herself running some of San Francisco’s most recognized restaurants like Jardiniere, The Commissary, Arguello and Mijita. But after a successful 30-year culinary career, Traci has observed a noticeable change in people’s habits.

Rather than make the trek to a fine dining establishment in SF, diners eagerly seek diverse restaurant options closer to home. Pair that reasoning with the rich agricultural history of Los Altos and the Spanish-style architecture of the building that Traci’s new restaurant occupies, and you get the perfect setting for el Alto, located adjacent to the new State Street Market.

The idea for the restaurant had been percolating in Traci’s mind for quite a while. She aspired to create a restaurant that would highlight her cultural identity without limiting herself to any one particular region of Mexico. Her close relationship with her Mexican-born maternal grandparents and frequent travels there as a child inspired her passion for the food she now serves at el Alto. “It’s really about connecting the cuisine with a better understanding of the culture,” she states proudly. “You travel to Mexico and see the variety of food preparations that haven’t been accessible in restaurants and realize it’s a hidden cuisine.”

The restaurant’s menu is full of seasonal ingredients and unexpected flavors like the chrysanthemum salad, duck leg with apricot mole, tamal with wild mushrooms and the pescado a la milbrasa, a fish entree inspired by Traci’s travels. “As a child, my winters were spent on the beaches of Puerto Vallarta. We’d have a firepit and gorgeous fresh fish and roast them with Mexican salt and lime,” she recalls. “Those are the things I try to recreate.”

 

Traci acknowledges that el Alto is not the typical Mexican restaurant people might be accustomed to, and that’s the whole idea. “The exposure to different flavors and the unexpected can widen the lens for how people see Mexican food,” she says. “I’m excited by the recognition Mexican food is getting right now on the world stage. People will want to discover how Mexican food can be elevated.”

El Alto’s comfortable, modern space is bustling and intimate all at once. The communal table for walk-ins and the large bar against the back wall create an inviting after-work destination. The restaurant’s large windows, along with its black and amber color scheme, also make el Alto ideal as a stylish yet casual date spot. An added enticement is coming soon: a speakeasy downstairs, featuring a curated selection of agaves, whiskeys and seasonal cocktails.

At one point in her career, Traci was running six restaurants in San Francisco simultaneously. Needless to say, transitioning to a smaller and quieter neighborhood like downtown Los Altos has been a welcome shift. “I don’t want to have that crazy lifestyle again,” she affirms. “I appreciate the change and slowing down. It’s been surprisingly fun. I’m delighted by the community’s response and how thankful and excited they are to have us here.”

Perfect Shot: Purisima Cloud Forest

After experiencing an amazing fog layer during an evening hike at Purisima Creek Redwoods Preserve, Palo Alto photographer Brian Krippendorf clearly didn’t get enough of the breathtaking vistas. “The next morning my cat woke me up early,” he says, “so I decided to go back.” From a ridgeline trail just before 6AM, Brian captured this Perfect Shot of towering coast redwoods peeking through a dense sea of clouds.

Image by Brian Krippendorf / @briankrippendorf

Calling all shutterbugs: If you’ve captured a unique perspective of the Peninsula, we’d love to see your Perfect Shot. Email us at
hello@punchmonthly.com to be considered for publication.

Architecture: Inviting in Serenity

Words by Sheri Baer

Visit Redwood City-based SDG Architecture’s website, and a quote from renowned Mexican architect Luis Barragán is the first thing that greets you. It speaks to serenity—making your home a calm, peaceful and untroubled haven.

“It resonated with me,” says SDG founder and principal architect Steve Simpson about the premise originally expressed by Barragán over 40 years ago. “It’s an elusive goal and it’s hard to get enough of any kind of serenity—more so now than ever.”

Although Steve believes that serenity is ultimately an internal pursuit, he embraces the idea that your environment and surroundings can play a role. As he frames it, architecture has the ability to provide a conducive backdrop. He cites his own home as an example. When he leaves the office after a frequently overstimulating day of problem-solving and navigating a maze of zoning ordinances, Steve can feel the tension slipping away as he pulls into Belmont. “When I go home, where I live is serene,” he notes, “and I think one of the biggest luxuries that anybody can have is just the ability to slow down, relax and enjoy life.”

When it comes to designing serenity-inducing settings, Steve relies on basic, centering principles. “In architecture, it’s about balance and flow and connecting the inside with the outside, particularly around here where we have beautiful properties and landscapes,” he says. “A lot of it is just keeping things simple. Often, that’s something that’s overlooked. When you can, just simplify, which is probably true in life too.”

Since SDG’s establishment in 1988, Steve’s firm has completed over 500 residential projects, with about 90% on the Peninsula—including Woodside, Atherton, Los Altos, Los Altos Hills, Menlo Park and Palo Alto. Specializing in new construction, with a smattering of remodels, SDG’s work ranges from estate-sized properties to smaller, suburban sites. For every client, the goal is to strike a balance in terms of design and flow while still optimizing for desired features and function. Understanding a client’s priorities—which includes how they define serenity—guides the design process.

A comfy reading nook. The perfect setting for a piano. A view out of the house to something that makes you reflect. “Sometimes,” Steve says, “it’s just a little surprise that you can add to a house.” As an example, he cites a property in Woodside where he situated a small private garden outside the master bathroom: “You wouldn’t expect it, but we’ve hidden this little almost-Balinese outdoor shower there and that can be just a moment of serenity.”

In the case of a Portola Valley project, an empty-nester couple felt a disconnect in the home where they had raised their children. “They wanted a house that was more in line with the next phase in their life,” Steve explains, “and it wasn’t going to be an older two-story house with the master bedroom on the second floor.” Rather, on their piece of property with expansive views of Windy Hill Open Space Preserve, they envisioned a new one-story house tuned to the outdoors, with an emphasis on energy efficiency and sustainability—and nods to serenity throughout.

“We rearranged the house and now every room opens up to the outside,” Steve relays. “The views of Windy Hill were facing the front, so in this case, which is unusual, we placed the master bedroom in the front.” Clean interiors that offset the client’s vibrant collection of Aboriginal art. A little music room. Italian-crafted kitchen cabinet doors that appear and disappear to hide any counter clutter. “We end up spending a lot of time integrating details into the design—like hardware and window coverings—that you don’t see until you need them.”

SDG partnered with landscape architect Cristin Franklin to transform the property’s thirsty lawns into stunning drought-resistant landscaping and a new pool area that delivers its own transportive experience. “Although it’s just a few steps from the house,” Steve points out, “it has this resort feel to it and becomes its own little destination.”

Steve takes immense pride in each completed project but says he gets the most satisfaction in the construction phase, watching the house take shape. That’s not surprising given his roots. Born in San Francisco, Steve grew up in Fremont in a family of builders—his father was a general contractor with his brother following suit. Although Steve’s studies initially took him in a different direction, he rediscovered his passion for architecture and ultimately opened his own firm.

Steve was living in San Francisco at the time but got some timely advice from a friend on the Peninsula. “He said, ‘Why would you try to set up business in San Francisco?’” Steve recounts. “‘There are tons of architects up there and not a lot of work [at the time], and down here, there’s a lot of work and not a lot of architects.’”

In 1988, Steve launched SDG Architecture in Redwood City, which was followed by his own move to Belmont. More than three decades later, working with a team of six, he’s appreciative of the evolution he’s seeing in Peninsula architectural projects. “The expectations have gotten higher, which drives everybody, so I think the quality across the board has gotten better,” he says.

At the same time, Steve acknowledges that building custom homes has never been an easy process, and recent supply chain issues have only made it harder. Not exactly serenity-inducing conditions for clients. His approach? “It’s a lot about setting reasonable expectations for how long it’s going to take and how much it’s going to cost,” he says. “There’s a lot of balance involved both in the house and how you approach it.”

And while Steve aims to create peaceful havens for all of his clients, he’s also pragmatic about how much he can achieve. “We can provide a backdrop,” he emphasizes, “but ultimately, serenity is kind of like happiness: You have to help yourself to get there.”

Eye for the Abstract

Words by Sheryl Nonnenberg

Sandy Ostrau says she did not set out to become an artist. A visit to her Palo Alto studio, where she has been preparing for a solo exhibition at Dolby Chadwick Gallery in San Francisco, would indicate otherwise. Sandy has enjoyed notable success for several decades, with gallery representation and sales of her work to both national and international collectors. But it all started with the humble crayon.

“I was the kid who would go home to color,” she laughs. “And I was good at it!”

Sandy relates that her parents encouraged her artistic bent and, as a result, “I was always making art.” As a child she took classes at the Palo Alto Cultural Center but when it came time for the Palo Alto High School grad to declare a major at UC Santa Barbara, she opted for art history. During her undergraduate days she took numerous figure drawing classes (“just because I liked to draw”) but steered clear of the painting studio.

Fast-forward to adulthood, marriage and children and Sandy was still doing art projects: “I painted furniture and textiles and, for a while, had a business selling silk-screen and hand-painted clothing to retailers like Nordstrom.” The business did well, but when she was ready to really expand, she decided to redirect her focus.

Throughout this time, Sandy took oil painting classes at both the Cultural Center and the Pacific Art League, where she had the good fortune to study under Jim Smyth and Brigitte Curt. “They were beautiful artists, great teachers and an exceptional find for a local art center,” Sandy says. She credits their teaching as providing the basis for her work with the figure and landscape, especially working in plein air.

“I really loved outdoor painting. You learn so much about how to distill a scene and it’s a great way to learn aspects of art making, especially materials management and how to mix colors.”

Sandy continued her studies with Smyth and Curt, even as she began to show her work in small group shows both here and in the Sea Ranch area, where her family has a second home. But she feels her evolution as an artist really took a turning point when she began to participate in Open Studios, which she did for seven years. It’s something that she strongly recommends to every artist. “Open Studios is a great way to get work out there and it’s a learning curve,” she says. While opening one’s home to a stream of strangers may not be everyone’s cup of tea, Sandy found it worthwhile. “I did really well and sold a lot of paintings,” she shares. “I have a great group of friends who were clients first.”

Although those early plein air landscapes found an eager market, Sandy was ready to evolve in her style and technique. She has always admired the work of Bay Area Figurative Movement painters (David Park, Nathan Oliveira, Paul Wonner and Richard Diebenkorn) who bucked the prevailing trend of Abstract Expressionism in order to return to the figure and representational art. Using a limited range of colors, brushes and palette knives, and a wet-on-wet painting technique, Sandy focused her efforts on work that integrated the figure into the landscape, but not in a literal way. “I am interested in getting to the essence in landscape and figure,” she explains.

Looking at the paintings that she has prepared for the Dolby Chadwick show, it is clear that the Bay Area figurative painters have been a major influence for Sandy. Does she mind if people see that reference? “Not at all,” she says. “All of those artists integrated the figure into the landscape in a way that is expressionistic, gestural but representational. They did it masterfully.”

In Sandy’s paintings, which are often large in scale and very textural, thanks to layers and layers of paint that have been added and removed, the figure (or figures) is generalized with no specific gender. She explains that she “doesn’t want to give too much information” and they are often placed in a location like a beach or pier, which serves as “a metaphor for the connection of land and sea.” In Simple Pleasures, a figure at the far left of the canvas looks out to sea but instead of a line demarcating the horizon line, there are rectangular blocks of purple, red, yellow and turquoise. It is a good example of one of the questions she asks herself, “How do you integrate a figure into blocks of color?”

And color is certainly a hallmark in Sandy’s approach. She explains that she really likes to examine how color contrasts work, citing the “push-pull” theory of Hans Hoffman. She is not afraid of adding or removing color and credits all those years of working outside for her ability to mix colors successfully, never working “out of the tube.” This is obvious in Fog Rolling Across the Pier, where squares and rectangles of both bright and muted colors are stacked along the horizon line, creating unexpected contrasts and juxtapositions. The three figures are so well integrated you might miss them, if you don’t look closely enough. That would be okay with Sandy, who says she wants people to bring their own references and experiences to the paintings.

Although she works mainly in the studio these days (and never from photographs), Sandy speaks with great fondness for her early days as a plein air painter. One of her favorite locations was Baylands Park, where she was a regular for years. “It has water, trees, horizon, distant hills and beautiful color changes,” she notes. She would paint quickly and the resulting plethora of canvases were stored in pizza boxes. Her son, she recounts laughingly, would exclaim, “Not another swamp painting, Mom!”
In addition to gallery representation, Sandy has also garnered interest in her work via social media, specifically Instagram. Clients as far away as New York City, Italy and Norway have found and purchased her paintings. Pre-pandemic, she also gave private lessons and taught in workshop settings. “Teaching allows you to isolate and define your process,”
she observes.

Sandy is clearly pleased, grateful and maybe a bit surprised at her success. “My original goal was just to pay for my paint supplies,” she adds. And what advice does she give to aspiring artists? “Affiliate with a local art center or school to keep honing skills and have a regular schedule to keep making art. You need to put in the time—miles of paint on canvas!”

The Beat on Your Eats: Health Food

Words by Silas Valentino

true food

Palo Alto

This is a stand against fake food. If you are what you eat then why be anything less than true? National healthy chain True Food arrived on the Peninsula at the Stanford Shopping Center and is gaining a following for its refined menu of all-American favorites. Each dish—from the pizza to the burgers to the grilled chicken parmesan and banana pancakes—are consciously-sourced and use seasonal ingredients to enhance your inner super powers. The eatery is predicated on the anti-inflammatory food pyramid created by its founder Dr. Andrew Weil, the famed doctor of integrative medicine also recognized for his girthy, grizzled beard. Swing by for the winter menu featuring butternut squash soup and edamame dumplings. 180 El Camino Real, Suite 1140. Open Monday through Thursday from 11AM to 9PM; Friday from 11AM to 10PM; Saturday from 10AM to 10PM and Sunday from 10AM to 9PM.

eats meets west bowls

Belmont

These carefully-concocted savory saucers are a love letter to Eats Meets West’s owner Alpa Bhas’s culinary ancestry. Her parents are originally from the state of Gujarat in India and immigrated to Panama before relocating to the United States. Her family experimented with spices and ingredients in the West to reflect home dishes from the East, and by the time she was six years old, Alpa was undergoing her education in cookery. She devised the menu using a five-step process: choose a bowl style, then select a base (brown or white rice or mixed green), pick a protein, then add veggies before topping in a variety of nuts or fried crunches. As she explains, “It truly is the flavors of the East with a zest of the West.”
1602 El Camino Real, Suite A. Open Monday through Sunday from 11AM to 8PM.

mendocino farms

San Mateo • Palo Alto

It’s about a three-hour drive from here to Mendocino County, where agriculture and untouched outdoors still reign, but the sandwich, salad and bowl marketplace Mendocino Farms is just a dash away. A couple of highlights on the menu include the Smoky Chicken Elote Bowl (al pastor chicken, smoky corn, guajillo broth and ancient grains) and Mendo’s Crispy Chicken Sandwich (air-fried chicken tenders, apple and celery root slaw with roasted garlic aioli on a sesame brioche bun). Co-founders (and husband-and-wife team) Mario Del Pero and Ellen Chen partner with regional farmers to ensure tasty food that also supports the local food economy. 1060 Park Place. 167 Hamilton Avenue. Open Monday through Sunday from 11AM to 9PM.

Sweet Crunches: Granola Maker

Words by Emily McNally

The passion for the carefully crafted recipe runs deep in Lindsey Mifsud’s family. “Food is my love language,” Lindsey says with a laugh. “I come from a big, Italian family and being in the kitchen talking and cooking always came naturally to me. If I care about you, I’ll drop off something sweet or make you a meal.”

Lindsey, a Belmont native, grew up as a multi-sport athlete playing soccer, volleyball and basketball at Notre Dame High School before committing herself to softball. After a college pitching career at University of Redlands in Southern California, she became a certified nutrition coach. Lindsey’s passion for food is grounded in the science of sustenance as well as flavors passed down through generations. “I can make something that is sugar-free and all-natural that tastes great and nourishes the body,” she says. “I want to be a voice and example for healthy eating.”

Given the family connection to cooking, there’s a poetry to the fact that Lindsey made her first batch of best-selling granola in her Nonni’s kitchen. “She had blood orange-infused olive oil and these dried apricots that she uses in her biscotti recipe,” Lindsey recalls. “I made it for her and she loved it.” As the addiction to her uniquely flavored granola spread among her friends and family, Lindsey began to envision bringing her delicious concoction to the larger stage.

“I was dreaming up ideas for logos and packaging, and then more flavor profiles started to come to me. I started to think this was something I could really grow into a business,” Lindsey explains with a wide smile. As the details crystalized in her imagination, she selected LL’s Kitchen for a moniker—using the initials of her first and middle names, Lindsey Louise—then secured a cottage food license and took to social media to test the market.

Her first Facebook and Instagram posts appeared in September 2020. “Initially, it was a lot of support from my community,” she recounts, “but pretty quickly I’d overwhelmed my parents’ kitchen and had to look for professional cooking space.” Lindsey moved her operation to San Mateo’s KitchenTown where she can prepare and cook 15 trays of granola at a time, making enough to fill 120 bags of granola a day.

Lindsey credits her competitive nature with centering nutrition in her life. Though fueling for athletics had long played a significant role, she had an awakening in her junior year of college when she returned to Redlands after a semester abroad in Salzburg, Austria, and had to quickly prepare for the upcoming softball season. “I realized that I had to stop swinging from restrictive diets to indulging,” she says. ”I really wanted to eat well to feel better and compete at my highest level.”

She began to cook for herself and her roommates, becoming known on her softball team as the resident expert on food and fitness. But the impact of sports on Lindsey’s life goes beyond an intimate understanding of nutrition. “Athletics is where I learned all of my really big life lessons,” she explains. “It’s where I grew up and learned to take responsibility for both myself and a team. LL’s Kitchen is my independence project, but I get a lot of support from my family. They are my team now.”

Though the casual consumer may consider granola healthy, Lindsey points out that it’s often loaded with refined sugar and additives, which she avoids.

“LL’s Kitchen uses all-natural ingredients and honey as a sweetener instead of sugar; even our fruit is unsweetened,” she says. “I add a variety of ingredients, like walnuts, pecans and pumpkin seeds to bulk up the nutritional aspect of LL’s granola.” Lindsey’s product line has grown from the original, and still best-selling, Blood Orange and Apricot, to include her grain-free option, Paleo, as well as Cherry Vanilla and Apple Cinnamon. The latest addition to her product line are granola bars, in flavors of Super Berry, Pecan Pie and Almond Butter and Jam. “People really love an on-the-go treat,” she notes. “I’ve been surprised by their popularity.”

LL’s Kitchen granolas are sold at Preston’s in Burlingame, but the bulk of the sales come from the online store and Burlingame’s Farmers Market. Lindsey fills the occasional bulk order for events or corporate gift baskets, but she likes the personal touch of selling directly to customers. “I’m hoping to find my way into more farmers markets in the coming months. I love meeting the people I sell to and forming those relationships,” she says. “That’s been the most satisfying aspect of the business so far.”

Because her business has grown so fast, Lindsey is still a one-woman show, doing all of the cooking, packaging, delivery, shipping and direct sales herself. Though she knows she can rely on that big family that has always been her supportive team, she looks forward to hiring some help and working on the thoughtful expansion of LL’s Kitchen. She hopes to own a cafe one day where she can sell other healthy baked goods as well as her granola, but she wants to move carefully to maintain the integrity of what she’s created so far. “I’d love to have my granola all over the place,” she shares, “but I care more about the personal touch.”

Standalone Chef

Words by Silas Valentino

Arriving home from school during the 7th grade, Charlie Parker wasn’t flipping on MTV like the rest of his generation in the 1990s. Instead, he was tuning into Great Chefs – Great Cities to find ideas.

“I’d walk home from La Entrada Middle School in Menlo Park, sit on a beanbag chair and turn that on,” he says of the program that’s part of the Great Chefs franchise on PBS. “Then I’d think, ‘Okay, what can I do with hot dogs?’”

Charlie’s culinary tendencies evolved and became both a passion and a chance for the youngest of three brothers to stand out. Once, Charlie joined his mom for a trip to Sigona’s Farmers Market where a bag of free passion fruit fostered his proclivity towards gastronomy.

“I remember how the person at Sigona’s didn’t know what passion fruit was and thought they were rotten,” he says now with a smile. “They gave it away to me for free and I went home to make a passion fruit tart for my family.”

By the time he was at Woodside High School, Charlie secured his first restaurant gig working the dishwasher at A Tavola in San Carlos, which has since become TOWN. When he and friends returned home from a night out together, he would whip up gourmet grilled cheese sandwiches that went beyond buttering each side of the toast. And in between playing on various sports teams, Charlie helped John Bentley out when his restaurant was in Woodside.

Charlie’s big break came when he landed a culinary externship at Manresa in Los Gatos, learning from David Kinch’s singular style of American cooking and ingredient-driven technique. He became sous chef and his career took off, placing Charlie in lauded kitchens throughout the state.
His restaurant resume includes Freddy Smalls in Los Angeles, Haven in Oakland and Piccino in San Francisco before returning home to take the helm at Menlo Park’s Flea St. Café and Mayfield Bakery in Palo Alto. When the circumstances of 2020 led to an upheaval in his industry, Charlie chose ambition over lethargy.

What began as informal meals that he’d cook for family and friends soon evolved into Charlie Parker Provisions: made-to-order unique dinners for pick-up or complimentary delivery available three days a week.

 

The menu adapts with Northern California ingredients. Charlie is prone to French- and Italian-based dishes that he tailors with what’s in season. For instance, this time of the year is heavy on seafood, truffles and mushrooms.
In early winter, Charlie was in his element, alone in his satellite kitchen putting together orders all by his own hand. He devised a Winter Green Salad (persimmon, ricotta salata, pomegranate, almond, avocado honey vinaigrette and mint) as well as an Alaskan halibut entre complemented by cauliflower, caper salsa verde, pickled celery and beet with a navel orange finish.

He works out of a shared kitchen inside Menlo Park’s Namesake Cheesecake. He met the owner Cherith Spicer through family right after her caterer split. Charlie took on the sublease and the two work independently but are fully supportive of each other.

“Her cheesecake is amazing—please write that in there,” Charlie urges. “It’s been a change to work independently and I can get hyper-critical of myself. Cherith is very good at lightening the energy and helping me focus on the bigger picture.”

For any chef, opening a brick and mortar restaurant is the ultimate crave. However, ask a chef about their work-life balance and they’ll likely guffaw. The woes of running a restaurant have intensified in the past year as help becomes harder to hire. Charlie’s provisional enterprise affords him autonomy in the kitchen like he’s never had before, answering only to his own creativity—as well as his nine-year-old son.

“I’m so happy to say that I have a great job where I can create my own hours so I can still find time to spend with my son and not feel like I can’t leave the ship,” he beams.

Charlie reserves Mondays for his day off. Otherwise, he’s up at 5:30AM and at the gym before the start of the hour. If he’s lifting weights, he’s likely listening to records from the Golden Age of Hip Hop (he cites The Low End Theory by A Tribe Called Quest as an all-time favorite) but when he’s back home perusing a cookbook, Charlie opts for jazz giants like Miles Davis and John Coltrane to play in the background and help him focus—after all, it’s all in his name.

Even as Charlie nurtures the growth of his take-out business, he’s simultaneously branching out into catering small events. He’ll serve as a personal chef for house parties that can range up to 25 plates. It’s good for business but more so a chance for him to escape the kitchen and embrace the front-of-house side of his craft.

“I know how to cook but what can I do to make this a heightened experience for the guests? The food is flawless but you also have to be an entertainer,” he resolves.

“I can be introverted and I’m not a showman but I provide guests with an education about where the dish came from. When I go out to eat, I love the confidence when someone describes the dish but I don’t like to feel bombarded. When it comes to talking about food, it’s natural for me.”

Charlie may detail for guests how he’s transitioning into traditional cooking that embraces simplicity. Whereas a younger chef might overdo garnishes to create a plate that inspires a showy photo, Charlie instead is exploring more soulful food with depth to flavor.

“It’s nice to slow everything down and bring it back to a more primitive state, if you will,” he says. “Doing this for people helps bring me to the truth. It’s what I like to do most—it’s good for the soul.”

Grilled Cheese on Sliced Sourdough with
Maitake Mushrooms and Meyer Lemon Pistou

Ingredients
2 large slices sourdough
1 maitake mushroom
(Remove the foot of the
mushroom and saute cap
with 1 Tbsp olive oil and 1 clove minced garlic until
the mushroom is golden
brown. Season with salt.)
½ cup grated Fontina cheese
½ cup grated white
cheddar cheese
½ cup grated Monterey
Jack cheese
2 tabs room temperature
butter
1 bunch Italian parsley
(stems removed, blanched
and minced)
1 large shallot (minced)
1 Meyer lemon (the zest)
½ cup extra virgin olive oil
1 Tbsp champagne vinegar
Salt and black pepper
to taste

Directions
In a small mixing bowl, mix together the blanched and minced parsley, minced shallot, the Meyer lemon zest, champagne vinegar and extra virgin olive oil. Season with salt and black pepper to taste. Preheat the oven to 325F. Heat a medium-size saute pan over low heat. Spread the butter over the sliced sourdough bread. Mix the three cheeses together and assemble the sandwich with the buttered bread side facing outward: sliced sourdough, cheese mixture, sauteed maitake mushrooms, pistou, cheese mixture, black pepper and sliced sourdough. Lightly season the sandwich with salt and saute until each side is golden brown. Finish the sandwich in the oven for four minutes to make sure all the cheese is melted and the mushrooms are warmed through. Let the sandwich rest for a minute before serving. Slice into three pieces and serve with more Meyer lemon pistou on the side.

Landmark: Palm Drive

It’s one of the views most associated with Stanford University: iconic Palm Drive leading to campus. Originally planted in 1893, the one-mile stretch of parallel Canary Island palm trees creates a majestic path that opens up to views of Stanford’s Oval, Quad and Memorial Church. From 1886-1888, famed landscape architect Frederick Law Olmsted developed the plan for Stanford University and encouraged Leland Stanford to take a Mediterranean-style approach to the campus. His last major additions to the plan included Palm Drive and the Oval. Stanford’s first president, David Starr Jordan, is credited with advocating for the specific style of tree to mark the school’s grand entrance. “These long corridors with their stately pillars, these circles of waving palms, will have their part in the students’ training as surely as the chemical laboratory or seminary room,” Jordan proclaimed in his 1891 Opening Day address. With more than 160 majestic palms lining the route, Palm Drive was initially a bumpy, pothole-ridden dirt road but in preparation for motorized vehicles, the street was resurfaced in an oil and gravel mixture followed decades later by asphalt-cement. As early as 1905, Palm Drive was beset by traffic issues, which led to restricting it to horse-drawn carriages, bicycles and pedestrians. The ban on automobiles and “gasoline bicycles” was lifted by trustees in 1914, and the street returned to providing a “frondly” welcome for Stanford visitors. Averaging 50 to 60 feet tall at maturity, many of the statuesque trees were originally imported from outside the U.S. and planted as seedlings—with donations and local neighborhood rescues contributing to replacements over the years.

Oasis of Calm: Watercolorist Tony Foster

Words by Sheryl Nonnenberg

It has been described as a “hidden gem” and an “oasis of calm in the midst of Silicon Valley.” It is The Foster, a 14,000-square-foot former industrial warehouse in Palo Alto that houses the work of just one artist, Tony Foster. But far from being a monographic museum, The Foster has a broader and very timely mission: “to inspire connection to art and the natural world.”
How the museum’s creator and staff have undertaken to achieve this lofty goal is a unique story and one that could only happen on the Peninsula, in the cradle of innovation. It is also a case study in how a nonprofit institution learned to pivot and adapt to the unexpected disruption caused by a worldwide pandemic.

The Foster is the brainchild of Jane Woodward, a lifelong Palo Alto resident and adjunct professor at Stanford University. Jane, a geologist, is also a founder of MAP Energy, an energy investment firm. During a visit to the Natural History Museum at the Smithsonian in the late 1980s, Jane first encountered a Tony Foster watercolor wilderness Journey—John Muir’s High Sierra. This led to her meeting Tony and she began to collect Foster’s artworks. Deciding that each of Foster’s Journeys, a series of artworks based on a wilderness theme, makes a more forceful statement when seen in its entirety, she embarked upon a plan to create a nonprofit museum to hold them intact and share them.

After acquiring Sacred Places: Watercolor Diaries from the American Southwest, Jane began to form The Foster in 2013, and the museum opened its doors to the public in 2016.

CAPTION: The Sacred Places gallery at The Foster in Palo Alto, CA. Photo by Eileen Howard. Courtesy of The Foster

Soon, school groups, senior groups, artists and naturalists were making appointments to visit and enjoy Tony Foster’s depictions of such far-flung places as Mount Everest, Costa Rica, Guyana, the Grand Canyon and the Andes. Educational programming that included lectures, art lessons and tours were in full swing, only to be curtailed by COVID in March of 2020. “Approximately 20,000 visitors came to the museum during the first four years,” notes co-director Anne Baxter. “We were rolling and building, so it was frustrating to have a seizure of all that programming.”

It was also a drastic change for the 75-year-old Tony Foster who, for 40 years, has been traveling the globe in order to create his watercolor diaries. A native of Cornwall, England, Foster started out as an art educator and Pop artist but soon discovered that his love of travel, passion for the environment and skills as a watercolorist could be combined. One of his first expeditions was to follow in the footsteps of Henry David Thoreau by walking and canoeing around the remote parts of New England. Interest in the resulting watercolors inspired him to continue his passion as an artist-explorer, and soon Foster had developed a network of fellow travelers, scientists and art collectors who wanted to help and sometimes join along. “Tony is charismatic and gregarious but also humble and kind,” observes Anne. “He has always attracted people who believe in him and support him.”

Fellow adventurers, whom Foster refers to as “companions,” do everything from arranging for equipment to setting up tents to making food for the group. Some are collectors who want to see and experience the landscapes Foster captures. Others are naturalists who just enjoy the challenge of living in the wild. For Foster, the objective is clear: “I have drawn my inspiration from the sublime beauty of the wilderness.”

Once Foster has found the desired setting, he sets up his work space and paints for hours at a time. Watercolor, because it is quick-drying and very portable, is his medium of choice. He has worked in some of the most adverse conditions—rain, wind, snow and sleet, and has even sketched underwater (he is a longtime scuba diver). Foster often completes his work back in Cornwall but never refers to photographs. Instead, he relies upon his detailed diary entries and the various souvenirs that he might paint, be gifted or gather onsite. These could be leaves, rocks, feathers or pieces of bone. Oftentimes, these small objects will be placed at the bottom of his framed work. They serve as talismans and reminders of the fragile nature of these locations.

Told by a New York City gallerist that his work was unacceptable because it was “just too beautiful,” Foster has embraced his role as chronicler of places that are awe-inspiring and worthy of saving for future generations. A look at the catalog, Exploring Beauty, reveals the extraordinary range of his representational skills. The Atacama Desert in Chile is a study of brown and ochre hues, a rugged landscape devoid of human interaction. In France, Mont Blanc takes center stage, snow-covered and remote, while the foreground is dotted with spring flowers and green hills. Even the frigid landscape of Greenland is lovingly portrayed in pastel hues, while Foster’s diary explains, “worked from 8:00am to 11:30pm, frozen and exhausted.”

CAPTION: Tony Foster with painting in situ at Point Sublime, Grand Canyon. September 30, 2004. Photo by John Frazier. Courtesy of Foster Art & Wilderness Foundation.

“His art is really a story, from the time he tears off the first piece of paper to the final brushstroke,” notes co-director Eileen Howard. She shares that a trip to Green River as part of his next Journey had to be postponed due to the pandemic but that Foster has found inspiration close to home. “He reconnected with beauty in his own backyard,” she says, “creating a series of Lockdown Diaries.” Another earlier project, entitled A Year in the Life of a Cornish Hedge, captures the seasonal changes of a spot he passes by each day.

The Foster staff has kept busy since the museum’s closure. Anne explains that Jane suggested pivoting to online programming, continuing many of their art lessons and lectures. “Tony was resistant to Zoom at first,” she recalls, but soon he was participating in a series of interviews (“Conversations with Tony Foster”) that can be seen on the museum’s website. In addition, Eileen shares that the museum is overseeing a Journey Exhibition Archival Project, in which every aspect of Tony’s 17 Journeys is being documented. They work from the art and artifacts collected during each trip, interviews, maps and Tony’s diary notes. Consultation with Tony allows them to record the ‘where, how, who and why,’ along with the effects of each one. Says Anne, “People love Tony and we also share his mission of protecting wilderness areas. That is the bigger mission.”

The museum is currently accessible by appointment, and The Foster staff is in the process of planning how to more broadly reopen the museum to the public and to ramp up its programming. They are also open to renting the facility to organizations aligned with their environmental mission. But first, the public needs to find their way to this industrial district in south Palo Alto.

Museum manager Deb Waltimire, who recently joined the staff after a stint at the Disney Family Museum, acknowledges, “We are a hidden gem in a commercial area.” Anne agrees, adding, “So much thought has been given to the experience here, the colors, the lighting, the displays. It’s a lovely, engaging mood.”

The staff has considered other potential sites but ended up feeling that they are right where they belong. “You don’t have to travel the world, but if you want to, come to The Foster,” encourages Eileen.

And what will the long-term future hold for this art museum with a mission? Anne speaks with assurance that The Foster will continue to protect and share Tony Foster’s Journeys and message. “We are really committed to that,” she asserts.

As for Jane, whose passion for the environment and conservation converged with the peripatetic Journeys of a watercolorist from Cornwall to create a truly unique institution? She hopes, “That we become better known as a hidden jewel museum here in Palo Alto—a place of beautiful art and peaceful reflection.”

Julia Morgan’s Western White House

Words by Eva Barrows and Sheri Baer

Driving through Lower South Hillsborough, it’s possible to catch a glimpse of the United States’ most iconic residential structure. Okay, it’s not the actual White House, but it does make you take a second look. What’s peeking through the trees on El Cerrito Avenue is an all-white neoclassical 25,000-square-foot Georgian colonial mansion that looks so much like the real thing that it’s called the Western White House.

This Hillsborough estate is legendary for being redesigned by one of California’s most distinguished architects, Julia Morgan, for one of the country’s most well-known families, the Hearsts.

But its rich history dates back even earlier. Originally constructed in 1878, the estate was purchased by the Crocker family, followed by Burlingame contractor Charles Lundgren, who deployed engineering wizardry in 1915 to physically move the mansion a half-mile to its current location. In 1930, George Hearst, the eldest son of newspaper baron William Randolph Hearst, tapped famed California architect Julia Morgan to redesign the property, after which the house passed through a series of owners, including the founder and developer of Foster City and a shoe tycoon family.

In 1997, financial services executive Shailesh Mehta and his wife Kalpa made the Western White House their home. When the property recently went back on the market, PUNCH seized the opportunity to learn more about its fascinating history and what it’s like to live on one of the Peninsula’s palatial—and most presidential—estates.

Constructed by prosperous families during the Gold Rush era, very few of Hillsborough’s legacy estates remain. Along with the Carolands Chateau built for Pullman railcar heiress Harriet Pullman Carolan, the Western White House is a prized reminder of the region’s Gilded Age architectural grandeur.

Not only did the Western White House start out in a different location, it started out with a different name. The original shingle-style mansion, Uplands I, was built in 1878 for one of the town’s founding fathers, William Henry Howard. At that time, the roof was steeply pitched with soaring chimneys and domed turret rooftop windows adding Victorian character. After George Hearst bought the property, he commissioned architect Julia Morgan to bring presidential grandeur to the Peninsula while she was in the midst of constructing Hearst Castle, his father’s San Simeon, California, estate.

Morgan was the first woman architect licensed to practice in California and the first woman to graduate from Paris’ prestigious Ecole des Beaux-Arts architectural program. She transformed the formerly dark Victorian into a light and breezy classical home fit for a U.S. president—complete with a rose garden, cherry blossom trees and oval office.
Situated on 2.9 acres and about half the size of its inspirational East Coast counterpart, the mansion boasts 24 rooms, including 11 bedrooms, 10 full baths and 4 half baths.

 

After residing in the Western White House for nearly a quarter-century, Shailesh and Kalpa Mehta were ready to downsize and enjoy a more travel-oriented lifestyle. Now living in Atherton, they’ve had time to reflect on their chapter in the iconic Hillsborough mansion, and Shailesh sat down with PUNCH to share some insights and memories.

What drew you to buy the property back in 1997?

There were several factors that played a role. We had a growing family, a son and a daughter. We were absolutely impressed by the grounds and the beauty—three acres of flat land with two sides bordered by a creek. It’s extremely private with fully manicured gardens and a big swimming pool, so the grounds were very impressive. The house was gorgeous, designed by Julia Morgan, the famous architect. It had very interesting previous owners, and security was terrific because the house is not visible from the street. Therefore, we felt that it would be a very safe and secure home.

How did you feel about living in a home known as the Western White House?

Actually, I have mixed feelings about it. On one hand, some people get very impressed that this is the Western White House; on the other hand, I thought it was a little bit of a loud statement for myself and my family. We’re not “White House-type” people. We didn’t buy it because of that name. We didn’t even realize until after we decided to buy it that this was how it was known. The story that I heard was that one of the Hearsts had an aspiration to be president of the United States and therefore the Georgian design that Julia Morgan chose was in line with the White House—the kind of remodeling she did to create the turret into an oval office, and the entry looks like the pillars, and it’s one of the rare houses that has the front and side and back all ornate. So it’s a really beautiful home, and it does look like the White House.

What did you enjoy most about living on the property?

I loved the layout. The house has a basement and three levels, and it has an elevator. There are four different floor plans: the basement, the first floor, the second floor and the third floor. We organized the house so that the first floor, the main floor, has the public rooms, so we had a living room, formal dining room, formal living room, a parlor, the oval office, and then a family room and a kitchen, and it was all public area, so when we had visitors or would host a social event, people could come and go. The second floor was all bedrooms, and we converted it to a private floor. The master suite is huge. It’s almost like half a floor with his and her bathrooms, the bedroom and an office in it. The third floor we made into an entertainment floor, so we had a game room, a pool table and a movie theater, and you can sit outside on the terrace. The unusual height is grandfathered, so you can see all the grounds and the trees. And then we had one guest suite on that floor. And the basement has all the utilities and services rooms, and there’s also a beautiful wine cellar and I built a big gym to work out. Even though it’s a big home, it’s a very practical and usable home. It doesn’t feel like a huge mansion. It’s warm, and you feel like you can live in it.

What struck you most about the historical nature and design of the home?

The experience was very unique in the sense that it’s a beautifully laid out house. There is not much square footage wasted the way Julia Morgan designed it. It has a rich history but it’s not an historical home, so we were able to make necessary changes, to bring things more in line with today’s requirements and current lifestyle than from when it was built. We were able to make adjustments without losing the character of the home. When we did this, we realized how well built the home was. The way she structured it, it was so solid. We were surprised by the width of the beams and she added layers of bricks between some of the sidewall to give it further strength and that’s why this house was never affected by any earthquakes. And the tiles! Julia Morgan loved using stonework or tiles from a quarry in Sacramento, I was told. Gorgeous, beautiful tiles. She had a very unique eye for stonework.

How did you experience the home as a family?

We have grown-up children and teenage grandchildren now, and they all loved it. We have four grandkids, and my grandkids were crying when we decided to move out. The house was always packed on weekends and holidays. We celebrated Thanksgiving, we celebrated Christmas, we celebrated Diwali, we celebrated so many festivals. My son lives in San Francisco with his family, so they would come and stay over the weekend. My daughter lives in Santa Barbara, and when they would come up, my son and his family would join, so the whole house was filled. The grandkids loved the pool and the movie theater. Not just for watching movies—they would make their own shows, magic shows and skits. The house has four different ways to go up and down, so they had a lot of fun playing hide and seek as they grew up. We have so many great memories. When they found out that we were going to list it, our two granddaughters hid notes under my pillow and my wife’s pillow that said, “Don’t sell! Don’t sell!”

Who do you envision being the next owner?

In my mind, properties like this are unique properties, and so the buyers are also very unique. It’s not your standard run-of-the-mill home on the market. There is a demand for houses, but for this kind of property, the demand is different and the buyer is different. I would say it’s a CEO or celebrity-type home or a sports athlete or an international buyer who wants an iconic property. People who want security and safety but still want to do a lot of entertaining, whether it’s political fundraisers or charity events. Some young couple might fall in love with this property, especially if they have three or four children. We always found it very lucky for us and our family. Some houses have good vibes when you are in them, and that’s the sense we had when we moved there.

Getaway: Russian River R&R

Words by Sophia Markoulakis

Highway 116 cuts through groves of redwoods and glistening fields of ferns with fresh dew. Winding our way through the intense greenery and towering redwoods of the Russian River Valley, we felt like we were entering Fangorn Forest, Tolkein’s mythical place where trees come alive and hobbits thrive.

The Russian River Valley and the towns that dot its landscape were established during the late 1800s when the San Francisco and North Pacific Railroad built tracks to transport lumber, and later tourists, down to San Francisco and back. For the last hundred years, as industries evolved, towns like Guerneville, Forestville and Monte Rio have seen their fair share of subcultures latch on in these parts, only to be uprooted by the next flock or fad. But, the pursuit of physical and spiritual wellness remains a big part of the Russian River Valley, and it tethers many members of these communities to the area. Although the meandering flow of the Russian River is a magnet for those looking to escape the summer’s heat, during the winter, the region tends to go dormant and allows visitors to see a more authentic Russian River Valley.

Wellness Oasis

The Stavrand Russian River Valley, a newly refurbished boutique hotel in the heart of the valley and minutes from Guerneville, provided us with the ideal location to explore the area and indulge in wellness offerings. The Stavrand’s new ownership is spearheaded by Emily Glick, a Kimpton Hotels veteran with a lifelong love of travel and exploration. Emily didn’t set out to acquire a property. She was seeking a creative outlet when COVID-19 forced the closure of the San Francisco Kimpton she was managing. The Spanish-Revival property, formerly the Applewood Inn, was on the market and too good to pass up. The Stavrand opened in September 2021.

The project encompassed an overhaul of all outdoor and indoor public spaces, including the 21 rooms that occupy three buildings—Belden, Cazadero and Armstrong. Belden, built in 1822, remains the most aesthetically tied to its past. Cazadero and Armstrong, built more recently, carry a coastal-warm California vibe with Talavera tile-surround fireplaces, natural fiber rugs, birchwood headboards and leather seating. It was important for Emily and the team to create a luxury boutique property that had all the amenities of a one-of-a-kind wellness experience, from outdoor private cedar-soaking tubs and s’mores-equipped fire pits to resort-like splurges including a private chef and the use of bikes and kayaks. “We used a whiteboard to work through how to be the best in every type of property—be it a boutique hotel, resort or even an Airbnb,” Emily says.

Our room, in the Armstrong building, had unobstructed views of towering redwoods from windows and a balcony and was outfitted with comfortable seating for two and enough room for morning salutations. A memory foam-topped king bed with luxury linens, a tile-surround soaking tub and warm wood floors tempted us to linger; but we had exploring to do before dinner.

Minutes from the property is the iconic Armstrong Woods. It’s hard not to notice remnants of the fire on the forest floor left behind from the August 2020 Walbridge Fire. But, the 1,400-year-old redwood Colonel Armstrong was saved and remains the park’s main attraction. As we explored some of the three trails that are currently open—the Pioneer Trail, Armstrong Nature Trail and Discovery Trail—we met up with a docent from the Stewards of the Coast and Redwoods, who shared his perspective that fires are necessary for the forest’s ecosystem.

We made it back to the property in time to enjoy a fresh blueberry cocktail that Emily was mixing up in the central courtyard, opposite the outdoor guest reception desk. We chatted about the history of the property and then carried our drinks up a string-lit trail to an upper meadow and enjoyed the sunset accompanied by a family of deer who seemed oblivious to our picture-taking.

Intimate Dining

Every night there’s a different three-course, wine-pairing menu and our dining experience was on par with the area’s most coveted reservations. The property’s seasonally-driven culinary program is rooted in a dedicated year-round orchard and vegetable garden that provides healthy fresh provisions from Chef Jeremy Clemens and his team.

Breakfast was just as stellar as dinner, and the vanilla-lavender bacon and a local egg scramble with house-made chili sauce was perfect fuel for our morning hike on the Pomo Canyon and Red Hill Trail. We started at the Jenner Beach parking lot and hiked the Pomo Canyon Trail to the fork, where you can either continue on or loop back to the beach via the Red Hill Trail. No matter which route you choose, you’ll have spectacular views of the ocean and walk through redwood groves.

Spa Spectacular

A well-earned spa reward was now in order, and we headed inland on the River Road and made our way to Forestville’s Farmhouse Inn and Wellness Barn. In 2021, brother and sister co-owners, Joe and Catherine Bartolomei, hired Irisha Steele to revamp the spa and its treatment menu. “I learned the essence of Sonoma County while building this out,” says Irisha, who last headed up the Remede Spa at Aspen’s St. Regis Resort. She sourced retail and treatment products locally and had Sebastopol-based Sumbody Skincare create a custom body oil infused with flowers and herbs that are grown on the property. “Our custom blend reminds me of Farmhouse first thing in the morning. I’ll wander with my cup of coffee and take in the scents. We were able to put that fresh forest smell in a bottle,” she says. “It’s very grounded and peaceful.”

I opted for Gems and Stones, which incorporates a therapeutic massage with warm basalt stones and cool gemstones treated with different infused oils. After 90 minutes, I felt simultaneously relaxed and rejuvenated, thanks to the circulatory effects of the cold and hot stones. It was hard to part ways with the Wellness Barn and its indoor-outdoor vibe, heated marble floors and cozy fireplace; but as with all escapes, it was time to relinquish ourselves to reality and return home.

Life Gaines

Words by Jennifer Jory

Light streams into PerformanceGaines on California Avenue in Palo Alto, illuminating weight racks and TRX equipment hanging from the ceiling. A kettlebell class is underway, and owner and fitness guru Christopher Gaines moves through the brightly lit studio to tailor the exercises and maximize their effectiveness. “Push your feet into the ground,” he instructs. “You’re trying to create an imprint in the ground in the shape of your foot.” After noting more solid stances, he calls out another adjustment. “Shoulders are ear poison,” he guides. “Bring your shoulders down and relax your neck.”
The cues flow naturally, which isn’t surprising. Chris earned a degree in Human Biology at Stanford, while putting his own body to the test playing both rugby for three years and football for one year at Stanford. After graduation, he honed his skills as the fitness and training coach for both Stanford’s Men’s and Women’s rugby teams before venturing out on his own.

A longtime Peninsula resident, Chris opened PerformanceGaines in 2009 to offer a blended approach of physiology, body mechanics and elite athletic training. A husband and father of three young children, Chris works with a team of like-minded coaches to provide personal training and personalized classes aimed at helping people achieve long-term fitness that impacts their everyday lives. He maintains that counting steps and exercise repetitions is less important than the quality of a workout and meeting a client’s unique goals. We stopped by to talk with Chris about his holistic philosophy and techniques and to get some healthy start tips for 2022.

What motivated you to become a personal trainer?

When I was a kid, both my parents were in the medical profession. My dad was a surgical technician and my mom was a medical transcriptionist. I didn’t have video games at home, so when I was bored, I would go to a bookshelf and look through the medical books. From then on, the human body has always been a passion of mine.

Why did you decide to open PerformanceGaines?

I wanted to bring my passion for movement to people who crave continual progress in their lives. I want to help people move, perform and live better even if they’re not competing at an elite level. If you’re going to spend time in your day working out, it should impact the way you live. The impact could be standing up with more ease or just being able to have kids jump on your back without worry.

Why is your approach successful?

The way I look at fitness is that there isn’t one solution that works for everyone. When working one on one, or even in a small group, our programs address what someone actually needs. In other words, what matters in their life today and the way they want to live tomorrow.

One of your mantras is, ‘When you change how you move, you change how you live.’ What do you mean by that?

The way you live relies on how you move, whether it’s your ability to do something or the ease with which you do it. Your experience during everyday activities impacts the enjoyment you get out of life. When there’s something physical holding you back from life’s activities, we work with you to figure out what’s getting in the way and what to do about it. This changes how you live—it’s personalized fitness that goes beyond the workout itself.

What kind of wellness practices do you advocate for long-term fitness?

There’s lots of research to show that movement is the best medicine out there for most everything. Some people come to us because they haven’t been able to reach a particular goal. Usually, this is because of a nagging issue, which leads to the loss of physical confidence. We help people focus on what’s not moving, so they can change that. Then we arm them with new knowledge and techniques that they can do right now. Through consistent practice, they’re able to approach their fitness long-term.

Have you faced any physical challenges personally?

For many years I lived with what I considered to be bad knees. I wouldn’t say I was miserable, but every day I was aware of what I couldn’t do because of the pain. Then I went to a kettlebell certification and began practicing swings everyday. One day, after practicing swings for a while, I demonstrated a squat for a client. To my surprise, for the first time in years, without pain. The kettlebell swings helped me unlock something in how I used to move that I hadn’t been accessing. To me, it’s not what you do but how you do it. What I care about is helping people find their own strength so they can feel more capable in their lives.

New Approach to a New Year

According to Chris, gyms usually see a surge in activity in January, but it typically wanes by the end of the month. “There’s this perceived expectation—because of an arbitrary date that aligns with the new year—that we should do something different,” he explains. “Instead, we need to consider what’s important to us personally so that it sticks.” Here are Chris’s suggestions for taking more ownership of your wellness journey in 2022.

Lifestyle: Instead of setting goals around what you think you should be doing, figure out what really matters to the way you live your life. To be successful, what you do inside the gym needs to have a meaningful impact outside the gym. It needs to have relevance in your everyday life.

Training: To build good habits, focus on the ‘Big Rocks’: Sleep, Mobility and Body Control. If you sleep well, you’ll be more likely to work out or eat a certain way. If you have the mobility to move through a full range of motion, you’ll likely reduce the chance of soreness or injury, which will increase your chances of working out more consistently. And if you demonstrate control—going slowly to really ‘own’ a movement—you’ll notice your progress more readily, enjoy it more and be more likely to stick with it.

Mindset: Remember, it doesn’t have to be perfect the first time you do it. Perfectionism is a procrastinator’s best friend—it’s a way to validate not starting or finishing something. You just have to start at level zero and gradually add intensity, load or speed. Over time, you’ll be surprised by how far you can go.

Diary of a Dog: Dre

Y es, I’m just that content. In fact, if you look up the definition of contentment, you’ll find my name: Dre. Okay, I’m kidding, but it’s only because the dictionary writers haven’t met me yet. If they had, they’d also include my name under the definition of “true mutt” because I’m believed to be a mixture of Dachshund, Beagle and Border Terrier with perhaps a dash of Corgi. It must be a winning combination because a photo of irresistible me is what brought me to my forever home. Four years ago, my family (Ben, Kelly, Kogan and Bo) had just moved to Menlo Park, and as Kelly tells the story, Ben was so excited about their new big backyard that he thought it would be “brilliant” to surprise her with a puppy. “Before I knew it,” Kelly says, “I had a two-month-old puppy and a four-month-old baby on my hands—I cried.” Just imagine that, crying with happiness at the sight of me! Kogan, who was four at the time, instantly fell in love and proclaimed me “Draymond Green,” after his favorite Warriors player. Draymond turned into Dre, and I grew up keeping a close watch on baby Bo. One time, he cut his finger and needed stitches and I felt so badly for him that I yelped and moaned right alongside him through the entire ordeal. Mostly though, I’m always smiling ear to ear. In fact, neighbors who pass us on walks take one look at my gleeful grin and always comment, “Wow, that’s one happy dog!” Content, happy Dre—that’s me, whether I’m officially in the dictionary or not

The Hanukkah Miracle

Words by Sloane Citron

My family, except for our son who lives in Israel, was finally all getting together to light the candles on the last night of Hanukkah, the holiday of the miracle. It’s called that because 2,200 years ago, after the Maccabean Jews regained control of Jerusalem and rededicated the Temple, there was only enough oil for one night for lighting the Temple lamp and yet it lasted eight nights.

The 14 of us planned to assemble early on Sunday afternoon after my daughter Arielle, her husband Danny and their two sons (one a newborn) flew in from their home in Los Angeles. It was a day that I had been looking forward to, since I knew that this year the two older grandchildren, having recently turned three, were mature enough to have some understanding of what we were doing, be able to sing the prayers and songs and enjoy opening their presents.

While the clean-up is a bit onerous and falls to me, I love the absolute commotion of these get-togethers. My wife was smart and ordered a bouncy house for the backyard, since, with six grandchildren, it was definitely a party. One family after another arrived, the kids streaming inside to see their cousins, their aunts and uncles, their safta and saba. The house reverberated with the cacophony of voices, screams and singing.
The bouncy house was a big hit, and the kids spent close to an hour cascading off the sides of the air-filled play towers, the netted walls and each other. An occasional collision caused some momentary tears before the affected were quickly back into action. Except for the newborn, they all loved rolling around, shooting balls into the rubber hoop and jumping into each other.

When the sun went down around five, we calmed the children down a bit and prepared for the big event—lighting the candles. There was one Hanukkiah for each family, four in all. Thanks to my kids and their spouses, their children already have a good grasp of the prayers and songs that are all part of the lighting ceremony. Seeing all nine candles (one is used for lighting) brightly burning, the overhead lights turned off for effect, was a spectacular sight and a special spiritual moment for us all.

One of the challenges for little Jewish kids is learning the difference between birthday candles, which, of course, they get to blow out, and the candles for Shabbat and our holidays, which decidedly they do not get to blow out. So there is a moment of indecision for the children when their initial inclination is to blow and their parents have to yank them away so that the candles can burn down naturally.

Once this was done, it was time for presents. We are not really a “wrapping” family and each family—oldest child Josh and wife Adara going first—took their turn handing out their gifts. This meant, though, that each child received six or more exciting new things to pore over, from books to stuffed animals to Paw Patrol backpacks and Thomas train sets. Of course, it was too much, but there was great joy in seeing their happy faces. Then it was time for dinner, which, because no one wanted to take away time from the gettogether, we ordered in from a local restaurant. Lots of salmon, salad and fries. Of course, we had latkes and applesauce, and dreidels and gold chocolate coins were flying everywhere.

Late that afternoon, however, before the candle lighting, we had decided to go on a walk around the block, a good way to have the kids burn off even more of their unlimited energy and a pleasant way to enjoy the autumn coolness. As we readied for the walk, however, my daughter Talia realized that she had accidentally forgotten to bring shoes for her youngest child Levi. I suggested she search her car to see if there were any hidden away, and after rummaging around she found one right foot shoe, but only that single one. My kids are easygoing about such things, which I think is a wonderful trait, and Talia and her husband Sam were fine with little Levi riding in a wagon with no shoes.

“Just wait a minute,” I told them, and I ran upstairs to our attic and pulled out the first cardboard box resting there, full of old children’s clothes stored for some 25 years. I dumped the entire contents onto the floor, and there it was, one—and only one—little shoe, a left-footed boys desert boot that looked to be about the right size. I grabbed it and ran down to the front yard and placed it, Cinderella-like, onto Levi’s foot, where it fit perfectly.
It was a magical moment, one that could not be planned or ever duplicated. We all laughed hysterically and agreed wholeheartedly that this was the true Hanukkah miracle of 2021!

Weather Whisperer

Words by Silas Valentino

If Jan Null is stirred from his slumber in the middle of the night due to the patter of rain outside, he can forget about catching any more Zs.
“For most meteorologists, when the weather wakes you up, you can’t get back to sleep,” he admits. “The worst is if it’s raining and I didn’t forecast for it …”

The meditative sound of falling rain is not the sonic of relaxation for Jan; instead, it represents infinite drops of data that he intently studies.
Through his efforts, Jan has become the go-to source for weather information in the Bay Area. If you’ve checked a weather report on the Peninsula in the last 47 years, there’s a good chance that Jan had some part in its analysis.

Following 23 years at the National Weather Service where he ultimately served as the lead forecaster for the Bay Area, Jan struck out on his own in 1998 with a consulting company called Golden Gate Weather Services.
Jan provides forensic meteorology services to assist legal and insurance professionals (his wife Susan Hollis jokes that he does “CSI: Weather”) and he’s been retained in over 600 cases while testifying in some 40 trials.

Elsewhere in his career, Jan established an oft-consulted weather index, created one of the first (if not the first) National Weather websites and he’s even renamed a regional wind pattern; following the 1991 Oakland firestorm, he dubbed what was once the Santa Ana winds as the Diablo wind to describe hot, dry wind from the northeast.

Impressive achievements all, but Jan’s proudest contribution is the decades of research he’s generated on Pediatric Vehicular Heatstroke, leading to countless children’s lives saved from overheating inside calescent cars.
As a devotee to data, Jan’s output for local meteorological research is essentially unquantifiable; however, he and his career are illuminating data points for understanding the weather, and how we’re always getting better at doing so.

“I’m coming up on 47 and a half years and probably the thing I’ve noticed that’s changed the most is the accuracy of forecasts,” he says. “Back when I started, there was only a three-day forecast and that was considered cutting-edge. Now we’re up to seven days in a forecast—we’ve gained a day each decade of my career!”

The daily routine of weather analysis begins at 5AM when Jan typically awakens and heads into his home office with a banana and a glass of juice in hand. His favorite coffee mug was from a swag table at a meteorology conference. It simply says “Integrity” and Jan takes sips with intention.
He combs his hair neatly to the side and cuffs both ends of his jeans. Sometimes he has a pair of Apple AirPods sticking out of his ears as he attends to the latest novel from Michael Connelly. Jan is an avid reader, habitually consuming two works of fiction at a time to help balance his day of reading scores of nonfiction journals and data sets.

In 1993, Jan was at the National Weather Service and noticed how the Internet was quickly integrating into daily life. He believed it was only logical for the weather to be on it as well and used HTML to develop a simple web page. It has since morphed to become what is now weather.gov.

“I have a communicator-slash-public service gene for sharing information,” Jan reveals of his motivation to create and share. “And there are a fair number of introverts in the weather service, so I’m the one who picks up when the media calls. I think at some point I’ve talked to every journalist in the Bay Area.”

Pronounced Jan with a hard J (as in, not Yawn), he’s a father of two kids who are both still living in the Bay Area, now with children of their own.
Over the course of his life, Jan has amassed each of the major regional area codes: 415, 510 and 650. He was born in Oakland, raised in Castro Valley and worked in Redwood City for the National Weather Service. He’s lived in Saratoga but recently relocated to Half Moon Bay.

After serving three years in the Army, including 11 months in Vietnam, Jan graduated from UC Davis in 1974 with a degree in Atmospheric Science. He’d go on to earn his master’s in 1992 from San Jose State University with a thesis titled A Climatology of San Francisco Rainfall. He’s been deciphering and communicating weather data to the Bay Area ever since.

“I learned early on that people’s weather memories are … suspect at best,” he says with a humble laugh. “I’ll hear how, ‘This is the biggest we’ve ever had,’ but if you look at the numbers, it’s actually the 20th biggest storm. This is why I quantify the data.”

To make sense of our storms, Jan developed the Bay Area Storm Index (BASI), which measures the strength of wind and rain events in the region. Each storm is rated on a scale of 10.

For instance, the atmospheric river in October 2021, when rain was persistent for days, was considered by some as the “storm of the century,” but Jan has the data to decipher between facts and hyperbole.

“The only 10 on BASI ever recorded was in December 1995 when there were 103-mile gusts on Angel Island,” he notes. “This past storm in October was a 9.7. There was a 9.8 before and now we’ve had three 9.7s. I’d call this past storm a ‘once in a decade’ storm.”

Since high school, Jan has celebrated his unique perspective for the natural world by capturing images or moments in time. On his Instagram profile, he shares what he calls his, “serious (okay obsessed)” amateur photography.
He began by shooting sports such as basketball using a Hasselblad (the same Swedish camera that the Apollo astronauts had) before upgrading to a Leica camera. He always keeps a camera nearby and while serving in the Army, he’d slip the Leica inside his munitions pouch.

Describing himself as a “snap shooter,” Jan finds an everyday moment in nature and begins tinkering with composition before he shoots. He remains an amateur (“I already have a good job. I don’t want a new job,” he reasons.) but this doesn’t mean he’s not published.

Upon their move to Half Moon Bay, Jan and Susan actively sought ways to give back to their newly-adopted community. One such method was to support the Coastside Women’s Club and the nonprofit’s annual holiday boutique. Jan donated 35 of his photographs that were bundled together in an anthology. All copies of Treasures of the Coastside by Jan Null sold out within an hour, directly funding scholarships for the local high school.

“It’s a very active community and it’s nice to be part of it,” he says. “We just finished a major remodel and apparently we didn’t get the memo that when you are older, you downsize … now we have a guest room for our grandkids.”

Last year, Jan gifted his grandson a rain gauge and as the rains kept coming down last October in that once-in-a-decade storm, to Jan’s delight, his grandson ventured out into the elements to collect his own set of weather data.

Getaway: Laid-back Livermore Valley

Words by Sheri Baer

“We call this our panoramic patio,” says Heather McGrail, as she pours the third entry on the tasting menu, a 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve. The first sips register well-rounded and smooth, as we relax into the expansive views and soft hilltop breezes. “Just northwest, you’ve got Mount Diablo, and then farther west, that’s obviously San Francisco,” Heather gestures in the distance. “When you look out to the northeast, you have the windmills and the Altamont Hills.”

As one of the owners of McGrail Vineyards and Winery, Heather’s roots run deep in Livermore Valley. Even so, it wasn’t her plan to stay here. “When I left for college, I was never coming back to this cowtown, those were my words,” she laughs. “And here I am, raising my three children here. But it’s changed so much—it’s amazing.”

Less than an hour’s drive (steering clear of commute hours) from the Peninsula, Livermore Valley is elbowing its way out of the shadow of Napa and Sonoma. Founded in 1869, this East Bay enclave is one of California’s oldest wine regions but struggles to get the attention it deserves. “We’ve really grown up as a wine country,” observes Heather. “We’re getting busier every day, and I think we’re at this beginning phase of a Livermore Valley wine renaissance.”

Photos: Courtesy of Wente Vineyards, Ron Essex Photography, Lukas Plato

The Allures of Livermore Valley

Recognized as the birthplace of both California Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon, Livermore Valley attracted pioneers in the 1840s looking for ideal conditions for growing grapes. Local rancher Robert Livermore (for whom Livermore is named) planted the first commercial vines in the region, followed by notable early winemakers C.H. Wente, James Concannon and Charles Wetmore, who founded wineries in the 1880s. Steeped in viticultural history, Livermore Valley’s present-day enticements include tasting opportunities of over 30 wine grape varietals at more than 50 wineries, quaint downtown streets with boutique shops, miles of walking/biking trails winding through vineyards, an olive oil farm and a slew of restaurant, brewery and distillery offerings.

Ground Your Stay at the Purple Orchid

Although easily doable as a day trip, an extended stay in Livermore Valley offers a relaxing backdrop to refuel (not just on wine) and unwind. In this geographic oval bowl punctuated by seven cities (Danville, San Ramon, Dublin, Pleasanton, Sunol, Livermore and parts of Castro Valley), you’ll find familiar hotel chains and a sampling of Airbnb offerings, but Livermore’s Purple Orchid Wine Country Resort & Spa is the region’s sparkling gem. Surrounded by rolling hills and vineyards, Derek and Rhiannon Eddy play host at this 9,000-square-foot log cabin-style property set amidst beautifully landscaped grounds and acres of olive trees.

The couple put down stakes here 12 years ago as they contemplated starting a family. “We liked the small-town charm of Livermore and there’s really no place we’d rather be,” Derek says. “When we got here, the downtown was just beginning to come into its own and the wineries have continued to up their games and produce some world-class wines.”

As a popular wedding venue with ten guest rooms and suites, Purple Orchid books up quickly, so planning ahead is essential. Stays include a full breakfast as well as an early evening “Gathering Hour” featuring local wines and a cheese board accompanied by Purple Orchid’s own olive oil.

Wine Tasting With a Relaxed Vibe

As Livermore Valley looks to differentiate itself as a wine region, descriptors like “approachable,” “unspoiled” and “not stuffy” consistently get touted. “We take our winemaking seriously here, but we don’t take ourselves too seriously,” explains Steven Kent Mirassou, a sixth-generation winemaker from San Jose who uprooted to Livermore Valley to launch The Steven Kent Winery with his father. Now, with four separate brands, including the winery’s flagship Lineage, Steven partners with the seventh generation, his son, Aidan, to elevate Livermore Valley’s winemaking reputation.

“We’ve got all of the conditions that lead to potentially great fruit,” remarks Steven, as he savors a Cabernet Franc. “There is something immensely joy-producing and challenging about trying to make world-class quality wine.” In three distinct settings—The Cellar, The Salon and The Patio—The Lineage Wine Collection presents “experiences” for sampling both crisp whites and bold reds. “We like to teach about wine,” Steven says. “We like people of all experience levels to come here and grow with us.”

As the oldest continuously-operated, family-owned winery in the country, Wente Vineyards offers an expansive Tasting Lounge for exploring small-lot, award-winning wines. Murietta’s Well, named for a local Gold Rush bandit, is also part of the family’s estate. Murietta’s Well wine ambassador Suzie Sylvia moved to Livermore in 1988. “This used to be Timbuktu,” she comments, as she delivers a tasting flight and charcuterie board. “It’s exciting to see all the changes.”

With a large barrel room and picnic grounds, family-owned Darcie Kent Estate Winery offers sweeping views of the surrounding hills, along with artwork created by painter and fifth-generation vintner Darcie Kent. At McGrail Vineyards’ hilltop tasting room, Heather McGrail embodies the theme of taking the “snobbiness” out of wine tasting. The winery’s grassy picnic area is a popular gathering spot with events ranging from “Music in the Vines” to “Vinyasa and Vino.” “When you come wine tasting, it should be fun,” stresses Heather.

With more than 50 wineries dotting Livermore Valley, it’s still possible to drop in for tastings, but reservations are recommended if you have a specific destination in mind. For a scenic ride through rolling hills, oak trees and vineyards, bring your bike and explore eight miles of paved trails winding through 16 of the wineries. Or make the Livermore Wine Trolley your designated driver for wine tastings paired with savory bites and local insights.

Sample Estate-Grown Olive Oil

The same Mediterranean-like climate that nurtures Livermore Valley vines also provides the perfect conditions for olive trees. Established in 1881, Olivina has been owned by the Crohare Family since 1939. “We are just stewards of the land,” imparts Charles Crohare, who teams with his father to grow, harvest, mill and bottle California extra virgin olive oil on the historic estate. With 11,000 olive trees in production and a state-of-the-art Italian olive oil mill, Olivina opens its tasting room to the public every third Sunday of the month from Noon-4:30PM. “We love sharing our olive oil and the history of the land,” Charles says, as he pours a small sample with a peppery finish. Private tours are also available by appointment.

Foodie Culture and Other Libations

“We didn’t even have a Taco Bell,” exclaims Suzie Sylvia, when we ask how Livermore has evolved since she moved here. Today, Livermore Valley is a foodie and libation haven with an eclectic mix of restaurants, breweries and distilleries. Interwoven with boutique shops, downtown Livermore reveals lively sidewalk dining options, outdoor beer gardens, artisan coffee shops and bakeries. Upscale mainstay Zephyr Grill & Bar features classic and contemporary American cuisine. We opted for potato-wrapped halibut and a delicious grilled asparagus salad finished with a drizzle of Olivina olive oil. With both outdoor patio seating and striking indoor decor, Uncle Yu’s at the Vineyard is another local favorite, blending innovative Asian cuisine and a Wine Spectator award-winning list of 600 wines. We indulged in the Chef & Sommelier’s five-course tasting menu and smiled when the Wagyu short rib medallions came paired with a McGrail Vineyards selection.

Under the shade of terracotta umbrellas, we enjoyed a midday lunch break at Garré Café, surrounded by vineyards and gardens. Range Life, an inspired neighborhood spot owned by husband and wife team Bill and Sarah Niles, attracts devout fans. Situated in an historic brick carriage house, the locally and seasonally focused eatery has earned Michelin Bib Gourmand recognition.

Other tips we picked up: Posada for contemporary Southwestern cuisine, Sauced BBQ & Spirits for slow-cooked Southern barbecue and Bar Quiote for artisanal spirits and inventive gourmet hot dogs. Stop by Sidewinder Distillery for a craft spirits offshoot of Livermore winery Occasio, or if hops are more to your taste, local spots include Pennyweight Craft Brewing, Altamont Beer Works, Shadow Puppet Brewing Company and Homegrown Hops Brewing.

Add In Some Action

Wine taste. Eat. Wine taste. Eat. With all that consumption going on, Livermore Valley offers plenty of ways to expend some energy too. You’ll find numerous golf courses here including The Course at Wente Vineyards. Cap off a round with lunch at The Grill overlooking scenic golden hills and all the action on the 18th hole. Walk, bike, hike or jog through the 847-acre Sycamore Grove Park or explore a network of multi-use trails that traverse the area. Heather McGrail tipped us to one of her favorite hikes—a steep uphill trail that leads to panoramic views of Lake Del Valle. Keep in mind, Livermore sees spikes of summer heat, but it also gets breezes sweeping in from the Bay with temperatures that dip in the evening.

Accessible and laid-back, Livermore Valley is finally building genuine buzz as a wine and dine destination. “One thing people always say is they are shocked by just how close we really are,” says Derek Eddy at the Purple Orchid. Steven Kent Mirassou echoes the sentiment. “The beauty of this place is three miles off the freeway,” he points out. “And there’s a feeling that we’re on the cusp of things—Livermore has a sense of hipness and cool that it has never had before.”

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